In what will come as a surprise to no one, looks matter in a Costes establishment. According to accounts collected by Le Canard enchaîné and republished by Le Monde, servers are required to be young and to dress sexy. One former waitress recounts being told that they couldn’t see enough of her chest.
Customers, too, are seated according to whether they are “beau” (prime table) or “pas beau” (in the corner!).
Costes establishments include Georges (atop the Pompidou Center), Hôtel Costes, Hôtel Amour, Café Francais, Brasserie Thoumieux, and Café Marly, among others.