Tag Archives: Pink Flamingo

le baron rouge

Paris Restaurants Open on Sunday

Judging by the listings in our own Guide to Paris, at least half of Paris restaurants are closed on Sunday.

We’ve put together this list – organized by neighborhood and whether you need a reservation – to help you find a great meal on this very tricky day of rest. Our absolute favorites are highlighted with a heart.

Bon dimanche!


Walk-Ins Welcome


Kunitoraya – A favorite address for udon and rice bowls that recently moved to a narrow but beautiful space. Open all day. Reservations are not accepted, so be prepared to queue unless you go early.

Willi’s Wine Bar – Mark Williamson’s landmark wine bar turned 30 in 2010. It’s packed with suits from the Bourse at lunch, and an Anglo-heavy crowd in the evenings.

Book a Few Days in Advance

Kunitoraya 2- Slurp your udon in style at this new branch of the rue Sainte Anne classic, housed in a renovated brasserie. Menus range from 18€ at lunch to a hefty 70€ at night.

Camélia – Thierry Marx’s second restaurant in the Mandarin Oriental after his flagship Sur Mesure. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.


Walk-Ins Welcome

frenchie to go

Frenchie To Go – Open for breakfast, lunch or a mid-afternoon snack on Sundays. This Anglo-inspired eatery from the chef at Frenchie features excellent Reubens, flavorful fish and chips, sweet treats, housemade ginger beer, and one of the best beer lists we’ve seen in Paris.

Hokkaido – A basic and busy noodle bar near rue Sainte Anne, serving gyoza and ramen. Be prepared to queue for lunch and dinner.

Liza – Brunch only on Sundays. Lebanese goes chic (and a little pricey) at Liza.

Book a Few Days in Advance

Drouant – This historic restaurant, now run by Antoine Westermann, serves a poulet frites special at lunch on Sundays (roast chicken and fries), and more elegantly updated classics, including great seafood, at dinner.


Walk-Ins Welcome

le mary celeste

 Le Mary Celeste – Some of the best cocktails in the city  from the team behind Candelaria and Glass. On the food front, you can expect an eclectic menu of small plates from chef Haan Palcu-Chang, and a rotating cast of mostly wild oysters sold by the piece for 2-5€ during the season. Open for drinks and dinner.

 Café des Musées – There’s a lot to like about this bustling corner bistro: The cooking is honest, the location is easy, and it’s open every day for lunch and dinner. Last minute reservations are usually okay.

 Candelaria – With its bright, bare-bones kitchen, crowded counter, communal table, and addictive salsas — all mercifully un-Frenchified — this upper Marais spot has people are lining up for tacos and agua fresca. Go through the unmarked door next to the stove and you’ll find a serious bar. Sunday brunch means huevos rancheros and cocktails in the back bar.

Café Pinson – Fashionable health food freaks can get their fix at this (surprisingly?) popular vegan hangout. Open for brunch only.

Happy Nouilles – Hand made Chinese noodles, at very happy prices, for both lunch and dinner.

Al Taglio – It’s pizza sold by weight for lunch and dinner at this Rome-inspired spot. Bright lights, high stools and cheap wine by the carafe.

Bob’s Kitchen – Open every day but for breakfast and lunch only. Lunch at Bob’s might include a wheatgrass smoothie, a plate-sized pancake, a spicy veggie burger, or a colorful curry. All natural, all organic.

Pink Flamingo – “Pas comme les autres,” is the motto at kitschy cool Pink Flamingo Pizza. Take-out and delivery for lunch and dinner is available at all locations.

Rose Bakery – Open for lunch only, you’ll find colorful salads, Neal’s Yard cheeses, strong coffee, and a stellar carrot cake at this super-bobo British bakery.

Chez Omar – Closed for Sunday lunch but open for dinner. Go early, or be prepared to queue up with the  masses at this perennially popular address for couscous.

Glou – Pedigreed and organic ingredients rule the menu, and pretty waitresses run the loft-like, two-level, room. Last minute reservations are usually okay for either lunch or dinner.

Book a Few Days in Advance

breizh cafe

 Breizh Café – Lacy buckwheat galettes, artisanal ciders, briny oysters, and salted butter caramel crêpes, all for under 20€ a person. Open all day.

Dessance – Life is short. Eat dessert first. And second. And for every other course at this desserts-focused restaurant where the small plate sweets are nuanced and occasionally savory. Open from midday to midnight.

Grazie – Serving pizza in a low-lit space with industrial loft décor and decent cocktails. Open for lunch and dinner.

Book a Few Weeks in Advance

Les Enfants Rouges – Bistronomie from a young Japanese chef who trained under Yves Camdeborde near the Marché des Enfants Rouges. Open for lunch and dinner.

L’Ami Louis – It’s possible that this legendary address serves the most famous — and ridiculously expensive — roast chicken in the world. A roster of VIP regulars (hello, Bill Clinton) make this a difficult reservation for us plebes. Open for lunch and dinner.


Walk-Ins Welcome

 L’As du Fallafel – Cheap, messy and seemingly obligatory – regularly cited as the best falafel in Paris.

Miznon – Another pita place for the Marais – this annex of an Israeli chain has far more creative offerings than your corner kebab stand. Notable options include grilled cauliflower, grilled sweet potato, and beef bourguignon. Open all day.

Brasserie de l’Isle Saint Louis – This classic brasserie has been in business since 1953, is open for lunch and dinner, and is still run by the same family.

Maison David – Squeeze into this tiny butcher shop for lunch only (1-3pm) and watch owner Michel Kalifa in action.

Chez Marianne – This mainstay of the Jewish quarter is popular for its platters of salads, breads, and lovely terrace, though many line up here for falafel, too. Open all day.

Jaja – From the team behind Glou comes Jaja, a contemporary bistro open for lunch and dinner that features top notch organic products, a serious wine list, airy urban decor, and… hot dogs.

Book a Few Days in Advance

Benoît – Open since 1912, this picture-postcard Paris bistro is part of the Ducasse group. Open for lunch and dinner.


Walk-Ins Welcome

Terroir Parisien

 Terroir Parisien – Yannick Alleno (of Le Meurice) revives reasonably priced Parisian classics, with Ile de France ingredients, at this chic, airy bistro. Open every day for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Le Bistro des Gastronomes – A neighborhood bistrominique from chef Cédric Lefevre, who previously worked for Thierry Breton and Christian Constant. Note: the Sunday service is a buffet, not the regular menu.

Book a Few Days in Advance

Lengué – An Izakaya joint, serving small plates, Japanese beer and cocktails, in the heart of the touristville. Open for dinner only.

Anahuacalli – A well-regarded Mexican address in the 5th, serving specialties like huitlacoche quesadillas, tortilla soup, mole and tamales. Open only for lunch on Sundays.


Walk-Ins Welcome

 L’Avant Comptoir - Crêpes up front and pork (Ibaïona) in the rear. It’s standing room only at Yves Camdeborde’s recently renovated tapas and wine bar, a hit since it opened in fall of 2009. Go during the off hours or be prepared to be get to know the person next to you very, very well. Open for lunch and dinner.

 Huitrerie Régis – Régis’ fantastic oysters come from the Marenne-Oleron and are available for dégustation on the spot in the pale blue and white dining room for lunch or dinner, or to take home. Included in our list of Five Great Places for Oysters.

steak frites

Le Relais de L’Entrecôte – The choices here are steak and… really that’s it. Served with crisp fries in outrageous quantities, the only question is how you want it cooked. Reservations not accepted, so go early or be prepared to wait on the sidewalk.

Little Breizh – Hidden in plain sight on a street of tourist traps, this charming crêperie features organic ingredients, nutty galettes flecked with buckwheat, tender dessert crêpes, and sweet service. You can get out for under 20€, barring a cider bender.

Le Comptoir du Relais – Yves Camdeborde’s beloved bistro, once neo and now classic. During the week you’d have to book months in advance for a no-choice dinner, but on weekends you can just queue up for the so-called brasserie menu.

Cosi – The sandwiches at this shop — run by Juan Sanchez and Drew Harré of Fish — are made with a focaccia-like bread, right from the oven, with fresh fillings and plenty of vegetarian choices. You can eat on-site or take your sandwiches to go for lunch or dinner.

Eggs & Co. – Eggs rule the roost at this sunny spot in Saint-Germain, where brunch is not only for Sundays. Open from 10am-6pm.

La Rotonde – Currently closed through the end of March 2014 for renovations, this is a classic Montparnasse café and brasserie, serving standards like onion soup and steak tartare all day every day, along with oysters and other seafood in season. When it re-opens, it’s open all day.

Pizza Chic – Devotées love the artichoke pizza for lunch and dinner at this (very) sixth arrondissment address, which features a wood-burning oven, and contentious pricing. Open for lunch and dinner.

Book a Few Days in Advance

 Semilla – A contemporary bistro with an MOF chef in the open kitchen and a menu featuring an array of market-driven plates served in full or half portion. Space to eat at the bar and a fantastic wine list, which is what you’d expect from the team behind Fish, Cosi & La Dernière Goutte.

 Fish (La Boissonnerie) – A left-bank haven for Anglos, wine lovers, and food writers on their day off. The bar area makes Fish ideal for solo diners, too. Open for lunch and dinner.

Fogón – A popular, contemporary Spanish table. Open for lunch and dinner.

Le Chardenoux des Près – A second outpost of Cyril Lignac’s Chardenoux. Prices are trés Saint-Germain. Open every day, lunch and dinner

Allard – The sepia-toned dining room at this historic bistro remains the same, but Alain Ducasse and protégé Laëtitia Rouabah have taken over the kitchen and the accompanying carte of classic Burgundian dishes. Reviews are mixed. Open for lunch and dinner.


Walk-Ins Welcome

coutume salad photo meg zimbeck

Coutume – Part of the new wave of good cafés, Coutume serves serious coffee drinks along with light & healthy brunch or lunch fare.

Café Constant – Christian Constant is the unofficial mayor of rue St. Dominique. His casual, no-reservations café is open all day, starting at 8 in the morning.

Les Cocottes – Though the breezy service and long counter are reminiscent of an American diner, they are not slinging hash at Christian Constant’s Les Cocottes. An easy, no-reservations choice for lunch and dinner in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower.

Book a Few Days in Advance

La Ferme Saint-Simon – This long-established restaurant near the Musée d’Orsay has been recently redesigned and updated – both in the kitchen and the dining room. Open for lunch and dinner.

Les Fables de Fontaine – The specialty is seafood at this lovely rue St. Dominique address. Open for lunch and dinner.

La Fontaine de Mars – The Obamas ate here! The Obamas ate here! This perpetual favorite, a mainstay on the crowded rue Saint-Dominique, offers classic cooking with a southwestern inflection. Open every day for lunch and dinner.


Thoumieux – The Paris brasserie reinvented by Jean-François Piège. Open all day.

Pottoka – A tiny Basque joint from the duo behind Les Fables de la Fontaine.

Book a Few Weeks in Advance

 L’Atelier Saint-Germain de Joël Robuchon – The original L’Atelier, in what’s now a global empire. Known for a particular brand of relaxed fine dining, our contributors nonetheless voted it on to our list of Five Great Steak Frites in Paris. Note: Reservations are ONLY accepted for the first seatings of each service.  Otherwise, it’s first-come-first-served.

Le Jules Verne – Perched high in the Eiffel Tower, the restaurant was taken over by Ducasse, and his chef Pascal Féraud offers a menu of classics, befitting of the location (foie gras in many forms, escargots, tournedos de boeuf, Bresse chicken, savarin a l’Armagnac). One Michelin star.


 Walk-Ins Welcome

le mini palais

Le Mini Palais – Eric Fréchon of the Bristol is the consulting chef of this contemporary, chic brasserie. Book a table on the terrace when weather permits. Open every day, all day

Garnier – This posh brasserie near the Gare St. Lazare is one to remember when you’re craving oysters. Or sole, or daurade, or rougets.

Charbon Rouge – From Wagyu beef to bacon burgers, this is classy carnivory for the golden triangle set. Included in our list of Five Great Steak Frites in Paris. Continuous service throughout the day.

La Maison de l’Aubrac – This classic off the Champs-Elysées is open 24 hours a day, serving up burgers, tartare, and aged steaks that will please carnivores.

Book a Few Days in Advance

Napoleone – The latest addition from Chef Christian Etchebest (from the Cantines de la Cigaledu Troquet & du Troquet Dupleix) may not be his best, but it’s certainly better than most of what you’ll find along the Champs-Élysées. The neo-bistrot has a striking terrace, a beautiful Art Nouveau interior, a classic menu and is open late.

Les 110 de Taillevent – Taillevent has reconceived their second restaurant (formerly L’Angle du Faubourg) with a focus on wine pairings. There is a 44€ menu at lunch and dinner, but à la carte prices will put you in the 50-100€ range, before le vin.

Book a Few Weeks in Advance

lazare photo meg zimbeck

Lazare – Open all day, seven days a week but requiring advance reservations and suffering, by many accounts, from atrocious service that undermines Fréchon’s delicious Norman-inflected cooking.

Okuda – The first restaurant outside of Tokyo from chef Toru Okuda (of the Michelin-starred restaurants Okuda and Koju). Lunch for €180 and dinner for €250.

Epicure – The gastronomic table at Le Bristol hotel has been renamed, but revered chef Eric Frechon remains at the stove. The dining room has been renovated, too, offering a view onto the hotel gardens. Three Michelin stars. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

L’Atelier Etoile de Joël Robuchon – Joël Robuchon’s empire expands again with the opening of another Atelier, this time on the Champs Elysées. This one is bigger than the left bank outpost, with an actual dining room in addition to the trademark counter seating. Open for lunch and dinner.

Le Cinq – Haute cuisine in the George V hotel for breakfast, lunch or dinner.


Walk-Ins Welcome

Le Richer – An offshoot of one our absolute favorites L’Office, Le Richer was named as Le Fooding’s Best New Bistro for 2014. Stop by this former corner café at all hours of the day and night (sans reservation) for snacks, small plates, decent coffee, cocktails, or an evening meal.

Buvette – Manhattanite Jody Williams has brought her well-loved French “gastrotheque” back to the city that inspired the original rustic-chic café. The appealing drinks menu includes artisanal cider, organic beer, a tight selection of wines, and pages of cocktails and apéritifs.

l'orient d'or

L’Orient d’Or – Craving a little heat? Head to this address for chili-laden Hunanese fare. If you want their chicken Zuo Zang-tong — General Tso’s chicken — be sure to call a day in advance and let them know.

La Tute – This rustic bistro offers heart-stopping fare from the Pyrenees for lunch and dinner.

Les Coulisses – A neighborhood bistro in the heart of the 9th, open for lunch and dinner.

Rose Bakery – Open for lunch only, you’ll find colorful salads, Neal’s Yard cheeses, strong coffee, and a stellar carrot cake at this super-bobo British bakery.

Hôtel Amour – Fashion types flock to to this boutique hotel for brunch or dinner in the secluded back garden.

Chartier – Do not, we repeat, do NOT go to Chartier for the food. Do go for the atmosphere (and prices) of a bygone era.

Book a Few Days in Advance

Professore – Lasagnas, carpaccios, vegetable plates, and very large balls of mozzarella are offered at this scene-y Italian trattoria from the team behind GraziePizza Chic and L’Altro. Follow up dinner with a cocktail at Gocce, hidden library themed bar tucked inside. Open for lunch and dinner.

Le Dépanneur – The team behind the food truck Cantine California was hired by owner Olivier Marle to capitalize on all the Parisian food trends of the moment: burgers, tacos and cocktails.  The food can be disappointing, but the outdoor seating, well-crafted cocktails and extensive tequila list are notable. Open for brunch and dinner.


Walk-Ins Welcome

The Sunken Chip – Michael Greenwold of Roseval and James Whelan of L’Inconnu have opened the first dedicated fish and chips shop in Paris. Hake, pollock or catch of the day are available alongside thick chips and mushy peas. Pickled eggs, fish nuggets, chip butties (french fry sandwiches) and candies from across the chunnel make for an authentic Brit lunch or dinner.


La Taverne de Zhao – Cheap and cheerful cooking for lunch and dinner from the Shaanxi province, courtesy of Zhao, who hails from Xi’an. Get the pork-filled flatbread.

La Cantine de Quentin – You’ll be surrounded by an array of tempting products if you decide to lunch at this canal-side épicerie. Bottles to go, too. Lunch only.


El Nopal – A crowd queues at this sliver of a taqueria off the canal for Claudia and Alejandro’s tacos, burritos and quesadillas. There are only two stools in the tiny place, so plan on taking it to go. Open for late lunch or early dinner.

Krishna Bhavan – The vegetarian Tamil cooking at Krishna Bhavan is generous, aromatic, colorful, and cheap. Open every day from 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Louloucam – Brunch only on Sundays. The chef at this neighborhood bistro worked at La Tour d’Argent and Le Meurice.

Pink Flamingo – “Pas comme les autres,” is the motto at kitschy cool Pink Flamingo Pizza. Take-out and delivery available at all locations.

Bob’s Juice Bar – Bob’s is the place to detox with fresh juices, veggie sandwiches on homemade bagels, soups and salads. Open for brunch and lunch.

Saravanaa Bhavan – Before getting on the Eurostar, stop for pan-Indian vegetarian fare in this bright, packed hall, part of an international chain. Open for lunch and dinner.

Maria Luisa – A popular one for pizza near the canal, with outdoor seating. Lunch and dinner.

Au Comptoir de Brice – After success on Top Chef, and with a grant from the city of Paris (for “alimentary encouragement”), Brice Morvent opened this counter-service resto in the marché Saint Martin, serving unfussy contemporary cooking. Open for lunch only.

Voy Alimento – Not just vegetarian, but totally vegan and organic, this canal-side canteen specializes in “superfoods”. Detox here. Lunch or mid-afternoon snack available.

Book a Few Days in Advance

Le Verre Volé – A relaxed hole-in-the-wall near the Canal where you can buy a bottle from the shelf and share a cheese plate, some boudin noir, or octopus carpaccio.

Chez Casimir – This bustling annex of Chez Michel offers hearty seasonal cooking and a heavy dose of old Paris charm. Open from 10 a.m.-7 p.m. on Saturdays and Sundays with an all-you-can-eat brunch.

Book a Few Weeks in Advance

Le Conservatoire de Cédric Casanova – Round up your friends and book weeks in advance for a Sicilian “picnic” in olive oil impresario Cédric Casanova’s new épicerie. Minimum five people, eight max, 30€ per tête.


Walk-Ins Welcome

 Clamato – A seafood and shellfish-centric joint from Bertrand Grébaut of Septime. Expect small plates of pristine marinated fish, platters of oysters, silky crab fritters (accrabes) and maple syrup pie for dessert. Wines are natural and well-selected, just like at Septime. One of our favorite new restaurants of 2013. Open for lunch and dinner.


À La Renaissance – Great natural wines by the glass, fresh well-prepared food, and congenial service at this simple bistro near Bastille. Open for lunch and dinner.

Jeanne A – This eat-in epicerie and wine shop from the owners of the classic Astier offers classic comfort food, to stay or to go, at reasonable prices.

Freddie’s Deli – Kristin Frederick (of the food truck Le Camion qui Fume) has opened up a stationary restaurant serving hot American style sandwiches. Open for lunch and dinner.

Deux Fois Plus de Piment – The place for pepper-laden Chinese fare. Open for dinner.

Al Taglio – It’s pizza by the kilo for lunch and dinner at this (vaguely) Roman-style spot. Bright lights, high stools and cheap wine by the carafe.

Thank You, My Deer – This sweet coffee shop uses alternative flours like corn, rice or quinoa to make gluten-free homemade breads, waffles, cakes, and other treats for the gluten-intolerant. Open for brunch, lunch and afternoon snacks.

Sassotondo – Dinner only at this Tuscan address from Frederic Hubig of Astier and Jeanne A.

Book a Few Days in Advance

Blue Valentine – This sweetheart of a modern French bistro offers Sunday brunch and dinner along with charming service, good cocktails and pedigreed ingredients.

L’Auberge Flora – Flora herself does the cooking at this urban inn, offering a range of shareable small plates, or a heftier menu (at higher prices). Open for lunch and dinner.

Le Chardenoux – Celebrity chef Cyril Lignac took over this historic bistro in 2008. Open for lunch and dinner.

Astier – This classic, checkered tablecloth bistro is famous for its cheese tray.


Walk-Ins Welcome

Le Baron Rouge – Join the rest of the neighborhood here on Sunday afternoons for a post-market glass of wine (direct from the barrel), a plate of cheese or charcuterie or, in winter, a dozen oysters. Bottles to go, too. Closed for dinner.

Shan Goût – This tiny, highly regarded Chinese restaurant veers from the usual family style format, offering a limited-choice, three-course menu.


Rose Bakery – Open for lunch only, you’ll find colorful salads, Neal’s Yard cheeses, strong coffee, and a stellar carrot cake at this super-bobo British bakery.

Pink Flamingo – “Pas comme les autres,” is the motto at kitschy cool Pink Flamingo Pizza. Take-out and delivery available for lunch and dinner at all locations.

Clasico Argentino – This Argentinian restaurant and traiteur specializes in empanadas and helado — ice cream. Open for lunch and dinner.


Walk-Ins Welcome

Au Petit Marguery – A delightfully unmodernized table, especially good in game season, when you’ll find roast partridge, grouse, wild duck, and lièvre à la royale. Finish with the Grand Marnier soufflé. Dinner only.


Pho 14 – It’s easy to find Pho 14. Just look for the line. Open every day from 9 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Les Delices de Shandong – A well-regarded Chinese table open for lunch and dinner, run by a Qingdao native, specializing in the cuisine of the Shandong province, in eastern China.

Lao Lane Xang 2 – A much-loved address for Laotian, Vietnamese, and Thai specialties at lunch or dinner.

Likafo – A favorite for authentic Cantonese cooking. Open for lunch and dinner.

Tricotin – A bustling Chinese canteen, known especially for dim sum. Open all day, every day.

Book a Few Days in Advance


Nüba – Probably the best nightclub food in all of Paris. Japanese, Swedish and French fusion in bento box form from chef Alexandre Morin. The décor is somewhat sterile, but it barely matters when the backdrop is a waterfront view from the rooftop of Les Docks. Open for Sunday lunch.


Walk-Ins Welcome

La Cantine du Troquet – Arrive early (doors open at 7pm) to avoid a wait at this casual, no-reservations bistro run by chef Christian Etchebest. Open for dinner every day.

Le Dôme – Le Dôme, with its sparkling platters of fruits de mer, remains an address for power lunches and tourists looking to rub shoulders with Hemingway’s ghost while getting their fill of zinc and iodine.

Le Bistrot du Dôme – The smaller sibling of the grand brasserie Le Dôme, just around the corner. Open for lunch and dinner.

Book a Few Days in Advance


L’Assiette – French bistro food, expertly executed by chef David Rathgeber. Classics like cassoulet, tête de veau and escargot, created with fresh ingredients for local clients. That’s a rarity in Paris, these days. Open for lunch and dinner.


Walk-Ins Welcome

La Cantine du Troquet Dupleix – Lusty Basque fare, affordably priced. Arrive early (doors open at 7pm) to avoid a wait at this casual, no-reservations bistro run by chef Christian Etchebest which is only open for dinner.

Book a Few Days in Advance

Axuria – A contemporary gastro-bistro, with an emphasis on fish. Open every day for lunch and dinner.

Le Marcab – The room feels posh, but the prices are reasonable at Le Marcab. Open every day.


Les Trois Garçons – A solid neighborhood neo-retro bistro with a notable emphasis on seafood dishes. The large, shady terrasse facing a quiet square makes up for the lackadaisical service and makes this a local favorite for outdoor dining.

Book a Few Weeks in Advance

Ciel de Paris – Reopened with a sleek new design, a table at this resto on the 56th floor of the Tour Montparnasse affords sweeping views over Paris.


Book a Few Days in Advance

Les Tablettes – In the old La Table de Joël Robuchon location, Les Tablettes reopened with a new chef (Jean-Louis Nomicos) and a pop attitude. Open for lunch and dinner.

Book a Few Weeks in Advance

La Grande Cascade – This Michelin one-star is in a grand pavilion in the Bois de Boulogne for lunch and dinner.

Shang Palace – Haute Cantonese cooking in Paris.

LiLi – Cantonese cuisine in a luxe setting at the recently opened Hotel Peninsula Paris. Former Top Chef contestant Jean-Edern Hurstel is almost exclusively using high quality French ingredients.


Walk-Ins Welcome

L’Huitrier – Claires and Belons are on the menu at this sleek address in the 17th, included in our list of Five Great Places for Oysters.

Book a Few Days in Advance

Agapé Bis – An upmarket bistro from the team behind Agapé and Agapé substance. A new chef arrived in May of 2011.


Walk-Ins Welcome

Le Bal Café – At this café/exhibition space on a quiet impasse near Place de Clichy, a pair of former Rose Bakery cooks are giving modern British cooking a very good name (particularly for brunch) and a serious barista is serving some of the best coffee in town.


Bululu Arepera – Essentially just a take-out counter and four tables, Bululu has a vegetarian-friendly menu of handmade arepas stuffed with avocado, Venezuelan cheeses, plantains, beans or meat. Open for brunch.

Jeanne B – A cheerful clone of Jeanne A for the underserved Montmartre neighborhood – this casual eatery and take-out épicerie is open seven days a week with continuous service. Continuous service all day.

Le Coq Rico – It’s all about the bird at Le Coq Rico. Open for lunch and dinner.

Le Grand 8 – Natural wines and simple cooking rule at this low-key Montmartre bistro. Open for lunch and dinner.

Le Petit Trianon – The menu at Le Petit Trianon is typical café and brasserie fare: Croques monsieur et madame, salads, and tartines. Open 8 a.m. to 2 a.m. every day, continuously.

Pink Flamingo – “Pas comme les autres,” is the motto at kitschy cool Pink Flamingo Pizza. Take-out and delivery for lunch and dinner available at all locations.

Marcel – Another brunch spot with an Anglo accent, in this case both British (porridge, scones, an English breakfast) and American (fluffy blueberry pancakes, a BLT).

Miroir – Lunch only at this neighborhood bistro in the heart of tourist-ville.

Book a Few Days in Advance

Chamarré Montmartre – Chef Antoine Heerah draws from the flavors and ingredients of his native Mauritius — and all around the Indian ocean — and fuses them with French technique. Open for lunch and dinner.


Walk-Ins Welcome

Au Boeuf Couronné – Meat is king at Au Boeuf Couronné, a restaurant across the street from the Parc de la Villette (previous site of the Paris slaughterhouse). It’s a beautiful old brasserie and a reliable place (open every day) for steak lovers in search of a slab. Open for lunch and dinner.

Book a Few Days in Advance


Le Chapeau Melon – Olivier Camus (the former husband/co-owner of Le Baratin) runs one of the most respected, if out of the way, natural wine shops in the city. Most of the week is a four-course, no-choice menu but Sunday nights are à la carte. The selection of bottles that line the walls makes this a delight for any wine lover, and the cooking remains a steal for the price.


Book a Few Days in Advance

Chatomat – Open only on the first Sunday of the month for dinner. One of the few Modern French tables that offers a choice for every course, rather than a tasting menu.

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Pink Flamingo Aligre opening party

Pink Flamingo

“Pas comme les autres,” is the motto at kitschy cool Pink Flamingo Pizza. Take-out and delivery available at all locations.

Practical information

Address: 67 rue Bichat, 75010
Nearest transport: Jacques Bonsergent (5)
Hours: Closed Monday
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 42 02 31 70
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Italian & pizza

Additional locations

Address: 105 rue Vieille du Temple, 75003
Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 42 71 28 20

Address: 23 rue d’Aligre, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Closed Monday
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 43 43 47 07

Address: 30 rue Muller, 75018
Nearest transport: Chateau Rouge
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 42 23 14 07

Reviews of interest

Meg Zimbeck (2010) “…cheap and fun…a brilliant option when there’s a large group (or one of indeterminate size), including people who are otherwise difficult to accommodate: parents with kids, vegetarians, friends with no money…”

Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2010) “Des spécimens de galette décalés, potaches et, une fois sur deux, plutôt convaincants.”

Meg Zimbeck via Budget Travel (2009) “Kooky names and inventive combos are part of the program at the Pink…Whatever the topping, you can be assured of a thin crust made with organic flour and sel de Guérande.”

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Ribs at Floyds in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Floyd’s Bar & Grill

At first glance, Floyd’s appears to simply be a bar with craft cocktails and snacks. Keep wandering past the kitchen though and you’ll find the back half of the building is a modern Gallic update on the classic American steakhouse from the team behind Pink Flamingo. The menu features fusion items like fried rabbit & waffles or buffalo frog’s legs, plus Kansas City style ribs. Sunday brunch is an Anglo-style roast with Yorkshire pudding and veg for 18€.

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Eating & Drinking Around the Aligre Market

The Marché Aligre is a true neighborhood market — so vibrant and bustling that it’s worth even a crosstown trek. Open six days a week, the produce is affordable, the selection diverse, and the vendors highly engaging.

The outdoor stalls that fill the Place d’Aligre and rue d’Aligre are only open in the mornings from 9am-12:30pm. Come afternoon, the streets will be swept clean and you’d never know a market had been there. Fruit, veg and flower prices increase slightly on Saturdays and Sundays, as do the crowds, and the market expands to include vendors on various side streets.

Don’t miss the covered indoor market Marché Beauvau just next door on Place d’Aligre. The prices inside are slightly higher, but you’ll find a range of options including wild game, poultry, cheeses, craft beer and even horse meat. Beauvau is open both in the morning and in the afternoons from 4-7:30pm.

Pre-Market Breakfast & Coffee


Blé Sucré – One of our absolute favorite croissants in the city. Fabrice Le Bourdat makes some of the most beautiful — and acclaimed — desserts & viennoiserie. You can grab coffee to accompany your baked goods and sit at one of the handful of candy colored tables on the sidewalk outside, or on a bench in the leafy Square Trousseau across the street.

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Café Aouba – Follow the smell of roasting coffee up the rue d’Aligre and elbow your way to the counter at this standing room only café. One of the few local roasters in town, their beans tend to be very darkly roasted and smokey. They have beans, teas, and a variety of jams and honeys for sale, too.

Outdoor Market

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Pezzali Flowers – Located on the corner of Place d’Aligre, right in the center of the market, this flower stall is almost impossible to miss because of the riotous color. Bouquets are reasonably priced and tend to run in 4-10€ range, but prices rise for the weekend market.

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Dridi – Dridi often shows up late and offerings can be sparse during shifting seasons, but the products are entirely local. They usually have a particularly great range of flavorful salad greens including mustard, beet, ficoïde glaciale and l’ail d’ours.  You can find them near the corner of Place d’Aligre just in front of the flea market. Look for the chalkboard that says “Soyons locavores.”

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Bounabi – The vendors at this exotic fruit stand are wonderfully gregarious, not to mention generous with their samples. The quality is usually quite good.

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Aux 4 Saison d’Aligre – You’ll recognize this stand when you see Monsieur Flauhaut, the white haired gentleman with the moustache, hamming it up for the crowd. And there’s usually a crowd.  Look, but don’t touch, and wait your turn for their excellent produce. He’s located just in front of the covered Marché Beauvau.

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Sybille and Remy Costaz – One of the largest stalls in the market that, coincidentally, almost always has the longest line. The produce is displayed like jewels, but wait your turn to be served by the friendly family running the stall. They always have a great selection and very high quality. They are located just in front of the covered Marché Beauvau.

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Herb Vendor – The fruits and veg here are “correct” and displayed nicely, but the true draw are the overflowing bunches of herbs available for only 40 centimes. You can locate them directly in front of Le Garde Manger (17 rue d’Aligre, 75012).

Marché Beauvau (Covered Market)



Michel Brunon – Look for the long line, the sign that says “Ici on viande de cheval” or the giant gold horse’s head on the corner of this butcher shop to get your cut of fresh horse meat. A variety of non-equine meats are available as well, alongside roasted chicken rillettes, sausages, and terrines.



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Au Chapon d’Aligre – The giant set of antlers is a good clue as to what this butcher offers– wild game, and lots of it. In winter, the hooks on top of the stall are heaped with game birds. You can always count on a variety of bunnies and a perennially good selection of boutique poultry.

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Boucherie Hayée – Patrick Hayée specializes in pork products, and in particular, suckling pig. We could stand here all day to watch (and smell) the piglets turn round in the giant rotisserie.  You can order one in advance for a party, or occasionally the roasted pig is available by the piece.

Marilou – A charcuterie stand with a riotous range of pâtés and terrines (we like the pâté aux figues and terrine de foie gras aux girolles), air cured ham from Bayonne, Corsica and other corners of France, plus many other regional cured delights.

La Marée Beauvau – It’s always a good sign when you can stand right next to a poissonnerie but cannot smell the fish. The seafood is fresh here and the selection wide. They also offer a traiteur counter with an array of smoked fish, taramas, and cold seafood salads to take home.

pommierPhoto by Camille Malmquist

Pommier – Located just inside the entrance to the covered market at Place d’Aligre, this little beer shop has a solid assortment of Belgian, German, and French craft beers at very low prices.

Sur les Quais – A sweet little épicerie with a good selection of olive oils sold in bulk, jams, spices, charcuterie and some apéro-ready snacks.

Shopping Around the Market

Japanese Knife Company – 
After 16 years in London, where it was hailed as a “shrine to the knife”, JKC established its first Paris shop in May 2014. It’s already become a magnet for chefs to browse and buy knives and for restaurants to get their kitchen and table knives sharpened.

garde manger

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Le Garde Manger – Visit this lovely Alsatian épicerie at the marché Aligre for specialties like homemade foie gras, choucroute, bretzels, exquisite small-batch jams from Christine Ferber,  plus regional wines and beers. Owner Anne-Françoise Toussaint will happily bake a flammekueche to order (it takes 15 minutes) or send you home with a frozen one to bake yourself.

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La Graineterie du Marché – The oldest shop in the neighborhood has grain for humans in the front room and grains for birds in the back room. Plus, they keep a few cages of parakeets in the back room alongside garden tools and antique kitchen equipment.

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Sabah – This corner shop at the edge of the outdoor market (behind the potato vendor) has an inexpensive and wide selection of North African & Middle Eastern products (spices, cheeses, dried fruits, nuts, a variety of pulses/legumes, flatbreads) plus a giant olive bar. 30 rue d’Aligre, 75012

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Au Coeur du Marché – This small affineur can sometimes get hidden by the all the hustle and bustle of market life just outside, but duck in. The quality is high, the service is friendly (and bilingual), and they will happily sous-vide (vacuum seal) your cheese for travel. Notable offerings include a wide selection of foreign cheeses (quite rare in Paris), goat milk yogurts, and a good variety of butters.

Post-Market Sips and Snacks

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Le Baron Rouge - Join the rest of the neighborhood here on Sunday afternoons for a post-market glass of wine (direct from the barrel), an inexpensive plate of cheese or charcuterie or, in winter, a dozen oysters. Plan to use a car roof or recycling bin as a table if you stay, but carafes or giant plastic containers of wine are available to go, too.

Septime Cave – A bottle shop from the boys behind Septime. Snack options, for those lucky enough to snag a stool or a piece of counter, include pancetta di Colonnata, house-smoked duck breast, anchovies with ricotta, foie gras with smoked eel, with prices ranging from €4-14. This isn’t a restaurant, a place for large groups, or a substitute for Septime, but it is a perfect spot for a high-quality/low-key apéro. Dead cheap glasses from €3-5.

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Troll Café – Swing by to sample one of over 100 beers (mostly Belgian and bottled) at this relaxed and reasonably priced bar.


Boucherie les Provinces - A butcher shop just behind the market where you can purchase meat to take home, or even better, linger onsite to have it cooked to order and served up alongside market fresh sides. No reservations so come early on the weekends or be prepared for a lengthy wait.


Clamato – Small plates seafood is the name of the game at this no reservations joint from Bertrand Grébaut. Open only for lunch on Saturdays and Sundays.

Will – A brand new restaurant from globe trotting chef William Pradeleix who has worked in London under Hélène Darroze, in Bora Bora with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and most recently, headed up the kitchen at Manger. His precise, Asian-inflected cuisine is a draw.

Table – Writer Bruno Verjus’ restaurant features a limited menu of excellently sourced meat, fish, and produce that is roasted simply on a spit. While the prices at dinner have raised a few eyebrows, the “menu express” at lunchtime is a great value for 29€.

Caffé dei Cioppi – Almost universally adored, this tiny spot, hidden from the street, is the Italian restaurant everyone wishes were in their neighborhood. Plan ahead for this one as booking is imperative.

Pizza dei Cioppi – The much adored and hard to book Caffé dei Cioppi has branched out into pizza with pleasing results. The long, rectangular pizza with a springy foccacia base is available by the slice.

Les Déserteurs – Service is painfully slow at this new place in the old Rino space, and it’s more of a splurge at lunch for 35€, but the modern, product focused cuisine is delicious.

La Gazzetta – Revamped after Petter Nilsson’s departure with a new chef recently arrived from Rome, the lunch menu remains an excellent value at 19€.


Bistrot Paul Bert – The menu at this perennial favorite is seasonally-minded, and a carnivore’s paradise. Not for the faint of heart, or appetite.

Le 6 Paul Bert – This spot from Bertrand Auboyneau is just a few doors down from his Bistrot Paul Bert, but it’s a world apart in terms of cuisine. The emphasis on good product remains, but Le 6 has small and modern plates (shaved vegetables, raw and marinated proteins, creative use of dairy).

Retro’Bottega – This little Italian épicerie-à-manger, run by the former sommelier at Rino, has four tables — two in and two out — where you can eat surrounded by exquisite spices, olive oils, and stacks of wine.

Pink Flamingo – “Pas comme les autres,” is the motto at kitschy cool Pink Flamingo Pizza. Take-out and delivery available at all locations.

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