Our selection of spots for eating and drinking outdoors, organized by preference, location and price. Scroll to the end to find a map of all our picks.
If you already love Belleville, you’ll probably love this simple café perched high above the neighborhood’s namesake park. It’s not much more than cheap rosé served at communal picnic tables by friendly servers, but on certain summer evenings, that’s really all you need.
In Other Words
Sortir à Paris (2017) “On this small square filled with trees, nestled on the heights of the Parc de Belleville, we enjoy a view on the Eiffel Tower and all the colors of the sky. Warm and friendly, with its large table and wooden benches, it’s the perfect terrace to enjoy, as it should be, the lights of the magic hour.”
Any guest of our food tours acknowledges that the enjoyment and excitement of travel is derived in part from the inherent risks incurred by travel and activity beyond the accepted safety of life at home or work, and that these inherent risks contribute to such enjoyment and excitement, and are reasons for my voluntary participation. Therefore, the guest acknowledges that they are aware of the inherent hazards and risks associated with participating in a Big Mouth, LLC d/b/a Paris by Mouth (Paris by Mouth) tour, including those associated with travel, including walking, food/wine and adventure tours. Specifically, the guest is aware of the physical requirements of participating in this tour. The guest affirms that they are able to participate in the tour. The guest understands that, while participating, they may be walking for several hours, including on uneven walkways, sidewalks and roads. The guest agrees to inform Paris by Mouth of any food allergies and understand that not all requests can be accommodated given the nature of the tour. The guest understands that Paris by Mouth acts solely as an agent in arranging food tours, venue visits & other services. The guest understands that all of the guides are independent contractors of Paris by Mouth and have been selected based on their experience. Paris by Mouth is not responsible for the actions of, the conduct of or the decisions made by the guide.
What people are saying
Longtime friends from the neighborhood Lelio Stettin and Sonny Lac offer rigorously-selected vegetables, cheeses, meats, eggs, craft beers, organic and natural wines, and tinned preserves – all of opulent quality at quasi-socialist prices. Lac formerly worked nearby at the quaint wine-bistrot Mélac, and his wine selection at Le Zingam is honest and simple, geared towards casual refreshment over geek reverence. The shop’s product selection overall is a work of low-key brilliance – from tomme de chevre to pancetta to yogurt pots, Le Zingam’s selections are laser-targeted to invite wholesale adoption into one’s habitual home meals. For any Parisians perturbed by the slow transformation of quality foodstuffs into luxuries in their city, Le Zingam – discerning, refined, and unpretentious – is a godsend.
Address: 16 Rue Elzevir, 75003
Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8)
Hours: Open Tuesday-Thursday and Sunday from 12-9pm. Open Friday-Saturday from 12-10pm.
Telephone: 09 83 74 25 04
Website Facebook Instagram
Address: 163 Boulevard Voltaire, 75011
Nearest transport: Charonne (9)
Hours: Open Tuesday-Friday from 10:30am-1:30pm and from 3:30-8:30pm. Open Saturday from 10:30am-9pm. Open Sunday from 11am-2pm and from 4-8pm. Open Monday from 5:30-8:30pm.
Telephone: 09 83 05 27 46
- Lost in Cheeseland sandwich
Address: 3 rue Neuve Popincourt, 75011
Hours: Closed Wednesday & Thursday. Open Monday, Tuesday & Friday from 8:30am-4:30pm. Open Saturday & Sunday from 9:30am-4:30pm.
Telephone: none, but their email is firstname.lastname@example.org
Website Facebook Instagram
Café Oberkampf in pictures
About this workshop
If you’ve ever wondered why there are more than 500 different cheeses in France, how different cheeses are produced (what accounts for their texture, color, and smell?), why French cheesemakers use raw unpasteurized milk in their cheese, what the impact of seasonality and aging are on cheese, and how locals typically enjoy cheese in restaurants and at home… this is a tasting for you.
How much cheese? It depends on the day, but we usually go for at least 10 different cheeses, representing a wide variety of French regions and cheesemaking styles. And because it wouldn’t be a proper cheese tasting without wine, we’ll be matching at least five different French wines with our fromage and discussing principles for pairing cheese & wine that you can try on your own. You’ll leave with a solid understanding of some of the major categories and appellations of French cheese and wine, and you’ll have so much fun that it won’t feel like learning.
Price for the cheese & wine workshop: 110€ per person, including all tastings. This small-group tasting (not a walking tour) is conducted in English and will last around three hours. We’ll send you the address of the beautiful space in Saint-Germain where this seated workshop is held once you’ve made your reservation.
We offer this workshop on Saturdays beginning at 11:30am. You’ll be sampling enough cheese, bread and wine that this can double as lunch. Send us an email if your desired dates are sold out, if you’re looking for a date after April 2020, or if you have any other questions.
A sampling of what we might taste
A refund of 75% is available for those who cancel with at least 48 hours advance notice. For those who cancel with less than 48 hours notice, no refund will be made. Our tours run rain or shine. Clients who arrive more than 15 minutes late without calling or who don’t show up at all (no-shows) will be treated as last-minute cancellations without a refund.
Clients who are booking tours for the day of their arrival in Paris should be aware that we do not offer refunds in the case of delayed flights and trains (because this is such a common occurrence).
email@example.com for website-related inquiries
firstname.lastname@example.org for food tour-related inquiries
To book a food tour:
Book directly online or send an email to tasteparisbymouth.com
- November 24: Juveniles is organizing a tasting dinner will be organized around the Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines from Domaine de la Biscarelle, with the presence of winemakers Jérome & Christelle Grieco. Reserve at 01 42 97 46 49.
- November 24: Thanksgiving will be celebrated at Red House and other locations around town. See our guide to Thanksgiving in Paris 2016.
- November 25-27: The Paris Cocktail Festival comprises several events, including a cocktail crawl on Saturday and a major salon on Sunday with more than 50 producers, brands and cocktails to taste. Check the online program for full details.
- November 26: a free tasting with the winemaker from Domaine Raspail-Ay (Gigondas). From 11am-7pm at La Dernière Goutte, 6 rue de Bourbon de Chateau, 75006.
- November 27: L’Amité Rit will be hosting the Naturisme tasting with the presence of winemakers Thibault Pfifferling (L’Anglore), Elodie Balme, Catherine Bernard, Sylvain Bock, Marie Lottin (Château Bas), Corine et Carole Andrieu (Clos Fantine), Pierre Fénals (En Belles Lies), Yannick Pelletier, Nicolas Réau, and Jean-Pierre Rietsch. From 11am-6pm at 120 Avenue du Président Wilson, 93100 Montreuil (métro line 9: Mairie du Montreuil).
- November 28: the Green Goose will be hosting the first in a series of of Irish Tasting Menus. This new series aims to bring the best Irish artisanal products to the dinner table once a month, and the first dinner for 45 euros features two glasses of Teeling Irish Whiskey paired at different points with grilled oysters & Cas
- hel blue cheese, Irish charcuterie, organic smoked salmon cannelloni, filet of beef with creamy polenta and girolles, a selection of Irish cheeses and a dark chocolate dessert. Reservations are obligatory at 09 82 37 73 41 or email@example.com.
- December 3: a free tasting with the winemakers from Château Pierre-Bise (Loire Valley), Domaine d’Aupilhac (Montpeyroux) and Pierre Moncuit (Champagne). From 11am-7pm at La Dernière Goutte, 6 rue de Bourbon de Chateau, 75006.
- December 17: a free tasting with the winemakers from Domaine Cailbourdin (Pouilly-Fumé) and Domaine Arretxea (Irouleguy). From 11am-7pm at La Dernière Goutte, 6 rue de Bourbon de Chateau, 75006.
About this tour
Throughout its long history, the Latin Quarter has hosted the city’s most prestigious educational institutions, along with an eclectic mix of students. More recently, and more in keeping with our gluttonous aims, the area has seen the arrival of prize-winning cheesemongers, sweet shops and other food artisans.
What we’ll taste
In addition to sampling savory charcuterie and cheeses from one of the most historic cheese affineurs in town along with bread and wine, we’ll be sharing a wide array of treats along the sweet spectrum. That includes chocolates from the hand of a Meilleur Ouvrier de France (an MOF – the highest rank for a French chocolatier), and the city’s best lemon tart. Although we will be sampling a bit along the way, the bulk of our tasting and discussion will take place while seated in a comfortable wine shop where we can select and pair different wines to enjoy with the wonderful items we’ve collected during our walk.
Price for a small group tour: 110€ per person, including all tastings. Our tours are all conducted in English and last approximately three hours. This tour will finish with a seated tasting that includes wine, but we’ll be on our feet and moving for at least two hours throughout the tour. We’ll send you the exact meeting point upon booking, but you can plan to begin near the Censier-Daubenton métro stop and finish near the Place Monge métro stop. We maintain very small group sizes and are unable to add guests to tours that don’t have enough available tickets. Send us an email if your desired dates are sold out or if you have any other questions. We hope to meet you soon!
The Latin Quarter in pictures
A refund of 75% is available for those who cancel with at least 48 hours advance notice. For those who cancel with less than 48 hours notice, no refund will be offered. Our tours run rain or shine. Clients who arrive more than 20 minutes late without calling or who don’t show up at all (no-shows) will be treated as last-minute cancellations with no refund.
Clients who are booking tours for the day of their arrival in Paris should be aware that we do not offer refunds in the case of delayed flights (because this is such a common occurrence).
Pastificio Passerini will make fresh pasta daily to cook at home and sell everything needed to make it into a meal, including various jarred ragus and sauces, fresh herbs to infuse into butter, Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, cured meat, and a handful of high-end Italian grocery products.
On opening day, the chef had fresh pappardelle, taglioni, and tagliatelle (fresh and buckwheat), plus three stuffed pastas including Taleggio cheese and seaweed ravioli, ravioli with pumpkin, brown butter, pistachios, and bergamot ricotta, and an agnolotti with mortadella, chicory, pork and veal. Prices for the fresh pasta are astoundingly low for the quality, with plain versions selling for €1.90 per 150 grams and stuffed pastas for €3.90, with roughly 150 grams suggested per person.
To shorten wait times, you can call ahead and order in advance. Orders for the next day should be placed from 3-5pm the night beforehand. Printed recipes for how to cook and sauce the pastas will eventually be available, too.
Those who wish to have their pasta cooked for them can look forward to the chef’s new restaurant, Restaurant Passerini, which will open just next door sometime mid-2016. It’s still under construction but Passerini promises table-side garnishes and refined Italian comfort food.
For practical info and hours on the pasta shop, check out our guide page for Pastificio Passerini.
Diners can expect simple, seasonal, small plates and excellent wines, per usual. Fourmont says that the bar, also called Le Pigalle, “will be more about assembly than cooking, like a kitchen where most of the preparation is done beforehand. The jam may have been made last summer, and the evening menu this morning.”
For hours and practical info, check out our guide page for Le Pigalle.
Photo via Le Pigalle’s Facebook page
He seeks out and photographs a different edible masterpiece each day, and his color and pattern combos are a feast for the eyes.
you’re probably green with envy of this perfect green pistachio croissant by @fauchon_paris we’ll get your butt to Paris and try it, hey and don’t forget to tag me!
Rarely is “it’s just like it always was” a compliment, but a delighted customer at the shop’s re-opening this week meant it as high praise. The iconoclastic and historic candy shop, which features hard-to-find, old-fashioned sweets from throughout France, had been a fixture in Pigalle for over 40 years when, in February 2014, an accidental nearby explosion destroyed the shop and forced its closure. Sweet lovers mourned the loss of unusual candies like the bars of Bernachon chocolates from Lyon (the only spot in Paris to get them) or blackcurrant jellies from Dijon with a liquid center.
Selected addresses for gluten-free goods:
Thank You, My Deer – It’s a silly name but they’re serious about gluten-free goods, good coffee, and good service. This little café bakes their own doughy bread, has soups, salads & sandwiches for lunch, and more involved fare like homemade gluten-free ravioli or potato gnocchi for dinner. Brunch with homemade waffles and other items available on the weekends.
Chambelland – An excellent gluten-free bakery that specializes in crusty rice/buckwheat breads using flour from their own mill in Provence. A selection of cakes, tarts and even gluten-free chouquettes are available at this trendy café that your wheat-eating friends won’t even realize is gluten-free.
Eric Kayser – The famous baker who has stores throughout the city (and now abroad) has developed a line of gluten-free bread, pastries, cookies and cakes that are all labeled “libre gluten” at his 4 rue de l’Echelle, 75001 location. The selection is limited and prices are higher, but it’s well worth it for those with serious allergies. Kayser took cross-contamination concerns very seriously and created a specific gluten-free lab/bakery to avoid traces of other flours, hired a baker with celiac’s disease, and wraps the bags in two plastic bags to ensure that they’re safe when in the retail location around other wheat products.
Café Marlette – This sweet & stylish café near Pigalle has healthy soups & salads that are often naturally gluten-free, but the real appeal here is the baked goods. Many of their cakes use rice or buckwheat flours, and they have boxed mixes available for home baking. Options include banana bread, fondant au chocolat, a rapadura sugar cake and more. Their mixes can also be found at gourmet food shops like Maison Plisson and La Grande Epicerie.
Bob’s Bake Shop – Bob’s is worth the trek for the (very good) bottomless cups of coffee for 2 euros alone. There’s always a salad or two, a maki roll, and a soup that are good for the gluten-free, but they usually have a satisfying GF sweet or two. We’ve seen gluten-free vegan fruit crumbles on most days, plus nutty macaroons (not macarons) and an excellent moist chocolate-pear loaf cake on occasion.
Helmut Newcake – Classic French tarts & sweets at this dedicated gluten-free café & bakery near the Canal Saint Martin.
Noglu – The first dedicated gluten-free restaurant in Paris with a small grocery and a separate location for take-away.
Bears & Raccoons – A brand new, entirely GF sandwich shop.
Café Pinson – A (surprisingly?) trendy vegan café in the Marais that is sensitive to gluten issues. Their health-conscious soups and salads are often naturally gluten-free and you can usually find a few GF sweets to finish.
Le Grenier de Félix – This award-winning boulangerie in the 15th has gluten-free bread available upon special order.
Ob-La-Di – This coffee shop in the Haut Marais has an excellent gluten-free granola mix, and a handful of baked goods that somehow manage to be good gluten-free, and vegan, and actually taste good.
My Free Kitchen – Gluten-free, dairy-free, and all-organic café.
L’Atelier des Lilas – A wholesale producer of well-regarded lactose free & gluten-free quiches, tarts, cakes and cookies. Their products are available at a wide range of grocery stores and shops.
Le Pain Quotidien – It’s an international baked goods behemoth, but they’re always good for gluten-free breakfast & lunch in a pinch.
Grom – The international chain of gelaterias has gone entirely gluten-free, so even the cones are fine to eat.
There are a variety of natural and organic food stores like Naturalia, Bio C’Bon, and Pimlico which have extensive selections of gluten-free goods. Even regular grocery stores like Franprix or Carrefour are getting into the act and you can often find a dedicated aisle for special diets including gluten-free items.
Naturally gluten-free treats from places we like:
Blé Sucré – This excellent bakery is filled (as the name implies) with wheat, but they almost always offer an individual chocolate-raspberry trousseau cake made from almond flour that is naturally gluten-free, plus homemade macarons stuffed with whipped cream and jam.
Crêperie Mad Eo – Many of the savory galettes at this Breton crêperie are made with naturally gluten-free buckwheat flour.
Pain de Sucre – This is a bakery chock full of gluten, but they have a variety of gluten-free offerings including homemade alcoholic marshmallows, cookies made with chestnut flour, calissons made from almond paste, macarons, and ice cream & gelato.
Gilles Marchal – Gluten can be found in abundance at this pâtisserie in Montmartre, but the Alsatian baker makes an excellent gluten-free “Sacher” cake that is reminiscent of a rich, chocolate tiramisu.
Many of the craft coffee shops in Our Guide to Decent Coffee will have a GF sweet or two to accompany drinks.
Most of the Mexican restaurants in our guide utilize corn tortillas and would be mostly gluten-free. Always confirm with the chef/your server. You can order corn chips and tortillas directly from Tortilleria Mil Amores for GF Mexican at home.
Bululu Arepera – Venezuelan arepas are made with cornmeal and stuffed with meats, cheeses and plantains, and are naturally gluten-free.
David Lebovitz’s fantastic compendium of
gluten-free dining & bakery options
According to La Recyclerie, the birds are a valuable part of the restaurant team who help maintain the gardens, participate in their anti-waste and recycling efforts, and serve an important function in their farm’s educational efforts.
At the time of this report, no leads had been found although several posters on Facebook cheekily suggested checking out the local KFC. Surveillance cameras will be added to deter future poultry thefts.
Photo of La Recyclerie’s courtesy of their Facebook page.
Rooms will start at 200€ and guests will have the option to be chauffeured around town to any of the group’s other establishments – Beef Club, Fish Club, Prescription Cocktail Club and Curio Parlour – in a vintage DS Citroen 1973. For those who prefer to stay and stumble closer to home, the rue Victor Massé features plenty of other cocktail destinations – L’Entrée des Artistes, Lulu White, Glass, and Dirty Dick, to name a few.
If we look exclusively at the food, however, ignoring the chandelier that twinkles overhead and the plush pedestal propping up our handbags, there is still much to celebrate in haute cuisine.
Most of the shops normally close for the sabbath on Friday evenings and all-day Saturday, but were forced to take extra precautions and shutter early this afternoon.