Tag Archives: restaurants

Izakaya Issé

Issé has changed formats a few times over the years, and now it’s a “bistro à sake”, offering a menu of izakaya — small plates — for grazing while sipping something from the serious selection of sake.

Practical information

Address: 45 rue de Richelieu, 75001
Nearest transport: Pyramides (7, 14)
Hours: Closed Sunday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 42 96 26 60
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of Cuisine: Japanese
Special attributes: small plates, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Patricia Wells (2011) “I walked into Izakaya Issé on the rue de Richelieu, hoping for a quick, flavorful, inexpensive and light lunch. And that’s just what I got, in the name of domburi, the Japanese bowl of rice covered with a diverse assortment of fish, shellfish, meat or poultry.”

François Simon – Le Figaro (2011) “…aubergines mijotées, joues de bœuf au miso, couteaux sautés à l’ail, brochettes de porc avec légumes frits, fritures de pommes de terre et oignons… C’est plaisant, sans prise de chou, agréable à picorer, charmant pour tout dire.”

Gilles Pudlowski (2011) “Au programme: les « domburi », ces grands bols de riz recouverts de viandes ou poissons qu’on goûte à la régalade pour se sustenter rapidement. Mais l’ardoise, avec soupe aux ravioles de porc extra-fines ou le joli gratin de crabe, les idées du soir, comme les sashimi de saumon, thon…Le « plus » de la demeure: c’est évidemment le choix de sakés…”

John Talbott (2009) “…a place all the critics have been falling all over themselves about…Occasionally the big boys, when they haven’t been outside Paris for a while, fall in love with a chimera.”

Caroline Mignot (2009) “…je me régale tous les samedis, presque à en devenir monomaniaque…”

 

 

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La Dame de Pic (photo courtesy of her blog)

La Dame de Pic

This is the Paris outpost from Anne-Sophie Pic, named in 2011 as “the world’s best female chef” for her three-star restaurant in Valence. Here, and working with Philippe Bousseton, the nose for perfumer Takasago, Pic has created three menus based upon fragrance profiles. Menus at 49€ (lunch), 79€, 100€ and 120€.

Practical information

Address: 20 rue du Louvre, 75001
Nearest transport: Louvre-Rivoli (1)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 42 60 40 40
Average price for lunch: 35-49€ (menu 49€)
Average price for dinner: More than 100€ (menus at 79, 100, 120€)
Style of cuisine: Modern French/haute cuisine
Website

Reviews of interest

Ruth Reichl (2014) “Her food is the loveliest I’ve seen… Chef Pic has a penchant for floral flavors – rosewater and jasmine abound in her dishes… It made me wonder if there is perfume in Pic’s future.”

Caroline Mignot (2013) “Le vacherin au parfum de rose, de riz, de gingembre et de thé sencha. Si j’ai retrouvé avec plaisir tous les textures du vacherin (glacée, fondante, craquante), la délicatesse des notes était tellement poussée qu’elle m’a fait passer un peu à côté des parfums. Comme un parfum très, très léger qui se sent à peine sur la peau. Si je devais rester dans la métaphore du parfum, je dirais qu’il n’était pas assez capiteux à mon goût.”

Patricia Wells (2012) “Anne-Sophie Pic’s week-old La Dame de Pic near the Louvre is the sensation of the rentrée… She sports her feminine role, but does not flaunt it or play it cute. Ingredients are impeccable, preparations are complicated but not overdone, and the taste theme throughout is one of  softness and smoothness with a required touch of crunch. I would never think of pairing warm oysters with cauliflower, but Anne-Sophie offers a regal, cloud-like presentation of warm Gillardeau oysters bathed in a frank and fragrant cream of cauliflower and jasmine, surprising as well as satisfying.”

Alexander Lobrano via Twitter (2012) “La Dame du Pic in Paris…nah; Anne-Sophie Pic is a terrific chef but this place is way too high concept and over-priced.”

Bruno Verjus (2012) “Une belle table à fréquenter d’urgence avant la folie de la mode à venir. Une haute cuisine française pour le prix d’un bistrot chic parisien. L’adresse sincère d’une Dame de coeur.”

 

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El Nopal by Barbra Austin

El Nopal

A crowd queues at this sliver of a taqueria off the canal for Claudia and Alejandro’s tacos, burritos and quesadillas. There are only two stools in the tiny place, so plan on taking it to go.

Practical information

Address: 3 rue Eugène Varlin, 75010
Nearest transport: Chateau Landon (7)
Hours: Closed Monday
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 07 86 39 63 46
Average price for lunch: Less than 10€
Average price for dinner: Less than 10€
Style of cuisine: Mexican
Special attributes: comfort food, vegetarian options, good for solo dining, open Sunday, open Monday, Take-out available

Reviews of interest

Meg Zimbeck (2011) “I love the cactus-filled campechana and Alejandro’s handmade corn tortillas…that [tortilla] press will get a workout when summer arrives and locals discover the joy of  taco picnics along the Canal.”

Barbra Austin (2010) “I’ve also had the quesadilla with chorizo and its cousin the campechana, filled with grilled beef, nopalitos, avocado, and cheese. I’d like a burst of freshness in all of them, something to brighten up the flavors. Alejandro’s delicious salsa, made with fresh chilies – whatever varieties he finds – certainly helps. (Sensitive-palated Parisians, consider yourselves warned.)”

 

 

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Le 39V by Barbra Austin

Le 39V

A private elevator whisks you up to this rooftop address just off the Champs-Elysées, where chef Frederic Verdon (ex-Ducasse) is cooking in a sleek, black and chrome setting, with a small bar that offers a haven for solo diners, and a dining room that opens onto a leafy deck.

Practical information

Address: 39 avenue George V, 75008 (entrance at 17 rue Quentin-Bauchart)
Nearest transport: George V (1)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, Monday-Friday; closed Saturday and Sunday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 56 62 39 05
Website
Average price for lunch: 50-99€
Average price for dinner: 50-99€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes: rooftop dining, open Monday, valet parking, good for solo dining, outdoor dining

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2011) “It’s quite an elegant place…[I] loved the  garden in the outside courtyard…Colette had the roasted bar…and I had the foie gras with black radish and a rich almost beet-looking and tasting port sauce; in both cases the sauce and accompaniments outshone the centerpieces; as others have noted, the sauces really shine.”

Alexander Lobrano (2010) “…as Frederic Vardon, the talented chef at the new 39V restaurant makes so deliciously apparent, simplicity isn’t always simple…For example, the gently citric sauce that accompanied by griddled langoustines as a first course was so delicate that it might have been overlooked, but this was its genius since these tender tones of acidity perfectly accented the sweetness and delicate taste of the sea of these impeccably fresh clouds of flesh.”

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2010) “Frédéric Vardon compose la ligne claire d’une cuisine néo-classique, ici légère comme un shopping, parfois précieuse comme un soir de concert.”

 

 

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Le Petit Vendôme by Barbra Austin

Le Petit Vendôme

If you really want to lunch as the locals do, visit this old fashioned Auvergnate casse-croute.

Practical information

Address: 8 rue des Capucines, 75002
Nearest transport: Opéra (3, 7, 8 )
Hours: Closed Sunday, Closed Monday dinner, Closed Tuesday dinner, Closed Wednesday dinner, Closed Saturday
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 42 61 05 88
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes: comfort food, good for solo dining, open Monday

Reviews of interest

David Lebovitz (2011) “The place is packed full of locals…dim, noisy, and chaotic; you pull up a chair wherever if you want to eat more than a sandwich.”

Aaron Ayscough (2010) “The real attractions are the sandwiches, as long as you don’t mind a line at peak hours, or the various heavy meat dishes, as long are you are in fine health and not at all claustrophic or easily offended. (Being seated is often reminiscent of trench warfare; the service is on the sunny side of ferocious.)”

Figaroscope (2010) “…un authentique jambon-beurre, tellement parisien. Le meilleur et le plus croustillant s’emporte justement à deux pas de l’Opéra, au Petit Vendôme.”

Le Fooding (2010) “…toujours curieux à l’heure du déjeuner, avec, en vitrine, ses créatures de synthèse et, au comptoir, ses chemises d’homme auréolées sous les aisselles, mordant dans leur « rapid-croûte », au jambon d’Auvergne, aux fritons, au tripoux de Naucelles ou à l’andouille…”

Rosa Jackson (2008) “those with heartier appetites squeeze into the dining room and order a hefty steak or pungent andouillette with piping-hot frites…(be warned that sandwiches are not served at the tables). Even the rough house Gamay goes down easily in this no-nonsense setting…”

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Pink Flamingo pizzeria in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Pink Flamingo

“Pas comme les autres,” is the motto at kitschy cool Pink Flamingo Pizza. Take-out and delivery available at all locations.

Practical information

Address: 67 rue Bichat, 75010
Nearest transport: Jacques Bonsergent (5)
Hours: Closed Monday
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 42 02 31 70
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Italian & pizza
Website

Additional locations

Address: 105 rue Vieille du Temple, 75003
Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 42 71 28 20

Address: 23 rue d’Aligre, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Closed Monday
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 43 43 47 07

Address: 30 rue Muller, 75018
Nearest transport: Chateau Rouge
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 42 23 14 07

Reviews of interest

Meg Zimbeck (2010) “…cheap and fun…a brilliant option when there’s a large group (or one of indeterminate size), including people who are otherwise difficult to accommodate: parents with kids, vegetarians, friends with no money…”

Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2010) “Des spécimens de galette décalés, potaches et, une fois sur deux, plutôt convaincants.”

Meg Zimbeck via Budget Travel (2009) “Kooky names and inventive combos are part of the program at the Pink…Whatever the topping, you can be assured of a thin crust made with organic flour and sel de Guérande.”

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Lengué

An Izakaya joint, serving small plates, Japanese beer and cocktails, in the heart of the touristville.

Practical information

Address: 31 rue de la Parcheminerie, 75005
Nearest transport: Cluny-La Sorbonne (10)
Hours: Dinner, Tuesday-Sunday; closed Monday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 46 33 75 10
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Japanese
Special attributes: small plates, open Sunday, vegetarian options

Reviews of interest

Ann Mah (2011) “a convivial place to share a meal with friends, to sip a cocktail (or two) and order (and reorder) a series of small, bright, salty bites…”

François Simon (2011) “C’est tout nouveau et délicieux. une izakaya en plein coeur de la Huchette, c’est à peine croyable…Petits plats adorables: girolles sautées à la sauce soja et beurre, palourdes au saké, poulpes sautés à l’ail, encornets grillés, porc mariné au gingembre…”

Caroline Mignot (2011) “Assurément le succès du dîner (on en a recommandé en cours de route), les aubergines au bouillon…Une chair terriblement soyeuse qui nous a douté un bon moment sur la cuisson du légume, vapeur, grill…Vrai coup de coeur perso!”

 

 

 

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l'Arpège by Meg Zimbeck

L’Arpège

Alain Passard spins turnips into gold at this vegecentric (but not vegetarian) three star restaurant.

An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 84 rue de Varenne, 75007
Nearest transport: Varenne (13)
Hours: Closed Sunday, Closed Saturday
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 47 05 09 06
Website
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, prestige ingredients, haute cuisine, superior wine list, exceptional desserts, renowned chef, vegetarian options, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Patricia Wells (2011) “A big disappointment, once again. We sampled the 120 euro garden luncheon, and Passard turns out to be a real Johnny one note in the potager…course after monotonous, unimaginative course turned out a little more than I could bear of carrots, beets, turnips, onions. Dish after dish I kept waiting for Passard to finish the sentence. But he never did.”

François Simon (2010) “…Passard…cultive lui-même ses légumes non loin de Paris, travaille le thème dans tous les sens, son restaurant est sans doute l’un des meilleurs observatoires sur le thème.”

Sophie Brissaud (2009) “…le poème végétal d’Alain Passard s’élève désormais avec une délicatesse infinie, une maîtrise arrivée au stade du jeu permanent.”

Ulterior Epicure (2009) “…Rarely does a chef cook vegetables well. Even scarcer is a chef who can cook vegetables well AND do something interesting with them…Passard does both, and more.”

Food Snob (2009) “…there is Passard’s panache and flair, his creative and culinary genius to contend with. This is most keenly felt via his valuable vegetables.”

 

 

 

 

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Lily Wang by Alexander Lobrano

Lily Wang

The arrival of the bill may preclude any happy endings at this bordello-like Chinese address in the 7th.

Practical information

Address: 40 avenue Duquesne, 75007
Nearest transport: Saint-François-Xavier (13)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 53 86 09 09
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 50-99€
Style of cuisine: Chinese
Special attributes: outdoor dining, open Sunday, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Patricia Wells (2011) “Alas, 168 euros poorer and barely sated, we left wondering what this place was all about. Food no better than any Parisian Vietnamese carryout. Rubbery pork dumplings, dipping sauces that tasted like ketchup, tasteless shrimp…”

Alexander Lobrano (2011) “Thick velvet curtains…Hoi An style silk lanterns, floral murals and low softly lit tables was attractive….Main courses were excellent…I loved my Iberian pluma (pork tenderloin) marinated in fish sauce, lacquered in spice…Pity it’s so expensive, or I’d likely go back often.”

Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2011) “…les fantasmes d’une Chine glamour. Décor tamisé tendance Lotus bleu (sans Tintin, Chang et l’opium) et nourritures « exochic » bravement cosmétiques.”

François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2011) “A chaque clin d’oeil de Lily, ça fait bling-bling. C’est In the mood for Love version Saint-Trop’…La meilleure entrée ? Ces Shangaï jian jiao, des raviolis de porc frits…dont le secret fait toute la différence : ils sont garnis de saucisse de morteau…”

 

 

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Desvouges via restaurantdesvouges.fr

Desvouges

This neighborhood bistro, run by a former journalist who always dreamed of having a restaurant. Three courses, 26€.

Practical information

Address: 6 rue des Fossés Saint Marcel, 75005
Nearest transport: Censier-Daubenton (7) or Saint-Marcel (5)
Hours: Closed Saturday-Sunday, Closed Monday dinner, Closed Tuesday dinner
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 47 07 91 25
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes: open Monday

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2011) “…looks like a 1950’s bistro (a look I really like, BTW) but the menu has a Toulousian/Southwestern tilt…The entree of day was a croustillant of piggy footems (it was all one might ask of such); but the overwhelming number of other regular choices were hard and soft, cold and hot sausages and charcuteries…”

Alexander Lobrano (2010) “…steak tartare dressed with sun-dried tomatoes, capers and herbs…was terrific, while I went with the curiously named Nem Toulousain, a skinned pork sausage boosted with fresh thyme and rosemary and wrapped Nem-style in crispy pastry…I loved the ratatouille that came in a small Staub casserole…a great address for a very good, relaxed, affordable French meal.”

Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2010) “…une bonne surprise de bistrot, mélange de candeur et de canaille…”

 

 

 

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L'Instant d'Or via linstantdor.com

L’Instant d’Or

What started as modern haute cuisine in the Golden Triangle has relaxed into a sort of posh neo-brasserie.

Practical information

Address: 36 avenue George V, 75008
Nearest transport: George V (1)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, Tuesday-Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 47 23 46 78
Average price for lunch€60-100
Average price for dinner€60-100
Style of cuisine: modern French
Special attributes: valet parking

Reviews of interest

Emmanuel Rubin (2014) “Changement de toque et valse complète de la carte qui en finit avec la cuisine de pointe pour lui préférer un style «néo-brasserie» bien sous tous rapports.”

Thierry Richard (2012) “Deux coups de cœurs à table : Bar de ligne en carpaccio avec crème d’huîtres et caviar de France (d’une fraîcheur émouvante dans sa décoration florale) et Spaghettis maison à l’encre de seiche et homard bleu…si vous voulez parler contrats ou séduire une belle des beaux quartiers, pas d’hésitation, cette adresse est faite pour vous.”

Alexander Lobrano (2012) “I was impressed by the humbleness of Duka’s technical skills–he’s a remarkably good cook but he doesn’t show off. Instead, he let’s his produce star…though it’s far from being cheap, L’Instant d’Or is actually a very good buy. Why? You’re getting intelligently original modern French haute cuisine for half the price of what you’d spend elsewhere in the neighborhood, and the tongue-in-cheek art-gallery decors of the three very differently decorated dining room proposed very different settings as well.”

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2012) “Un chef de discrétion, des assiettes soignant l’allure, des appellations disposant la truffe et le homard, une cave ne se compliquant pas plus l’existence qu’à déléguer grands bordeaux et jolis bourgognes et, au final, ce sentiment d’une maison qui s’habille le soir.”


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Bourgogne Sud via bourgogne-sud.fr

Bourgogne Sud

A regional table serving up Burgundian classics like jambon persillé, frog’s legs, escargots, and boeuf bourguignon.

Practical information

Address: 14 rue de Clichy, 75009
Nearest transport: Liège (13) or Trinité (12)
Hours: Monday-Friday, lunch and dinner; Saturday, dinner only; closed Sunday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 48 74 51 27
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Special attributes: open Monday

Review of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2011) “…even though the cooking lacks precision, it’s still solidly good, and this is a recommendable if rather plain address for anyone looking for a Burgundian feed in the heart of Paris.”

John Talbott (2011) “The prices are also right… a huge selection of white & red Burgundies by the glass…”

Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2011) “Jambon persillé : bien en chair et pas trop acide. Cuisses de grenouilles des Dombes : tout en cuisses et joliment relevées. Soufflé glacé : à clouer n’importe quel bec!”

 

 

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Sea Urchin at Agapé Substance

Agapé Substance – NOW CLOSED

NOW CLOSED. Chef David Toutain made a name for this restaurant but then abruptly left the restaurant in December 2012 along with most of the kitchen staff. The restaurant closed during the summer of 2014.

Address: 66 rue Mazarine, 75006

Reviews of interest

The reviews below date from the time when chef David Toutain was at Agape Substance. We collected no reviews after his departure. The restaurant is now closed.

François Simon (2011) “…une belle démonstration en élipses savoureuses. Diner aux petits oignons, nickel et épurée devant une clientèle en aspiration studieuse.”

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2011) “…chaque assiette se révèle ultracomposée dans les textures, les harmoniques et les cuissons. Les unes remarquables, culottées, précieuses. Les autres accessoires, pédantes, limite cabotines.”

Caroline Mignot (2011) “Sincèrement, je suis sortie enthousiasmée par ces découvertes, ce lieu différent et cette autre façon de montrer la cuisine…39 € ma formule, j’étais comblée…mais attention aux à-côtés qui dépassent l’entendement côté prix…”

John Talbott (2011) “…one can expect nothing (forget the critics’ descriptions, this 30 yo genius changes stuff all the time)… expect stuff you’ve never heard of before…Go?  Wow….wow….wow….wow!”

Alexander Lobrano (2011) “…a decidedly Asian aesthetic in terms of the way the food is presented; a starring role for vegetables and fresh herbs and shoots, including many obscure ones; tables d’hotes serving with stool seating…From our first amuse bouche, though, I knew that we were in for a fascinating meal.”

Patricia Wells (2011) “Think explosions of concentrated flavors, gorgeous food, pristine ingredients, and toss in a friendly, easy atmosphere for good measure…”

Thierry Richard (2011) “…la cuisine de celui que certains considèrent comme un jeune prodige de 30 ans, elle oscille entre l’inopportun et le magnifique… Au bilan des ratages : l’amuse-bouche (Yuzu en trois textures et dentelle de riz, superbe mais atone, sans la moindre percussion) et le Tourteau (servi en minuscules bouchées accompagnées d’un bouillon et d’agrumes, trop evanescent pour laisser une quelconque empreinte). Mais quand la rencontre se fait, c’est le bonheur.”

Gilles Pudlowski (2011) “Un chef avec des ailes, du grain de génie, le sens du produit, de la cuisson juste, du mariage de saveurs exactes….une cuisine de cueillette, de l’instant, d’inspiration, d’idées.

Bruno Verjus (2011) “…la cuisine joue l’inattendu et la mesure. La carte énonce sans dire : girolles, oeuf, cabillaud, veau, courgette, chocolat, carotte, pigeon. Une nomination pour une maîtrise extrême des produits, des cuissons, des températures, des goûts, des textures… Attention, génie chez ce chef de 30 ans…”

 

 

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Chicken consommé with foie gras and wild mushrooms at Vivant Table in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Vivant Table

Pierre Jancou has relaunched Vivant Table with chef Sota (ex-Troisgros, Robuchon, Stella Maris & Toyo) at the helm and more ambitious menus at 29/39€ at lunch and 55€ at dinner. There’s also a carte blanch menu with 7-8 dishes (no choice). The wine remains all-natural, but the cooking is better than ever. Update: Jancou sold Vivant Table and Vivant Cave in December 2013 to the owners of Racines.

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Les 110 de Taillevent

Taillevent has reconceived  their second restaurant (formerly L’Angle du Faubourg) with a focus on wine pairings. There is a 44€ menu at lunch and dinner, but à la carte prices will put you in the 50-100€ range, before le vin.

Practical information

Address: 195 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008
Nearest transport: Ternes (2)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, every day
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 40 74 20 20
Website
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 50-100€
Style of cuisine: classic French
Special attributes: superior wine list, open Sunday, open Monday

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2013) “Very nice…a place to send American friends to.”

Alexander Lobrano (2012) “…good quality produce prepared with admirable professional precision but no noticeable signature, a point-blank absence of creativity, and a deflating lack of generosity…Never once, however, did the truly charmless sommelier engage with me or anyone else at the table about what we were drinking…”

Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2012) “…une centaine de crus au verre se dispose selon affinités autour de nourritures citadines…Le tourteau aneth et fenouil: rafraichissant…Le vol-au-vent à la financière: comme une 3D gourmande… Le beignet au chocolat coulant: délicieuse vacherie…”

 

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Braisenville

Small plates rule at this mod address in the 9th.

Practical information

Address: 36 rue Condorcet, 75009
Nearest transport: Anvers (2)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, Monday-Friday; Saturday, dinner only; closed Sunday
Reservations: last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 09 50 91 21 74
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: small plates, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Caroline Mignot (2012) “Formule à 16 € (entrée-plat ou plat-dessert) et 19 € les trois. Des portions peut-être pas pantagruelliques, ce qui est bien aussi pour sortir l’esprit et le corps légers…”

 

 

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L'Epi Dupin via www.epidupin.com

L’Epi Dupin

L’Epi Dupin has been attracting a mix of loyal locals and tourists since it opened in 1995.

Practical information

Address: 11 rue Dupin, 75006
Nearest transport: Sevres-Babylone (10, 12)
Hours: Dinner, Monday-Friday; lunch, Tuesday-Friday; closed Saturday and Sunday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually O.K.
Telephone: 01 42 22 64 56
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: market-based cooking, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Caroline Mignot (2009) “L’ardoise arrive, pas une suggestion qui ne fasse pas envie…Crevettes à peine saisies, au coeur encore fondant et “rosé”, enrobées de quelques grains de sésame…Velouté de Saint-Jacques incroyablement lisse…Le dessert parle de lui-même…”

 

 

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4834922541_8908f0629a

Spring Restaurant

American chef Daniel Rose offers a menu that changes with the seasons, and his whim. A very tough reservation.

An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 6 rue Bailleul, 75001
Nearest transport: Louvre-Rivoli (1)
Hours: Lunch, Wednesday-Friday; Dinner, Tuesday-Saturday; Closed Sunday and Monday.
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance (lunch reservations can be made online)
Telephone: 01 45 96 05 72
Website
Average price for lunch: 35-49€ (menu 44€)
Average price for dinner: 50-100€ (menu 76€)
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: open kitchen, excellent wine selection, market cooking, celebrity chef

Reviews of interest

Sophie Brissaud (2012) “…à mon avis un des rares restaurants où le travail sur la tradition culinaire française s’accompagne d’une véritable approche d’investigation, de recherche…Ici, à Spring, on est toujours conscient du caractère mouvant, tourbillonnant de l’inspiration culinaire, que l’on fait partager au client d’une façon unique, à laquelle je ne connais aucun équivalent.”

The New York Times (2011) “The multicourse menu — ours included seven — was an impressive journey through the early-winter market: poached sea bass served room temperature with a snappy vinaigrette, oysters and a cap of frizzled leeks; silky veal “candy” cooked sous-vide and sweetened with butter-poached heirloom beets; rich and crispy shredded veal breast confit, cut with orange.”

Chroniques du Plaisir (2010) “On sait où se trouve la priorité ici : dans la cuisine. Celle qui nous régale et nous étonne par sa simplicité et ses audaces modestes. Une de mes adresses préférées à Paris. Courez-y!”

Bruno Verjus (2010) “24 couverts cosmopolites offrent une salle concentrée et attentive aux gestes des Chefs. Le plaisir s’offre depuis la cuisine, scène ouverte aux clients spectateurs. Le pas à pas de l’élaboration des assiettes construit l’imaginaire de leur dégustation.”

David Lebovitz (2010) “Finally came dessert, which started with bowls of raspberries, with the gentle dampness of berries that have been just-picked, floating in a light peach tea with unsweetened cocoa nibs bobbing in the broth, which provided not-too-sweet transition to dessert.”

Meg Zimbeck for BlackBook (2010) “Nearly all of the hooks that comprised Rose’s story have changed within the last three years. The underdog who cooked alone and undercharged for every plate has grown into the Hot Chef who manages a team and sometimes speaks in terms of branding.”

Barbra Austin (2010) “What’s refreshing is that Josh is not afraid to include wines from beyond the Hexagon.  International selections are difficult to find in chauvinist France, and it’s a joy for this lover of aromatic whites to see German and Austrian bottles holding court with their Alsatian cousins.  I can’t wait for the wine bar to open on the lower level.”

Mr. Lung (2010) “Dish-side, Daniel Rose’s cuisine has always been very emotional, and it is not surprising that some of his feelings find their way to the table. There is now some restlessness, hesitations and even a sense of aggravation that were never palpable at the first Spring or in the lasts months of Table 28. But do not think that the food is bad.  His major qualities are still there: sensitivity, the mastery in roasting, the accuracy of each dish… Yet it is obvious that the team has settled in the new venue and needs to find their marks.”

Alexander Lobrano (2010) “Our lunch as privileged guineau pigs was sensational. Rose plans to build his lunch menu around bouillon with different garnishes… the best bouillon I’ve ever had in my life–deep, ruddy, potent and profoundly soothing, with grilled chicken and tiny vegetables. Desserts were superb, too…”

John Talbott (2010) “It was the most interesting and fascinating food experience I think I’ve ever had… The concept for lunch: a fixed price bouillon of the day with chicken, although pigeon could be substituted, and veggies; and a selection of something like 10 small plates, which depending on whether you were on the fly or siitting down to an extended repast, could be served family/Asian style or one by one, in portions that will probably serve two persons.”

 

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Au Comptoir de Brice via Facebook

Au Comptoir de Brice

After success on Top Chef, and with a grant from the city of Paris (for “alimentary encouragement”), Brice Morvent opened this counter-service resto in the marché Saint Martin, serving unfussy contemporary cooking.

Practical information

Address: 31-33 rue Chateau d’Eau (in the covered Marché Saint Martin), 75010
Nearest transport: Jacques Bonsergent (5)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, noon-6 p.m.; Sunday, 10:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; closed Monday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 07 87 36 77 38
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: n/a
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: decent brunch, open Sunday

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La Table d’Aki

L’Ambroisie vet Akihiro Horikoshi does everything at this 16-seat jewel box in the 7th.

Practical information

Address: 49 rue Vaneau, 75007
Nearest transport: Vaneau (10)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, Tuesday-Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 45 44 43 48
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 50-99€
Style of cuisine: Modern French

Reviews of interest

Patricia Wells (2014) “Subtle, streamlined, and honest… a singular style of cuisine, offering dishes that both satisfy and surprise, amaze with their freshness, and always make us feel special to be one of the lucky few to secure a table at the 16-seat restaurant. ”

John Talbott (2012) “The carte is minimalist as well, one entree of the day, two mains and one dessert…all dishes and sauces and veggies were magnificent.”

Patricia Wells (2012) “The spotless, tiny restaurant is bathed in light and white from head to toe…His food, too – pure, simple, and sensational in an understated way  – is white…”

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2012) “Un repas du côté de chez lui?  Trois plats de bonheur simple servis d’une main leste  qui s’en retourne soudain au coin des fourneaux.  La salle est blanche, le climat délicieusement mutique,  les assiettes offrent le frisson…”

Bruno Verjus (2012) “La juste perfection d’un gros ravioli de langoustines, ventripotent. Une chair de soie, glacée comme un soulier, d’un jus corsé de carapaces de langoustines. L’ultime du ravioli, un chant au palais, une tessiture à vous donner le frisson, tant les notes de ce plat sont justes et denses. Sans doute le meilleur rapport qualité/prix au monde. Ce plat pourrait faire pâlir la plupart des restaurants 3 étoiles. La perfection je vous le dit.”

Thierry Richard (2012) “Dans l’assiette, du beau néo-classique affiné par plus de vingt ans passés à l’Ambroisie…« Galette de maquereau », aux saveurs puissantes, nettes et à la texture délicate, « Filet de lieu jaune poêlé, quenelles de tapenades aux deux olives » superbement cuit, nacré, d’une simplicité et d’une justesse épatante, « Tarte aux poires » un ton en dessous. De la simplicité tirée au cordeau comme une chemise de tailleur au tombé impeccable.”

 

 

 

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Racines 2

Now open: Racines, version 2.0, featuring the same product-driven cooking as the original, in a Philippe Starck-designed space.

Practical information

Address: 39 rue de l’Arbre Sec, 75001
Nearest transport: Louvre-Rivoli (1) or Les Halles (4)
Hours: Open for lunch & dinner Monday-Friday plus Saturday dinner; closed Saturday lunch & all day Sunday
Reservations: book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 42 60 77 34
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 50-100€
Style of cuisine: classic French
Special attributes: prestige ingredients, open Monday

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2012) “The ‘menu’ is a very reasonable 29 E for 3 courses, but a la carte we’re dealing with double that, and that’s before liquids.  But I rather liked the ‘menu’…a perfectly cooked duck breast with a ton of vegetables…a chocolate mousse…All were much above average…”

Thierry Richard (2012) “La cuisine y est dans le droit fil de ce qui avait fait le succès de son jumeau : des produits de belle extraction, à peine transformés, soigneusement assaisonnés et aux cuissons toujours millimétrées. Mais il y a là un je ne sais quoi en plus qui fait claquer les doigts…”

Alexander Lobrano (2011) “this restaurant feels very out of place in the rue de l’Arbre Sec…more alarming than the decor or the crowd, however, was the menu. For starters, it was short and difficult, because not only was it rather unappealing, it was also very expensive…if I want to spend 70 Euros on a meal, I can think of a lot of much better places to do so than Racines 2.”

François Simon – Le Figaro (2011) “Voilà des plats travaillant a minima, juste dans le souffle et l’élan…Attention, Racines 2 ne fait pas de la grande cuisine, juste une cuisine de produit, laissant passer celui-ci comme la muleta du torero. Certains risquent d’être déçus et je les entends d’ici : “Ah, ce n’est que ça ?!” Réponse: ce n’est que cela.”

Le Figaro (2011) “…cuisine toujours ciselée, nourrie aux beaux produits…généreuses terrines, salade, comme un tableau, de racines croquantes et arc-en-ciel de l’incontournable Annie Bertin, tendre côte de cochon, fondante tarte au citron…”

Emmanuel Rubin – Le Figaro (2011)”…un bon spécimen de bistrot urbain nouveau…repas bien découplé entre petits plats de spontanéité et vins nature…Vitello tonnato : tranché un peu trop charnu mais plaisant. Poitrine de cochon, cocos de Paimpol et jus de cresson : beau gras bien relancé par des cocos bien en verve…”

 

 

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Krishna Bhavan by Barbra Austin

Krishna Bhavan

The vegetarian Tamil cooking at Krishna Bhavan is generous, aromatic, colorful, and cheap. Open every day from 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Practical information

Address: 24 rue Cail, 75010
Nearest transport: La Chapelle (2)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Reservations not necessary
Telephone: 01 42 05 78 43
Website
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Indian/Sri Lankan
Special attributes: vegetarian options, good for solo dining, continuous all-day service, open Sunday, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Barbra Austin – Girls’ Guide to Paris (2011)”…perfect for vegetarians, the budget conscious and anyone craving Indian food or just looking to get off the beaten central Paris path.”

Le Fooding (2010) “Le régime maison? Sans viande et sans alcool. Le must : l’assiette composite Thaali (8 €) aux six légumes, servie avec du riz, et un dessert au yaourt.”

 

 

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Our Guide to Normandy

Normandy-Cow

Activities for Food Lovers

Musée de Camembert (in Vimoutiers)

Delicious Normandy Food Tours (in Bayeux)

Restaurants

Le Vauban (in Port-en-Bessin-Huppain)

Auberge le Clos Saint Julien (in Saint-Julien-sur-Calonne)

Manoir de la Drôme (in Balleroy)

Restaurant La Sapinière (in Saint-Laurent-sur-Mer)

La Rotonde (in Port-en-Bessin-Huppain)

Cheese & Dairy

La Fromagerie Graindorge (in Livarot)

Coopérative Isigny Sainte-Mère (in Isigny-sur-Mer)

La Fromagerie de Bayeux (in Bayeux)

Wine & Cider

Cave Cidricole Lecornu (in Bayeux)

La Ferme de la Sapinière (in Saint-Laurent-sur-Mer)

Le Volet Qui Penche (in Bayeux)

Markets

Saturday Market in Bayeux

Sweets

Biscuiterie Les Sablés d’Asnelles (in Asnelles-sur-Mer)

Pâtisserie la Reine Mathilde (in Bayeux)

 

 

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Youpi et Voila by Phyllis Flick

The latest and greatest Paris openings

 

2012 has already been a busy year on the Paris restaurant scene. Here’s a selection of noteworthy newcomers. Click on the restaurant name for practical details and more reviews.

Youpi et Voilà Fans of Septime and Saturne will probably like Patrice Gelbart’s seasonal cooking, characterized by “generous amounts of fresh herbs and plants with a mix of textures and flavors,” says Phyllis Flick.  “There are no heavy sauces, and little fat. Just clean bright flavors.”

Au Conservatoire Cédric Casanova has opened a Sicilian épicerie next to his La Tête Dans Les Olives, with a single table d’hôte for 5-8 people that is probably already booked solid for the next ten years. The “picnic” runs 30€/person and features products from the shop, which you will no doubt want to purchase after the meal.

Big Fernand The burgers here are well-seared and juicy, the fries crisp, the staff look like they’re starring in a hipster production of Newsies. Food truck? What food truck?

Terroir Parisien Yannick Alleno of Le Meurice brings his locavore act to the Left Bank at this airy, open-every-day spot, resuscitating the Parisian repertoire with Ile de France ingredients. Dine in on frisée salad, onion soup, and Verot charcuterie, or get a classic sandwich jambon et beurre to go.

Arola Early reviews are mixed for this Spanish import, a small-plates set up from Michelin-star collector Sergi Arola, housed in the new W Hotel. Alexander Lobrano says, “the Pica Pica format [Arola's term for small plates] is fun when you’re on a large sunny terrace with the Mediterranean in the distance but is distinctly less satisfying in a low-ceilinged dining room with handsome formal 19th century French moldings.” Claro que si.

Semilla There’s a M.O.F in the (flameless) open kitchen at this new address from everyone’s favorite Anglo restaurateurs Juan Sanchez and Drew Harré, of Fish, Cosi, and wine shop La Dernière Goutte. Patricia Wells says it’s “carefully designed for the way we want to eat today…a nice mix of little and large tastes for vegetarians, meat eaters, lovers of the classics as well as the adventurous…”

La Table d’Aki Akihiro Horikoshi — a L’Ambroisie vet — is both chef and waiter at his new, intimate 16-seater in the 7th, where he’s cooking a modern, refined menu that Bruno Verjus declares “the best value for the money in the world.” THE WORLD.

 

 

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Kei restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Kei

After working for Ducasse for seven years, Kei Kobayashi has opened an eponymous restaurant in the old Gerard Besson space, offering four or five courses at lunch (38/48€) and six or eight (75/95€) at dinner.

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Our Guide to Wild Game in Paris

Our Guide to Game Season in Paris

Game season is a special time in Paris restaurants, with gibier à plumes (wild birds) arriving in late Autumn and gibier à poils (hare, boar or deer) turning up in the early winter. For those who aren’t quite sure how to play the game, we’ve compiled some resources to help guide you through the forest of options:

 

 

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Le Floréal via lefloreal.fr

Le Floréal

Le Floréal via lefloreal.fr
This mod neighborhood café and brasserie serves fruits de mer, plats du jour, big salads, and a reputedly decent burger. Oh, and le brunch.

Practical information

Address: 73 rue du Faubourg du Temple, 75010
Nearest transport: Goncourt (11)
Hours: Open every day, all day
Reservations: not necessary
Telephone: 01 42 08 81 03
Website

View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: French, brasserie
Special attributes: vegetarian options, open Sunday, open Monday
Type of crowd: neighborhood locals, hipsters, bobos
Interior: polished & modern
Atmosphere: casual

Reviews of interest

  • François-Régis Gaudry (2011) “….céleri rémoulade et Cobb salad, Cheese burger et plateau de fruits de mer, cheese cake et poire Belle Hélène. Menilmontant et Manhattan, même combat….Floréal aurait droit à un truc du genre : « A des facilités et beaucoup d’imagination, mais ne les exploitent pas jusqu’au bout. Peut mieux faire… »”
  • Gilles Pudlowski (2011) “Les gens du quartier, branchés ou débranchés, en terrasse, les bobos curieux à l’intérieur. La maison fait rendez-vous en continue, table aimable….Mais le lieu a des prétentions gourmandes…et tout n’est pas parfait, loin de là…”
  • Phyllis Flick (2011) “The bun was homemade, as were the fries, making it one of the best burgers I’ve had in Paris…This is probably also the only place in Paris where I’ve ever overheard a table of chic looking Parisians order hot-dogs for dinner.”
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Le 21

Book in advance for a table in this discreet enclave in the 6th, where chef Paul Minchelli continues to cook some of the most delicate and exquisite seafood in town.

Practical information

Address: 21 rue Mazarine, 75006
Nearest transport: Odéon (4, 10)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, Tuesday-Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: book a week or so in advance
Telephone: 01 46 33 76 90
Average price for lunch: 50-100€
Average price for dinner: 50-100€
Style of cuisine: French, seafood
Special attributes: standout seafood

Reviews of interest

Bruno Verjus (2012) “Fréquenté par quelques palais remarquables, la table de Mr Paul (Minchelli) fait dans le simple. L’excellence des produits, l’ultime du poisson et puis rien d’autre qu’un tour de main et un savoir-faire hors du commun…une table essentielle.”

Figaroscope (2009) “Le hareng cousu main est la référence absolue en la ­matière, les céteaux friture sont dorés et croquants et le généreux lieu jaune à l’aïoli est cuit le plus simplement du monde mais à la seconde près.”

Figaroscope (2007) “…l’ardoise du jour propose habituellement le choix entre seulement trois ou quatre poissons. Bien sûr, cela lui permet de ne travailler chaque jour que les plus beaux spécimens…”

 

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