Les Enfants du Marché

Les Enfants du Marché, a modern & creative restaurant located within the open-air Marché des Enfants Rouges market in the upper Marais, is a dining counter known for natural wine and avant-garde cuisine. While the seating on bar stools in the bustling market might suggest a more lowbrow offering, the surprising combinations on Japanese chef Masahide Ikuta's unforgettable plates evoke a far more fine dining affair (an evocation reflected in the highbrow prices). It is one of our favorite Paris restaurants.

Pompette

Pompette is a small plates restaurant boasting a natural wine list from Australian sommelière Jess Hodges. Chef Jordan Robinson’s modest menu is mostly pescatarian with international and North American influences ranging from curry-spiked cockles to fried chicken with white barbecue sauce. Reservations are a must, whether for one of the 28 indoor seats or the dozen on the terrace.

Chez L’Ami Jean

Chez l'Ami Jean is a convivial bistro just steps from the Eiffel Tower. Known for its copious, Basque-inspired fare and brash, boisterous ambiance, this restaurant offers both à la carte options and a 78-euro "carte blanche" menu, created each day by Chef Stéphane Jégo. Whichever you choose, try (and yes, it'll be a feat) to save room for the house special rice pudding. Served in a generous bowl with nougatine and caramel, it's become such a fan favorite Jégo can't take it off the menu.

Massale

The 11th arrondissement may be flooded with phenomenal restaurants, but the seasonal menu at Massale stands out with far meatier market-driven options than most other spots leaning into the plant-based trend. Fish and seafood nevertheless abound here, and the wine list features specialties from France's Jura and beyond.

Boucherie les Provinces

Address: 20 Rue d’Aligre, 75012
Hours: Open Wednesday–Sunday lunch, Wednesday–Saturday dinner
Telephone: +33 (0)1 43 43 91 64
Website / Facebook

Meat enthusiasts won’t be disappointed by this bustling butchershop-cum-restaurant set in the Marché d’Aligre, one of Paris’ most popular neighborhood markets. On the menu, you’ll find the usual French steak classics of entrecôte, faux-filet, and onglet, as well as a large selection of lamb, veal and pork. True carnivores (and the more adventurous) can opt for tartare maison, sweetbreads, or andouillette sausage.

Eels

We haven’t yet reviewed this restaurant, but you can scroll down to find the practical information and to read what others are saying about Eels.

Practical Information

Address: 27 Rue d’Hauteville, 75010
Hours: Open Tuesday-Saturday from 12:30-14:00 and from 19:30-22:00.
Telephone: +33 (0)1 42 28 80 20
Website    Online Booking    Facebook   Instagram

What people are saying

  • The Financial Times (2018) Nicholas Lander says that his lunch “delivered everything I look for in a meal anywhere: the kind of hospitality I would expect from someone in their own home combined with ultra-professional cooking of straight-forward ingredients.”
  • Le Monde (2018) François Simon calls this a serene spot, noting that chef Adrien Ferrand undoubtedly earned that characteristic alongside his mentor William Ledeuil from Ze Kitchen Galerie. He calls it a sort of comfort food, with plates that are brilliantly balanced and service that is friendly and efficient.
  • Le Fooding (2017) says that Eels “ticks off all the necessary boxes for a Parisian faubourgeois affaire: polished recipes, well-sourced ingredients, unadulterated wines and zero nonsense.” They rave about a dish of smoked eel with licorice-infused browned butter and the wines selected by Félix le Louarn.
  • Alexander Lobrano (2017) calls Eels the best new table of the rentrée “due to the superbly witty, inventive and assured cooking of chef Adrien Ferrand.” He praises the front-of-house staff for delivering “a flawless and charming service experience around the outstanding cooking of Adrien Ferrand.”
  • L’Express (2017) raves about the signature dish with “small sections of lightly smoked fish, hazelnut butter and hazelnut chips for the roundness, a touch of liquorice for spicy sweetness, shoots of oxalis and green apple for freshness.”
  • Dessance

    We’ve visited and will be adding our review soon. In the meantime, you can scroll to see our photos and what others have said about Dessance.

    Practical information

    Address: 74 rue des Archives, 75003
    Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8), Rambuteau (11)
    Hours: Closed Monday & Tuesday; Open Wednesday-Sunday continuously for lunch & dinner
    Telephone: +33 1 42 77 23 62
    Website   Facebook    Instagram

    Dessance in pictures

    Photos by Meg Zimbeck © Paris by Mouth

    What people are saying about Dessance

    David Lebovitz (2015) “Like most experimental food, not everything is a hit. A starter of mustard leaf sorbet that was paired with mirabelle plums and smoked cheese (shown up above) tasted – well…like a frozen puree of mustard leaves. But a grated carrot sorbet with pea puree and pea shoots was excellent. And I loved the ripe strawberries with parsley ice cream and fruit leather that led the way to the final course.”

    The Financial Times (2014) “On a recent visit, the four-course degustation menu began on a savory note – raw tuna paired with tangy orbs of red and white currants, droplets of peach purée, avocado sorbet, and a red onion emulsion that was so good I’d like to suggest they sell it as a condiment.”

    Sugared & Spiced (2014) “This second visit to Dessance was overall a pleasant experience. Some dishes were a bit too much for me in terms of flavor combination, but Dessance still remains an interesting address to visit for its unusual creations. For a change of the Paris sweet scene, why not?”

    The New York Times (2014) “The menu at Dessance doesn’t run toward the pastries, cakes and tarts that a desserts-only concept might imply, but rather offers a small but intriguing collection of dishes that can be eaten as both desserts and main courses, including, for example, a surprising combination of violet-colored vitelotte potato purée with raw and poached apples, arugula and marjoram granité.”

    Le Figaro (2014) “Plutôt convaincante à prouver, par un jeu de compositions biseautées, que l’idée du repas en mode sucré ne se réduit pas au final d’un repas.”

    Table à Découvert (2014) “Le menu ne se substitue pas à un repas (à moins qu’il y ait des adeptes), mais se déguste comme un moment à part, après un plat salé dégusté ailleurs (même s’il y a 2,3 propositions de salées comme des madeleines au roquefort, une assiette de comté, coing et scones ou un foie gras mi-cuit, butternut, fruit de la passion, brioche).”

    Arnaud Nicolas

    At the impossibly young age of 24, Arnaud Nicolas achieved one of the highest honors in gastronomy – the title Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF) – for his talent in charcuterie. Fourteen years later, he opened an ambitious shop and restaurant near the Eiffel Tower with the explicit goal of returning charcuterie to a place of honor on the French table. In the same way that prize-winning artisans have reshaped traditional baguette-making and pâtisserie, Nicolas wants to reintroduce charcuterie to palates that have become used to mediocre industrialized examples. So is it really that different? Yes.

    Le Baratin

    Food and wine pilgrims, particularly those who read the New York Times or watch Anthony Bourdain, are willing to climb the hill for this Belleville institution. Raquel Carena tends the fire, offering her own personal brand of bistro cooking - sometimes delicate, sometimes hearty, always heartfelt. In stark contrast to the loving kitchen, the dining room is cold as ice, thanks to the joyless leadership of Carena's husband Philippe.

    Le Chateaubriand

    Le Chateaubriand currently holds the #4 ranking in our list of our favorite Tasting Menus under 100€You can only reserve for the first seating at Le Chateaubriand. After that, you’ll have to wait in line from 9pm for a stab at Iñaki Aizpitarte’s no-choice tasting menu, a parade of provocative flavor pairings that has landed the restaurant on San Pellegrino’s 50 Best list for several years running. Whether you love or hate this restaurant may depend on your affinity for natural wine and improvisational cooking. We have had brilliant meals here, where every delicious dish taught us something new. We have been outraged, and we have been indifferent. You never quite know what to expect here, and that’s part of the fun. Just be sure to go with omnivorous friends who share that outlook.

    L’Assiette

    With its worn wooden tables, intricately painted ceilings, and charcuterie slicer propped on the marble counter, L'Assiette has the precise look of a dream Paris bistro. It also serves many of the classic dishes, like escargots and cassoulet, which have mostly disappeared from the city's restaurants. The far-flung location in the 14th arrondissement, near the Catacombs but far from the center, has probably helped L'Assiette to stay off the tourist radar. Chef David Rathgeber and his team are friendly with visitors but don't cater to them. The customers who come to indulge in this hearty fare are mostly local, which makes this a great option for tourists looking to avoid their own countrymen.

    L’Éclair de Génie Café

    Practical information

    Address: 31 rue Lepic, 75018
    Nearest transport: Abbesses (12),  Blanche (2)
    Hours: Open every day from 8:30am
    Reservations: Reservations not accepted
    Telephone: 01 84 79 23 40
    Average price for lunch: Less than 10€
    Style of cuisine: Baked goods, soups/salads/sandwiches
    Website   Facebook

    Photo via L’Éclair de Génie Café’s Facebook

    Sauvage

    Address: 60, rue du Cherche Midi, 75006
    Hours: Open Monday-Saturday for lunch & dinner. Closed Sunday.
    Telephone: +33 1 45 48 86 79
    Facebook / Instagram

    In Other Words

    Time Out (2016) “As soon as you enter this well-presented cave-cum-restaurant on the Rue du Cherche-Midi, you get an inkling you’re going to eat well. There’s something about all those interesting wine bottles stacked on the walls, the friendly intimacy of the main room (just 15 tables) and the small kitchen nestled at the back that immediately gives a good, homey impression.”

    Astrance

    Address: 4, rue Beethoven, 75016
    Hours: Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch & dinner. Closed Saturday, Sunday & Monday.
    Telephone: +33 1 40 50 84 40
    Online Booking / Website / Facebook / Instagram

    COVID-19 UPDATE:
    Astrance is currently closed until further notice.

    Astrance in Photos

    In Other Words

    As of early 2020, work has begun on a new l’Astrance at the former location of le Jamin, set to open summer 2020.

    Condé Nast Traveler (2015) “It’s a sanctuary where you can revel in the pleasures of such dishes as spinach with spicy piquillo peppers, chili pepper sorbet, and baby ravioli stuffed with a tangy bite of citron.”

    Le Grand Restaurant

    Address: 7 rue d’Aguesseau, 75008
    Hours: Open Monday-Friday for lunch & dinner. Closed Saturday & Sunday.
    Telephone: +33 1 53 05 00 00
    Book Online / Website / Instagram

    Le Grand Restaurant in Photos

    Office

    Practical information

    Address: 3 rue Richer, 75009
    Nearest transport: Cadet (7), Grands Boulevards (8, 9)
    Hours: Closed Saturday and Sunday; Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner
    Reservations: Book a few days in advance
    Telephone: 01 47 70 67 31
    Website   Facebook   Book Online

    L’Office in photos

    What people are saying

    Have you been? Leave your own opinion about L’Office in the comments!

    John Talbott (2014) “The newest chef, Konrad Ceglowski, is a master of protein with fruit and veggies… seduced, successfully, by the sauteed calamari with a creamy fennel sauce, zucchini and squid ink.  It was superb, no other word for it.”

    Figaroscope (2011) “De jolies surprises dans des formules à prix doux : velouté de coco et lardo di Colonnata pour l’onctuosité, mariage détonnant de poulpe, os à moelle et citron, poulet tendre parfaitement rôti, girolles et panais. Une belle maîtrise qui s’affiche jusqu’au dessert…”

    Alexander Lobrano (2011) “I was impressed by [former chef] O’Donnell’s technically impeccable and very personal Italian accented bistro cooking…This is a terrific little restaurant, though—and also an excellent buy for the money.”

    John Talbott (2011) “…superbly priced lunch menus…the pork belly with tomato, egg and rocket and…the pulpo with bone marrow and lemon…were tasty, very tasty.”

    Table à Décourvert (2011) “un style entre les irrésistibles tables du moment (Septime, Frenchie, Autour d’un Verre) et le bon vieil Office que l’on aimait…Allez-y!”

     

     

     

     

     

    Yam’Tcha

    Universally praised Franco-Chinois fare from Adeline Grattard, and all but impossible to book. The restaurant moved to a new location at 121, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 in June 2015 and converted their old space at 4, rue Sauval into a tea salon and to-go window selling delicious steamed buns (bao). 

    Address: 121, rue Saint Honoré, 75001
    Hours: Open Wednesday-Saturday for lunch & dinner. Closed Sunday, Monday & Tuesday.
    Telephone: +33 1 40 26 08 07
    Website / Instagram

    Yam’Tcha in Pictures

    Verjus Restaurant

    Address: 52 rue de Richelieu, 75001
    Hours: Open Monday-Friday for dinner only. Closed Saturday & Sunday.
    Telephone: +33 1 42 97 54 40
    Website / Book Online / FacebookInstagram

    COVID-19 UPDATE:
    Verjus is currently closed.

    Our Most Recent Visit

    I never tire of returning to Verjus, which has one of the most creative and affordable modern tasting menus in town. Chef Braden Perkins is self-taught, disciplined and obsessive. He makes time time for travel in order to take inspiration from chefs around the world, returning home to refine and personalize their best ideas. When he wasn’t happy with the produce available from local sources, he partnered with other chefs to cultivate a more direct network from farms in Normandy. The result of all this is a tasting menu that mixes a modest amount of meat or fish with some of the best vegetable creations I’ve ever tasted. Six very small dishes (snacks) are followed by homemade bread and butter, three more substantial dishes, and dessert for 78€. Perkins’ partner Laura Adrian has put together an incredible wine list that is heavy with organic and biodynamic producers, and her wine pairings for the tasting menu (55€) are spot on. On a practical note, there’s a private room that can be booked for 8-12 people, and the kitchen is known to accommodate a wide range of dietary issues with advance notice.

    Pirouette

    At this beautiful restaurant in the underserved district just north of Les Halles, serious technique is brought to bear on beautiful veggies and offal alike. The consistently delicious dishes, the polished room and the very good wine list all add up to something that’s much greater than the bargain prices should allow. There’s a prix fixe at lunch for only 15€, and diners can go à la carte at lunch or dinner for 36€. Chef Tomy Gousset departed in 2016 to open Tomy & Co, but Pirouette remains a solid bet.

    Ellsworth

    Address: 34 rue de Richelieu, 75001
    Hours: Open for dinner Wednesday through Saturday.
    Telephone: +33 1 42 60 59 66
    Website / Book Online / Facebook / Instagram

    Our Most Recent Visit

    Following their success with Verjus, where the more elaborate formula of dégustation + wine pairings has drawn a loyal following of happy locals and visiting celebrities, Braden Perkins and Laura Adrian have decided to open something more casual. Let’s call it “serious casual” because at Ellsworth (named for Perkins’ grandfather), foods that you might see at a county fair are elevated through careful sourcing and a sincere spirit of DIY. The fried chicken from Verjus Bar à Vins has moved over to Ellsworth, leaving the former as more of a place for drinks and snacks before or after dinner at Verjus

    David Toutain

    David Toutain, who brought acclaim to Agapé Substance before jumping ship back in December 2012, returned to the Paris scene with this signature restaurant in 2013. His meticulous and conceptual cooking highlights seasonal produce, with vegetables often playing the starring role. This is by no means a vegetarian restaurant, but Toutain's ability to bring out the beauty in oft-ignored roots reminds us of his former boss Alain Passard.

    Fish (La Boissonnerie)

    This popular restaurant and wine bar run by Drew Harre and Juan Sanchez is a sort of Anglo haven, excellent for a quick glass, a solo dinner at the bar, or for those times when you’re just tired of speaking French. The wine list is populated by small producers, many of them organic and bio-dynamic, with fair prices and plenty of options by the glass. They’re open every day, and we often find ourselves here on a Sunday or Monday when so many other restaurants are closed. Compared to their sister restaurant Semilla, the more gastronomic option across the street, Fish is the reliable bistro and a genuine Saint-Germain institution.

    52 Faubourg Saint Denis

    After L’Office and Le Richer (one of our favorite new openings of 2013), Charles Compagnon is back with another gift for the Faubourg. If he has run out of ideas for restaurant names, the same cannot be said for the dishes coming out of his kitchen. The compact menu with 3-4 choices per course contains plenty that we want to eat: well-roasted duck with coco beans, corn and kale, and an egg yolk ravioli with ham and mushrooms that was satisfyingly reminiscent of one of our favorite dishes at L’Office. Beyond the very good wine list, special attention has been paid to other liquids, starting with their own café Compagnon (roasted by Coutume), including a beer called La Maryse created in collaboration with Dirk Naudrs from De Proef, and finishing with a selection of very special small batch eaux de vie from Christoph Keller at the Stählemühle distillery. Like at Le Richer, this place is open every day with continuous service from 8am to midnight. No reservations, but you can wait (or eat, or drink) at the bar. 

    Frenchie

    Address: 5 Rue du Nil, 75002
    Hours: Open Monday-Friday for dinner. Open Thursday & Friday for lunch.
    Telephone: +33 1 40 39 96 19
    Book Online / Website / Facebook / Instagram

    COVID-19 UPDATE:
    During lockdown, Frenchie launched Frenchie to Go, a takeaway delivery service that it maintains following lockdown easing Tuesday-Saturday. Order the three- or four-course menus (complete with vegetarian options) online. Frenchie is also now open to dine-in; reserve online. It boasts a few tables on the pedestrianized rue du Nil available on a first-come, first-served basis.

    Verjus Bar à Vins

    This tiny space near the Palais Royal functions functions both as a neighborhood wine bar and as a holding tank for those waiting for their table at the restaurant upstairs. The printed wine list is filled with so many interesting bottles, and the ever-changing chalkboard list has plenty of options by the glass. The food options have changed several times over the years. Their famous fried chicken is no longer available here, having moved over to Ellsworth, but you can still order small plates to nibble with your wine. Options on the menu right now include veal tartare, house-made pork and duck terrine with pistachios, and warm Mont d’Or cheese with pickled mushrooms. Groups of more than two will have a hard time squeezing in, but the intimate space is perfect for an apéro before dinner upstairs or elsewhere in the neighborhood.

    Holybelly

    Pancakes, poached eggs and hearty seasonal fare served alongside excellent coffee sourced from Belleville Brûlerie in a sunny space along the Canal St. Martin. An international array of coffee preparations (flat whites, espressos, long blacks, cappuccinos, and very good “real deal” filtered coffee) are accompanied by hot chocolate made from homemade chocolate syrup and a selection of teas from Le Parti du Thé. The exceptionally friendly service is notable. Also notable, the lines for weekend brunch. Get there early.

    Papillon

    Address: 8, rue Messonier, 75017
    Hours: Open Monday-Friday for lunch & dinner. Closed Saturday & Sunday.
    Telephone: +33 1 56 79 81 88
    Website / Facebook / Instagram

    COVID-19 UPDATE:
    Papillon has reopened.

    Papillon in Photos

    Photos by Meg Zimbeck © Paris by Mouth

    In Other Words

    John Talbott (2016) “The best/most innovative meal I’ve had in 3 weeks.”

    Les Grands Ducs (2016) “La carte est courte, c’est le moins que l’on puisse dire, et le menu déjeuner (choix imposé), à 36 €, une toute relative bonne affaire. Mais le talent est là. Car côté cuisine, ce papillon ne manque pas de couleurs. Ni de  vivacité. L’influence des années Ducasse y est bien présente, dans une forme de simplicité et de vérité rendue au produit dont les saveurs sont présentées sans artifice inutile… Seuls gros bémols, un niveau sonore beaucoup trop bruyant et un service en surnombre et pourtant débordé.”

    Capucine

    Practical information

    Address: 159 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine, 75011
    Nearest transport: Faidherbe-Chaligny (8), Ledru-Rollin (8)
    Hours: Open Monday-Saturday 9am-10pm, Sunday 10am-10pm
    Reservations: Walk-ins welcome, but book a day or two in advance for lunch or dinner
    Telephone: 01 43 46 10 14
    Average price for lunch: 20-39€
    Average price for dinner: 20-39€
    Style of cuisine: Italian
    Facebook

    Reviews of interest

    Le Nouvel Observateur (2016) “Son restaurant Capucine, ouvert l’été dernier, compte déjà parmi les meilleures tables italiennes de Paris. Stefania Melis est l’une des chefs de file d’une nouvelle génération de chefs transalpins.”

    HiP Paris (2015) “The doors stay open all day, serving light dishes like a fresh tomato soup, carpaccio with arugula and parmesan, or ricotta and cherry tomato bruschetta. Stop by in the afternoon for a relaxed summer lunch or early in the eveningto savor Italian charcuterie and cheese plates with a glass of prosecco. For a little something sweet, don’t overlook the simple vanilla and apricot panna cotta. The café only offers smaller sharing plates and closes at 9pm, making it a good pick for an apéro before dinner”

    Le Fooding (2015) “Where in Paris can you savor… a supremely fresh sea bream carpaccio with cherries, drizzled with Cédric Casanova’s Sicilian olive oil, and served with a glass of Filippi Soave? Bite into incomparable, perfectly seasoned polpette in a sauce made with real tomatoes, while sipping on an ethereal glass of Montepulciano Cirelli? Rediscover the vanilla flavor of an ingenuous panna cotta with chopped peaches?”

    Le Figaro (2015) “Un lieu décontracté dans lequel on vient apprécier lasagnes, panino, raviolis, fromages et charcuteries.”

    Paris Bouge (2015) “Sur une carte bien éclectique ne laissant aucun incontournable italien au dépourvu (si ce n’est la pizza!), on retrouve entre autres: panino, lasagnes, raviolis, fromages et charcuteries. Ce jour-là on opte pour les polpette al sugo, juteuses boulettes de viande et ricotta, à la sauce tomate gorgée de soleil, puis parsemées de parmesan, voilà une simplicité des plus resplendissantes.”

    Time Out (2015) “Le Caffè dei Cioppi est mort, vive Capucine! Voilà un mal pour un bien. A la place du très regretté resto italien du faubourg Saint-Antoine, une délicieuse caffetteria à la mode transalpine a vu le jour, au mois de juillet.”

    A Nous Paris (2015) “Même esprit italo-rustique, même précision. Soupe de tomate froide (6€) – épais et savoureux –, polpette al sugo ou boulettes de veau à la sauce tomate (15€) – frais -, panna cotta aux brugnons (6€) – soyeux. Les vins – gentillets – suivent, sans plomber la note, à l’instar du montepulciano d’abruzzo de Cirelli (4€), et le café (2,20€) ponctue en beauté cette dînette.”

    Photo via Capucine’s Facebook page

    Bistrot Belhara

    A recent visit didn’t live up to the hype in which Thierry Dufroux’s Basque-inflected bistrot was declared “one of the revelations of 2013.” With the exception of a vanilla millefeuille with fresh strawberries, every dish was fine but forgettable. The wine list was uninspired and service was brisk and joyless. Three years ago, when most of this restaurant’s reviews were written, Belhara may have stood out as more exciting. It may have actually been more exciting back then. But today, when Paris is experiencing a renaissance of old-fashioned cuisine bourgeoise, Belhara doesn’t quite make it to Our Top 50 Paris Restaurants. Its saving grace: three courses for 38€ is still a great value for dinner in the 7ème near the Eiffel Tower. 

    Le 116

    Practical information

    Address: 2 rue Auguste Vacquerie, 75016
    Nearest transport: Kléber (6), George V (1)
    Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday; Open Monday-Friday for lunch & dinner
    Reservations: Book a day or two in advance for dinner only; Reservations not accepted for lunch
    Telephone: 01 47 20 10 45
    Average price for lunch: 20-39€
    Average price for dinner: 20-39€
    Style of cuisine: Small plates & tapas, Japanese
    Website   Facebook

    Reviews of interest

    Le Figaro (2015) “Cuisine foisonnante misant sur la braise (poulpe, poulette et ventrèche de porc en brochettes, grillés au barbecue japonais) et la malice: burger de bœuf wagyu, blé façon risotto, calamars en tempura…”

    Le Fooding (2015) “Lorsque Le 116 ranime les braises rougeoyantes du sumibiyaki (barbecue) au rare charbon Binchotan, et envoie sur céramiques Mami un tentacule de poulpe grillé à la chair attendrie, un calamar saisi à point, trait de citron et feuilles de persil, une ventrèche de saumon d’Ecosse ou de porc ibérique, une poulette du Pâtis, et de très belles pièces de bœuf wagyu Ozaki servies avec légumes grillés et « frites maison » – de gros quartiers de bintje cuits à l’eau, farinés et mis en friture.”

    Photo via Le 116’s Facebook page

    Lucas Carton

    Practical information

    Address: 9 place de la Madeleine, 75008
    Nearest transport: Madeleine (8, 12, 14)
    Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner
    Reservations: Book a few weeks in advance
    Telephone: 01 42 65 22 90
    Average price for lunch: 60-100€
    Average price for dinner: More than 100€
    Style of cuisine: Haute Cuisine
    Website   Facebook   Book Online

    Reviews of interest

    L’Express (2015) “Il dégaine des asperges vertes de Roques-Hautes superbes de croquant et de profondeur végétale, et les chatouilleavec une tapenade tonique olives vertes-fleurs de coriandre. Il cuirasse la noix de ris de veau d’une belle coloration croustillante et l’escorte de jeunes carottes aux graines de moutarde et d’un jus de veau sans bavure. Il envoie des rafales de pistaches de Bronte sur un valeureux pigeon rôti ou sur une irrésistible île flottante au coeur coulant de caramel.”

    Le Gabriel

    Practical information

    Address: 42 avenue Gabriel, 75008
    Nearest transport: Franklin Roosevelt (1, 9)
    Hours: Open every day for breakfast, lunch and dinner
    Reservations: Book a few days in advance for breakfast and lunch; Book a few weeks in advance for dinner
    Telephone: 01 58 36 60 60
    Average price for lunch: More than 100€
    Average price for dinner: More than 100€
    Style of cuisine: Classic French, Haute Cuisine
    Website   Book online

    Reviews of interest

    Le Monde (2015) “L’hôtel La Réserve abrite, près des Champs-Elysées, un beau restaurant dont le chef cultive une verve culinaire à tomber par terre.”

    Le Figaro (2015) “Même chez les grandes tables, il y a parfois cette volonté d’être à belle distance. L’éprouver, cette saison, en une parenthèse palace, du côté de cette table d’allure, soutenue par un chef signant et stylant une cuisine en talons hauts mais refusant avec pudeur les postures et les ego. Il y a là une gastronomie en charme discret que des chambres coquettes (à l’étage) et un opportun patio se plaisent à préfacer ou conclure.”

    Gault & Millau (2015) “Tout est doré sur tranche dans ce palace jeune et bien né : la situation rue Gabriel, si facile d’accès depuis l’Elysée, le cadre, le service, les tarifs et un chef talentueux, Jérôme Banctel, que l’on connut chez Senderens.”

    Gilles Pudlowski (2015) “Le brunch qui se prolonge en repas alerte est carrément royal: oeuf mimosa avec avocat façon guacamole et tourteau, tartare de veau aux huîtres et wasabi qui fait des clins d’oeil au vitello tonnato, ou encore salade de fruits sont épatants. Comme les « vrais » plats – macaroni au parmesan et boeuf croustillant, Saint Jacques et cèpes en civet ou encore côtes d’agneau de Lozère purée de butternut – enchantent.”

    Photo courtesy of  Le Gabriel’s website

     

    Restaurant Sylvestre

    Practical information

    Address: 79 rue Saint-Dominique, 75007
    Nearest transport: La Tour-Maubourg (8), Invalides (8, 13, RER C)
    Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Thursday & Friday for lunch and dinner; Open Tuesday, Wednesday & Saturday for dinner only
    Reservations: Book a few weeks in advance
    Telephone01 47 05 79 00
    Average price for lunch: 60-100€
    Average price for dinner: More than 100€
    Style of cuisine: Haute Cuisine
    Website   Facebook

    Reviews of interest

    Le Figaro (2016) “Venu de Courchevel, Sylvestre Wahid succède à Piège du côté de chez Thoumieux, manœuvre la berline de brasserie du rez-de-chaussée et ordonne, à l’étage, une gastronomie de force tranquille, sans esbroufe, d’un chic foncier, appliquée au saisonnier, consciencieuse à disposer en menu dédié (chair, mer, végétal) une cuisine renouant avec la générosité et ce vieux mot que l’on croyait usé: la gourmandise.”

    Le Monde (2015) “Chef  Sylvestre Wahid, doublement étoilé, propose une cuisine pleine d’humilité mais de très haute technicité… Sa cuisine lui ressemble: calme et aiguisée.”

    Gault & Millau (2015) “L’enjeu est énorme, mais le jeune chef, très confirmé, qui anima avec brio l’Oustau de Baumanière pendant des années, a les épaules assez larges, à la fois pour essuyer les plâtres et les critiques du début, et pour pose sa propre patte sur une carte à son effigie.”

    L’Express (2015) “Oeuf de poule, cèpes au fumet de truffes blanches en chaud-froid avec de la truffe blanche d’Alba finement rappée: Voici un plat signature qui se décline tout au long de l’année avec d’autres matières premières en accompagnement de l’oeuf. Gustativement, on comprend vite qu’on a affaire à une assiette gourmande parfaitement maitrisée au niveau des accords et du tempo. Une expérience que l’on aimerait renouveler lors d’une future déclinaison, juste pour voir si c’est aussi bon.”

    Photo via Hôtel Thoumieux’s Facebook page

    Elmer

    Address: 30 rue Notre-Dame de Nazareth, 75003
    Hours: Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch & dinner. Open Saturday for dinner only. Closed Sunday & Monday.
    Telephone: +33 1 43 56 22 95
    Website / Facebook / Instagram

    Our Review

    We’ve visited and will be posting our review soon. In the meantime, you can scroll to see photos and what others have said about Elmer. 

    Elmer in Pictures


    In Other Words

    John Talbott (2016) “They were among the best ribs I’ve ever had anywhere – moist on the inside, crispy on the outside, tasting of wood and Southern sauce.”

    Tiger

    On a busy street lined with touristy pubs near Saint Sulpice, Tiger is a cocktail-focused breath of fresh air. Gin & tonics are the specialty here, with more than six variations on the standard available, all made with Tiger’s homemade tonic. Other gin-based cocktails make up a strong part of the menu (think French 75 or martinez), and, as one might expect, the selections for individual gins are excellent, including a version from noted calvados producer Christian Drouin. Those seeking a little variety have other options in the form of a short classic cocktails menu, too. Vaguely Southeast Asian small plates are available, too, if you’re hungry, but the laidback atmosphere and fun cocktails are the true draw.

    Helmed by the gregarious Stanislas Jouenne, formerly at La Maison du Whisky, Tiger is a relaxed alternative to the other more serious (and more uptight) cocktail destination nearby, Prescription Club.

    Mabel

    Grilled cheese seems like the epitome of spontaneous late-night eats, yet you’ll want to make a reservation at Mabel if you’d like yours washed down with a cocktail. The small speakeasy-style bar nestled behind a family-friendly grilled cheese sandwich shop requires clients to be seated, which is great for a cozy tête-à-tête and less exciting for those who want to mingle. It also means that, while walk-ins are welcome, they could well be disappointed. If the sandwich alone is your poison, you’re better off visiting the street-facing shop,  where alongside the traditional a handful of other flavors including a classic tuna melt, vegetarian pepperoni, pulled pork, and rum marinated bacon with egg are on offer. They’re authentically greasy enough despite the virtues of seeded bread. 

    Biondi

    Practical information

    Address: 118 rue Amelot, 75011
    Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8), Oberkampf (5, 9)
    Hours: Closed Sunday; Open Monday-Saturday for lunch & dinner
    Reservations: Book a couple days in advance
    Telephone: 01 47 00 90 18
    Average price for lunch: 20-39€
    Average price for dinner: 40-59€
    Style of cuisine: Modern French, Argentinean
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    Reviews of interest

    Paris Bouge (2016) “De la côte de bœuf à partager pour deux, ris de veau ou Saint-Jacques jusqu’au duo langoustine et pomme de terres, la braise nourrie au feu de bois enflamme les assiettes à presque tous les coups! Et quand la flamme argentine s’estompe, on s’extasie devant un millefeuille au foie gras et anguille fumée d’anthologie : gras onctueux et fumaison fusionnent et s’électrifient à coups de pickles de betterave et d’un condiment agrumes.”

    Le Figaro (2016) “Cœur de bœuf fumé, déclinaison de topinambours: étonnant! Carré de sanglier, salsifis grillés, noisettes: charpenté. Tartelette aux pommes, camomille, citron vert: charmante variation de texture.”

    Le Fooding (2015) “On the lunch menu when we were there: an impeccable venison and hazelnut terrine surrounded by cornichons; perfectly cooked line-caught bass with an anchovy and bergamot emulsion that was as fresh as summer dew, enlivened by pink and green radishes; and a fairytale ending with the marriage of chestnut and a fromage blanc ice cream, which was a little over-the-top in terms of presentation.”

    Photo via Biondi’s Facebook page

    Mmmozza

    Address: 57, rue de Bretagne, 75003
    Hours: Open Tuesday-Thursday 10am-3pm, 4-8pm. Open Friday & Saturday 10am-8pm. Open Sunday 10am-2:30pm. Open Monday 10am-3pm, 5-8pm.
    Telephone: +33 1 42 71 82 98
    Facebook

    Mmmozza has one of the bbbest selections of mozzarella that you’ll find in the city, ranging from tiny bocconcini, to a baseball-sized burrata stuffed with black truffles, to an enormous braided rope of bufala mozzarella, hacked off by the slice. The skinny sliver of an Italian specialty shop has lines out the door at lunch for its messy, affordable sandwiches featuring fresh mozzarella, cured meats and vegetables, and arugula. When the weather is nice, there’s outdoor seating or you can chow down in the Square du Temple park directly opposite. A variety of imported prosciuttos and salamis, stuffed pastas, oils and vinegars, and a small but quality range of Italian wines are also available for purchase.

    Ravioli Chinois Nord-Est

    You’re not here for the bare-bones space or the bare-bones service, you’re here for the fresh dumplings, pure and simple. They’re cheap, abundant, and most importantly, good.

    There are usually 10 varieties on the menu including beef and turnip, pork and celery, shrimp & chive, and a great vegetarian mushroom option, all priced around €5 for a plate of 10, and served either grilled or boiled. The cucumber, peanut or noodle side salads are a good complement. Space inside is cramped, so plan on a short wait for a table, and don’t let the length of the queue put you off: Most are waiting for their goods to-go, no surprise when 100 frozen dumplings can be purchased for as little as €20.

    — Catherine Down, January 2016

    La Cave du Paul Bert

    Practical information

    Address: 16 rue Paul Bert, 75011
    Nearest transport: Rue des Boulets (9), Charonne (9), Faidherbe-Chaligny (8)
    Hours: Open every day
    Reservations: Reservations not accepted
    Telephone: 01 58 53 50 92
    Average price for lunch: 10-19€
    Average price for dinner: 10-19€
    Style of cuisine: Small plates

    A photo posted by Paris by Mouth (@parisbymouth) on

    Reviews of interest

    Le Figaro (2016) “À la Cave Paul Bert, les coudes contemporains trouvent à lever les classiques et les inattendus de cette vigne dite dynamique (même si parfois carrément éteinte) tout en scrutant le jour le jour d’une petite cuisine d’ardoise, vive, percutante, pertinente, un peu courte dans l’assiette mais généreuse à rappeler que le nouveau comptoir parisien balance aussi bien que les tapas ibères, izakaya nippons et autres cicchetti italiens.”

    Le Fooding (2016) “Des charcu-tueries et bien plus, car le chef montréalais, Louis-Philippe Riel, ancien du 6 Paul Bert, fait mieux qu’éponger l’apéro: œuf mayo aux truffes ; dinguerie de ris de veau aux coques et rattes; épaule de cerf braisée aux carottes et aïoli ; génial pressé de queue de bœuf, vinaigrette aux anchois et navets marinés…”

    Rococo

    Practical information

    Address: 4 rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin, 75010
    Nearest transport: Strasbourg-Saint-Denis (4, 8,9)
    Hours: Open every day noon-midnight
    Reservations: Reservations not accepted
    Telephone: 01 40 37 69 43
    Average price for lunch: 10-19€
    Average price for dinner: 10-19€
    Style of cuisine: Kebab and falafel
    Website   Facebook

    Reviews of interest

    Le Fooding (2015) “Un «fine kebab»… Servie en gamelles rondes avec des frites de petit calibre, la viande qui tourne débarque en trois versions: agneau broche (épaule et poitrine marinées citron/épices, oignon nouveau, caviar d’aubergine et sauce curry), cochon broche (échine de porc orange/moutarde) et agneau braisé (viande cuite au jus pimenté, pickles, harissa…), plus un kebab fallafels (boulettes de pois chiches, chou vinaigré, yaourt à l’ail et salsa d’herbes).”

    Paris Bouge (2015) “Notre crush: les boulettes de pois chiches, chou vinaigré, yaourt à l’ail et aux herbes, le tout servi avec des frites.”

    Figaroscope (2015) “Avec un pain moelleux, des marinades bien senties, et des viandes finement sélectionnées et cuisinées (cochon et agneau à la broche ou agneau braisé), Rococo fait déjà de nombreux adeptes.”

    Table à Découvert (2015) “Mousse au chocolat… Une densité comme je l’aime personnellement, un taux de gras proportionnel à celui de chocolat et de sucre, c’est à dire l’équilibre entre les trois. J’ai une image là soudain : le triangle équilatéral. Bref, elle est parfaite.”

    Photo via Rococo’s Facebook page

    Faggio

    Practical information

    Address: 72 rue de Rochechouart, 75009
    Nearest transport: Anvers (2)
    Hours: Closed Monday & Tuesday; Open Wednesday-Sunday for lunch and dinner
    Reservations: Walk-Ins Welcome
    Telephone: 01 40 37 44 02
    Average price for lunch: 20-39€
    Average price for dinner: 20-39€
    Style of cuisine: Italian & pizza
    Website   Facebook

    Reviews of interest

    Alexander Lobrano (2015) “At Faggio, it wasn’t that anyone was unfriendly, but rather that no one was going to acknowledge that you’d had a long wait before being fed. And of course the wine list was really top-heavy in terms of pricing, since the only way to make the rent if you’re running a pizzeria in Paris is to sell a good amount of pricey wine.”

    Figaroscope (2015) “Une dizaine de recettes à la carte (dont trois blanches), certaines faisant preuve d’une louable originalité, comme la Diavola, notre préférée, à base de sauce tomate, fior di latte, Nduja, oignons rouges, mozza fumée, saucisse piquante et pousses de moutarde, ou l’étonnante Vulcano, pizza farcie aux légumes ronde (et pas en demi-lune, comme le calzone classique). Résultat? Une pâte fine et croustillante, légèrement brûlée par endroits, et une garniture, sourcée avec soin, top qualité.”

    Paris Bouge (2015) “Les pizzas de Gioacchino Loria, un ex d’Il Brigante : une marque de reconnaissance qui éloigne tout soupçon de déception. Finesse extrême, croûte qui craquelle, brûlures réjouissantes par endroits, la pâte de ces pizzas est une vraie divinité. La sauce tomate, puissamment ensoleillée, est un modèle du genre.”

    L’Express (2015) “quand Fabien Lombardi, ex-bartender et cofondateur de l’Entrée des artistes, ouvre une pizzeria, il en résulte un loft brut de travaux doté d’un four à bois -du faggio (hêtre)- dompté avec dextérité par Gioacchino Loria, un pizzaiolo calabrais hors pair.”

    Photo courtesy of Faggio’s Facebook page

    Trois Fois Plus de Piment

    Practical information

    Address: 184 rue St Martin, 75003
    Nearest transport: Rambuteau (11)
    Hours: Closed Monday; Open Tuesday-Sunday for lunch and dinner
    Reservations: Walk-Ins Welcome
    Telephone: 06 52 66 75 31
    Average price for lunch: 10-19€
    Average price for dinner: 10-19€
    Style of cuisine: Chinese, Szechuan
    Facebook   Instagram

    Reviews of interest

    Time Out (2016) “On choisit ensuite son plat de pâtes (avec ou sans soupe) comme les Dan Dan (porc haché, cacahuètes, ciboulette) en indiquant le degré de piment que l’on souhaite sur une échelle de 1 à 5.  La serveuse, sans doute habituée aux Parisiens jackass, nous conseille d’opter pour un niveau 2 : et franchement c’est déjà assez hardcore. Outre le piment, le bouillon est très parfumé, les nouilles fraîches et le porc délicieux.”

    Le Fooding (2015) “Dedicated to Sichuan noodles and ravioli (100% homemade), the miniature menu written out by hand is pretty similar to the one at the mother house: pork dumplings served with chaozhou (a bitter and spicy sauce) or in a soup; really good noodles with ground pork in a sauce that’s been slow-cooked with grilled chilies; vermicelle noodles in vinegar.”

    Thrillist (2015) “The second outpost of beloved Deux Fois Plus de Piment, this indo-chinese restaurant will provide the spice you so rarely find (but so desperately need.)”

    Paris Bouge (2015) “Les moins aventureux opteront pour le niveau 1, avec des raviolis sichuanais à la pâte maison fondante et élastique comme il faut : le piment titille gentiment. Les nouilles Dan Dan relèvent un peu le jeu : des nouilles à la belle mâche, un juteux porc épicé, des cacahuètes qui croquent et une touche acidulé avec le vinaigre de riz. Niveau deux surpassé. Les plus audacieux se risqueront au niveau 5: défi lancé.”

    Maison Plisson

    Address: 93, boulevard Beaumarchais, 75003
    Hours: Open Monday 9:30am-9pm. Open Tuesday-Saturday 8:30am-9pm. Open Sunday 9am-8pm.
    Telephone: +33 1 71 18 19 09
    Website / Facebook / Instagram

    This sprawling 500m² space on the edge of the trendy Northern Marais does double duty. On one side, it’s an upscale market, boasting fresh fruits and vegetables, high quality cheeses, charcuterie, and deli items, as well as a bakery, an excellent selection of wines and a range of luxury local and imported grocery items. On the other, it’s a café, serving a small range of dishes made from ingredients sold next door. In a neighborhood surprisingly devoid of good grocery purveyors, the store is a revelation: The boulangerie turns out the best croissants for several blocks, the charcuterie is excellent and this is the go-to spot for top-notch pickles or proper English tea. With the Bastille market just around the corner customers might balk at the price of produce here, but if only kale will do, this is the store for you. In the café, the concise lunch menu offers very good – if overpriced – simple French classics. At a lower price point, and for smaller appetites, there’s also a nice selection of quiches, tartines and sandwiches.

    Gravity Bar

    Practical information

    Address: 43 rue des Vinaigriers, 75010
    Nearest transport: Jacques Bonsergent (5)
    Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday
    Reservations: Not Accepted
    Telephone: 06 11 84 21 76
    Average price for a cocktail:12€
    Average price for dinner:10-19€
    Style of cuisine: Small plates
    Facebook

    Reviews of interest

    Le Figaro (2016) “Un comptoir arrondi derrière lequel des barmen à casquette s’affairent à préparer des mixtures bien dosées, à base de gentiane notamment (12€ le verre). La clientèle de jeunes barbus et belles bohèmes apprécient l’ambiance un rien scandinave.”

    Le Fooding (2015) “Le Gravity, bar à manger du frais, exerce déjà son pouvoir d’attraction: c’est plein à craquer, extérieur compris.”

    52 Martinis (2015) “The selection is packed with ingredients that won’t be immediately recognizable to the average drinker: Gentiane Salers, Maurin Kina, Galliana Ristretto, etc. These kinds of non-mainstream ingredients (well known in the craft cocktail world, less so outside of it) can either elevate or crush a menu. And it takes a skilled professional to pull this off with aplomb. Fortunately, that’s exactly what they have with Michael Mas behind the bar.”

    Time Out (2015) “Les assiettes à partager finissent de nous séduire. De la vraie cuisine, imaginative et goûteuse, pour l’apéritif. Bonbons de saumon à l’érable et cacahuète, tataki de canard figue et pistache… Nos papilles frétillent et notre carte bleue se porte bien : toutes les assiettes sont à moins de 10 €. On mange bien, on boit bien et c’est beau.”

    Blackburn

    Practical information

    Address: 52 rue Faubourg Saint-Martin, 75010
    Nearest transport: Jacques Bonsergent (5)
    Hours: Open every day
    Reservations: Walk-Ins Welcome
    Telephone: 01 42 41 73 31
    Average price for lunch: 10-19€
    Style of cuisine: Soup, salad & sandwiches
    Website   Facebook

    Reviews of interest

    Sprudge (2015) “While the coffee is carefully selected, here the focus is more all-around cafe as opposed to coffee bar; it’s the entirety of Blackburn that’s important, not just what they’re serving. There are fresh juices if you’re not in a coffee mood, all food and most of the pastries are made in house, and there’s even an inviting couch at the back – a vintage Scandinavian model of course.”

    Good Coffee in Paris (2014) “… the awesomely understated Blackburn Café, content in its isolation and home to some excellent coffee… Coffee is à la demande (by request), with an interesting variation in the beans, which have origins as diverse as Indonesia, Ethiopia and Salvador. There are several seating options depending on how much conversation is desired, and  sections for reading and laptop work.

    Photo via Blackburn’s Facebook page

    Hakata Choten

    While the focus of this cheap and cheerful Japanese franchise is ostensibly the authentic tonkatsu ramen, the real highlight is the gyoza with a thick, crisp, seared crust and a juicy pork filling. The parent restaurant won the Prix du Concours National of Gyoza in Japan in 2004, and the dumplings truly are winners. The dining room is busy and the lines can be long, but the steaming bowls of ramen come out fast and are worth the wait. The counter seating on the bottom floor makes this a nice option for dining alone.

    — Catherine Down, September 2015