We asked our contributors for the addresses they would recommend when you can’t get into Frenchie (or don’t even want to try). Here’s what they said.
Taste: Escabeche of rouget with white asparagus and mâche
Restaurant: Rino
Photo: Barbra Austin
More: Taste of Paris photo series
The vast majority of Paris restaurants will be closed through January 2 (see our calendar of closures here), but a few will be open to help you celebrate the New Year. There are no bargains at this time of year, but we’ve broken down your options, most ranging from 90€ to (gasp!) 940€, and we’ve selected our top picks for Christmas Eve and Christmas Day.
- François Simon visits the pampered principality of Neuilly (a western suburb of Paris) to slay Le Chambord – a stuck-in-time bistro serving stringy foie gras and a less-than-fresh dessert. If these are the strawberries du jour, he says, then this must be a day without end…[Simon Says!]
- Talbott also makes the trek to Neuilly (what’s going on here?) to visit La Table des Oliviers and laments the langoustines which are ”but a sad shadow” of those he’s enjoyed elsewhere. Sweetbreads follow, and these are over-cooked, bordering on dessicated.” He concludes, after some “pathetic excuses for canneles,” that there is “no way either of us will return.” [John Talbott's Paris]
- Following in the footsteps of Le Chateaubriand, Frenchie and Spring, the restaurant Rino will soon be dropping lunch and serving only in the evening.
- The Figaro publishes its favorite fresh-picked desserts of the season, including a plate of wild strawberries served with whipped cream at Le Mini Palais, strawberries and sorbet at Le Pantruche, and the raspberry tart from La Pâtisserie des Rêves (of which I have already devoured three). [Le Figaro]
Happy Plates
- “Bravo,” says Bruno to Septime chef Bertrand Grébaut, whose “lively and exciting plates mobilize the senses as soon as they’re put on the table.” [Food Intelligence] Emmanuel Rubin two-hearts Grébaut’s “readable, minimally worded” style, based on “the nature of the product,” and predicts it will only get better after the hype passes, and the “room is rid of posers.” [Figaroscope]
Giovanni Passerini’s modern market cooking at Rino reflects his Mediterranean heritage and, to no small degree, his experience working for Petter NIlsson at nearby La Gazzetta.
Upcoming Food Tours
Taste of Paris
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Cherry tomato salad
22 May 2012
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Cherry tomato salad
(Delicious) Things to Do
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Paris Food & Wine Events
1 May 2012
Le Fooding’s Veillées Foodstock festival and another stellar (and free!) wine tasting at Caves Augé.
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Paris Food & Wine Events
