It is impossible to overstate the fervor with which the second coming of Daniel Rose’s Spring was anticipated. Faithful fans and the soon-to-be-converted are all hoping to be saved by a meal here. The menu changes constantly, according to the season and D-Rose’s whim. Update September 2011 - Now serving lunch on Wednesday & Friday, in addition to dinner Tuesday through Saturday.
A small wine bar near the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont specializing in natural wines and simple, affordable food.
Ingredient fetishists will appreciate Sven Chartier’s reverence for product, and devotees of natural wines will love Ewan Lemoigne’s list. The ingredients may be local, but there are nordic influences at play, too, both in the look of the place and in the pristine cooking, which borders — and sometimes crosses into — austerity. Warning: complaints about the service have been circulating…
That executive chef Phillipe Labbés name is nearly homophonous to the name of this luxe enclave in the new Shangri-La hotel is only coincidence. “The bee” (as it translates) is actually a nod to the building’s Bonapartian heritage; it was built in 1896 by a princely nephew of the former emperor, whose coat of arms included a few golden bees. A century later, critics are buzzing about this addition to Paris’ haute dining scene. Many dishes present a main ingredient in dueling acts; meat and fowl come from royal lineage; the room is fit for modern aristocrats. It probably goes without saying that the prices will sting.
There must be at least one marriage proposal at the Jules Verne every day. Perched high in the Eiffel Tower, the restaurant was taken over by Ducasse, and his chef Pascal Féraud offers a menu of classics, befitting of the location (foie gras in many forms, escargots, tournedos de boeuf, Bresse chicken, savarin a l’Armagnac). The only thing missing might be a view of the tower itself. One Michelin star.
Once upon a time, Olivier Magny ran wine tastings and classes out of his own apartment. Now he’s opened a vast, slick wine bar near Les Halles with a list of about 500 bottles and 40 glass pours.
This landmark restaurant suffered after the death of legendary proprietor Claude Terrail, but his son André seems to have resuscitated the place, which could have languished into irrelevance on its (faded) laurels.
The neo-classical pavillion off the Champs-Elysées that houses Ledoyen is owned by the city of Paris, which seems to make sense given that this is one of the city’s oldest and most grand restaurants.
The open kitchen at Autour d’un Verre faces a tiny dining room where neighborhood locals and natural wine geeks tuck into straightforward fare washed down with bottles of “gritty natural wine“. Gritty in a good way.
If the walls at Lasserre could talk, they would tell stories about white doves, Marc Chagall, ortolan, and Audrey Hepburn, stories of glitterati and résistants taking their truffled macaroni under the retractable roof.
On the one hand, this really is a café, open all day long starting at 8 am. But it’s the natural wines and simple food that keep this place busy. The terrace doesn’t hurt.
Olivier Aubert is doing his part to spread the vins natures gospel; Les Trois Seaux is his third opening in less than a year, after the Bodeguita versions 4eme and 9eme. The menu here includes more substantial offerings than the usual wine bar formula of cheese and charcuterie, good news for those of us incapable of learning that a night of drinking requires more sustenance than a few slices of chorizo and brebis.
You can call Quedubon a bistro or a wine bar or a cave. All apply to this address near the Buttes Chaumont, where hearty food is washed down with natural wines from a lengthy chalkboard list, and the only thing pretentious is the name.
Joël Robuchon’s empire expands again with the opening of another Atelier, this time on the Champs-Elysées. Expect deft use of global ingredients, pristine products, pretty people, and a wait, unless you nab reservation for lunch or the first dinner seating; otherwise, it’s first come, first served.
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