Tag Archives: prestige ingredients

Table Restaurant in Paris from Bruno Verjus | parisbymouth.com

Table

We stayed away from Table for quite some time, fearing that it would be terrible. With a food writer (Bruno Verjus) in the kitchen and seemingly unlimited funds for decor and product sourcing from the guy that founded L’Occitane, it seemed like the sort of place that would be long on concept, high on prices, and short on soul. In recent months, however, we’ve become devoted fans of the 3-course lunch for 25€. Prices are much higher at dinner, but the lunch is one of the best deals in town. – MZ in 2014

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Claude Colliot by Meg Zimbeck

Claude Colliot

This self-taught modernist chef’s signature dishes include an oyster sorbet, chicken cooked with licorice root, and a “larme” (tear) of chocolate.

Practical information

Address: 40 rue des Blancs-Manteaux, 75004
Nearest transport: Hotel de Ville (1) or Rambuteau (11)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 42 71 55 45
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 50-100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Website

Reviews of interest

Philippe Toinard (2013) “Pour le bœuf grillé ou le filet d’orphie (poisson de mer ressemblant à une anguille), Claude Colliot les présente prédécoupés accompagnés de ce qui fait la signature de sa cuisine, une fleur de capucine par-ci, des radis ronds et des carottes multicolores par-là sans oublier de la poudre d’olives noires, quelques herbes et des jus de cuisson dont il a le secret. Une idée plutôt convaincante.”

Caroline Mignot (2010) “Lotte champêtre (avec son champ de fleurs parfumées), réduction sauce soja, huile de sésame et d’autres choses et compotée de pommes. Servi à côté, le bol de légumes du moment encore croquants, navets, carottes…c’est délicieux, parfumé, gracieux.”

Caroline Mignot (2010) “Cette cuisine simple en apparence camoufle dans ses entrailles bien des subtilités…”

François Régis-Gaudry in l’Express (2010) “Sous l’apparente candeur de ces exercices de juxtaposition se profile en réalité un doigté hors pair pour les ricochets de saveurs, les puzzles de couleurs et la balance des goûts.”

Emmanuel Rubin in Le Figaro (2009) “…entre les beaux murs d’un intérieur very Marais, Colliot signe et soigne une cuisine de mouvement, technique sans être démonstrative, droit au but et au brut du produit.”

Alexander Lobrano (2009) “…the meal started, and quite well, since the service here is outstanding…Then our first courses arrived, and conversation stalled as we worked very hard to understand them…”

John Talbott (2009) “simple sounding maraichier starter (I recoil – simple market veggies from Colliot, oh no), sorry, it was incredible, simple-sounding, complexly-made, my, oh my… scallops…were among the best I’ve ever had…”

 

 

 

Blend burger

Blend

We had high hopes for this place. With beef sourced from renowned butcher Yves-Marie le Bourdonnec, Blend should be better than it is. The “gourmet” hamburger is mushy without any sear, and the fries rarely arrive hot or with the burger.

Practical information

Address: 44 rue d’Argout, 75002
Nearest transport: Sentier (3)
Hours: Open every day for lunch and Monday-Saturday for dinner
Reservations: Reservations not necessary
Telephone: 01 40 26 84 57
Website
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=210780527856662539540.0004b5ae81d6bdb71f56a&msa=0&ll=48.865844,2.343714&spn=0.007227,0.021136 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: American
Special attributes: Open Monday, good beer list, prestige ingredients, comfort food, exceptional desserts
Type of crowd: suits, foodies, hipsters
Interior: quirky & playful
Atmosphere: casual

Reviews of interest

  • Caroline Mignot (2012) “Pain moelleux et légèrement brioché, viande épaisse et goûteuse… Les frites, ah les frites de patate douce, une tuerie!!! Très sucrées, il faut aimer, mais à la croustillance parfaite et grassouilettes comme il faut, j’ai beaucoup aimé.”
  • Chrisoscope (2012) “Niveau qualité, c’est très bien, niveau quantité, j’en aurais bien mangé plus… Si la qualité des produits et le soucis du fait maison sont louables, je regrette deux choses : que les burgers ne soient pas plus copieux, et qu’ils ne soient pas proposés en version plus simple, sans complications inutiles.”
  • Alexander Lobrano (2012) “Even though I’d have liked this magnificent mound of meat cooked much rarer, this little baby turned out to be a beauty of a burger, and the fries were terrific, too… And hats off to Camille Malmquist again for those amazingly good hamburger buns.”

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La Compagnie de Bretagne by Barbra Austin

La Compagnie de Bretagne

NOW CLOSED This crêperie brings a little luxury to the genre, plus organic Bréton ingredients, a list of about 20 artisanal ciders, and Olivier Roellinger consulting. Continuous service every day.

Practical information

Address: 9 rue de l’Ecole de Médicine, 75006
Nearest transport: Odéon (4, 10)
Website
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=202475318786031781734.0004ab3de1b406428c06a&msa=0&ll=48.850837,2.341697&spn=0.007667,0.01929 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no] View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Regional: Breton / crêpes
Special attributes: prestige ingredients, comfort food, vegetarian options, continuous all-day service, open Sunday, open Monday
Type of crowd:  foodies, neighborhood locals, families
Interior: charming & traditional
Atmosphere: casual

Reviews of interest

NOW CLOSED

  • Caroline Mignot (2011) “Crêpe au caramel au beurre salé. J’irai droit au but, ce fut l’une des meilleures goûtées dans ma vie de crêpe au caramel au beurre salée addicte.”
  • Sophie Brissaud (2011) “On sent le désir de débarrasser la galette de sa simplicité plébéienne. Mais le plus bête sur l’assiette, ce sont les deux petits rouleaux de jambon, bien séparés de la crêpe. J’ai lu que c’était pour mettre en valeur la qualité du jambon. J’en doute.”
  • Barbra Austin (2011) “This was a sorry specimen, possibly pre-made, without a crisp, lacy border, and with none of the deep golden nuttiness that decent galettes have… There was some redemption in the great list of Breton ciders (and beers and juices), and the excellent, vanilla-laden rhubarb compote that filled a dessert crêpe. But in all this attention to detail — from the pedigreed products to the maritime art on the walls and the Breton translations on the menu — the crêpe itself seems to have been forgotten.”
  • John Talbott (2011) “The menu is simple; galettes, specialties with products such as lobsters and dessert crepes, plus an enormous number of cidersjust a creative creperie, albeit a very, very good one.”
  • François Simon (2011) “L’oeuf le fait bien (l’oeuf) et propose un joli orangé crémeux, le jambon joue la cigarette à coté pour mettre en valeur sa noble extraction porcine, nous épargnant les algues vertes, sous l’assiette. Lui aussi a les papiers conformes aux nouveaux chants de la terre : durables, écologiques, raisonnés. C’est cela la signature Roellinger.”

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Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.

 

 

La Bigarrade by Meg Zimbeck

Bigarrade

Chef Christophe Pélé sold and left Bigarrade in early 2012. Chef Yasuhiro Kanayama has taken over, to much acclaim.

Practical information

Address: 106 rue Nollet, 75017
Nearest transport: Brochant (13)
Hours: Dinner, Monday-Saturday; lunch, Tuesday-Friday; Closed Saturday, closed Sunday
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 42 26 01 02
Website
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a35f6216bf46121b0&ll=48.88897,2.318319&spn=0.006927,0.01929&z=16 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 50-99€
Average price for dinner: 50-99€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, prestige ingredients, haute cuisine, no-choice menu, open Monday
Type of crowd: foodies
Interior: polished & modern
Atmosphere: formal

Reviews of interest

  • Alexander Lobrano (2012) “…superb…Though compatible with Pele’s approach, Kanayama’s cooking is actually much subtler and even more quietly provocative when it comes to sensual contrasts of texture, as seen in a sublime little dish of lobster with grilled banana in lemon-verbena foam…La Bigarrade remains an urgently well-recommended…”
  • John Talbott (2012) “it’s a “forced” or “surprise” menu and the plates (with identifying announcements in French or English) roll out one after another…A strawberry/foie gras concoction, marinated fish with microtomed cauliflower, razor clams with petit pois and apricots…barbue with carrots and orange slices, veal with cabbage…Go? Goodness yes.”
  • Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2012 – new chef) “…microcompositions tellement graciles…Tout est très soigné, précis, méticuleux, sûrement cérébral et peut-être plein de sentiment, seulement voilà, on ne peut s’interdire cette impression de manger la bouche en cul-de-poule…”
  • Bruno Verjus (2011) “Ici réside l’âme de la cuisine. La précision, le ballet de la gestuelle du chef, l’intelligence des mets, des saveurs, me laissent à chaque fois sans voix et presque sans mot… Du génie à l’état pur!”
  • Meg Zimbeck (2010) “…deflating and befuddled. It was cluttered and careless, like a teenager’s MySpace page that uses seven different fonts. We were subjected, over and over again, to pairings that made absolutely no sense.”
  • Thierry Richard (2009) “Belle, étonnante, subtile et sacrément bien maîtrisée la cuisine de Christophe Pelé est un ravissement.”
  • John Talbott (2008) “…it didn’t come off for any of us as over a 5/10 meal… It is often said that Bigarrade is the “new Spring”, but we think it is not.”
  • François Simon (2008) “…franchement, c’est brillant.”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.

 

 

Le Bis du Severo by John Talbott

Le Bis du Severo (Closed)

Le Bis du Severo by John Talbott
Les Bis du Severo was sold in 2011, there is still a restaurant here (Le Bis), but it is no longer affiliated with nearby Le Severo.

Practical information

Address: 16 rue des Plantes, 75014
Nearest transport: Alesia (4)
Hours: Dinner, Monday-Friday; lunch, Tuesday-Saturday; closed Sunday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 40 44 73 09
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a3886506aedd66f7e&ll=48.831504,2.324188&spn=0.006935,0.01929&z=16 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, bistro
Special attributes: prix-fixe, prestige ingredients, carnivore’s delight, open Monday
Type of crowd: foodies, neighborhood locals
Interior: charming & traditional
Atmosphere: casual

Reviews of interest

  • John Talbott (2010) “…we had the cote de boeuf for two; he likes his rare, and me blue, but somehow it came out perfectly for us both and he got the bone to chew on… Frites, which defeat most chefs here and in America, were quite good.”
  • Le Fooding (2010) “Même maison que Le Severo tout court, le Bis fait office de plan B quand le premier est complet (ce qui est souvent le cas…)… les produits sont les mêmes, apprêtés avec une égale rigueur janséniste.”

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Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.

 

 

Les Ambassadeurs

Les Ambassadeurs (currently closed)

CURRENTLY CLOSED UNTIL 2015. Pretend the financial crisis never happened, and book Les Ambassadeurs, where the young chef Christopher Hache is making a name for himself. One Michelin star.

Practical information

Address: 10 place de la Concorde, 75008
Nearest transport: Concorde (1, 8, 12)
Hours: Closed Sunday, Monday, and Saturday lunch
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 44 71 16 16
Website
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a531242d600c02008&ll=48.86631,2.321248&spn=0.006931,0.019183&z=16 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French, Haute Cuisine
Special attributes: prix-fixe, prestige ingredients, haute cuisine, superior wine list, renowned chef, valet parking
Type of crowd: suits, foodies
Interior: elegant & luxe
Atmosphere: formal

Reviews of interest

  • Gilles Pudlowski (2011) “une équipe de cuisine motivée et un service souriant sans ostentation…tout ce qui se propose là, sur un mode classique allégé, savant, renouvelé, est frappé du sceau de la qualité, du sérieux, de la rigueur et de la fraîcheur…
  • Alexander Lobrano (2010) “I liked my lunch very much, too…my starter of ormeaux sauvage (wild abalone) with mousseron mushrooms, peas and lardons was superb, and Hache, who previously trained with Senderens and Eric Frechon, among others, really showed his well-drilled technique with impeccably cooked veal sweetbreads with crushed cashews and sauteed cabbage…”
  • François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2010) “…à l’arrivée, cette déclinaison monovégétale et maniériste ne vaut pas la botte telle quelle, sans autre artifice. Preuve qu’on peut avoir beaucoup de personnel et manquer encore un peu de personnalité…Le chef pâtissier?…Il s’appelle Jérôme Chaucesse. Ce fut le vrai héros de la soirée.”
  • Pudlo (2010) “Bref, Christopher Hache est l’une des belles découvertes du Paris gourmand du moment. A 28 ans, cette tête bien faite et bien pleine compose une partition néo-classique, précise, fraîche, légère, somptueuse, épaulée par une équipe performante.”
  • François Simon “…si vous voulez savoir de quel bois se chauffe la cuisine française, cette table fait partie des expressions de la tendance.”
  • Le Figaro (2008) “La magie opère toujours pour le palace de la Concorde et la cuisine cinglante de Jean-François Piège…”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.