Tag Archives: prestige ingredients

Design by Patrick Jouin and Sanjit Manku

Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Athénée

Alain Ducasse’s flagship at the Plaza Athénée remains one of the bastions of French gastronomy. Since autumn 2014, the restaurant has reoriented its cuisine around fish, cereals and vegetables.

Practical information

Address: 25 avenue Montaigne, 75008
Nearest transport: Alma-Marceau (9)
Hours: Dinner, Monday-Friday; lunch, Thursday-Friday; closed Saturday and Sunday.
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 53 67 65 00
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Haute Cuisine
Website

Reviews of interest

François-Régis Gaudry (2014) “Vu la sincérité méticuleuse et la précision diabolique que son chef exécutif, Romain Meder, déploie dans chacune de ses assiettes, on serait plutôt tenté d’y déceler une nouvelle étape dans l’avantgarde gastronomique: celle d’une frugalité exquise, saine et vertueuse. Le Ducasse du siècle? ”

Bruno Verjus (2012) “Bouchées après bouchées, l’on traverse avec équilibre et sérénité les passerelles qu’il tend entre les ingrédients…chef Christophe Saintagne offre l’un des plus belle carte de ce printemps…Comptez environ de 250 € à 450 € par personne pour un repas exceptionnel.”

Alexander Lobrano (2010) “…while I can’t and won’t comment on whether or not it’s ‘right’ to spend so much money on a single meal, I will say that it was a spectacular evening, that the food was exquisite, and that I still believe that haute cuisine has a rightfully crucial role at the top of the French food chain.”

François Simon (2010) “Le reste du repas louvoie  entre tradition (le coq en pâte jus périgueux en remarquable pithiviers : 90€) et modernisme néo-chic pauvre (le homard avec ses pommes de terre : 90€).On sent à vrai dire, une cuisine à l’écoute de son temps…”

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Coinstot Vino

Guillaume Dupré runs this wine bar in the passage des Panoramas, serving a range of small plates for snackers, a few hot items for the hungry, and vins natures for the thirsty.

Practical information

Address: 26 passage des Panoramas, 75002
Nearest transport: Grands Boulevards (8,9)
Hours: Closed Sunday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 44 82 08 54
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Small plates & tapas
Website Facebook

Reviews of interest

Caroline Mignot (2012) “…La terrine à 7 €, le plat à 18 €, les bouteilles de vin aux alentours de 20 € et plus si affinités, c’est on ne peut plus bistrotier parisien comme tarifs.”

Alice Feiring (2011) “I ordered the wild bass on a bed of endive…perfectly prepared, the sauce on the endive so Sicilian…then the bottle came along, decanted, tasted, yummy…”

Phyllis Flick (2010) “This wine bar/cave à manger…is a welcome addition to the Paris wine scene.”

John Talbott (2010) “Go? For the wine and oysters, etc yes; for the plats, I’m not so sure…”

Emmanuel Rubin (2010) “Salade pommes de terre, harengs, sauce gravlax : brave plat de dépannage. Andouillette pochée et lentilles : les lentilles tristes comme cantine…”

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La Cantine de Quentin

You’ll be surrounded by an array of tempting products if you decide to lunch at this canal-side épicerie. Bottles to go, too.

Practical information

Address: 52 rue Bichat, 75010
Nearest transport: Jacques Bonsergent (5)
Hours: Lunch only, Tuesday-Sunday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 42 02 40 32
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Classic French

Reviews of interest

Meg Zimbeck (2010) “Come here for comforting French classics and some serious eye candy—walls that are lined with hundreds of bottles and tasty takeaway food products.”

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Table Restaurant in Paris from Bruno Verjus

Table

We stayed away from Table for quite some time, fearing that it would be terrible. With a food writer (Bruno Verjus) in the kitchen and seemingly unlimited funds for decor and product sourcing from the guy that founded L’Occitane, it seemed like the sort of place that would be long on concept, high on prices, and short on soul. In recent months, however, we’ve become devoted fans of the 3-course lunch for 25€. Prices are much higher at dinner, but the lunch is one of the best deals in town. – MZ in 2014

Practical information

Address: 3 rue de Prague, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Closed Saturday and Sunday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 43 43 12 26
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 50-100€
Style of cuisine: modern French
Website

Reviews of interest

Caroline Mignot (2014) “A la carte, les prix sont tout de suite plus élevés. Il y a les sublimes produits d’artisan comme le jambon sec de vache blonde d’Aquitaine de Polmard, la tomme des bois noirs de Mons… bref, rien que de très beaux produits pour une addition qu’il faut compter aux alentours de 60 € (entrée, plat et dessert).”

Aaron Ayscough (2013) “I salute Bruno Verjus for his justifiably high regard for his food suppliers. And Table does makes sense as a place of refuge for fine palates at those moments when time or accessibility is more an object than money…But to seduce an appreciable portion of comparatively thrifty east Parisians, Table may need some polishing.”

Philippe Toinard (2013) “Certes mais le point fort de cette carte courte (2 entrées, 2 plats et 2 desserts), c’est la recherche du produit exceptionnel. Les noms des fournisseurs ne sont pas tous affichés mais on sait qu’ils sortent des sentiers battus et du traditionnel name-dropping car Bruno Verjus a pour lui, cette connaissance pointue du patrimoine agricole.”

John Talbott (2013) “A menu that is long on good products and spare on choices.”

Emmanuel Rubin (2013) “Il y a là une cuisine travaillée comme un éloge du simple (pas de la simplicité) autour de recettes de moderne paysannerie, mélange de saisonnalité soucieuse et de produits sourcilleux. Ni épure ni esbroufe mais une radicalité gourmande à militer le cuisiner juste (portion, cuisson, liaison).”

Gilles Pudlowski (2013) “Soyons net: tout ce que propose notre Bruno national relève de l’exceptionnel. Le boeuf blonde d’Aquitaine signé Polmard, le porc noir gascon de St Géry, la fourme de Valcivière des Hautes Chaumes, le beaufort d’alpage de Mons, sans omettre les légumes et champignons d’Annie Bertin ou de Joël Thiébault tiennent lieu ici de viatique. On est là ici en pèlerinage gourmand.”

Camille Labro (2013) “Les poissons sont grillés entiers, les asperges juste blanchies, la pintade, le paleron et l’ananas rôtis à la broche. Le produit est roi, et l’assiette est aussi minimale que radicale – de belles portions, et à peine une huile infusée au laurier, quelques herbes sauvages ou un condiment acidulé pour assaisonner. Tout cela accompagné de beaux flacons de vins nature, concoctés par des petits artisans que l’homme, en bon-vivant qu’il est, fréquente depuis longtemps.”

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Le Meurice Interior

Le Meurice

This Michelin 3-star was helmed by Yannick Alleno until he moved on in 2013 after opening his locavore bistro Terroir Parisien. Alain Ducasse took the reigns in September 2013.

Practical information

Address: 228 rue de Rivoli, 75001
Nearest transport: Tuileries (1)
Hours: Closed Saturday and Sunday
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 44 58 10 55
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Website

Reviews of interest

Reviews from meals with Alain Ducasse as chef

François-Régis Gaudry (2014) “Sacrée asperge!”

David Lebovitz (2013) “I’m gonna call it and say that the first course was the best thing I ate in 2013. Out came an iron pot with a lid, which was set down between us along with two long forks and little bowls of sorrel mayonnaise. When they lifted the lid, we were presented with a simple tumble of vegetables cooked over a concave demi-circle of coarse, gray salt. Each vegetable was au nature, but each one was the most marvelously flavored vegetable I ever tasted in the last ten years.”

Emmanuel Rubin (2013) “Voilà une table de hauteur jamais hautaine, où l’on s’accorde l’art de se ruiner heureux. Surtout le meilleur Ducasse depuis longtemps!”

Alexander Lobrano (2013) “Ultimately, this was a superb and very daring meal…simple and wholesome.”

Camille Labro (2013) “Alors oui, les prix sont astronomiques, et je préfèrerais toujours une assiette bonne franquette dans un bistro où l’on peut parler fort et rigoler de bon cœur. Mais Ducasse et ses équipes savent créer des moments gastronomiques de haute volée, qui étonnent et détonnent, prouvant que l’on peut cuisiner grand sans rien dénaturer, et que le luxe réside souvent dans les goûts simples et une belle botte de navets.”

Reviews from meals with Yannick Alleno as chef

Gilles Pudlowski (2011) “Bref, voilà une maison au mieux de son style, à redécouvrir le midi pour ce menu fortiche qui exalte les saveurs du terroir parisien avec une confondante habileté.”

Patricia Wells (2010) “Almost too beautiful to eat…”

François Simon (2010) “L’assiette de Yannick Alleno était dans ce genre de magie poétique…”

Alexander Lobrano (2009) “… five days after left the table at Le Meurice, I am still savoring that exquisite spring lunch.”

Food Snob (2009) “…Everything was cooked flawlessly, ingredients were excellent, presentation appealed, but I was just not overwhelmed by deliciousness.”

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Eggplant with Brie. Photo by Aaron Ayscough.

Encore

Brand-name suppliers (Joel Thiebault, Quatrehommes, Annie Bertin, Hugo Desnoyers, Christophe Vasseur, Terroirs d’Avenir) and natural wines are the backbone of this trend-heavy, but pleasant, modern French bistro helmed by the young Japanese chef Yoshi Morie.

Practical information

Address: 43 rue Richer, 75009
Nearest transport: Cadet (7), Grands Boulevards (8, 9)
Hours: Lunch Tuesday-Friday; Dinner Monday-Friday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 72 60 97 72
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Modern French & Japanese
Website

Reviews of interest

Emmanuel Rubin (2013) “L’adresse ne manque pas de zèle mais, à s’y attarder, dans ses tics et détails, il ne serait pas interdit de commencer à se lasser d’un bon ton devenu filon.”

Philippe Toinard (2013) “Et qui fait le buzz, serions-nous tenté d’ajouter ! Réseaux sociaux et blogosphère se sont enflammés pour cette adresse ouverte pendant l’été, et ce pour une unique raison, la présence en cuisine de Yoshi Morie que certains ont connu au Petit Verdot (6e). À tous les écouter et les lire, il a un talent fou. Certainement, mais à condition de goûter sa cuisine au dîner, parce qu’au déjeuner, c’est bon mais ça ne mérite pas tout ce tintamarre. Or, on attend d’un chef que sa cuisine soit aussi séduisante au déjeuner qu’au dîner.”

Adrian Moore (2013) “had one of the best meals of the pre-rentrée: 30€ for three delicious courses: a bright, crunchy mussels and cauliflower starter flavored with a vadouvan emulsion (French/Indian spice mix), and main course of monkfish with mixed cooked and raw vegetables (broccoli, burnt aubergine), all dishes doing a perfect job of creating layers of comforting taste and washed down with well chosen wines from our charming waitress. The dessert was the best I’ve had this season: a violet and fig compote with a Timut pepper sorbet.”

Alexander Lobrano (2013) “The only things I’m likely to remember about this place in two week’s time are the soulful icon of the smooth old wooden butcher’s block incorporated into the bar, the excellent white Gaillac we drank, the exceptionally alert and friendly service…I don’t doubt that Yoshi Morie is a sincere and talented chef, but I’d want him to find his own unique culinary signature and dare some livelier music on the plate before I returned for an encore, especially at these prices.”

John Talbott (2013) “This was chow worth schlepping 30 minutes for.”

Aaron Ayscough (2013) “And a plat of monkfish, chanterelles, and sea snails was a singularly intense marriage of forest and sea, like a walk in a public park in Atlantis. Every ingredient was in magnificent form: the monkfish flesh rich but not chewy, the chanterelles hauntingly bright and peachy.”

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Cul de Poule Paris by Meg Zimbeck

Cul de Poule

Good ingredients, simple prep, cool atmosphere and great prices make Cul de Poule the butt to beat.

Practical information

Address: 53 rue des Martyrs
Nearest transport: Pigalle (2, 12)
Hours: Closed Sunday
Reservations: Book a day or two in advance
Telephone: 01 53 16 13 07
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, prestige ingredients, comfort food, vegetarian options, open Monday, outdoor dining

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2009) “Very reasonable, simple, good food with no frills…”

Barbra Austin (2009) “The menu is pedigreed, peppered with names of farmers and sources, and the preference for small and organic carries over to the wine list…”

David Lebovitz (2009) “…if you like good ingredients, definitely not sourced from the local supermarché, prepared with simplicity and care, it’s a très bonne adresse…”

Caroline Mignot(2008) “Formules déjeuner on ne peut plus efficaces et menus du soir…avec des noms comme qui diraient connus (le name dropping marche toujours aussi bien à Paris)…Pascal Beillevaire et ses bons beurres…Alain Passard et ses légumes…”

 

 

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Pierre Gagnaire by Meg Zimbeck

Pierre Gagnaire

Pierre Gagnaire is widely regarded as one of the city’s most creative culinary wizards.

Practical information

Address: 6 rue Balzac, 75008
Nearest transport: George V (1)
Hours: Closed Sunday lunch, Closed Wednesday lunch, Closed Saturday
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 58 36 12 50
Website
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, prestige ingredients, molecular gastronomy, haute cuisine, superior wine list, exceptional desserts, renowned chef, open Sunday, open Monday

Reviews of interest

François Simon (2009) “La gastronomie dans ces rares moments s’avère être belle et bonne.Mon meilleur repas de l’année…”

Food Snob (2009) “Random combinations of produce, unusual treatments of products, the introduction of science into cooking…Gagnaire utilises all such practices without prejudice.”

Barbra Austin (2009) “This is Fine Dining, capitalized and punctuated with three Michelin stars, all yours for a three-figure price tag before you even mention wine.  It is a special event, an experience…”

Sophie Brissaud (2005) “Si je devais résumer, d’après le dîner d’hier soir, cette cuisine, j’insisterais sur sa délicatesse, sa poésie et sa miraculeuse unité de style.”

Patricia Wells “There is no chef more creative than Pierre Gagnaire is…”

 

 

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Toyo

In this sleek little space, Toyomitsu Nakayama (the former personal chef to fashion designer Kenzo) plies his trade in an open kitchen.

Practical information

Address: 17 rue Jules-Chaplain, 75006
Nearest transport: Vavin (4)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 43 54 28 03
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 50-99€
Style of cuisine: Modern French, Japanese / sushi, Fusion
Special attributes: prix-fixe, prestige ingredients, standout seafood, good for solo dining

Reviews of interest

Patricia Wells (2011) “The streamlined 35 and 45 euro lunch menus offer just enough choices…He offers tiny rectangles of perfectly cooked merlan (whiting) showered with flakes of salty bottarga (dried, salted mullet or cod)   set upon a bed of giant cepe mushrooms…”

François Simon – Le Figaro (2010) “Sept séquences pour un menu se faufilant dans les saveurs les plus subtiles…L’ensemble fonctionne avec une rare précision.”

François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2010) “…dans l’épure claire de ce vestibule blanc et bois, au comptoir de préférence, pour la vue dégagée sur les manoeuvres virevoltantes d’une brigade en plein coup de feu…”
Bruno Verjus (2010) “…la qualité et la précision des grandes tables Tokyoîtes pour une cuisine d’inspiration plutôt française.”

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2010) “Une gastronomie émotionnelle, précise…Fragile comme dentelle sur kimono.”

 

 

 

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Gaya via pierre-gagnaire.com

Gaya

Pierre Gagnaire’s thoroughly modern seafood spot.

Practical information

Address: 44 rue du Bac, 75007
Nearest transport: Rue du Bac (12)
Hours: Closed Sunday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 45 44 73 73
Website
Average price for lunch: 50-99€
Average price for dinner: 50-99€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: prestige ingredients, standout seafood, renowned chef

Reviews of interest

Franck Pinay-Rabaroust (2014) “Il y a le nom de Pierre Gagnaire qui résonne un petit partout dans le monde et il y a celui de Nicolas Fontaine qui ne déborde pas trop des jolis murs du restaurant Gaya Rive Gauche. Tant mieux… il délivre une partition culinaire plaisante, riche en goût et en émotion. Moins complexe que celle réalisée dans la maison mère de la rue de Balzac, la cuisine de Gaya propose néanmoins ce même peps à la « Gagnaire » qui fait que chaque plat peut surprendre mais sans dérouter. Ici, la cuisine y est plus sécurisante, sans sortie de route possible.”

François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2010) “Le bistrot marin de Pierre Gagnaire : un genre de mini-yatch lactescent, rétro-éclairé…Le merlan à la moelle de boeuf…un ping-pong terre-mer, nettement plus limpide cette fois, arbitré par les touches végétales d’un joyeux  »jus vert » (à base de purée d’épinard et de beurre meunière) et du chou juste blanchi…”

Gilles Pudlowski (2010) “…des mets marins raffinés délivrés par une équipe efficace et complice…Le bonheur? Il peut être au bar, avec ce que Pierre Gagnaire nomme ‘la pêche modeste’. Le bortsch d’été, avec espadon, quenelle de rumsteack, pain noir, crème épaisse, l’anchois frais à la basquaise…”

François Simon (date unknown) “…des plats réussis, de la classe, de l’originalité… L’esprit Gagnaire est là, dans tout ce qu’il a d’accessible à condition d’aimer être surpris.”

John Talbott (2005) “…it was all Gagnaire with none of the old Gaya left over…our firsts were a “cocktail” glass of wasabied mango and grapefruit, then noodles, topped off with thinly sliced cod as well as an “egg mimosa,”… mains were a deconstructed tempura-ized cuttlefish and haddock and coques on a bed of mixed grains (bulgar, quinoa and an ancient variety of wheat from Provence) – both exquisite.”

 

 

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Jean-François Piège restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Jean-François Piège

Above bustling Thoumieux, his brasserie gourmande, Jean-François Piège has opened an intimate 20-seat showcase for his creative, modern French cooking. Michelin awarded 2 stars within months of his opening.

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Claude Colliot by Meg Zimbeck

Claude Colliot

This self-taught modernist chef’s signature dishes include an oyster sorbet, chicken cooked with licorice root, and a “larme” (tear) of chocolate.

Practical information

Address: 40 rue des Blancs-Manteaux, 75004
Nearest transport: Hotel de Ville (1) or Rambuteau (11)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 42 71 55 45
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 50-100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Website

Reviews of interest

Philippe Toinard (2013) “Pour le bœuf grillé ou le filet d’orphie (poisson de mer ressemblant à une anguille), Claude Colliot les présente prédécoupés accompagnés de ce qui fait la signature de sa cuisine, une fleur de capucine par-ci, des radis ronds et des carottes multicolores par-là sans oublier de la poudre d’olives noires, quelques herbes et des jus de cuisson dont il a le secret. Une idée plutôt convaincante.”

Caroline Mignot (2010) “Lotte champêtre (avec son champ de fleurs parfumées), réduction sauce soja, huile de sésame et d’autres choses et compotée de pommes. Servi à côté, le bol de légumes du moment encore croquants, navets, carottes…c’est délicieux, parfumé, gracieux.”

Caroline Mignot (2010) “Cette cuisine simple en apparence camoufle dans ses entrailles bien des subtilités…”

François Régis-Gaudry in l’Express (2010) “Sous l’apparente candeur de ces exercices de juxtaposition se profile en réalité un doigté hors pair pour les ricochets de saveurs, les puzzles de couleurs et la balance des goûts.”

Emmanuel Rubin in Le Figaro (2009) “…entre les beaux murs d’un intérieur very Marais, Colliot signe et soigne une cuisine de mouvement, technique sans être démonstrative, droit au but et au brut du produit.”

Alexander Lobrano (2009) “…the meal started, and quite well, since the service here is outstanding…Then our first courses arrived, and conversation stalled as we worked very hard to understand them…”

John Talbott (2009) “simple sounding maraichier starter (I recoil – simple market veggies from Colliot, oh no), sorry, it was incredible, simple-sounding, complexly-made, my, oh my… scallops…were among the best I’ve ever had…”

 

 

 

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L’Atelier Saint-Germain de Joël Robuchon

The original L’Atelier, in what’s now a global empire. Known for a particular brand of relaxed fine dining, our contributors nonetheless voted it on to our list of Five Great Steak Frites in Paris. Note: Reservations are ONLY accepted for the first seatings of each service. Otherwise, it’s first-come-first-served.

Practical information

Address: 5 rue Montalembert, 75007
Nearest transport: rue du Bac (12)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Reservations accepted ONLY for the 11:30 am and 6:30 pm seatings – Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 42 22 56 56
Website
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, small plates, prestige ingredients, haute cuisine, renowned chef, standout seafood, good for solo dining, open Sunday, open Monday, valet parking

Reviews of interest

Chrisoscope (2012) “Bien que la qualité de l’assiette et des produits restent excellents, j’ai été déçu par le reste lors de notre dernier déjeuner…après l’ouverture de l’Atelier de Robuchon au Drugstore Publicis sur les Champs Elysées et des départs/rotations de personnel, les équipes en salle et en cuisine m’ont semblé plus jeunes, moins appliquées et moins rigoureuses… Enfin, la clientèle est très nettement composée de touristes.”

Patricia Wells (2010) “An astonishingly delicious celebratory lunch…Best taste of the day was certainly the sea bream carpaccio, feathery petals of fish marinated in citrus juice, plenty of lime zest, perfectly seasoned with olive oil and salt.”

Food Snob (2009) “Service was very pleasant…Unfortunately, I found the food unimpressive…”

 

 

 

 

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l'Arpège by Meg Zimbeck

L’Arpège

Alain Passard spins turnips into gold at this vegecentric (but not vegetarian) three star restaurant.

An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 84 rue de Varenne, 75007
Nearest transport: Varenne (13)
Hours: Closed Sunday, Closed Saturday
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 47 05 09 06
Website
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, prestige ingredients, haute cuisine, superior wine list, exceptional desserts, renowned chef, vegetarian options, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Patricia Wells (2011) “A big disappointment, once again. We sampled the 120 euro garden luncheon, and Passard turns out to be a real Johnny one note in the potager…course after monotonous, unimaginative course turned out a little more than I could bear of carrots, beets, turnips, onions. Dish after dish I kept waiting for Passard to finish the sentence. But he never did.”

François Simon (2010) “…Passard…cultive lui-même ses légumes non loin de Paris, travaille le thème dans tous les sens, son restaurant est sans doute l’un des meilleurs observatoires sur le thème.”

Sophie Brissaud (2009) “…le poème végétal d’Alain Passard s’élève désormais avec une délicatesse infinie, une maîtrise arrivée au stade du jeu permanent.”

Ulterior Epicure (2009) “…Rarely does a chef cook vegetables well. Even scarcer is a chef who can cook vegetables well AND do something interesting with them…Passard does both, and more.”

Food Snob (2009) “…there is Passard’s panache and flair, his creative and culinary genius to contend with. This is most keenly felt via his valuable vegetables.”

 

 

 

 

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La Tête dans les Olives by Barbra Austin

La Tête dans les Olives

Cédric Casanova works with olive growers in western Sicily to produce a line of superb oils, available at this closet of a shop along with smoked and dried fish, wild oregano and other Sicilian specialties. One private table for five featuring these products is available for dinner (and sometimes lunch), but you’ll have to book far in advance if you want it to be yours. Reservations by email only at latable@latetedanslesolives.com.

Practical information

Address: 2 rue St. Marthe, 75010
Nearest transport: Goncourt (11) or Colonel Fabien (2)
Hours: Boutique closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Reservations by email only at latable@latetedanslesolives.com
Telephone: 09 51 31 33 34
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Italian
Website

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2010) “To be sure, this place isn’t really a restaurant, but rather a table d’hotes…Sicilian home cooking at its best.”

François Simon (2010) “…renversant simplicité…très agréable…”

John Talbott (2010) “…like one big antipasti festival, with first-rate Sicilian ingredients from the sea and land.”

Barbra Austin (2010) “…mushroom caps stuffed with tapenade, thinly sliced carrots rolled around a filling of mint and ricotta salata, and caramelized squash wedges sweet as candy…Delicious.”

 

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jretoile

L’Atelier Etoile de Joël Robuchon

Joël Robuchon’s empire expands again with the opening of another Atelier, this time on the Champs Elysées. This one is bigger than the left bank outpost, with an actual dining room in addition to the trademark counter seating.

Practical information

Address: 133 avenue des Champs Elysées, 75008 (in the Publicis complex)
Nearest transport: Etoile (1, 2, 6, RER A)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 47 23 75 75
Website
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, small plates, prestige ingredients, haute cuisine, superior wine list, exceptional desserts, renowned chef, standout seafood, open Sunday, open Monday, valet parking

Reviews of interest

Patricia Wells (2011) “the bright red and black space is already full of glittery Las Vegas-style drama. But the real scene is what’s on the plate and what happens to your palate with each pleasurable bite… [a] specialty not to be ignored is the penetrating bite of smooth and pungent foie gras set in a dense port jelly, topped with a soothing Parmesan cream. Mouthfilling, intense, unforgettable..”

François Simon (2010) “…on retrouvera la percussion de la Rive Gauche avec sans doute une gentille différence de clientèle…”

 

 

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sergent recruteur dining room

Le Sergent Recruteur

Michel Bras’ protégé Antonin Bonnet has taken over the former tourist trap near Notre Dame and transformed the space into a sleeker, chicer dining experience. Diners fly blind sans menu but can expect high quality local products.

Practical information

Address: 41 rue Saint-Louis-en Ile, 75004
Nearest transport: Pont Marie (7)
Hours: Dinner Tuesday-Saturday, Lunch on Friday & Saturday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 43 54 75 42
Website
Average price for lunch: 50-100€
Average price for dinner: more than 100€
Style of cuisine: modern French
Special attributes: no choice menu, vegetarian options, market based cooking

Reviews of interest

Mark Bittman (2013) “Le Sergent Recruteur is splendidly located in the heart of Île St.-Louis; it’s swank, stylish and expensive and is loved by many. It’s also full of surprises, and the service is brilliant, but I did not think that the food delivered.”

François Simon (2013) “Nous étions au bar tranquillement à picorer une feuille de jambon, un soupir de viande, un baquet de vin rubis. Il y avait là comme une félicité rare à frôler l’excellence sans y succomber, déguster sans ressortir empaqueté ; pouvoir s’arrêter de manger comme l’on souhaite, accélérer soudainement. Deviser, dévisser puis partir lorsque les épidermes sont alertes. C’est cela la gastronomie d’aujourd’hui à Paris comme dans les grandes villes : alterner le haut plaisir et le plus simple et ce, dans une même adresse.”

John Talbott (2013) “Then came one of the best product seared scallops of my life with a carrot puree and a simply lovely bouillon/sauce; razor clams atop green al dente asparagus; and a nice piece of daurade with cauliflower heart.  Again, inventive, refreshing and interesting.”

Caroline Mignot (2013) “Produits triés sur le volet, vision pertinente, cuisine qui saisit son époque au vol, un goût de trop peu pour moi.”

Nicholas Lander (2013) “There is no menu in the restaurant. Instead, the staff engagingly ask for any intolerances or dislikes, and then list one or two of the more significant courses that night….My wife, much impressed by a fairly priced wine list of sensible length that includes, in her opinion, exciting producers from Italy, Germany, Greece, and Spain, chose a 2010 St-Joseph, Chemin Faisant, La Ferme des Sept Lunes.”

Le Fooding (2012) “Les comestibles tavernomiques collent au terroir parisien : œuf de Rambouillet, sirop d’angélique, noix fraîche, crème fouettée et oxalis. Ultra-technique et chromatique galantine de lapin rex du Poitou, foie gras, neige de pistache et gelée rubis de Banyuls. Les chairs limoneuses du mulet noir fleurissent à l’acidulé petit-lait du divin beurre ; potimarron et courge spaghetti en îlot réconfortent.”

Alexander Lobrano (2012) “Going on three hours now, we decided to cut things short, too, and concluded with an excellent fresh fig tart with vanilla ice cream. The bill for this meal ran over 300 Euros, which was rather heart-breaking, since it inevitably invited comparison to all of the other places we might have gone instead for a better and more enjoyable meal. Aside from the excruciatingly slow and disorganized service, the problem with this place you see is that the chef is more interested in showing off his culinary prowess, such as it is–and he does have talent, than he is in creating a sincerely memorable evening for his clientele.”

 

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Gyoza Bar by Phyllis Flick

Gyoza Bar

A Japanese dumpling bar, from the Passage 53 team.

Practical information

Address: 56 Passage des Panoramas, 75002
Nearest transport: Grands Boulevards (8, 9)
Hours: Dinner, Monday-Saturday; closed Sunday
Reservations: not accepted
Telephone: 01 44 82 00 62
Average price for dinner: €10-19
Style of cuisine: Japanese
Special attributes: takeout available, good for solo dining, open Monday, prestige ingredients

Reviews of interest

Caroline Mignot (2014) “Le reste de la pâte est moelleuses, la farce assez goûteuse, à base de porc et de je ne sais quoi. Je la trouve peut-être un peu moins nuancée que lors de ma première fois (que je vous encourage à aller regarder, je trouve qu’ils n’ont pas trop la même allure). Ils sont cependant bien agréables à manger et à tremper dans la sauce assez acidulée et différente de ce que l’on connaît (rien à voir avec une simple sauce soja, ici c’est un mélange de différents ingrédients et de parfums d’agrume).”

Caroline Mignot (2012) “Pâte fine et ferme, garniture savoureuse, porc (fourni par le boucher Hugo Desnoyer me souffle-t-on) à la mâche parfaite, ciboule, parfum chaud-brûlant de piment (enfin léger quand même) et cette sauce aux agrumes incroyablement acidulée qui vient contrebalancer le tout.”

Chrisoscope (2012) “Si le duo du Passage 53 n’était pas derrière le Gyoza bar, ce ne serait qu’une adresse japonaise monomaniaque de plus. Rien de bouleversant ni de vraiment passionnant. Comment dit-on fashion victim en nippon?”

Phyllis Flick (2012) “The dumplings, made with ground pork loin from star butcher Hugo Desnoyer, are grilled to order in one of 4 cast-iron dumpling pans… The result is a heavenly dumpling that’s crisp on one side and steamed on the other. A bright ponzu sauce, this one made with soy, grapefruit and orange, comes on the side for dipping.  Wash it all down with a Yebisu or Kirin beer and you have luxury fast-food at its best.”

Anne-Laure Pham for L’Express (2012) “Que dire, mis à part un « oishi » (« délicieux! ») bien senti? Bon allez, si vous insistez, c’est ferme, riche en goût, épicé juste, une belle chair rosée en prime -regardez l’intérieur de la plupart des gyozas, plutôt pâlichons en comparaison.”

 

 

 

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Racines by Meg Zimbeck

Racines

Founding chef Pierre Jancou has moved on, but the roots remain. New chef Renaud Marcille is bringing a touch of elegance to the product-driven, market cooking, served, as always, with natural wine, inside the city’s oldest covered passage.

Practical information

Address: 8 passage des Panoramas, 75002
Nearest transport: Grands Boulevards (8,9)
Hours: Closed Sunday, Closed Saturday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 40 13 06 41
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, French bistro
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, prestige ingredients, open Monday

Reviews of interest

François-Régis Gaudry (2012) “Fouettée au sang neuf de Renaud Marcille, trentenaire arrivé cet été après 4 ans comme sous-chef chez Alain Senderens et quelques saisons en tant que chef de partie au Meurice. Le petit gars en a suffisamment sous le capot pour piloter du bout des doigts une assiette bistrotière dans l’esprit originel du lieu, tout en mettant des coups d’accélérateur à vous décrocher la mâchoire. Deux plats, deux sensations fortes.”

Chrisos (2011) “Je garde un bon souvenir de mon chapon, même si les légumes sont trop beurrés…Le reste n’était pas mal, mais pas marquant…Ce n’est pas désagréable, mais c’est cher pour ce que c’est.”

Food Intelligence (2011) “La patte agile de ce chef, nouveau venu, dans le monde de la cuisine “nature” apporte quelques reliefs aussi inattendus que bienvenus.”

Food Intelligence (2010) “David Lanher le nouveau propriétaire du Racines vient de s’adjoindre les services de Nicolas Gauduin en cuisine. 26 ans à peine, pour cet ancien de l’Arpège, du Laurent et du Divellec. Il pratique une cuisine de belle qualité ou les produits (réputation de cette maison de cuisine) sont travaillés en humilité et avec gourmandises.”

The Guardian (2010) “…evangelical about vins naturels.”

Thierry Richard (2010) “Pierre Jancou a cédé son affaire pour filer sous d’autres soleils, mais l’équipe est restée et tient la maison solidement arrimée à son excellente réputation…”

Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2009) “Nouvelle équipe pour cette cave à manger mais toujours une bobine très jadis et naguère, des fioles militant le vin nature, une popote brut de terroir, un accueil plus ou moins épidermique, une addition pas franchement popu et l’impassible allant du passage des Panos. On aime encore !”

David Lebovitz (2008) “…one of the best places I’ve eaten in Paris in a long time.”

 

 

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Blend burger

Blend

We had high hopes for this place. With beef sourced from renowned butcher Yves-Marie le Bourdonnec, Blend should be better than it is. The “gourmet” hamburger is mushy without any sear, and the fries rarely arrive hot or with the burger.

Practical information

Address: 44 rue d’Argout, 75002
Nearest transport: Sentier (3)
Hours: Open every day for lunch and Monday-Saturday for dinner
Reservations: Reservations not necessary
Telephone: 01 40 26 84 57
Website
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=210780527856662539540.0004b5ae81d6bdb71f56a&msa=0&ll=48.865844,2.343714&spn=0.007227,0.021136 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: American
Special attributes: Open Monday, good beer list, prestige ingredients, comfort food, exceptional desserts
Type of crowd: suits, foodies, hipsters
Interior: quirky & playful
Atmosphere: casual

Reviews of interest

  • Caroline Mignot (2012) “Pain moelleux et légèrement brioché, viande épaisse et goûteuse… Les frites, ah les frites de patate douce, une tuerie!!! Très sucrées, il faut aimer, mais à la croustillance parfaite et grassouilettes comme il faut, j’ai beaucoup aimé.”
  • Chrisoscope (2012) “Niveau qualité, c’est très bien, niveau quantité, j’en aurais bien mangé plus… Si la qualité des produits et le soucis du fait maison sont louables, je regrette deux choses : que les burgers ne soient pas plus copieux, et qu’ils ne soient pas proposés en version plus simple, sans complications inutiles.”
  • Alexander Lobrano (2012) “Even though I’d have liked this magnificent mound of meat cooked much rarer, this little baby turned out to be a beauty of a burger, and the fries were terrific, too… And hats off to Camille Malmquist again for those amazingly good hamburger buns.”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.

 

 

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La Compagnie de Bretagne by Barbra Austin

La Compagnie de Bretagne

NOW CLOSED This crêperie brings a little luxury to the genre, plus organic Bréton ingredients, a list of about 20 artisanal ciders, and Olivier Roellinger consulting. Continuous service every day.

Practical information

Address: 9 rue de l’Ecole de Médicine, 75006
Nearest transport: Odéon (4, 10)
Website
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=202475318786031781734.0004ab3de1b406428c06a&msa=0&ll=48.850837,2.341697&spn=0.007667,0.01929 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no] View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Regional: Breton / crêpes
Special attributes: prestige ingredients, comfort food, vegetarian options, continuous all-day service, open Sunday, open Monday
Type of crowd:  foodies, neighborhood locals, families
Interior: charming & traditional
Atmosphere: casual

Reviews of interest

NOW CLOSED

  • Caroline Mignot (2011) “Crêpe au caramel au beurre salé. J’irai droit au but, ce fut l’une des meilleures goûtées dans ma vie de crêpe au caramel au beurre salée addicte.”
  • Sophie Brissaud (2011) “On sent le désir de débarrasser la galette de sa simplicité plébéienne. Mais le plus bête sur l’assiette, ce sont les deux petits rouleaux de jambon, bien séparés de la crêpe. J’ai lu que c’était pour mettre en valeur la qualité du jambon. J’en doute.”
  • Barbra Austin (2011) “This was a sorry specimen, possibly pre-made, without a crisp, lacy border, and with none of the deep golden nuttiness that decent galettes have… There was some redemption in the great list of Breton ciders (and beers and juices), and the excellent, vanilla-laden rhubarb compote that filled a dessert crêpe. But in all this attention to detail — from the pedigreed products to the maritime art on the walls and the Breton translations on the menu — the crêpe itself seems to have been forgotten.”
  • John Talbott (2011) “The menu is simple; galettes, specialties with products such as lobsters and dessert crepes, plus an enormous number of cidersjust a creative creperie, albeit a very, very good one.”
  • François Simon (2011) “L’oeuf le fait bien (l’oeuf) et propose un joli orangé crémeux, le jambon joue la cigarette à coté pour mettre en valeur sa noble extraction porcine, nous épargnant les algues vertes, sous l’assiette. Lui aussi a les papiers conformes aux nouveaux chants de la terre : durables, écologiques, raisonnés. C’est cela la signature Roellinger.”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.

 

 

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Huitrerie Regis by Barbra Austin

Huitrerie Régis

Régis’ fantastic oysters come from the Marenne-Oleron and are available for dégustation on the spot in the pale blue and white dining room, or to take home. Included in our list of Five Great Places for Oysters.

Practical information

Address: 3 rue Montfaucon, 75006
Nearest transport: Mabillon (10)
Hours: Closed Monday; there’s also a lengthy annual summer closing
Reservations: Not accepted
Telephone: 01 44 41 10 07
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, prestige ingredients, standout seafood, outdoor dining, good for solo dining, open Sunday, takeaway available

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2014) “Has but one-trick, but what a trick… had a platter of slightly spicy and exceptionally good slices of sausage which taken with superb bread and butter set just the right tone.”

Patricia Wells (2011) “From the moment you approach this spotless, all white postage-stamp sized oyster bar, you know that you are in for a treat. Clean, briny, top-of-the line oysters are what you will find here…”

Alexander Lobrano (2009) “…We were happily settled in this vest pocket dining room with whitewashd walls, waiting for the amiable oyster shucker to prepare our feast, two dozen Speciales de Claire Garnier No. 3…Served with good bread and Echire butter, these plump bivalves had a sublime taste of the sea…”

Barbra Austin (2009) “…stepping off the shopping streets of the 6th into Régis feels like entering a pristine little seaside cottage with white wood, shades of blue, and a fishing net draped across the ceiling.

Dorie Greenspan (2008) “…if you’re not up for a whole plateau, have oysters and a glass of Sancerre at my favorite oyster bar, Huitrerie Régis…”

The New York Times (2007) “To specialize, Huîtrerie Régis really must sell the best oysters possible and charge whatever makes sense, assuming people will bear the cost. And they do. The place is often packed…”


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Le Cinq

Le Cinq

Haute cuisine in the George V hotel.

Practical information

Address: 31 ave George V, 75008
Nearest transport: George V (1)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 49 52 70 00
Website
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, Haute Cuisine
Special attributes: prix-fixe, prestige ingredients, haute cuisine, superior wine list, exceptional desserts, open Sunday, open Monday, valet parking

Reviews of interest

Caroline Mignot (2010) “…grand moment de gastronomie et de service en salle, une vraie complicité entre tous les acteurs de la salle…”

Julot (2009) “…One good meal is not enough for a definitive statement, but this is going in the right direction and consistently has been in the last few months.”

Alexander Lobrano (2008) “Briffard cooks like a Swiss watchmaker, with such an exultant precision that his occasional creative cautiousness is veiled by a dazzling perfection.”

Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2008) “Produits impérieux, maîtrise insatiable, sa cuisine ne souffre guère les critiques…”

 

 

 

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Passage 53 by Meg Zimbeck

Passage 53

An absolute favorite

Chef Shinishi Sato and his Japanese team make precise, poetic use of pristine French ingredients, and have recently earned a second Michelin star.

Practical information

Address: 53 passage des Panoramas, 75002
Nearest transport: Grands Boulevards (8,9)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 42 33 04 35
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 50-99€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, prestige ingredients, superior wine list

Reviews of interest

Bruno Verjus (2011) “Les mets ouatés, sans ostentation, paraissent sur table et comblent le palais de leurs saveurs éclatantes, précises en diable et virevoltantes…Un must eat absolu.”

Gilles Pudlowski (2010) Aux fourneaux, le rigoureux Sato Shinishi… compose, avec une toute jeune équipe 100% japonaise, triée sur le volet, des menus au bouche à oreille, réalisant une cuisine de création et de saison très française, mais avec une légèreté, une finesse et une ferveur toute nippones.” And again, here: “Un exemple de plat végétal, vif, léger et frais comme l’air du temps: des navets bancs, avec une fine gelé?e de concombre, un émincé? de mini concombres crus parfum?és aux oignons. Un poème, un clin d’oeil du jardin, un souffle d’air.”

Francois Simon (2010) “En salle, le service est dirigé par un grand garçon épanoui Guillaume Guedj. En cuisine, il y a là une vraie colonie de japonais dirigés par le vif-argent Shinichi Sato (ex Astrance, ex- Mugaritz) , samouraï s’amourant de la France et de ses produits. Touches elliptiques, sensées pour un repas apaisant de saveurs poétiques.”

Meg Zimbeck (2009) “Star ingredients do not themselves make a meal. In other provenance-crazed restaurants (les Fines Gueules, Racines, Cou de Poule…) they turn in a solid and respectable performance. Under the direction of P53’s chef, they shine. Ballsy combos, complimented by near-perfect technique, coax the best from each element.

Alexander Lobrano (2009) “I found the service mannered and the cooking pleasant but timid and rather self-conscious… Overall our six or seven course tasting menu lacked real passion and was way overpriced at 65 Euros. So would I go again? Probably not.”

John Talbott (2009) “…a degustation menu at lunch for 45 Euros…We had it with great pleasure.”

Caroline Mignot (2009) “Des viandes de chez Hugo Desnoyer (la pointure des bouchers), des vins naturels et un traitement simple des produits, jusque là tout va bien…”

François Simon (2009) “C’était impeccable le premier soir. Allez y.”

 

 

 

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La Bigarrade by Meg Zimbeck

Bigarrade

Chef Christophe Pélé sold and left Bigarrade in early 2012. Chef Yasuhiro Kanayama has taken over, to much acclaim.

Practical information

Address: 106 rue Nollet, 75017
Nearest transport: Brochant (13)
Hours: Dinner, Monday-Saturday; lunch, Tuesday-Friday; Closed Saturday, closed Sunday
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 42 26 01 02
Website
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a35f6216bf46121b0&ll=48.88897,2.318319&spn=0.006927,0.01929&z=16 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 50-99€
Average price for dinner: 50-99€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, prestige ingredients, haute cuisine, no-choice menu, open Monday
Type of crowd: foodies
Interior: polished & modern
Atmosphere: formal

Reviews of interest

  • Alexander Lobrano (2012) “…superb…Though compatible with Pele’s approach, Kanayama’s cooking is actually much subtler and even more quietly provocative when it comes to sensual contrasts of texture, as seen in a sublime little dish of lobster with grilled banana in lemon-verbena foam…La Bigarrade remains an urgently well-recommended…”
  • John Talbott (2012) “it’s a “forced” or “surprise” menu and the plates (with identifying announcements in French or English) roll out one after another…A strawberry/foie gras concoction, marinated fish with microtomed cauliflower, razor clams with petit pois and apricots…barbue with carrots and orange slices, veal with cabbage…Go? Goodness yes.”
  • Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2012 – new chef) “…microcompositions tellement graciles…Tout est très soigné, précis, méticuleux, sûrement cérébral et peut-être plein de sentiment, seulement voilà, on ne peut s’interdire cette impression de manger la bouche en cul-de-poule…”
  • Bruno Verjus (2011) “Ici réside l’âme de la cuisine. La précision, le ballet de la gestuelle du chef, l’intelligence des mets, des saveurs, me laissent à chaque fois sans voix et presque sans mot… Du génie à l’état pur!”
  • Meg Zimbeck (2010) “…deflating and befuddled. It was cluttered and careless, like a teenager’s MySpace page that uses seven different fonts. We were subjected, over and over again, to pairings that made absolutely no sense.”
  • Thierry Richard (2009) “Belle, étonnante, subtile et sacrément bien maîtrisée la cuisine de Christophe Pelé est un ravissement.”
  • John Talbott (2008) “…it didn’t come off for any of us as over a 5/10 meal… It is often said that Bigarrade is the “new Spring”, but we think it is not.”
  • François Simon (2008) “…franchement, c’est brillant.”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.

 

 

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Chez Michel by Meg Zimbeck

Chez Michel

This Breton bistrominique near the Gare du Nord serves a four course feast featuring dishes that are baked in a massive dining room oven.

  An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 10 rue de Belzunce, 75010
Nearest transport: Poissonière (7)
Hours: Closed Saturday and Sunday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 44 53 06 20
Average price for lunch: 50-100€
Average price for dinner: 50-100€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, Breton
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, prestige ingredients, good for game, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Aaron Ayscough (2013) “It’s in a fine groove right now, having attained an effortless sweet-spot consisting of informal service, an idiosyncratic, well-priced wine list, and a menu rendered exotic for its unswerving devotion to Bretonne country-cooking.”

Patricia Wells (2011) “…impeccable ingredients, some of the best baked-on-premises bread in town…and a blackboard menu that’s so varied, every diner should find something to satisfy…the downside: While Chez Michel used to be known for its well-priced menus, I was shocked to see the 50-euro price tag on the blackboard menu…”

Meg Zimbeck (2011) “The new oven enables Breton to collect and use the crazy delicious jus as condiment. There’s a flagrant drizzle of these roasting juices atop his starter of scrambled, truffled eggs, but their profoundly comforting flavor permeates other dishes as well.”

Bruno Verjus (2011) “Petite soupe de poisson, en mise en bouche, pour les embruns du feu frais safran. Ormeau grillé, ail, persil et racines à la texture délicate et tendre. Lotte au feu du four en croûte feuilletée. Une gourmandise d’un autre temps. L’on en vient à rêver de vagues et de grains s’abattant sur ce Paris en manque d’iode.”

Meg Zimbeck (2010) “My fourth visit on a frozen December evening was nearly perfect…A moderate eater can be perfectly happy with the standard three-course €32 menu. A gastronomic god…can splurge on rare and expensive treats and spend more than €160…”

Jerome Berger- L’Express (2009) “L’authenticité se lit sur les murs de cette maison… Côté assiette, cela donne un lièvre à la royale dont les filets sont juste rosés à la minute…”

 

 

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L'Ami Louis front by Food Snob

L’Ami Louis

It’s possible that this legendary address serves the most famous — and expensive — roast chicken in the world. A roster of VIP regulars (hello, Bill Clinton) who make this a difficult reservation for us plebes.

Practical information

Address: 32 rue Vertbois, 75003
Nearest transport: Arts et Metiers (3, 11)
Hours: Closed Monday and Tuesday
Reservations:  Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 48 87 77 48
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes: prestige ingredients, superior wine list, open Sunday

Reviews of interest

Patricia Wells (2012) “For sure, the décor at this 1930’s bistro  — which has been a worldwide icon since the 1950’s — rates as among the most dilapidated in Paris. Dingy, dark, faded, ramshackle. But, OH that roast chicken. The L’Ami Louis secret, of course, is kitchen’s oak-wood fired oven, offering a sweet, soft, and yet intense heat, making for a succulent bird that is up there with the best – if not THE best – in Paris…A place that every Paris Food Lover should experience, at least once.”

François Simon (2011) “Le poulet frites est un des meilleurs de la capitale…un foie gras très banal, servi de façon spectaculaire en deux grosses tranches  prix tout aussi déridants : 58 euros…Il y a à Paris beaucoup de bistrots épatants, mais celui-ci est singulier dans sa dimension mondaine…”

A.A. Gill – Vanity Fair (2011) “…L’Ami Louis really is special and apart. It has earned an epic accolade. It is, all things considered, entre nous, the worst restaurant in the world.”

Julot (2009) “…how is L’Ami Louis’ roast chicken? It’s pretty good…Likewise, snails, asparagus, lamb, beef chop, fruits are all of exceptional quality at l’Ami Louis. They are all prepared simply, precisely, justly…”

Food Snob (2009) “…there is something so attractive about the rustic excess and heartiness of it that it is hard to ignore…”

François Simon (2007) “L’Ami Louis appartient tout simplement à ce genre d’adresses trempées dans le métal.”

 

 

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Le Bis du Severo by John Talbott

Le Bis du Severo (Closed)

Le Bis du Severo by John Talbott
Les Bis du Severo was sold in 2011, there is still a restaurant here (Le Bis), but it is no longer affiliated with nearby Le Severo.

Practical information

Address: 16 rue des Plantes, 75014
Nearest transport: Alesia (4)
Hours: Dinner, Monday-Friday; lunch, Tuesday-Saturday; closed Sunday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 40 44 73 09
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a3886506aedd66f7e&ll=48.831504,2.324188&spn=0.006935,0.01929&z=16 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, bistro
Special attributes: prix-fixe, prestige ingredients, carnivore’s delight, open Monday
Type of crowd: foodies, neighborhood locals
Interior: charming & traditional
Atmosphere: casual

Reviews of interest

  • John Talbott (2010) “…we had the cote de boeuf for two; he likes his rare, and me blue, but somehow it came out perfectly for us both and he got the bone to chew on… Frites, which defeat most chefs here and in America, were quite good.”
  • Le Fooding (2010) “Même maison que Le Severo tout court, le Bis fait office de plan B quand le premier est complet (ce qui est souvent le cas…)… les produits sont les mêmes, apprêtés avec une égale rigueur janséniste.”

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Les Ambassadeurs

Les Ambassadeurs (currently closed)

CURRENTLY CLOSED UNTIL 2015. Pretend the financial crisis never happened, and book Les Ambassadeurs, where the young chef Christopher Hache is making a name for himself. One Michelin star.

Practical information

Address: 10 place de la Concorde, 75008
Nearest transport: Concorde (1, 8, 12)
Hours: Closed Sunday, Monday, and Saturday lunch
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 44 71 16 16
Website
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a531242d600c02008&ll=48.86631,2.321248&spn=0.006931,0.019183&z=16 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French, Haute Cuisine
Special attributes: prix-fixe, prestige ingredients, haute cuisine, superior wine list, renowned chef, valet parking
Type of crowd: suits, foodies
Interior: elegant & luxe
Atmosphere: formal

Reviews of interest

  • Gilles Pudlowski (2011) “une équipe de cuisine motivée et un service souriant sans ostentation…tout ce qui se propose là, sur un mode classique allégé, savant, renouvelé, est frappé du sceau de la qualité, du sérieux, de la rigueur et de la fraîcheur…
  • Alexander Lobrano (2010) “I liked my lunch very much, too…my starter of ormeaux sauvage (wild abalone) with mousseron mushrooms, peas and lardons was superb, and Hache, who previously trained with Senderens and Eric Frechon, among others, really showed his well-drilled technique with impeccably cooked veal sweetbreads with crushed cashews and sauteed cabbage…”
  • François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2010) “…à l’arrivée, cette déclinaison monovégétale et maniériste ne vaut pas la botte telle quelle, sans autre artifice. Preuve qu’on peut avoir beaucoup de personnel et manquer encore un peu de personnalité…Le chef pâtissier?…Il s’appelle Jérôme Chaucesse. Ce fut le vrai héros de la soirée.”
  • Pudlo (2010) “Bref, Christopher Hache est l’une des belles découvertes du Paris gourmand du moment. A 28 ans, cette tête bien faite et bien pleine compose une partition néo-classique, précise, fraîche, légère, somptueuse, épaulée par une équipe performante.”
  • François Simon “…si vous voulez savoir de quel bois se chauffe la cuisine française, cette table fait partie des expressions de la tendance.”
  • Le Figaro (2008) “La magie opère toujours pour le palace de la Concorde et la cuisine cinglante de Jean-François Piège…”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.

 

 

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