Alice Feiring explains how deep kissing factors into the natural wine movement, François Chidaine blasts InterLoire, Lettie Teague and Aaron Ayscough praise some local wine lists, and Paris gets its first Tiki Bar.
It is impossible to overstate the fervor with which the second coming of Daniel Rose’s Spring was anticipated. Faithful fans and the soon-to-be-converted are all hoping to be saved by a meal here. The menu changes constantly, according to the season and D-Rose’s whim. Update September 2011 - Now serving lunch on Wednesday & Friday, in addition to dinner Tuesday through Saturday.
It’s that time of year again: time for us to appreciate the variety and beauty of wild animals… with our mouths. Time to taste of the bunny, the bambi, the boar, and the buckshot. Bite down carefully, and bite here, at the following selection of game-savvy restaurants preferred by our gang of contributing advisors.
- Sophie Brissaud shoots her food…
- John Talbott revisits some favorites…
- Gilles Pudlowski is pleasantly jarred…
- Spring is now accepting online bookings for lunch…
- Dorie Greenspan is going digital, too…
Gail Simmons recently returned to Paris for the first time in a decade and (helped in part by your Twitter suggestions) ate her way through the city. She named the sweetbreads at Spring and Frenchie’s cod with smoked eggplant as two of her favorite Paris tastes. But what else did she put in her mouth?
- Daniel Rose, in the second installment of a rather candid interview, admits that Spring cost €1.4 million to open but he’s earning only €1800 per month, that the restaurant is “fragile,” and that’s he’s close to burnt out. Anyone attending Spring’s lobster sandwich picnic on Saturday afternoon is encouraged to give this poor bastard a hug. [Eater]
- Aaron is crushing on ”Le Petit Têtu,” a white Burgundy from Jean-Marie Berrux that he recently rediscovered at Le Garde Robe. “It’s a crisp, coiled Chardonnay, replete with whipcrack acidity and bedrock mineral. Which is to say its a fair ringer for actual Puligny-Montrachet, at a fraction of the price.” [Not Drinking Poison in Paris]
- Spring will be having a “lobster sandwich picnic” on Saturday, July 23, from noon to 6 p.m. You’ll need to reserve your sandwich in advance, but seating will be communal, with drinks available at both the resto and the boutique. [Spring Paris]
- Talbott makes a second trip to L’Antre Amis, where he is not zapped quite as forcefully as the last time but still finds a slow-cooked egg with mushrooms and asparagus “the cat’s meow,” and a lemon tartelette “just wonderful!”. [John Talbott's Paris]
- Spring Restaurant is no longer serving lunch, except on Fridays. In place of lunch, the restaurant is adding a second seating for the tasting menu at dinner. In addition, the cellar – with the exception of four stools – is no longer being used as a wine bar. According to Josh Adler, ”we are serving the menu spring upstairs and downstairs by reservation now starting at 7 pm. The high seats at the bar are still available with no reservation for cheese, wine, and charcuterie, but there are only a few of them. We are encouraging more walk-ins to come early and/or later, and while we can’t guarantee seats, we can often find a place.”
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A Year in the Mouth





