East meets west at William Ledeuil's much-lauded Ze Kitchen Galerie.
A destination restaurant for lovers of Burgundy wines, with an airy terrasse that’s available only at lunchtime. The dining room at night is heavy with leopard print and ostrich feather and can feel gaudy or groovy depending on how much Volnay one has consumed. The expensive cuisine is only fine, and it’s not at all the focus. People come here to spend on impressive bottles and because they’re unaccustomed to leaving the 7ème. It remains a good option at lunch when one can sit outside before or after a visit to the nearby Musée d’Orsay.
Mensae currently holds the #3 ranking in our list of favorite Modern & Creative Restaurants in Paris. In a simple dining room, way up on the Belleville hill and not far from the sprawling Buttes-Chaumont park, some of the best bistro fare in Paris is being served. Comfort food like frogs’ legs dripping in garlic butter and crispy pork belly with braised cabbage share space on the menu with brighter fare like confit trout with beets and horseradish, or a falling-apart lamb shoulder with creamy beans and preserved lemon. There’s a lunch menu at €20, a three-course dinner menu for €36, and a wine list with many good bottles for less than €35 – all of which make this an exceptional value for Paris.
Address: 30 rue Notre-Dame de Nazareth, 75003
Hours: Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch & dinner. Open Saturday for dinner only. Closed Sunday & Monday.
Telephone: +33 1 43 56 22 95
Website / Facebook / Instagram
We’ve visited and will be posting our review soon. In the meantime, you can scroll to see photos and what others have said about Elmer.
Elmer in Pictures
In Other Words
John Talbott (2016) “They were among the best ribs I’ve ever had anywhere – moist on the inside, crispy on the outside, tasting of wood and Southern sauce.”
Address: 118 rue Amelot, 75011
Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8), Oberkampf (5, 9)
Hours: Closed Sunday; Open Monday-Saturday for lunch & dinner
Reservations: Book a couple days in advance
Telephone: 01 47 00 90 18
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 40-59€
Style of cuisine: Modern French, Argentinean
Reviews of interest
Paris Bouge (2016) “De la côte de bœuf à partager pour deux, ris de veau ou Saint-Jacques jusqu’au duo langoustine et pomme de terres, la braise nourrie au feu de bois enflamme les assiettes à presque tous les coups! Et quand la flamme argentine s’estompe, on s’extasie devant un millefeuille au foie gras et anguille fumée d’anthologie : gras onctueux et fumaison fusionnent et s’électrifient à coups de pickles de betterave et d’un condiment agrumes.”
Le Figaro (2016) “Cœur de bœuf fumé, déclinaison de topinambours: étonnant! Carré de sanglier, salsifis grillés, noisettes: charpenté. Tartelette aux pommes, camomille, citron vert: charmante variation de texture.”
Le Fooding (2015) “On the lunch menu when we were there: an impeccable venison and hazelnut terrine surrounded by cornichons; perfectly cooked line-caught bass with an anchovy and bergamot emulsion that was as fresh as summer dew, enlivened by pink and green radishes; and a fairytale ending with the marriage of chestnut and a fromage blanc ice cream, which was a little over-the-top in terms of presentation.”
Photo via Biondi’s Facebook page
We have not yet reviewed this restaurant. Check back soon for our thoughts!
Address: 49 rue de l’Echiquier, 75010
Nearest transport: Bonne Nouvelle (8, 9)
Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday; Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 48 00 08 28
Average price for lunch: 40-59€
Average price for dinner: 40-59€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Website Facebook Book Online
A Mere in pictures
What people are saying
Simon Says (2016) “Ces plats cérébraux ne murmurant que par onomatopées sont servis par des barbus au verbe précis, inspirés, souvent plus intelligents que vous et forcément plus jeunes. Il y a une énergie massive, une colère lointaine ramassée en une assiette toute mignonne.”
The New York Times (2015) “Zillo serves original but shrewdly composed dishes like green tomatoes with raw yellow pollock, black currants and faisselle, a slightly sour fresh cheese. Inventive main courses — like lamb sweetbreads with roasted cauliflower, beets, rhubarb and muscat grapes — are hearty but fresh.”
Le Figaro (2015) “Une planque du Xe, un décor en chic sommaire, la cuisine dans la salle, le menu quasi twitté, bref, tout pour plaider le suivisme jusqu’à la petite révélation d’une cuisine dans l’appétence, construite, pas cossarde à travailler cuissons et liaisons.”
Alexander Lobrano (2015) “All dishes demonstrated that Zillo is a really interesting chef with a wonderful mastery of technique and a nervy new mastery of the scores of taste and texture. I didn’t find a signature in his cooking, yet, but knowing nothing about his mother, I can only assume that the word play in the restaurant’s name refers to his evident love of differing tones of bitterness and acidity as his vector of expression. Already a very good chef, he’s obviously going to become a serious culinary contender in Paris.”
Le Figaro (2015) “Le chef brésilien Mauricio Zillo propose une courte carte de saison, très créative, changeant régulièrement, avec des intitulés par trois volontairement déconcertants: figues, anguille, roscoff; tomates Green Zebra, maquereau, cassis; cabillaud, rognons, brocoli; veau, mirabelle, fenouil; pêche de vigne, réglisse, noisettes; framboise, moutarde, concombre.”
Le Fooding (2015) “The Brazilian chef composes a blasphemous menu that’s as concise as it is provocative for a handful of diners seated at the three tables and the bar at lunch and dinner… a bavaroise that was as crazy as it was mustardy, made with cucumber spaghetti, raspberries and shaved frozen oyster for dessert.”
Address: Bois de Boulogne, Route de Suresnes, 75016
Nearest transport: La Muette (9) or Avenue Henri Martin (RER C), then a 5-minute cab ride or half-hour walk
Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Book a month or more in advance
Telephone: +33 (0)1 44 14 41 14
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French, Haute Cuisine
Reviews of interest
L’assiette dans les étoiles (2012) “Côté addition, on est plutôt dans la moyenne basse des 3 macarons parisiens. Il faut compter environ 350 à 400€ par personne avec le grand menu et en buvant largement à sa soif. Cela reste cher mais pas exagéré, l’assiette et le service le méritent amplement.”
Critique gastronomique (2011) “Le(s) plus : Le pavillon Napoléon III, niché dans les profondeurs du Bois de Boulogne, le service.
Le(s) moins : Le repas plutôt décevant ainsi que l’addition “stratosphérique”.”
Food Snob (2009) “In creation, composition and construction, the chef seems to want to differentiate himself and shape a distinctive, identifiable style of his own. I admired his willingness (possibly even determination) to be different….But as I alluded to above, originality and inspiration in presentation are to be esteemed and encouraged, but should be applied precisely and effectively. I hate to see this taken too far with savours suffering for superficiality’s sake and I must confess that sometimes it felt like additional dishes and elements on those dishes were there for reasons other than to please my palate.”