Happy Plates
- Talbott-san likes the “Japanesy” cooking at Qui Plume la Lune, ranking a meal that included salmon tataki, scallops with apple sorbet, and a moelleux with avocado “right up there with Kei and Sola“, and promising to explain what “Japanesy” means in a forthcoming post. [John Talbott's Paris]
Hearsay
- Bio-bobo canteen Nanashi (née 31 rue du Paradis) has opened a second location at 57 rue Charlot, not far from the rue Debelleyme outpost of bio-bobo canteen (and Nanashi chef Kaori Endo’s former employer) Rose Bakery. Rumble! Rumble! [Gogo Paris]
Happy Plates
- After two trips to Candelaria in one week, Camille reports on the “best tacos this side of Juarez,” the excellent corn tostada, and the promise of pastor in the very near future. She managed to remember these details after a visit to the semi-hidden cocktail bar in the back, where she indulged in the “dangerously drinkable” Guêpe Verte before doing tequila body shots on the bar*. [Croque Camille] For a more detailed behind-the-scenes look at Candelaria from the fella who designed the bar and a lot of its furniture, check out Adrian Rubi-Dentzel’s post at Trail of Crumbs.
- Talbott tries out Kei and, while he finds some of Kobayashi’s dishes to be overly ethereal and over his head, he raves about the crispy-skinned sea bass with truffled salsify and the veal with baby spinach and 1/2 of a single Noirmoutier potato. He says he’ll be back (for the other tater half?) [John Talbott's Paris]
Happy Plates
- After his 139th visit, John Talbott calls Ze Kitchen Galerie “the gift that keeps on giving,” where “one enters never knowing what to expect and leaves astonished by the creative mind” behind dishes like pigeon with tamarind and mango cappucino. [John Talbott's Paris]
- Pudlo is transported to some kind of quaint colonial fantasy land by the “un-tampered with authenticity” of Q-Tea, where he discovers a “bowl of Chinese exoticism” and Cantonese rice that “passes like a letter in the mail”. [Gilles Pudlowski]
Gilles Pudlowski names his Best of the Year (everything from chefs to cheesemongers), Emmanuel Rubin finds melancholy and silence at Le Grand B, two more critics sing the praises of Le Pantruche, and Alec Lobrano samples the pleasure-giving art of dim sum at Yoom.
Trends
- As far as Paris foodies are concerned, 2011 may be the year of Asia Love. Hidden Kitchen is cooking Szechuan, Bruno Verjus is making mochi, and the following ginger joints have been reviewed in recent weeks:
La Bauhania [Et Toque!, Pudlo]
Q-TEA [Hungry for Paris]
YamT’cha [Cuit-Cuit]
Toyo [Patricia Wells]
Yen [Patricia Wells]
Sola [Simon Says]
Icho [Hungry for Paris]
Isami [Simon Says]
Bizan [Pudlo]
Lao Tseu [Pudlo]
Kunitoraya 2 [Pudlo]
Workshop Issé [Pudlo]
Happy Plates
- Alexander Lobrano has a budding crush on Le Pantruche, recalling coddled eggs and salt cod, foie gras, and feathered caps. His soufflé fell flat and the rice pudding was soggy, but he still gives the new bistro a B+. He also raves over the Shanghai style grilled dumplings at Q-TEA. [Hungry for Paris]
- Patricia Wells‘ latest review, which promises “a calming Zen moment,” may cause you to cancel your next spa day in favor of lunch at Toyo. [Patricia Wells]
The name is cute but the homestyle Chinese cooking is serious at this minuscule address, run by a chef from Shanghai. BYOB, or wash it down with tapioca-filled tea.
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A Year in the Mouth
