Monthly Archives: June 2014

L’Epi Dupin

This is no longer included among the favorite 350 addresses that make up Our Guide to Paris Restaurants. We’ve maintained this page so that you can refer to the practical information and other reviews of interest. Feel free to share your own opinion in the comments.

Practical information

Address: 11 rue Dupin, 75006
Nearest transport: Sevres-Babylone (10, 12)
Hours: Dinner, Monday-Friday; lunch, Tuesday-Friday; closed Saturday and Sunday
Reservations: Last minute booking usually O.K.
Telephone: 01 42 22 64 56
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: market-based cooking, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Caroline Mignot (2009) “L’ardoise arrive, pas une suggestion qui ne fasse pas envie…Crevettes à peine saisies, au coeur encore fondant et “rosé”, enrobées de quelques grains de sésame…Velouté de Saint-Jacques incroyablement lisse…Le dessert parle de lui-même…”

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La Tute restaurant in Paris via Facebook | parisbymouth.com

La Tute

Practical information

Address: 7 rue Rossini, 75009
Nearest transport: Richelieu-Drouot (8, 9)
Hours: Open every day for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Book a day or two in advance
Telephone: 01 40 15 65 65
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: French – Southwest and Basque

Reviews of interest

Figaroscope (2012) “…un terroir fort en gueule, gaillard, ventru, solidement campé sur la calorie et prodigue à pousser la rapière. On craignait la caricature, on découvre un vrai caractère.”

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La Maison de l'Aubrac Restaurant in Paris | Paris By Mouth

La Maison de l’Aubrac

Practical information

Address: 37 rue Marbeuf, 75008
Nearest transport: George V (1)
Hours: Open every day, 24 hours a day
Reservations: Walk-ins Welcome
Telephone: 01 43 59 05 14
Average price for lunch: 40-59€
Average price for dinner: 40-59€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Website   Facebook   Book Online

Reviews of interest

Le Figaro (2012) “… du bon goût de la province… l’aligot­, traditionelle purée au fromage et starlette locale, s’agrémente d’une bonne bête aveyronnai­se (tartare, faux filet, entrecôte, saucisse, côte de bœuf, pièce du boucher)…”

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Fée Nature

Practical information

Address: 69 rue d’Argout, 75002
Nearest transport: Sentier (3)
Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday; Open Monday-Friday for lunch
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 42 21 44 36
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Soups/salads/sandwiches, vegetarian options, healthy eating
Website   Facebook

Additional Locations

Address: 40 bis rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, 75010
Nearest transport: Bonne Nouvelle (8, 9)
Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday; Open Monday-Friday for lunch
Telephone: 09 83 69 90 71

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Le Conservatoire de Cédric Casanova

Practical information

Address: 14 rue Sainte-Marthe, 75010
Nearest transport: Colonel Fabien (2)
Hours: Open every day for lunch and dinner (épicerie open Tuesday through Friday 2pm-7pm and Saturday 10am-7pm)
Reservations: By email only at picnic@latetedanslesolives.com
Telephone: 09 80 52 31 52
Average price for lunch: 30€
Average price for dinner: 30€
Style of cuisine: Italian

Reviews of interest

Emmanuel Rubin (2012) “Casanova s’emploie à une petite piste de délestage l’instant de cette micro-épicerie où une jeune mamma improvise pour quelques bandes voluptueusement organisées (réservation obligatoire) une bucolique gourmande à la sicilienne.”

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Sol Semilla

Practical information

Address: 23 rue des Vinaigriers, 75010
Nearest transport: Jacques Bonsergent (5)
Hours: Open Sunday-Wednesday 12pm-4pm; Open Thursday-Saturday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 42 01 03 44
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Health food, Vegetarian & vegan
Website   Facebook

Reviews of interest

My Paris Notebook (2011) “In addition to selling things like raw chocolate, cat’s claw, guarana, maca and purple corn, they serve a vegan, organic lunch menu Tuesday-Sunday.  I’m not sure I buy into the therapeutic claims of many of their products, but the food is as delicious as it is unusual.  I’d have no problem switching to a vegan diet if it all tasted this good.”

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La Table d'Aki restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

La Table d’Aki

Practical information

Address: 49 rue Vaneau, 75007
Nearest transport: Vaneau (10)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, Tuesday-Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 45 44 43 48
Average price for lunch: 35-49€
Average price for dinner: 50-99€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Facebook

Reviews of interest

Patricia Wells (2014) “Subtle, streamlined, and honest… a singular style of cuisine, offering dishes that both satisfy and surprise, amaze with their freshness, and always make us feel special to be one of the lucky few to secure a table at the 16-seat restaurant. ”

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Yen

Practical information

Address: 22 rue Saint Benoit, 75006
Nearest transport: Saint Germain des Prés (4)
Hours: Closed Sunday; Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 45 44 11 18
Website

Reviews of interest

Food Intelligence (2012) “Chez Yen l’on vient se nourrir de calme et de soba. Ces pâtes de sarrasin, chaudes ou froides, fabriquées en vitrine, paradent en majesté…”

Patricia Wells (2011) “…a  Japanese treasure, offering silken tofu that’s as smooth as pudding; feather-light tempura; and deliciously satisfying al dente soba noodles bathed in a fragrant mahogany-toned broth that both fills and satisfies.”

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Ribs at Floyds in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Floyd’s Bar & Grill

At first glance, Floyd’s appears to simply be a bar with craft cocktails and snacks. Keep wandering past the kitchen though and you’ll find the back half of the building is a modern Gallic update on the classic American steakhouse from the team behind Pink Flamingo. The menu features Franco-American fusion items like fried rabbit & waffles or buffalo frog’s legs, plus Kansas City style ribs. Sunday brunch is an Anglo-style roast with Yorkshire pudding and veg for 18€.

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Racines 2

Practical information

Address: 39 rue de l’Arbre Sec, 75001
Nearest transport: Louvre-Rivoli (1)
Hours: Closed Sunday; Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner; Open Saturday for dinner only
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 42 60 77 34
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 40-59€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Website

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2012) “The ‘menu’ is a very reasonable 29 E for 3 courses, but a la carte we’re dealing with double that, and that’s before liquids.  But I rather liked the ‘menu’…a perfectly cooked duck breast with a ton of vegetables…a chocolate mousse…All were much above average…”

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La Maison du Chou exterior | parisbymouth.com

La Maison du Chou

In a pretty place tucked behind the abbey of Saint-Germain, MOF Manuel Martinez is producing tender cream puffs that are filled to order.

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All About Normandy Cream – la Crème de la Crème

Creme Crue Fermeiere (photo: Jennifer Greco)

Creme Crue Fermeiere (photo: Jennifer Greco)

What is it about the cream from Normandy that makes it so special?

First, there is la Vache Normande, the Normandy cow. Brown and white spotted Normandy cows, easily recognizable by the unique markings around their eyes, called spectacles or lunettes, produce milk that is exceptionally high in butterfat. And they produce a lot of it, around 7 gallons a day. In the spring and summer the cows graze on sweet, fresh grass and in the winter they are fed hay or sugar beets, all of which give the milk a delicious, distinctive character.

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Our Guide to Normandy

Normandy-Cow

Activities for Food Lovers

Musée de Camembert (in Vimoutiers)

Delicious Normandy Food Tours (in Bayeux)

Restaurants

Le Vauban (in Port-en-Bessin-Huppain)

Auberge le Clos Saint Julien (in Saint-Julien-sur-Calonne)

Manoir de la Drôme (in Balleroy)

Restaurant La Sapinière (in Saint-Laurent-sur-Mer)

La Rotonde (in Port-en-Bessin-Huppain)

Cheese & Dairy

La Fromagerie Graindorge (in Livarot)

Coopérative Isigny Sainte-Mère (in Isigny-sur-Mer)

La Fromagerie de Bayeux (in Bayeux)

Wine & Cider

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All About Cider & Other Apple & Pear Drinks

Normandy cider sign
Apple and pear orchards, usually with a cow or two grazing under the trees, are the ubiquitous image of the Norman countryside, and a visit to Normandy wouldn’t be complete without sampling the local refreshments – cider, pommeau, poiré and calvados. Here’s everything you need to know about the region’s quartet of fruity libations.

What to Taste

Cidre de Normandie: Cidre, or cider, is a sparkling, alcoholic beverage made from crushed apples that is fermented for 2-3 months before being bottled. It is produced on farms and in homes all over the region, comes in numerous versions, degrees of sweetness and alcohol contents. About 750 varieties of apples can be used to make Normandy cider, but only 50 of those are allowed in the production of AOC cider from the Pays d’Auge.

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Biscuiterie Les Sablés d’Asnelles

The recipe for these buttery sugar cookies, called sablés, has been a closely guarded secret since 1904, when Charles Bansard opened this tiny biscuiterie just a few blocks from the beach in Asnelles-sur-Mer. The current owners, Antoine et Marie Laure Cormier, took over in 1983 and have preserved M Bansard’s original recipe of only four ingredients; AOC Beurre d’Isigny, flour, sugar and eggs. In 1997 the couple introduced the “salé fin,” a sablé made with Normandy salt butter and in 2009 a chocolate sablé was invented, the “choco fin.”

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La Rotonde

The large terrace overlooking the fishing port and the hearty servings of delicious, seasonal moules de Barfleur prepared “à la Normande” or “marinières,” are the highlights of this bar and brasserie. The menu also offers oysters (in season) and other seafood dishes, and typical café food such as omelets, salads and sandwiches. The service can be a bit uneven, so it is best to go when you are not in a rush. This is also a great place to stop and enjoy a coffee or an apéritif after visiting the Sunday morning market that takes place along the port.

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Auberge le Clos Saint Julien

This rural French auberge, located in the beautiful Norman countryside near Pont l’Évêque, offers fresh, classical French cuisine prepared by chef/owner, Nicolas Vincent. The rustic half-timbered dining room is cosy and lit with a big fire in the winter, and bright and airy in the summer, when the doors are thrown open on to the terrace on sunny days. Dishes include regional specialties, seasonal seafood, homemade pork terrine served with sweet and sour confit d’oignons, and a light, fruit studded mousse au fromage blanc for dessert.

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La Fromagerie de Bayeux

Peggy and Jérémy Thomas are no strangers to the cheese business. Jérémy, an artisan fromager, spent several years learning the ins and outs of the business at his uncle’s cheese shop in Paris (the now closed Fromagerie Pascal Trotté) as well as at Rungis. His wife, Peggy, is a third generation fromagère in her family, following in the footsteps of her grandfather, her uncle and her father. The shop offers cheese from all over France as well as the famous cheeses of Normandy and local farm produced fromage. They also sell locally made yogurt and crème crue, as well as cider and wine.

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Musée de Camembert

This quaint and very aromatic museum was created in 1986 through donations from local Camembert producers in order to preserve the important history of this regional AOC cheese. Signs posted throughout explain the steps of fabrication – from the separation of curds and whey, the traditional hand ladling (rather than pouring) into molds, the ageing and what materials are used and why. Additionally, there are over 3,000 labels from different Camembert producers on display.

The museum is still mainly staffed by volunteers, so it is closed in the winter and has rather limited hours in the summer, open only between 2-5:30pm. At the height of the tourist season, a wedge of camembert served with a glass of local cider is offered to visitors.

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Restaurant La Sapinière

Located just 20 yards from Omaha beach, La Sapinière is one of a few places to stop and enjoy a meal in an area along the D-Day beaches that sees a large number of international visitors, yet isn’t known for great restaurants. It offers generous portions of simply prepared, traditional food, all made in house with fresh ingredients, and a very friendly, English speaking staff. Take advantage of the large terrace on a sunny day, and when the rain is falling, as it often does in Normandy, settle in next to the fire in the bright, cabin style dining room.

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Saturday Market in Bayeux

Every Saturday morning, rain or shine, la Place Saint Patrice, which serves as a parking lot during the rest of the week, transforms into a bustling weekly market. The entire perimeter of the square is taken up by food –  local cheese producers and large trucks selling fromage from all over France; Normandy cider and Calvados producers offer samples of their products; local fruit and vegetable growers and organic farmers set up long tables. You will find fresh seafood trucks offering an array of Normandy seafood and others with just one item such as local mussels or petit gris, and at one end of the market there are live poultry and rabbits for sale. There are vendors selling wine, bread, charcuterie, cut flowers, herbs and plants for the garden, prepared food such as pizza, paella, choucroute de la mer, sweet and savory crêpes, even spicy samosas and curry made by a woman who comes from the Reunion Islands. In the center of the square you will find new and used books for sale, seasonal clothing, shoes and slippers for men, women and children, jewelry and scarves, pottery, handbags and market baskets.

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Le Volet Qui Penche

In the historic center of Bayeux, wine connoisseur and caviste, Pierre-Henri Lemessier, has transformed a little house overlooking the river Aure into a wine bar and bistro offering simple, delicious food to accompany his well stocked selection of French wine. At lunchtime a generous plat du jour is served with a glass of wine for only €9,80, and in the evening you can enjoy a 3-course menu for €18. Also available are charcuterie and cheese platters, salads, omelets, escargots and crôques-monsieur, many of which are served all afternoon long in the comfortable dining room. And don’t leave without trying the specialty of the house – le sorbet au vin.

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