Tag Archives: renowned chef

Design by Patrick Jouin and Sanjit Manku

Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Athénée

Alain Ducasse’s flagship at the Plaza Athénée remains one of the bastions of French gastronomy. Since autumn 2014, the restaurant has reoriented its cuisine around fish, cereals and vegetables.

Practical information

Address: 25 avenue Montaigne, 75008
Nearest transport: Alma-Marceau (9)
Hours: Dinner, Monday-Friday; lunch, Thursday-Friday; closed Saturday and Sunday.
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 53 67 65 00
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Haute Cuisine
Website

Reviews of interest

François-Régis Gaudry (2014) “Vu la sincérité méticuleuse et la précision diabolique que son chef exécutif, Romain Meder, déploie dans chacune de ses assiettes, on serait plutôt tenté d’y déceler une nouvelle étape dans l’avantgarde gastronomique: celle d’une frugalité exquise, saine et vertueuse. Le Ducasse du siècle? ”

Bruno Verjus (2012) “Bouchées après bouchées, l’on traverse avec équilibre et sérénité les passerelles qu’il tend entre les ingrédients…chef Christophe Saintagne offre l’un des plus belle carte de ce printemps…Comptez environ de 250 € à 450 € par personne pour un repas exceptionnel.”

Alexander Lobrano (2010) “…while I can’t and won’t comment on whether or not it’s ‘right’ to spend so much money on a single meal, I will say that it was a spectacular evening, that the food was exquisite, and that I still believe that haute cuisine has a rightfully crucial role at the top of the French food chain.”

François Simon (2010) “Le reste du repas louvoie  entre tradition (le coq en pâte jus périgueux en remarquable pithiviers : 90€) et modernisme néo-chic pauvre (le homard avec ses pommes de terre : 90€).On sent à vrai dire, une cuisine à l’écoute de son temps…”

Les Tablettes

Les Tablettes

In the old La Table de Joël Robuchon location, Les Tablettes reopened with a new chef (Jean-Louis Nomicos) and a pop attitude.

Practical information

Address: 16 avenue Bugeaud, 75016
Nearest transport: Victor Hugo (2)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 56 28 16 16
Average price for lunch: 40-59€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Website

Reviews of interest

Philippe Toinard (2014) “…le menu club au déjeuner (entrée, plat, fromage, dessert, café, vin et amuse-bouches salés et sucrés), combine les deux, du choix et du talent. Subjuguant de créativité et collant parfaitement aux saisons, ce premier menu débute par un velouté de morilles légèrement émulsionné…”

Patricia Wells (2011) “A daurade tartare paired with shiso and mango seemed to have no point and was simply bland. A langoustine broth with a tiny mound of minced langoustines seemed a waste…I think the chef is not aware of what incredible competition he has these days in Paris.”

Alexander Lobrano (2011) “…sunny contemporary French dishes that manage to be sincere and homey and sophisticated at the same time…a well-dressed table with serious cooking and sturdy prices in that niche on the Paris culinary totem pole just below haute cuisine…”

Emmanuel Rubin (2011) “En attendant la virtualisation totale des appétits, du plat de l’iPad au creux de l’assiette, la cuisine trouve encore, ici, à prendre relief autour des compositions de Jean-Louis Nomicos, directement passé, lui, des charmes vieille France du Lasserre aux rectitudes d’un design contemporain, bon geek, bon genre.”

Francois-Régis Gaudry (2011) “Juste, pointilliste, délibérément grand genre…L’addition? Une divine surprise… enfin, pour les anciens clients de chez Lasserre.”

L'Abeille via shangri-la.com

L’Abeille

Housed in in the Shangri-La hotel, this addition to Paris’ haute dining scene set critics abuzz.

Practical information

Address: 10 avenue d’Iéna, 75016
Nearest transport: Iéna (9)
Hours: Dinner only, Tuesday through Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 53 67 19 90
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French, Haute Cuisine
Website

Reviews of interest

François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2011) “…chic ultrafrançais…décor très réussi… voilà le chef tout aussi vindicatif sur une poularde de Bresse légèrement fumée, sublimement moelleuse, sertie d’un caviar croquant et chahuté par le mariage amer du sarrasin et du fromage de chèvre.”

Alexander Lobrano (2011) “I ordered the foie gras, also cooked two ways…this dish was the very definition of ‘haute cuisine,’ or the highest cooking, and eating it, I vacillated between deep pleasure and a profound admiration for the chef…L’Abeille is indeed a haute-cuisine restaurant, and a very fine one which seriously enriches the gastronomic landscape of Paris at that.”

Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2011) “…la cuisine d’ici ose le vent contraire d’un dîner comme un soir de concert autour de recettes très construites, portées sur les variations, ajoutant du subtil au subtil jusqu’à déposer la plupart des mets dans l’aristocratie d’un double service.”

 

Gaya via pierre-gagnaire.com

Gaya

Pierre Gagnaire’s thoroughly modern seafood spot.

Practical information

Address: 44 rue du Bac, 75007
Nearest transport: Rue du Bac (12)
Hours: Closed Sunday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 45 44 73 73
Website
Average price for lunch: 50-99€
Average price for dinner: 50-99€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: prestige ingredients, standout seafood, renowned chef

Reviews of interest

Franck Pinay-Rabaroust (2014) “Il y a le nom de Pierre Gagnaire qui résonne un petit partout dans le monde et il y a celui de Nicolas Fontaine qui ne déborde pas trop des jolis murs du restaurant Gaya Rive Gauche. Tant mieux… il délivre une partition culinaire plaisante, riche en goût et en émotion. Moins complexe que celle réalisée dans la maison mère de la rue de Balzac, la cuisine de Gaya propose néanmoins ce même peps à la « Gagnaire » qui fait que chaque plat peut surprendre mais sans dérouter. Ici, la cuisine y est plus sécurisante, sans sortie de route possible.”

François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2010) “Le bistrot marin de Pierre Gagnaire : un genre de mini-yatch lactescent, rétro-éclairé…Le merlan à la moelle de boeuf…un ping-pong terre-mer, nettement plus limpide cette fois, arbitré par les touches végétales d’un joyeux  »jus vert » (à base de purée d’épinard et de beurre meunière) et du chou juste blanchi…”

Gilles Pudlowski (2010) “…des mets marins raffinés délivrés par une équipe efficace et complice…Le bonheur? Il peut être au bar, avec ce que Pierre Gagnaire nomme ‘la pêche modeste’. Le bortsch d’été, avec espadon, quenelle de rumsteack, pain noir, crème épaisse, l’anchois frais à la basquaise…”

François Simon (date unknown) “…des plats réussis, de la classe, de l’originalité… L’esprit Gagnaire est là, dans tout ce qu’il a d’accessible à condition d’aimer être surpris.”

John Talbott (2005) “…it was all Gagnaire with none of the old Gaya left over…our firsts were a “cocktail” glass of wasabied mango and grapefruit, then noodles, topped off with thinly sliced cod as well as an “egg mimosa,”… mains were a deconstructed tempura-ized cuttlefish and haddock and coques on a bed of mixed grains (bulgar, quinoa and an ancient variety of wheat from Provence) – both exquisite.”

 

 

Claude Colliot by Meg Zimbeck

Claude Colliot

This self-taught modernist chef’s signature dishes include an oyster sorbet, chicken cooked with licorice root, and a “larme” (tear) of chocolate.

Practical information

Address: 40 rue des Blancs-Manteaux, 75004
Nearest transport: Hotel de Ville (1) or Rambuteau (11)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 42 71 55 45
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 50-100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Website

Reviews of interest

Philippe Toinard (2013) “Pour le bœuf grillé ou le filet d’orphie (poisson de mer ressemblant à une anguille), Claude Colliot les présente prédécoupés accompagnés de ce qui fait la signature de sa cuisine, une fleur de capucine par-ci, des radis ronds et des carottes multicolores par-là sans oublier de la poudre d’olives noires, quelques herbes et des jus de cuisson dont il a le secret. Une idée plutôt convaincante.”

Caroline Mignot (2010) “Lotte champêtre (avec son champ de fleurs parfumées), réduction sauce soja, huile de sésame et d’autres choses et compotée de pommes. Servi à côté, le bol de légumes du moment encore croquants, navets, carottes…c’est délicieux, parfumé, gracieux.”

Caroline Mignot (2010) “Cette cuisine simple en apparence camoufle dans ses entrailles bien des subtilités…”

François Régis-Gaudry in l’Express (2010) “Sous l’apparente candeur de ces exercices de juxtaposition se profile en réalité un doigté hors pair pour les ricochets de saveurs, les puzzles de couleurs et la balance des goûts.”

Emmanuel Rubin in Le Figaro (2009) “…entre les beaux murs d’un intérieur very Marais, Colliot signe et soigne une cuisine de mouvement, technique sans être démonstrative, droit au but et au brut du produit.”

Alexander Lobrano (2009) “…the meal started, and quite well, since the service here is outstanding…Then our first courses arrived, and conversation stalled as we worked very hard to understand them…”

John Talbott (2009) “simple sounding maraichier starter (I recoil – simple market veggies from Colliot, oh no), sorry, it was incredible, simple-sounding, complexly-made, my, oh my… scallops…were among the best I’ve ever had…”

 

 

 

cafeconstantviacafeconstant

Café Constant

Christian Constant is the unofficial mayor of rue St. Dominique. His casual, no-reservations café is open all day, starting at 8 in the morning.

Practical information

Address: 139 rue St. Dominique, 75007
Nearest transport: Ècole Militaire (8) or Pont de l’Alma (RER C)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 47 53 73 34
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes: market-based cooking, comfort food, renowned chef, continuous all-day service, open Sunday

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2013) “Our mains came off as the sort of formatted high-volumn cooking the French might refer to as “correcte,” or honest, while exhibiting no perceptible creative flair. Ditto the creme caramel we shared, right down to its squirt bottle blazes of caramel sauce. And perhaps even more gravely, despite the well-meaning and conscientious service, this restaurant had little charm.”

Le Figaro (2011) “Même s’il n’est plus derrière les fourneaux, le chef sait choisir ses lieu­tenants…En l’occurrence, un répertoire tra­ditionnel de superbe exécution où l’effiloché de crabe et pommes rattes discute le bout de gras avec la caille farcie au… foie gras. Le tout à prix d’ami.”

Le Figaro (2009) “…des plats qui sonnent juste comme les desserts d’antan, furieusement bons (riz au lait, île flottante, crème caramel).”

Caroline Mignot (2009) “Il faut dire que la cuisine de Christian Constant version bistro, c’est de l’ultra efficace, des plats serrés, denses, avec ces brins d’herbe qui courent de partout…”

Figaroscope(2008) “…on s’y rue (sans réservation) pour l’ardoise du jour qui, moyennant 33 €, vous offrira tartare de saumon, saint-jacques et huîtres, tête de veau croustillante et sublime tarte au chocolat…”

 

 

Les Cocottes by Barbra Austin

Les Cocottes

Though the breezy service and long counter are reminiscent of an American diner, they are not slinging hash at Christian Constant’s Les Cocottes. An easy, no-reservations choice in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower.

Practical information

Address: 135 rue St. Dominique, 75007
Nearest transport: École Militaire (8)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: no phone
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes: market-based cooking, comfort food, renowned chef, vegetarian options, good for solo dining, communal table, open Monday

Reviews of interest

David Lebovitz (2010) “…the hearty food served in Staub casseroles is worth the wait.”

Barbra Austin via Girls’ Guide to Paris (2010) “Constant’s impeccable kitchen at Les Cocottes, in the hands of Philippe Cadeau, turns out thoughtful, unpretentious food in short order.”

Le Figaro (2010) “Savoureuses pommes de terre caramélisées, farcies au pied de porc, fricassée de volaille aux olives et citron confit, jeunes légumes du moment cuisinés en cocotte… Ultrafrais, ultrabon.”

David Lebovitz (2009) “Les Cocottes sits on a pretty prestigious piece of land, in the seventh arrondissement, not known for good-value restaurants…But Les Cocottes is a good value, and what makes it even better, the food is worth every centime.”

John Talbott (2007) “I started with a cold ptipois soup with strip of spicy salty chorizo and crème fraiche, then going on to the pigeon with big peas and delicious greens and scallions, finishing with a waffle with Chantilly and salty caramel. The meal was just as advertised, simple, honest and made from good products. It ain’t starred cooking nor is it meant to be…”

 

 

l_atelier-de-joel-robuchonviafoodsnob

L’Atelier Saint-Germain de Joël Robuchon

The original L’Atelier, in what’s now a global empire. Known for a particular brand of relaxed fine dining, our contributors nonetheless voted it on to our list of Five Great Steak Frites in Paris. Note: Reservations are ONLY accepted for the first seatings of each service. Otherwise, it’s first-come-first-served.

Practical information

Address: 5 rue Montalembert, 75007
Nearest transport: rue du Bac (12)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Reservations accepted ONLY for the 11:30 am and 6:30 pm seatings – Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 42 22 56 56
Website
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, small plates, prestige ingredients, haute cuisine, renowned chef, standout seafood, good for solo dining, open Sunday, open Monday, valet parking

Reviews of interest

Chrisoscope (2012) “Bien que la qualité de l’assiette et des produits restent excellents, j’ai été déçu par le reste lors de notre dernier déjeuner…après l’ouverture de l’Atelier de Robuchon au Drugstore Publicis sur les Champs Elysées et des départs/rotations de personnel, les équipes en salle et en cuisine m’ont semblé plus jeunes, moins appliquées et moins rigoureuses… Enfin, la clientèle est très nettement composée de touristes.”

Patricia Wells (2010) “An astonishingly delicious celebratory lunch…Best taste of the day was certainly the sea bream carpaccio, feathery petals of fish marinated in citrus juice, plenty of lime zest, perfectly seasoned with olive oil and salt.”

Food Snob (2009) “Service was very pleasant…Unfortunately, I found the food unimpressive…”

 

 

 

 

Le Jules Verne via lejulesverne-paris.fr

Le Jules Verne

Perched high in the Eiffel Tower, the restaurant was taken over by Ducasse, and his chef Pascal Féraud offers a menu of classics, befitting of the location (foie gras in many forms, escargots, tournedos de boeuf, Bresse chicken, savarin a l’Armagnac). One Michelin star.

Practical information

Address: The Eiffel Tower, 75007
Nearest transport: Bir Hakeim (6) or Trocadero (6, 9)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 45 55 61 44
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, haute cuisine
Website

Reviews of interest

Ruth Reichl (2014) “It was, from start to finish, a miserable experience… I have never had such bad service in an expensive restaurant… food that reminded me of nothing so much as first class airline food.”

Caroline Mignot (2011) “..la carte nous ramène bien dans l’hexagone, les étendards de la cuisine françaises sont là, langoustine, ris de veau, volaille de Bresse, profiteroles, savarin…la magie du lieu participe autant, si ce n’est plus, de celle de la cuisine…”

David Lebovitz (2008) “Once they hit their stride, and hopefully they will, I hope they combine the well-prepared food with perfectly-polished service, worthy of such a dramatic setting.”

François Simon (2007) “C’est assez impressionnant de dîner ainsi au dessus d’une des plus belles cités de la terre. Les desserts, par chance, ne jouent pas aux Einstein (savarin à l’armagnac, soufflé au citron vert). Service véloce avec cette niaque propre aux premiers jours. Paris compte aujourd’hui un nouveau (bon) restaurant.”

 

 

lebristolviatelepathicgeorge'sflickr(georgeross)

Epicure (formerly Le Bristol)

The gastronomic table at Le Bristol hotel has been renamed, but revered chef Eric Frechon remains at the stove. The dining room has been renovated, too, offering a view onto the hotel gardens. Three Michelin stars.

Practical information

Address: 112 rue Faubourg St. Honoré, 75008
Nearest transport: Miromesnil (9, 13)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 53 43 43 40
Website
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, haute cuisine, superior wine list, exceptional desserts, renowned chef, outdoor dining, open Sunday, open Monday, valet parking

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2010) “…it was a challenge to remain focused on the conversation when I was experiencing so much private pleasure from what we ate….veal sweetbreads cooked in a tobacco leaf and served with a puree of Jerusalem artichokes with a coffee and reglisse jus. Nothing I’ve eaten all year provided more solid evidence of the absolute genius of French cooking.”

Alexander Lobrano (2008) “I’ve been following talented chef Eric Frechon’s cooking ever since he first went out on his own…Everything about this meal was superb–setting, service and food.

François Simon “Sa cuisine oscille entre répertoire classique où il excelle (superbe lièvre à la royale, un chouia trop salé, mais explosant de bonté dans sa nuit de noir velours) et l’invention dans laquelle il se croit convoqué.”

 

 

 

jretoile

L’Atelier Etoile de Joël Robuchon

Joël Robuchon’s empire expands again with the opening of another Atelier, this time on the Champs Elysées. This one is bigger than the left bank outpost, with an actual dining room in addition to the trademark counter seating.

Practical information

Address: 133 avenue des Champs Elysées, 75008 (in the Publicis complex)
Nearest transport: Etoile (1, 2, 6, RER A)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 47 23 75 75
Website
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, small plates, prestige ingredients, haute cuisine, superior wine list, exceptional desserts, renowned chef, standout seafood, open Sunday, open Monday, valet parking

Reviews of interest

Patricia Wells (2011) “the bright red and black space is already full of glittery Las Vegas-style drama. But the real scene is what’s on the plate and what happens to your palate with each pleasurable bite… [a] specialty not to be ignored is the penetrating bite of smooth and pungent foie gras set in a dense port jelly, topped with a soothing Parmesan cream. Mouthfilling, intense, unforgettable..”

François Simon (2010) “…on retrouvera la percussion de la Rive Gauche avec sans doute une gentille différence de clientèle…”

 

 

latabledejoelrobuchonviawolfgangjung'sflickr

Our Guide to Paris: La Table de Joël Robuchon (now closed)

La Table de Joël Robuchon is now closed. Look for Robuchon at his other Paris locations, L’Atelier Etoile de Joël Robuchon, and L’Atelier Saint-Germain de Joël Robuchon.

Practical information

Address: 16 ave Bugeaud, 75016
Nearest transport: Victor Hugo (2)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 56 28 16 16
Website
Map

Average price for lunch: More than €100
Average price for dinner: More than €100
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: renowned chef, open Sunday, open Monday, valet parking
Type of crowd: suits, foodies, tourists
Interior: elegant & luxe
Atmosphere: formal

Les Ambassadeurs

Les Ambassadeurs (currently closed)

CURRENTLY CLOSED UNTIL 2015. Pretend the financial crisis never happened, and book Les Ambassadeurs, where the young chef Christopher Hache is making a name for himself. One Michelin star.

Practical information

Address: 10 place de la Concorde, 75008
Nearest transport: Concorde (1, 8, 12)
Hours: Closed Sunday, Monday, and Saturday lunch
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 44 71 16 16
Website
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a531242d600c02008&ll=48.86631,2.321248&spn=0.006931,0.019183&z=16 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French, Haute Cuisine
Special attributes: prix-fixe, prestige ingredients, haute cuisine, superior wine list, renowned chef, valet parking
Type of crowd: suits, foodies
Interior: elegant & luxe
Atmosphere: formal

Reviews of interest

  • Gilles Pudlowski (2011) “une équipe de cuisine motivée et un service souriant sans ostentation…tout ce qui se propose là, sur un mode classique allégé, savant, renouvelé, est frappé du sceau de la qualité, du sérieux, de la rigueur et de la fraîcheur…
  • Alexander Lobrano (2010) “I liked my lunch very much, too…my starter of ormeaux sauvage (wild abalone) with mousseron mushrooms, peas and lardons was superb, and Hache, who previously trained with Senderens and Eric Frechon, among others, really showed his well-drilled technique with impeccably cooked veal sweetbreads with crushed cashews and sauteed cabbage…”
  • François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2010) “…à l’arrivée, cette déclinaison monovégétale et maniériste ne vaut pas la botte telle quelle, sans autre artifice. Preuve qu’on peut avoir beaucoup de personnel et manquer encore un peu de personnalité…Le chef pâtissier?…Il s’appelle Jérôme Chaucesse. Ce fut le vrai héros de la soirée.”
  • Pudlo (2010) “Bref, Christopher Hache est l’une des belles découvertes du Paris gourmand du moment. A 28 ans, cette tête bien faite et bien pleine compose une partition néo-classique, précise, fraîche, légère, somptueuse, épaulée par une équipe performante.”
  • François Simon “…si vous voulez savoir de quel bois se chauffe la cuisine française, cette table fait partie des expressions de la tendance.”
  • Le Figaro (2008) “La magie opère toujours pour le palace de la Concorde et la cuisine cinglante de Jean-François Piège…”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.