- Christian Etchebest has sold Le Troquet and will be opening something new soon. He’s still running La Cantine du-said-Troquet, however.
- A great meal at the “small, generous and very happy” bistro L’Atelier d’Antan confirms Lobrano’s “hunch that the creativity bear that seems to be haunting chefs all over Europe these days really needs to be heeled. Media wants New! New! New!, but sometimes, even many times, old is much better as long as it’s seriously, sincerely good.” [Alexander Lobrano]
- What do we think Thierry Richard likes most about bobo canteen “par excellence,” Nanashi? Is it the bento boxes, “as crafty as they are delicious,” the “diabolical” carrot cake, or the waitress with “sparkling gray eyes and light skirt undulating above her ballerina flats”? [Chroniques du Plaisir]
- “A Saturday night cuisine, neo-conformist, a little coquettish,” says Emmanuel Rubin in his two-heart review of newcomer Le Tintilou, praising the “delicate” date and onion ravioli, scallops with cocoa and chorizo, and a “ravishing” dessert of rhubarb
raand crisp meringue. [Figaroscope]
Gilles Pudlowski names his Best of the Year (everything from chefs to cheesemongers), Emmanuel Rubin finds melancholy and silence at Le Grand B, two more critics sing the praises of Le Pantruche, and Alec Lobrano samples the pleasure-giving art of dim sum at Yoom.
Sadaharu Aoki combines French techniques and Japanese flavors, which means that this is where to go if you like your macarons and éclairs made with matcha and black sesame.
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A Year in the Mouth
