Tag Archives: renowned chef

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Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Athénée

Alain Ducasse’s flagship at the Plaza Athénée remains one of the bastions of French gastronomy. Since autumn 2014, the restaurant has reoriented its cuisine around fish, cereals and vegetables.

Practical information

Address: 25 avenue Montaigne, 75008
Nearest transport: Alma-Marceau (9)
Hours: Dinner, Monday-Friday; lunch, Thursday-Friday; closed Saturday and Sunday.
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 53 67 65 00
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Haute Cuisine
Website

Reviews of interest

François-Régis Gaudry (2014) “Vu la sincérité méticuleuse et la précision diabolique que son chef exécutif, Romain Meder, déploie dans chacune de ses assiettes, on serait plutôt tenté d’y déceler une nouvelle étape dans l’avantgarde gastronomique: celle d’une frugalité exquise, saine et vertueuse. Le Ducasse du siècle? ”

Bruno Verjus (2012) “Bouchées après bouchées, l’on traverse avec équilibre et sérénité les passerelles qu’il tend entre les ingrédients…chef Christophe Saintagne offre l’un des plus belle carte de ce printemps…Comptez environ de 250 € à 450 € par personne pour un repas exceptionnel.”

Alexander Lobrano (2010) “…while I can’t and won’t comment on whether or not it’s ‘right’ to spend so much money on a single meal, I will say that it was a spectacular evening, that the food was exquisite, and that I still believe that haute cuisine has a rightfully crucial role at the top of the French food chain.”

François Simon (2010) “Le reste du repas louvoie  entre tradition (le coq en pâte jus périgueux en remarquable pithiviers : 90€) et modernisme néo-chic pauvre (le homard avec ses pommes de terre : 90€).On sent à vrai dire, une cuisine à l’écoute de son temps…”

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Les Tablettes

Les Tablettes

In the old La Table de Joël Robuchon location, Les Tablettes reopened with a new chef (Jean-Louis Nomicos) and a pop attitude.

Practical information

Address: 16 avenue Bugeaud, 75016
Nearest transport: Victor Hugo (2)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 56 28 16 16
Average price for lunch: 40-59€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Website

Reviews of interest

Philippe Toinard (2014) “…le menu club au déjeuner (entrée, plat, fromage, dessert, café, vin et amuse-bouches salés et sucrés), combine les deux, du choix et du talent. Subjuguant de créativité et collant parfaitement aux saisons, ce premier menu débute par un velouté de morilles légèrement émulsionné…”

Patricia Wells (2011) “A daurade tartare paired with shiso and mango seemed to have no point and was simply bland. A langoustine broth with a tiny mound of minced langoustines seemed a waste…I think the chef is not aware of what incredible competition he has these days in Paris.”

Alexander Lobrano (2011) “…sunny contemporary French dishes that manage to be sincere and homey and sophisticated at the same time…a well-dressed table with serious cooking and sturdy prices in that niche on the Paris culinary totem pole just below haute cuisine…”

Emmanuel Rubin (2011) “En attendant la virtualisation totale des appétits, du plat de l’iPad au creux de l’assiette, la cuisine trouve encore, ici, à prendre relief autour des compositions de Jean-Louis Nomicos, directement passé, lui, des charmes vieille France du Lasserre aux rectitudes d’un design contemporain, bon geek, bon genre.”

Francois-Régis Gaudry (2011) “Juste, pointilliste, délibérément grand genre…L’addition? Une divine surprise… enfin, pour les anciens clients de chez Lasserre.”

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L'Abeille via shangri-la.com

L’Abeille

Housed in in the Shangri-La hotel, this addition to Paris’ haute dining scene set critics abuzz.

Practical information

Address: 10 avenue d’Iéna, 75016
Nearest transport: Iéna (9)
Hours: Dinner only, Tuesday through Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 53 67 19 90
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French, Haute Cuisine
Website

Reviews of interest

François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2011) “…chic ultrafrançais…décor très réussi… voilà le chef tout aussi vindicatif sur une poularde de Bresse légèrement fumée, sublimement moelleuse, sertie d’un caviar croquant et chahuté par le mariage amer du sarrasin et du fromage de chèvre.”

Alexander Lobrano (2011) “I ordered the foie gras, also cooked two ways…this dish was the very definition of ‘haute cuisine,’ or the highest cooking, and eating it, I vacillated between deep pleasure and a profound admiration for the chef…L’Abeille is indeed a haute-cuisine restaurant, and a very fine one which seriously enriches the gastronomic landscape of Paris at that.”

Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2011) “…la cuisine d’ici ose le vent contraire d’un dîner comme un soir de concert autour de recettes très construites, portées sur les variations, ajoutant du subtil au subtil jusqu’à déposer la plupart des mets dans l’aristocratie d’un double service.”

 

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Le Chateaubriand by Meg Zimbeck

Le Chateaubriand

You can only reserve for the first seating at Le Chateaubriand. After that, you’ll have to wait in line with everyone else for a stab at Iñaki Aizpitarte’s unique menu, a parade of forgotten vegetables, fish, and meat (some raw, some cooked) that landed the restaurant on San Pellegrino’s 50 Best list last year.

Practical information

Address: 129 Avenue Parmentier, 75011
Nearest transport: Goncourt (11)
Hours: Dinner only, Closed Sunday, Closed Monday
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 43 57 45 95
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Modern French

Reviews of interest

Gilles Pudlowski (2011) “Inaki Aizpitarte, basque bondissant, autodidacte malicieux…continue d’avancer à sa manière ludique et précise…il faut être au moins une fois. Et où le plaisir est dans l’assiette.”

Barbra Austin (2010) “The colors are odd and bold and there’s something painterly about the presentation…There’s a lightness to this food that I appreciate, particularly in summer.  And I like the way the ingredients retain their integrity…the end result can be oddly austere and occasionally jarring.”

Meg Zimbeck (2009) “…the dish names are deceptively simple.  For example, ‘tranche de boeuf, aubergine, faiselle’…Like most of Iñaki’s creations, it was a surprising combination of elements that I would never dream of putting together…”

Food Snob (2009) “This modern, cosmopolitan theme is in stark contrast to the very restaurant wherein it resides: contemporary cooking in a classic bistro; colourful food within sombre walls…”

Food & Wine (2009) “…radical reconstructions of classic French dishes (foie gras served in miso soup)—all marvelously incongruous…”

Le Fooding “…des plats qui sont meilleurs que d’autres, des jours où Iñaki excelle, d’autres où le plat n’a pas collé au Basque, et du monde, beaucoup de monde.  Nous, on adore!”

François Simon (2007) “…une table encensée par la presse…”

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Le Meurice Interior

Le Meurice

This Michelin 3-star was helmed by Yannick Alleno until he moved on in 2013 after opening his locavore bistro Terroir Parisien. Alain Ducasse took the reigns in September 2013.

Practical information

Address: 228 rue de Rivoli, 75001
Nearest transport: Tuileries (1)
Hours: Closed Saturday and Sunday
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 44 58 10 55
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Website

Reviews of interest

Reviews from meals with Alain Ducasse as chef

François-Régis Gaudry (2014) “Sacrée asperge!”

David Lebovitz (2013) “I’m gonna call it and say that the first course was the best thing I ate in 2013. Out came an iron pot with a lid, which was set down between us along with two long forks and little bowls of sorrel mayonnaise. When they lifted the lid, we were presented with a simple tumble of vegetables cooked over a concave demi-circle of coarse, gray salt. Each vegetable was au nature, but each one was the most marvelously flavored vegetable I ever tasted in the last ten years.”

Emmanuel Rubin (2013) “Voilà une table de hauteur jamais hautaine, où l’on s’accorde l’art de se ruiner heureux. Surtout le meilleur Ducasse depuis longtemps!”

Alexander Lobrano (2013) “Ultimately, this was a superb and very daring meal…simple and wholesome.”

Camille Labro (2013) “Alors oui, les prix sont astronomiques, et je préfèrerais toujours une assiette bonne franquette dans un bistro où l’on peut parler fort et rigoler de bon cœur. Mais Ducasse et ses équipes savent créer des moments gastronomiques de haute volée, qui étonnent et détonnent, prouvant que l’on peut cuisiner grand sans rien dénaturer, et que le luxe réside souvent dans les goûts simples et une belle botte de navets.”

Reviews from meals with Yannick Alleno as chef

Gilles Pudlowski (2011) “Bref, voilà une maison au mieux de son style, à redécouvrir le midi pour ce menu fortiche qui exalte les saveurs du terroir parisien avec une confondante habileté.”

Patricia Wells (2010) “Almost too beautiful to eat…”

François Simon (2010) “L’assiette de Yannick Alleno était dans ce genre de magie poétique…”

Alexander Lobrano (2009) “… five days after left the table at Le Meurice, I am still savoring that exquisite spring lunch.”

Food Snob (2009) “…Everything was cooked flawlessly, ingredients were excellent, presentation appealed, but I was just not overwhelmed by deliciousness.”

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Baba au rhum at Mini Palais restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Mini Palais

Eric Fréchon of the Bristol is the consulting chef of this contemporary, chic brasserie. Book a table on the terrace when weather permits. Open every day, all day.

Practical information

Address: Ave. Winston Churchill, in The Grand Palais, 75008
Nearest transport: Champs-Elysées Clemenceau (1, 13)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 42 56 42 42
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, renowned chef, vegetarian options, outdoor dining, good for groups, good for solo dining, continuous all-day service, open Sunday, open Monday, valet parking

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2013) “Without ever becoming fussy, Mr. Frechon’s appealing menu cleverly moves brasserie dining toward a more elegant register with dishes like a tartare of oysters and scallops garnished with a lemon-and-curry-flavored foam and veal sweetbreads glazed with Comté cheese and vin jaune…The hostesses can be chilly, and the service disorganized.”

Patricia Wells (2011) “a Paris restaurant with a welcoming outdoor terrace, open non-stop seven days a week from 10 am to midnight, service that’s polite (if a bit slow) and food that is utterly modern, fresh and seasonal. I’d call it Grand Slam.”

Thierry Richard (2011) “…sans aucun doute une des terrasses les plus agréables…Une table gentiment fusion…C’est joliment fait et de très bonne tenue pour une salle transatlantique qui défile les couverts par dizaines.”

François Simon (2011) “Le lieu est magnifique, surtout aux beaux jours…Parfait pour une clientèle choisie de se retrouver autour d’assiettes jouant pianissimo mais non sans efficacité…”

John Talbott (2010) “..inside it was gorgeous, stunning, beautiful and I breathed freely.  Before ordering they served an amuse bouche of a mini-brioche…Then I decided to have the formula (28 E for two dishes) and he two entrees with dessert (32 E); not bad eh for three-star grub?”

Alexander Lobrano (2010) “Handsome though this room might be, I’d never be tempted if the food weren’t good, and happily it’s very good…Dining with friends, we loved the brilliant clafoutis of ceps mushrooms, squid with pil-pil sauce…and all of us eyeballed a gorgeous looking rock-lobster club sandwich as it went by on a waiter’s tray, too…”

Barbra Austin via Girls’ Guide to Paris (2010) “In the spirit of a brasserie, Le Mini Palais is open every day with continuous service, which makes it an elegant choice for a late lunch, a snack, an afternoon tea or an apéro.”

 

 

 

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Pierre Gagnaire by Meg Zimbeck

Pierre Gagnaire

Pierre Gagnaire is widely regarded as one of the city’s most creative culinary wizards.

Practical information

Address: 6 rue Balzac, 75008
Nearest transport: George V (1)
Hours: Closed Sunday lunch, Closed Wednesday lunch, Closed Saturday
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 58 36 12 50
Website
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, prestige ingredients, molecular gastronomy, haute cuisine, superior wine list, exceptional desserts, renowned chef, open Sunday, open Monday

Reviews of interest

François Simon (2009) “La gastronomie dans ces rares moments s’avère être belle et bonne.Mon meilleur repas de l’année…”

Food Snob (2009) “Random combinations of produce, unusual treatments of products, the introduction of science into cooking…Gagnaire utilises all such practices without prejudice.”

Barbra Austin (2009) “This is Fine Dining, capitalized and punctuated with three Michelin stars, all yours for a three-figure price tag before you even mention wine.  It is a special event, an experience…”

Sophie Brissaud (2005) “Si je devais résumer, d’après le dîner d’hier soir, cette cuisine, j’insisterais sur sa délicatesse, sa poésie et sa miraculeuse unité de style.”

Patricia Wells “There is no chef more creative than Pierre Gagnaire is…”

 

 

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Thoumieux by Meg Zimbeck

Thoumieux

The brasserie reinvented, by Jean-François Piège.

Practical information

Address: 79 rue St. Dominique, 75007
Nearest transport: La Tour Maubourg (8)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 47 05 49 75
Website
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, molecular gastronomy, renowned chef, open Sunday, open Monday, valet parking

Reviews of interest

Le Fooding (2013) ““très bruyant, très show-off, carte rétrogressive, miche de pain croustillant, rillettes de sardines, calamar sauvage à la carbonara, quasi de veau cuit tout doucement condiment vitello-tonnato, glace vanille minute éclats de noisettes…”

François Simon (2010) “…c’est bien mieux.”

Meg Zimbeck (2009) “…like talking to an incredibly good looking guy who’s only a little bit annoying.”

Alexander Lobrano (2009) “…a frustratingly uneven meal, with thrilling flashes of Piege’s talent lighting up a culinary spectrum that otherwise ran from average to mediocre.”

John Talbott (2009) “I had a lackluster poitrine of pork with a crackling crust of something nicely strange with lentils…it was nowhere as good as the print-boys said.”

Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2009) “Classique sur le fond, nettement plus chahuteuse sur la forme, la cuisine traduit en manières d’aujourd’hui ce petit éternel des brasseries. Certains trouveront à minauder sur quelques préparations un peu dans la joliesse, voire gentiment narcissiques, mais comment ne pas excuser quelques grammes de parisianisme dans une maison renouant enfin avec Paris?”

 

 

 

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Gaya via pierre-gagnaire.com

Gaya

Pierre Gagnaire’s thoroughly modern seafood spot.

Practical information

Address: 44 rue du Bac, 75007
Nearest transport: Rue du Bac (12)
Hours: Closed Sunday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 45 44 73 73
Website
Average price for lunch: 50-99€
Average price for dinner: 50-99€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: prestige ingredients, standout seafood, renowned chef

Reviews of interest

Franck Pinay-Rabaroust (2014) “Il y a le nom de Pierre Gagnaire qui résonne un petit partout dans le monde et il y a celui de Nicolas Fontaine qui ne déborde pas trop des jolis murs du restaurant Gaya Rive Gauche. Tant mieux… il délivre une partition culinaire plaisante, riche en goût et en émotion. Moins complexe que celle réalisée dans la maison mère de la rue de Balzac, la cuisine de Gaya propose néanmoins ce même peps à la « Gagnaire » qui fait que chaque plat peut surprendre mais sans dérouter. Ici, la cuisine y est plus sécurisante, sans sortie de route possible.”

François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2010) “Le bistrot marin de Pierre Gagnaire : un genre de mini-yatch lactescent, rétro-éclairé…Le merlan à la moelle de boeuf…un ping-pong terre-mer, nettement plus limpide cette fois, arbitré par les touches végétales d’un joyeux  »jus vert » (à base de purée d’épinard et de beurre meunière) et du chou juste blanchi…”

Gilles Pudlowski (2010) “…des mets marins raffinés délivrés par une équipe efficace et complice…Le bonheur? Il peut être au bar, avec ce que Pierre Gagnaire nomme ‘la pêche modeste’. Le bortsch d’été, avec espadon, quenelle de rumsteack, pain noir, crème épaisse, l’anchois frais à la basquaise…”

François Simon (date unknown) “…des plats réussis, de la classe, de l’originalité… L’esprit Gagnaire est là, dans tout ce qu’il a d’accessible à condition d’aimer être surpris.”

John Talbott (2005) “…it was all Gagnaire with none of the old Gaya left over…our firsts were a “cocktail” glass of wasabied mango and grapefruit, then noodles, topped off with thinly sliced cod as well as an “egg mimosa,”… mains were a deconstructed tempura-ized cuttlefish and haddock and coques on a bed of mixed grains (bulgar, quinoa and an ancient variety of wheat from Provence) – both exquisite.”

 

 

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Kitchen Galerie Bis by Meg Zimbeck

KGB (Kitchen Galerie Bis)

KGB is the offshoot of fusion master William Ledeuil’s Kitchen Galerie, offering the same mash up of global flavors that made him famous, in small plate format and at lower prices.

Practical information

Address: 25 rue des Grands Augustins, 75006
Nearest transport: St. Michel (4, RER B, C) or Odéon (4, 10)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 46 33 00 85
Website
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Fusion
Special attributes: prix-fixe, small plates, market-based cooking, prestige ingredients, renowned chef

Reviews of interest

Figaroscope (2010) “…bigrement moderniste dans ses petites touches contemporaines adoucies par une dimension asiatique, tout en douceur et en parfums. Accueil parfait…”

John Talbott (2009) “…inventive dishes, exploding palates and easy prices…”

Alexander Lobrano (2009) “…the main reason Ledeuil’s food is so good is that his finely honed culinary technique doesn’t ‘fuse’ these foreign ingredients into French bistro cooking, it sublimates them…”

François Simon (2009) “Je reste un inconditionnel de l’esprit Kitchen: sa légerété, ses touches asian, sa façon de faire danser le produit et l’accueil soft…”

Thierry Richard (2009) “Des parfums, des couleurs, de la subtilité dans les alliances et de la maîtrise dans les dosages. Brillant!”

 

 

 

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Jean-François Piège restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Jean-François Piège

Above bustling Thoumieux, his brasserie gourmande, Jean-François Piège has opened an intimate 20-seat showcase for his creative, modern French cooking. Michelin awarded 2 stars within months of his opening.

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Claude Colliot by Meg Zimbeck

Claude Colliot

This self-taught modernist chef’s signature dishes include an oyster sorbet, chicken cooked with licorice root, and a “larme” (tear) of chocolate.

Practical information

Address: 40 rue des Blancs-Manteaux, 75004
Nearest transport: Hotel de Ville (1) or Rambuteau (11)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 42 71 55 45
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 50-100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Website

Reviews of interest

Philippe Toinard (2013) “Pour le bœuf grillé ou le filet d’orphie (poisson de mer ressemblant à une anguille), Claude Colliot les présente prédécoupés accompagnés de ce qui fait la signature de sa cuisine, une fleur de capucine par-ci, des radis ronds et des carottes multicolores par-là sans oublier de la poudre d’olives noires, quelques herbes et des jus de cuisson dont il a le secret. Une idée plutôt convaincante.”

Caroline Mignot (2010) “Lotte champêtre (avec son champ de fleurs parfumées), réduction sauce soja, huile de sésame et d’autres choses et compotée de pommes. Servi à côté, le bol de légumes du moment encore croquants, navets, carottes…c’est délicieux, parfumé, gracieux.”

Caroline Mignot (2010) “Cette cuisine simple en apparence camoufle dans ses entrailles bien des subtilités…”

François Régis-Gaudry in l’Express (2010) “Sous l’apparente candeur de ces exercices de juxtaposition se profile en réalité un doigté hors pair pour les ricochets de saveurs, les puzzles de couleurs et la balance des goûts.”

Emmanuel Rubin in Le Figaro (2009) “…entre les beaux murs d’un intérieur very Marais, Colliot signe et soigne une cuisine de mouvement, technique sans être démonstrative, droit au but et au brut du produit.”

Alexander Lobrano (2009) “…the meal started, and quite well, since the service here is outstanding…Then our first courses arrived, and conversation stalled as we worked very hard to understand them…”

John Talbott (2009) “simple sounding maraichier starter (I recoil – simple market veggies from Colliot, oh no), sorry, it was incredible, simple-sounding, complexly-made, my, oh my… scallops…were among the best I’ve ever had…”

 

 

 

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cafeconstantviacafeconstant

Café Constant

Christian Constant is the unofficial mayor of rue St. Dominique. His casual, no-reservations café is open all day, starting at 8 in the morning.

Practical information

Address: 139 rue St. Dominique, 75007
Nearest transport: Ècole Militaire (8) or Pont de l’Alma (RER C)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 47 53 73 34
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes: market-based cooking, comfort food, renowned chef, continuous all-day service, open Sunday

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2013) “Our mains came off as the sort of formatted high-volumn cooking the French might refer to as “correcte,” or honest, while exhibiting no perceptible creative flair. Ditto the creme caramel we shared, right down to its squirt bottle blazes of caramel sauce. And perhaps even more gravely, despite the well-meaning and conscientious service, this restaurant had little charm.”

Le Figaro (2011) “Même s’il n’est plus derrière les fourneaux, le chef sait choisir ses lieu­tenants…En l’occurrence, un répertoire tra­ditionnel de superbe exécution où l’effiloché de crabe et pommes rattes discute le bout de gras avec la caille farcie au… foie gras. Le tout à prix d’ami.”

Le Figaro (2009) “…des plats qui sonnent juste comme les desserts d’antan, furieusement bons (riz au lait, île flottante, crème caramel).”

Caroline Mignot (2009) “Il faut dire que la cuisine de Christian Constant version bistro, c’est de l’ultra efficace, des plats serrés, denses, avec ces brins d’herbe qui courent de partout…”

Figaroscope(2008) “…on s’y rue (sans réservation) pour l’ardoise du jour qui, moyennant 33 €, vous offrira tartare de saumon, saint-jacques et huîtres, tête de veau croustillante et sublime tarte au chocolat…”

 

 

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Les Cocottes by Barbra Austin

Les Cocottes

Though the breezy service and long counter are reminiscent of an American diner, they are not slinging hash at Christian Constant’s Les Cocottes. An easy, no-reservations choice in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower.

Practical information

Address: 135 rue St. Dominique, 75007
Nearest transport: École Militaire (8)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: no phone
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes: market-based cooking, comfort food, renowned chef, vegetarian options, good for solo dining, communal table, open Monday

Reviews of interest

David Lebovitz (2010) “…the hearty food served in Staub casseroles is worth the wait.”

Barbra Austin via Girls’ Guide to Paris (2010) “Constant’s impeccable kitchen at Les Cocottes, in the hands of Philippe Cadeau, turns out thoughtful, unpretentious food in short order.”

Le Figaro (2010) “Savoureuses pommes de terre caramélisées, farcies au pied de porc, fricassée de volaille aux olives et citron confit, jeunes légumes du moment cuisinés en cocotte… Ultrafrais, ultrabon.”

David Lebovitz (2009) “Les Cocottes sits on a pretty prestigious piece of land, in the seventh arrondissement, not known for good-value restaurants…But Les Cocottes is a good value, and what makes it even better, the food is worth every centime.”

John Talbott (2007) “I started with a cold ptipois soup with strip of spicy salty chorizo and crème fraiche, then going on to the pigeon with big peas and delicious greens and scallions, finishing with a waffle with Chantilly and salty caramel. The meal was just as advertised, simple, honest and made from good products. It ain’t starred cooking nor is it meant to be…”

 

 

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l_atelier-de-joel-robuchonviafoodsnob

L’Atelier Saint-Germain de Joël Robuchon

The original L’Atelier, in what’s now a global empire. Known for a particular brand of relaxed fine dining, our contributors nonetheless voted it on to our list of Five Great Steak Frites in Paris. Note: Reservations are ONLY accepted for the first seatings of each service. Otherwise, it’s first-come-first-served.

Practical information

Address: 5 rue Montalembert, 75007
Nearest transport: rue du Bac (12)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Reservations accepted ONLY for the 11:30 am and 6:30 pm seatings – Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 42 22 56 56
Website
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, small plates, prestige ingredients, haute cuisine, renowned chef, standout seafood, good for solo dining, open Sunday, open Monday, valet parking

Reviews of interest

Chrisoscope (2012) “Bien que la qualité de l’assiette et des produits restent excellents, j’ai été déçu par le reste lors de notre dernier déjeuner…après l’ouverture de l’Atelier de Robuchon au Drugstore Publicis sur les Champs Elysées et des départs/rotations de personnel, les équipes en salle et en cuisine m’ont semblé plus jeunes, moins appliquées et moins rigoureuses… Enfin, la clientèle est très nettement composée de touristes.”

Patricia Wells (2010) “An astonishingly delicious celebratory lunch…Best taste of the day was certainly the sea bream carpaccio, feathery petals of fish marinated in citrus juice, plenty of lime zest, perfectly seasoned with olive oil and salt.”

Food Snob (2009) “Service was very pleasant…Unfortunately, I found the food unimpressive…”

 

 

 

 

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l'Arpège by Meg Zimbeck

L’Arpège

Alain Passard spins turnips into gold at this vegecentric (but not vegetarian) three star restaurant.

An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 84 rue de Varenne, 75007
Nearest transport: Varenne (13)
Hours: Closed Sunday, Closed Saturday
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 47 05 09 06
Website
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, prestige ingredients, haute cuisine, superior wine list, exceptional desserts, renowned chef, vegetarian options, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Patricia Wells (2011) “A big disappointment, once again. We sampled the 120 euro garden luncheon, and Passard turns out to be a real Johnny one note in the potager…course after monotonous, unimaginative course turned out a little more than I could bear of carrots, beets, turnips, onions. Dish after dish I kept waiting for Passard to finish the sentence. But he never did.”

François Simon (2010) “…Passard…cultive lui-même ses légumes non loin de Paris, travaille le thème dans tous les sens, son restaurant est sans doute l’un des meilleurs observatoires sur le thème.”

Sophie Brissaud (2009) “…le poème végétal d’Alain Passard s’élève désormais avec une délicatesse infinie, une maîtrise arrivée au stade du jeu permanent.”

Ulterior Epicure (2009) “…Rarely does a chef cook vegetables well. Even scarcer is a chef who can cook vegetables well AND do something interesting with them…Passard does both, and more.”

Food Snob (2009) “…there is Passard’s panache and flair, his creative and culinary genius to contend with. This is most keenly felt via his valuable vegetables.”

 

 

 

 

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Le Jules Verne via lejulesverne-paris.fr

Le Jules Verne

Perched high in the Eiffel Tower, the restaurant was taken over by Ducasse, and his chef Pascal Féraud offers a menu of classics, befitting of the location (foie gras in many forms, escargots, tournedos de boeuf, Bresse chicken, savarin a l’Armagnac). One Michelin star.

Practical information

Address: The Eiffel Tower, 75007
Nearest transport: Bir Hakeim (6) or Trocadero (6, 9)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 45 55 61 44
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, haute cuisine
Website

Reviews of interest

Ruth Reichl (2014) “It was, from start to finish, a miserable experience… I have never had such bad service in an expensive restaurant… food that reminded me of nothing so much as first class airline food.”

Caroline Mignot (2011) “..la carte nous ramène bien dans l’hexagone, les étendards de la cuisine françaises sont là, langoustine, ris de veau, volaille de Bresse, profiteroles, savarin…la magie du lieu participe autant, si ce n’est plus, de celle de la cuisine…”

David Lebovitz (2008) “Once they hit their stride, and hopefully they will, I hope they combine the well-prepared food with perfectly-polished service, worthy of such a dramatic setting.”

François Simon (2007) “C’est assez impressionnant de dîner ainsi au dessus d’une des plus belles cités de la terre. Les desserts, par chance, ne jouent pas aux Einstein (savarin à l’armagnac, soufflé au citron vert). Service véloce avec cette niaque propre aux premiers jours. Paris compte aujourd’hui un nouveau (bon) restaurant.”

 

 

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Epicure (formerly Le Bristol)

The gastronomic table at Le Bristol hotel has been renamed, but revered chef Eric Frechon remains at the stove. The dining room has been renovated, too, offering a view onto the hotel gardens. Three Michelin stars.

Practical information

Address: 112 rue Faubourg St. Honoré, 75008
Nearest transport: Miromesnil (9, 13)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 53 43 43 40
Website
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, haute cuisine, superior wine list, exceptional desserts, renowned chef, outdoor dining, open Sunday, open Monday, valet parking

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2010) “…it was a challenge to remain focused on the conversation when I was experiencing so much private pleasure from what we ate….veal sweetbreads cooked in a tobacco leaf and served with a puree of Jerusalem artichokes with a coffee and reglisse jus. Nothing I’ve eaten all year provided more solid evidence of the absolute genius of French cooking.”

Alexander Lobrano (2008) “I’ve been following talented chef Eric Frechon’s cooking ever since he first went out on his own…Everything about this meal was superb–setting, service and food.

François Simon “Sa cuisine oscille entre répertoire classique où il excelle (superbe lièvre à la royale, un chouia trop salé, mais explosant de bonté dans sa nuit de noir velours) et l’invention dans laquelle il se croit convoqué.”

 

 

 

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jretoile

L’Atelier Etoile de Joël Robuchon

Joël Robuchon’s empire expands again with the opening of another Atelier, this time on the Champs Elysées. This one is bigger than the left bank outpost, with an actual dining room in addition to the trademark counter seating.

Practical information

Address: 133 avenue des Champs Elysées, 75008 (in the Publicis complex)
Nearest transport: Etoile (1, 2, 6, RER A)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 47 23 75 75
Website
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, small plates, prestige ingredients, haute cuisine, superior wine list, exceptional desserts, renowned chef, standout seafood, open Sunday, open Monday, valet parking

Reviews of interest

Patricia Wells (2011) “the bright red and black space is already full of glittery Las Vegas-style drama. But the real scene is what’s on the plate and what happens to your palate with each pleasurable bite… [a] specialty not to be ignored is the penetrating bite of smooth and pungent foie gras set in a dense port jelly, topped with a soothing Parmesan cream. Mouthfilling, intense, unforgettable..”

François Simon (2010) “…on retrouvera la percussion de la Rive Gauche avec sans doute une gentille différence de clientèle…”

 

 

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Terroir Parisien Palais Brongniart Yannick Alleno Paris restaurant  sweetbread sausage

Terroir Parisien at the Palais Brongniart

This new location of Yannick Alleno’s popular bistro is one of our favorite new openings of 2013, featuring pedigreed local ingredients and updated classic recipes from the region around Paris. This location at the Bourse boasts a rillettes bar sells terrines and pâtés to go.

An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 28 place de la Bourse, 75002
Nearest transport: Bourse (3)
Hours: Closed Sundays; open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Book a day or two in advance
Telephone: 01 83 92 20 30
E-mail: reservation-bourse@terroirparisien.fr
Style of cuisine: Classic French, small plates & tapas
Website

Reviews of interest

Caroline Mignot (2014) “Vous l’aurez compris, dans ce quartier en quête d’adresses « affaire », rodées, sérieuses et efficaces, Terroir Parisien fait le plein.”

Philippe Toinard for A Nous Paris (2014) “Dommage, après le Terroir parisien de la Maison de la Mutualité, rive gauche, la rive droite avait l’occasion de s’encanailler autour des recettes franciliennes qu’Alléno, le local de l’étape, connaît sur le bout de la langue…Tout cela est bien pensé, mais encore faut-il que ce soit rodé.”
Le Monde (2014) “Pour le moment, il s’est pris d’amour pour la charcuterie qui trône en majesté au bar à rillettes et à la carte. De 7 à 10 €, avec un sac “apéro” de 4 à 24 €. Pâté en croûte rustique ou de volaille de Houdan, terrines, rillettes de porc au café, de pintade, de crabe, saucisson à l’ail, jambon blanc coupé à la Berkel, persillé de jambon ou boudin noir : c’est l’oeuvre de Jean-Michel Bannwart, meilleur ouvrier de France charcutier 1996.”

David Lebovitz (2013) “…had the scallops on a bed of beet “risotto” for my main course. The rich, inky flavor of the mound of creamy beets didn’t really marry with the scallops and I couldn’t quite wrap my head around the combination.”

Paris Bouge (2013) “Le chef s’attaque à ce qui plaît le plus aux « titis parisiens » : charcuteries, pâtés en croute, terrines, jambons persillés ou boudin noir, tout est préparé intra-muros dans son laboratoire. Autre nouveauté, le « rillette bar » qui propose dès 18h30 des compositions aux arômes singuliers comme le cabillaud blanc aux haricots blancs, le crabe au cresson de Méréville, ou le cochon au café fort.”

John Talbott (2013) “How Alleno does both classic and innovative at the same time is head-snapping.”

Emmanuel Rubin (2013) “À l’arrivée, une chic brasserie au confort un peu raide et sa cuisine ouverte comme écran, qui trotte à disposer un appétit carré sous le concept, franchement bien exécuté, d’une saine efficacité mais en manque de climat…Du coup, en attendant que l’esprit s’en mêle, du moins le public, on a un peu le sentiment d’une adresse média-marketée, d’une gastronomie en QCM. Un bon baiser de Paris, certes, mais envoyé par e-mail.”

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Spring Restaurant

American chef Daniel Rose offers a menu that changes with the seasons, and his whim. A very tough reservation.

An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 6 rue Bailleul, 75001
Nearest transport: Louvre-Rivoli (1)
Hours: Lunch, Wednesday-Friday; Dinner, Tuesday-Saturday; Closed Sunday and Monday.
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance (lunch reservations can be made online)
Telephone: 01 45 96 05 72
Website
Average price for lunch: 35-49€ (menu 44€)
Average price for dinner: 50-100€ (menu 76€)
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: open kitchen, excellent wine selection, market cooking, celebrity chef

Reviews of interest

Sophie Brissaud (2012) “…à mon avis un des rares restaurants où le travail sur la tradition culinaire française s’accompagne d’une véritable approche d’investigation, de recherche…Ici, à Spring, on est toujours conscient du caractère mouvant, tourbillonnant de l’inspiration culinaire, que l’on fait partager au client d’une façon unique, à laquelle je ne connais aucun équivalent.”

The New York Times (2011) “The multicourse menu — ours included seven — was an impressive journey through the early-winter market: poached sea bass served room temperature with a snappy vinaigrette, oysters and a cap of frizzled leeks; silky veal “candy” cooked sous-vide and sweetened with butter-poached heirloom beets; rich and crispy shredded veal breast confit, cut with orange.”

Chroniques du Plaisir (2010) “On sait où se trouve la priorité ici : dans la cuisine. Celle qui nous régale et nous étonne par sa simplicité et ses audaces modestes. Une de mes adresses préférées à Paris. Courez-y!”

Bruno Verjus (2010) “24 couverts cosmopolites offrent une salle concentrée et attentive aux gestes des Chefs. Le plaisir s’offre depuis la cuisine, scène ouverte aux clients spectateurs. Le pas à pas de l’élaboration des assiettes construit l’imaginaire de leur dégustation.”

David Lebovitz (2010) “Finally came dessert, which started with bowls of raspberries, with the gentle dampness of berries that have been just-picked, floating in a light peach tea with unsweetened cocoa nibs bobbing in the broth, which provided not-too-sweet transition to dessert.”

Meg Zimbeck for BlackBook (2010) “Nearly all of the hooks that comprised Rose’s story have changed within the last three years. The underdog who cooked alone and undercharged for every plate has grown into the Hot Chef who manages a team and sometimes speaks in terms of branding.”

Barbra Austin (2010) “What’s refreshing is that Josh is not afraid to include wines from beyond the Hexagon.  International selections are difficult to find in chauvinist France, and it’s a joy for this lover of aromatic whites to see German and Austrian bottles holding court with their Alsatian cousins.  I can’t wait for the wine bar to open on the lower level.”

Mr. Lung (2010) “Dish-side, Daniel Rose’s cuisine has always been very emotional, and it is not surprising that some of his feelings find their way to the table. There is now some restlessness, hesitations and even a sense of aggravation that were never palpable at the first Spring or in the lasts months of Table 28. But do not think that the food is bad.  His major qualities are still there: sensitivity, the mastery in roasting, the accuracy of each dish… Yet it is obvious that the team has settled in the new venue and needs to find their marks.”

Alexander Lobrano (2010) “Our lunch as privileged guineau pigs was sensational. Rose plans to build his lunch menu around bouillon with different garnishes… the best bouillon I’ve ever had in my life–deep, ruddy, potent and profoundly soothing, with grilled chicken and tiny vegetables. Desserts were superb, too…”

John Talbott (2010) “It was the most interesting and fascinating food experience I think I’ve ever had… The concept for lunch: a fixed price bouillon of the day with chicken, although pigeon could be substituted, and veggies; and a selection of something like 10 small plates, which depending on whether you were on the fly or siitting down to an extended repast, could be served family/Asian style or one by one, in portions that will probably serve two persons.”

 

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La Salle à Manger d’Hélène (Darroze)

Hélène Darroze is one of only a handful women whose work has been consecrated by Michelin. Her cooking is strongly accented with southwestern flavors, here elevated to one-star levels in a modern, luxe dining room, as well as the less formal “salon,” where small plates are available.

Practical information

Address: 4 rue d’Assas, 75006
Nearest transport: Rennes (4) or Sevres-Babylone (10, 12)
Hours: Closed Sunday, Closed Monday
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 42 22 00 11
Website
Average price for lunch: 50-99€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, haute cuisine
Special attributes: prix-fixe, haute cuisine, renowned chef, good for groups, valet parking

Reviews of interest

Gilles Pudlowski (2010) “Il y a, bien sûr, les choses qui agacent, les réservations difficiles, le service jeune…Mais ces mets de cuisine du Sud-Ouest modernisée, revue au gré de l’air du temps, qu’elle dispense et propose selon la saison reste d’une finesse éblouissante.”

Figaroscope (2008) “Au rez-de-chaussée de son étoilé, le Salon d’Hélène est un charmant boudoir cosy et chatoyant, avec banquettes et fauteuils de velours multicolores et un amusant couvert bariolé…la sélection d’une douzaine de beaux vins au verre et la vente de produits Sud-Ouest….”

 

 

 

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latabledejoelrobuchonviawolfgangjung'sflickr

Our Guide to Paris: La Table de Joël Robuchon (now closed)

La Table de Joël Robuchon is now closed. Look for Robuchon at his other Paris locations, L’Atelier Etoile de Joël Robuchon, and L’Atelier Saint-Germain de Joël Robuchon.

Practical information

Address: 16 ave Bugeaud, 75016
Nearest transport: Victor Hugo (2)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 56 28 16 16
Website
Map

Average price for lunch: More than €100
Average price for dinner: More than €100
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: renowned chef, open Sunday, open Monday, valet parking
Type of crowd: suits, foodies, tourists
Interior: elegant & luxe
Atmosphere: formal

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Ze Kitchen Galerie by Meg Zimbeck

Ze Kitchen Galerie

East meets west at William Ledeuil’s much-lauded Ze Kitchen Galerie.

Practical information

Address: 4 rue des Grands Augustins, 75006
Nearest transport: Odéon (4, 10) or St. Michel (4, RER B, C)
Hours: Closed Sunday, Closed Saturday lunch
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 44 32 00 32
Website
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: modern French, fusion
Special attributes: prix-fixe, renowned chef, open Monday

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2014) “If I die tonight, I’ll die happy.  With William in the kitchen and Cedric minding the front, what more could one ask for? This place has managed to both get it down pat and keep changing – a wonderful combo.”

Thierry Richard (2013) “Tout change mais rien ne change: la table de William Ledeuil reste toujours l’une de nos adresses parisiennes préférées.”

John Talbott (2011) “Ze Kitchen Galerie keeps on producing, and one enters never knowing what to expect and leaves astonished by the creative mind that keeps on creating dishes…a sea urchin soup with squid, pressed salmon eggs…wrapped minced milk-fed lamb with Thai herbs and ginger…crab and shrimp raviolis with Thai pistou…”

Meg Zimbeck (2010) “Ledeuil’s marriage of Far Eastern flavors and traditional French ingredients is unusual in this city. Beyond simply being ‘interesting,’ Ledeuil’s conceptions also taste consistently good…”

François Simon (2007) “…ce qui nous enchante, c’est le métissage des idées à l’instar de la cuisine pratiquée par William Ledeuil, dans sa Kitchen Galerie.”

 

 

 

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Les Ambassadeurs

Les Ambassadeurs (currently closed)

CURRENTLY CLOSED UNTIL 2015. Pretend the financial crisis never happened, and book Les Ambassadeurs, where the young chef Christopher Hache is making a name for himself. One Michelin star.

Practical information

Address: 10 place de la Concorde, 75008
Nearest transport: Concorde (1, 8, 12)
Hours: Closed Sunday, Monday, and Saturday lunch
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 44 71 16 16
Website
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a531242d600c02008&ll=48.86631,2.321248&spn=0.006931,0.019183&z=16 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French, Haute Cuisine
Special attributes: prix-fixe, prestige ingredients, haute cuisine, superior wine list, renowned chef, valet parking
Type of crowd: suits, foodies
Interior: elegant & luxe
Atmosphere: formal

Reviews of interest

  • Gilles Pudlowski (2011) “une équipe de cuisine motivée et un service souriant sans ostentation…tout ce qui se propose là, sur un mode classique allégé, savant, renouvelé, est frappé du sceau de la qualité, du sérieux, de la rigueur et de la fraîcheur…
  • Alexander Lobrano (2010) “I liked my lunch very much, too…my starter of ormeaux sauvage (wild abalone) with mousseron mushrooms, peas and lardons was superb, and Hache, who previously trained with Senderens and Eric Frechon, among others, really showed his well-drilled technique with impeccably cooked veal sweetbreads with crushed cashews and sauteed cabbage…”
  • François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2010) “…à l’arrivée, cette déclinaison monovégétale et maniériste ne vaut pas la botte telle quelle, sans autre artifice. Preuve qu’on peut avoir beaucoup de personnel et manquer encore un peu de personnalité…Le chef pâtissier?…Il s’appelle Jérôme Chaucesse. Ce fut le vrai héros de la soirée.”
  • Pudlo (2010) “Bref, Christopher Hache est l’une des belles découvertes du Paris gourmand du moment. A 28 ans, cette tête bien faite et bien pleine compose une partition néo-classique, précise, fraîche, légère, somptueuse, épaulée par une équipe performante.”
  • François Simon “…si vous voulez savoir de quel bois se chauffe la cuisine française, cette table fait partie des expressions de la tendance.”
  • Le Figaro (2008) “La magie opère toujours pour le palace de la Concorde et la cuisine cinglante de Jean-François Piège…”

About our listings
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