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Holybelly

Breakfast with bacon and beans

Pancakes, poached eggs and hearty seasonal fare served alongside excellent coffee sourced from Belleville Brûlerie in a sunny space along the Canal St. Martin. An international array of coffee preparations (flat whites, espressos, long blacks, cappuccinos, and very good “real deal” filtered coffee) are accompanied by hot chocolate made from homemade chocolate syrup and a selection of teas from Le Parti du Thé. The exceptionally friendly service is notable. Also notable, the lines for weekend brunch. Get there early.

L’Ami Louis

Roast chicken at L'Ami Louis

Address: 32, rue Vertbois, 75003
Hours: Open Wednesday-Sunday for lunch & dinner. Closed Monday & Tuesday.
Telephone: +33 1 48 87 77 48
No website, no online booking, no Facebook, no Instagram

Papillon

Address: 8, rue Messonier, 75017
Hours: Open Monday-Friday for lunch & dinner. Closed Saturday & Sunday.
Telephone: +33 1 56 79 81 88
Website / Facebook / Instagram

COVID-19 UPDATE:
Papillon has reopened.

Papillon in Photos

Photos by Meg Zimbeck © Paris by Mouth

In Other Words

John Talbott (2016) “The best/most innovative meal I’ve had in 3 weeks.”

Les Grands Ducs (2016) “La carte est courte, c’est le moins que l’on puisse dire, et le menu déjeuner (choix imposé), à 36 €, une toute relative bonne affaire. Mais le talent est là. Car côté cuisine, ce papillon ne manque pas de couleurs. Ni de  vivacité. L’influence des années Ducasse y est bien présente, dans une forme de simplicité et de vérité rendue au produit dont les saveurs sont présentées sans artifice inutile… Seuls gros bémols, un niveau sonore beaucoup trop bruyant et un service en surnombre et pourtant débordé.”

Capucine

Practical information

Address: 159 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine, 75011
Nearest transport: Faidherbe-Chaligny (8), Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Open Monday-Saturday 9am-10pm, Sunday 10am-10pm
Reservations: Walk-ins welcome, but book a day or two in advance for lunch or dinner
Telephone: 01 43 46 10 14
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 20-39€
Style of cuisine: Italian
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Reviews of interest

Le Nouvel Observateur (2016) “Son restaurant Capucine, ouvert l’été dernier, compte déjà parmi les meilleures tables italiennes de Paris. Stefania Melis est l’une des chefs de file d’une nouvelle génération de chefs transalpins.”

HiP Paris (2015) “The doors stay open all day, serving light dishes like a fresh tomato soup, carpaccio with arugula and parmesan, or ricotta and cherry tomato bruschetta. Stop by in the afternoon for a relaxed summer lunch or early in the eveningto savor Italian charcuterie and cheese plates with a glass of prosecco. For a little something sweet, don’t overlook the simple vanilla and apricot panna cotta. The café only offers smaller sharing plates and closes at 9pm, making it a good pick for an apéro before dinner”

Le Fooding (2015) “Where in Paris can you savor… a supremely fresh sea bream carpaccio with cherries, drizzled with Cédric Casanova’s Sicilian olive oil, and served with a glass of Filippi Soave? Bite into incomparable, perfectly seasoned polpette in a sauce made with real tomatoes, while sipping on an ethereal glass of Montepulciano Cirelli? Rediscover the vanilla flavor of an ingenuous panna cotta with chopped peaches?”

Le Figaro (2015) “Un lieu décontracté dans lequel on vient apprécier lasagnes, panino, raviolis, fromages et charcuteries.”

Paris Bouge (2015) “Sur une carte bien éclectique ne laissant aucun incontournable italien au dépourvu (si ce n’est la pizza!), on retrouve entre autres: panino, lasagnes, raviolis, fromages et charcuteries. Ce jour-là on opte pour les polpette al sugo, juteuses boulettes de viande et ricotta, à la sauce tomate gorgée de soleil, puis parsemées de parmesan, voilà une simplicité des plus resplendissantes.”

Time Out (2015) “Le Caffè dei Cioppi est mort, vive Capucine! Voilà un mal pour un bien. A la place du très regretté resto italien du faubourg Saint-Antoine, une délicieuse caffetteria à la mode transalpine a vu le jour, au mois de juillet.”

A Nous Paris (2015) “Même esprit italo-rustique, même précision. Soupe de tomate froide (6€) – épais et savoureux –, polpette al sugo ou boulettes de veau à la sauce tomate (15€) – frais -, panna cotta aux brugnons (6€) – soyeux. Les vins – gentillets – suivent, sans plomber la note, à l’instar du montepulciano d’abruzzo de Cirelli (4€), et le café (2,20€) ponctue en beauté cette dînette.”

Photo via Capucine’s Facebook page

Bistrot Belhara

A recent visit didn’t live up to the hype in which Thierry Dufroux’s Basque-inflected bistrot was declared “one of the revelations of 2013.” With the exception of a vanilla millefeuille with fresh strawberries, every dish was fine but forgettable. The wine list was uninspired and service was brisk and joyless. Three years ago, when most of this restaurant’s reviews were written, Belhara may have stood out as more exciting. It may have actually been more exciting back then. But today, when Paris is experiencing a renaissance of old-fashioned cuisine bourgeoise, Belhara doesn’t quite make it to Our Top 50 Paris Restaurants. Its saving grace: three courses for 38€ is still a great value for dinner in the 7ème near the Eiffel Tower. 

Mensae

Lamb with white beans

Mensae is a contemporary French bistro not far from the sprawling Buttes-Chaumont park. Classics like frogs' legs and steak tartare are frequently featured on the ever-changing menu, revisited with a contemporary bent and more reasonable portion size than the behemoths found in other restaurants. Don't miss the chocolate mousse for dessert.

Le 116

Practical information

Address: 2 rue Auguste Vacquerie, 75016
Nearest transport: Kléber (6), George V (1)
Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday; Open Monday-Friday for lunch & dinner
Reservations: Book a day or two in advance for dinner only; Reservations not accepted for lunch
Telephone: 01 47 20 10 45
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 20-39€
Style of cuisine: Small plates & tapas, Japanese
Website   Facebook

Reviews of interest

Le Figaro (2015) “Cuisine foisonnante misant sur la braise (poulpe, poulette et ventrèche de porc en brochettes, grillés au barbecue japonais) et la malice: burger de bœuf wagyu, blé façon risotto, calamars en tempura…”

Le Fooding (2015) “Lorsque Le 116 ranime les braises rougeoyantes du sumibiyaki (barbecue) au rare charbon Binchotan, et envoie sur céramiques Mami un tentacule de poulpe grillé à la chair attendrie, un calamar saisi à point, trait de citron et feuilles de persil, une ventrèche de saumon d’Ecosse ou de porc ibérique, une poulette du Pâtis, et de très belles pièces de bœuf wagyu Ozaki servies avec légumes grillés et « frites maison » – de gros quartiers de bintje cuits à l’eau, farinés et mis en friture.”

Photo via Le 116’s Facebook page

Lucas Carton

Practical information

Address: 9 place de la Madeleine, 75008
Nearest transport: Madeleine (8, 12, 14)
Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Book a few weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 42 65 22 90
Average price for lunch: 60-100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Haute Cuisine
Website   Facebook   Book Online

Reviews of interest

L’Express (2015) “Il dégaine des asperges vertes de Roques-Hautes superbes de croquant et de profondeur végétale, et les chatouilleavec une tapenade tonique olives vertes-fleurs de coriandre. Il cuirasse la noix de ris de veau d’une belle coloration croustillante et l’escorte de jeunes carottes aux graines de moutarde et d’un jus de veau sans bavure. Il envoie des rafales de pistaches de Bronte sur un valeureux pigeon rôti ou sur une irrésistible île flottante au coeur coulant de caramel.”

Le Gabriel

Practical information

Address: 42 avenue Gabriel, 75008
Nearest transport: Franklin Roosevelt (1, 9)
Hours: Open every day for breakfast, lunch and dinner
Reservations: Book a few days in advance for breakfast and lunch; Book a few weeks in advance for dinner
Telephone: 01 58 36 60 60
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, Haute Cuisine
Website   Book online

Reviews of interest

Le Monde (2015) “L’hôtel La Réserve abrite, près des Champs-Elysées, un beau restaurant dont le chef cultive une verve culinaire à tomber par terre.”

Le Figaro (2015) “Même chez les grandes tables, il y a parfois cette volonté d’être à belle distance. L’éprouver, cette saison, en une parenthèse palace, du côté de cette table d’allure, soutenue par un chef signant et stylant une cuisine en talons hauts mais refusant avec pudeur les postures et les ego. Il y a là une gastronomie en charme discret que des chambres coquettes (à l’étage) et un opportun patio se plaisent à préfacer ou conclure.”

Gault & Millau (2015) “Tout est doré sur tranche dans ce palace jeune et bien né : la situation rue Gabriel, si facile d’accès depuis l’Elysée, le cadre, le service, les tarifs et un chef talentueux, Jérôme Banctel, que l’on connut chez Senderens.”

Gilles Pudlowski (2015) “Le brunch qui se prolonge en repas alerte est carrément royal: oeuf mimosa avec avocat façon guacamole et tourteau, tartare de veau aux huîtres et wasabi qui fait des clins d’oeil au vitello tonnato, ou encore salade de fruits sont épatants. Comme les « vrais » plats – macaroni au parmesan et boeuf croustillant, Saint Jacques et cèpes en civet ou encore côtes d’agneau de Lozère purée de butternut – enchantent.”

Photo courtesy of  Le Gabriel’s website

 

Restaurant Sylvestre

Practical information

Address: 79 rue Saint-Dominique, 75007
Nearest transport: La Tour-Maubourg (8), Invalides (8, 13, RER C)
Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Thursday & Friday for lunch and dinner; Open Tuesday, Wednesday & Saturday for dinner only
Reservations: Book a few weeks in advance
Telephone01 47 05 79 00
Average price for lunch: 60-100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Haute Cuisine
Website   Facebook

Reviews of interest

Le Figaro (2016) “Venu de Courchevel, Sylvestre Wahid succède à Piège du côté de chez Thoumieux, manœuvre la berline de brasserie du rez-de-chaussée et ordonne, à l’étage, une gastronomie de force tranquille, sans esbroufe, d’un chic foncier, appliquée au saisonnier, consciencieuse à disposer en menu dédié (chair, mer, végétal) une cuisine renouant avec la générosité et ce vieux mot que l’on croyait usé: la gourmandise.”

Le Monde (2015) “Chef  Sylvestre Wahid, doublement étoilé, propose une cuisine pleine d’humilité mais de très haute technicité… Sa cuisine lui ressemble: calme et aiguisée.”

Gault & Millau (2015) “L’enjeu est énorme, mais le jeune chef, très confirmé, qui anima avec brio l’Oustau de Baumanière pendant des années, a les épaules assez larges, à la fois pour essuyer les plâtres et les critiques du début, et pour pose sa propre patte sur une carte à son effigie.”

L’Express (2015) “Oeuf de poule, cèpes au fumet de truffes blanches en chaud-froid avec de la truffe blanche d’Alba finement rappée: Voici un plat signature qui se décline tout au long de l’année avec d’autres matières premières en accompagnement de l’oeuf. Gustativement, on comprend vite qu’on a affaire à une assiette gourmande parfaitement maitrisée au niveau des accords et du tempo. Une expérience que l’on aimerait renouveler lors d’une future déclinaison, juste pour voir si c’est aussi bon.”

Photo via Hôtel Thoumieux’s Facebook page

Elmer

Challans duck with quince and caramelized endives

Address: 30 rue Notre-Dame de Nazareth, 75003
Hours: Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch & dinner. Open Saturday for dinner only. Closed Sunday & Monday.
Telephone: +33 1 43 56 22 95
Website / Facebook / Instagram

Our Review

We’ve visited and will be posting our review soon. In the meantime, you can scroll to see photos and what others have said about Elmer. 

Elmer in Pictures


In Other Words

John Talbott (2016) “They were among the best ribs I’ve ever had anywhere – moist on the inside, crispy on the outside, tasting of wood and Southern sauce.”

Tiger

On a busy street lined with touristy pubs near Saint Sulpice, Tiger is a cocktail-focused breath of fresh air. Gin & tonics are the specialty here, with more than six variations on the standard available, all made with Tiger’s homemade tonic. Other gin-based cocktails make up a strong part of the menu (think French 75 or martinez), and, as one might expect, the selections for individual gins are excellent, including a version from noted calvados producer Christian Drouin. Those seeking a little variety have other options in the form of a short classic cocktails menu, too. Vaguely Southeast Asian small plates are available, too, if you’re hungry, but the laidback atmosphere and fun cocktails are the true draw.

Helmed by the gregarious Stanislas Jouenne, formerly at La Maison du Whisky, Tiger is a relaxed alternative to the other more serious (and more uptight) cocktail destination nearby, Prescription Club.

Baton Rouge – NOW CLOSED

Bayou-themed Baton Rouge is a high-end dive that’s strategically manufactured, but still thoroughly enjoyable. It’s rowdy, rollicking good fun; the tone is set by the twangy soundtrack and good-natured staff, who set down a bowl of peanuts immediately upon your arrival and actively encourage you to throw your shells on the floor.

The atmosphere, ripe with plastic alligators, could potentially feel silly, but it’s saved by the cocktails which are anything but. Partners Joseph Biolatto of Le Forum and Julien Escot of noted bar Papa Doble in Montpellier have curated a mixture of pricey bottle-aged cocktails, unusual (for Paris) milk punches, classic American highballs, a variety of old-fashioneds, a cherry-tinged take on New Orleans staple the sazerac, and an original Baton Rouge creation of cognac, absinthe, and vermouth topped with champagne. The cheeky presentation features red Solo cups garnished with paper umbrellas for true American frat party style, or a stroop waffle on top of a bottle for a milk punch.

It’s interesting to see a Parisian bar delve into regionally specific American comfort foods such as shrimp poboys, muffaletta sandwiches and BBQ ribs.  While I wouldn’t exactly call the po boy authentic, as that would require the shrimp to be deep-fried and served on an actual hoagie roll, it was tastier than a hot mayonnaise sandwich with a few seared shrimp has any right to be. It’s sloppy, fun, drunk food that didn’t cost a fortune and although not perfect, it does the trick to sop up all the sazeracs.

Catherine Down, January 2016

Mabel

Grilled cheese seems like the epitome of spontaneous late-night eats, yet you’ll want to make a reservation at Mabel if you’d like yours washed down with a cocktail. The small speakeasy-style bar nestled behind a family-friendly grilled cheese sandwich shop requires clients to be seated, which is great for a cozy tête-à-tête and less exciting for those who want to mingle. It also means that, while walk-ins are welcome, they could well be disappointed. If the sandwich alone is your poison, you’re better off visiting the street-facing shop,  where alongside the traditional a handful of other flavors including a classic tuna melt, vegetarian pepperoni, pulled pork, and rum marinated bacon with egg are on offer. They’re authentically greasy enough despite the virtues of seeded bread. 

Biondi

Practical information

Address: 118 rue Amelot, 75011
Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8), Oberkampf (5, 9)
Hours: Closed Sunday; Open Monday-Saturday for lunch & dinner
Reservations: Book a couple days in advance
Telephone: 01 47 00 90 18
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 40-59€
Style of cuisine: Modern French, Argentinean
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Reviews of interest

Paris Bouge (2016) “De la côte de bœuf à partager pour deux, ris de veau ou Saint-Jacques jusqu’au duo langoustine et pomme de terres, la braise nourrie au feu de bois enflamme les assiettes à presque tous les coups! Et quand la flamme argentine s’estompe, on s’extasie devant un millefeuille au foie gras et anguille fumée d’anthologie : gras onctueux et fumaison fusionnent et s’électrifient à coups de pickles de betterave et d’un condiment agrumes.”

Le Figaro (2016) “Cœur de bœuf fumé, déclinaison de topinambours: étonnant! Carré de sanglier, salsifis grillés, noisettes: charpenté. Tartelette aux pommes, camomille, citron vert: charmante variation de texture.”

Le Fooding (2015) “On the lunch menu when we were there: an impeccable venison and hazelnut terrine surrounded by cornichons; perfectly cooked line-caught bass with an anchovy and bergamot emulsion that was as fresh as summer dew, enlivened by pink and green radishes; and a fairytale ending with the marriage of chestnut and a fromage blanc ice cream, which was a little over-the-top in terms of presentation.”

Photo via Biondi’s Facebook page

Mmmozza

Address: 57, rue de Bretagne, 75003
Hours: Open Tuesday-Thursday 10am-3pm, 4-8pm. Open Friday & Saturday 10am-8pm. Open Sunday 10am-2:30pm. Open Monday 10am-3pm, 5-8pm.
Telephone: +33 1 42 71 82 98
Facebook

Mmmozza has one of the bbbest selections of mozzarella that you’ll find in the city, ranging from tiny bocconcini, to a baseball-sized burrata stuffed with black truffles, to an enormous braided rope of bufala mozzarella, hacked off by the slice. The skinny sliver of an Italian specialty shop has lines out the door at lunch for its messy, affordable sandwiches featuring fresh mozzarella, cured meats and vegetables, and arugula. When the weather is nice, there’s outdoor seating or you can chow down in the Square du Temple park directly opposite. A variety of imported prosciuttos and salamis, stuffed pastas, oils and vinegars, and a small but quality range of Italian wines are also available for purchase.

Ravioli Chinois Nord-Est

You’re not here for the bare-bones space or the bare-bones service, you’re here for the fresh dumplings, pure and simple. They’re cheap, abundant, and most importantly, good.

There are usually 10 varieties on the menu including beef and turnip, pork and celery, shrimp & chive, and a great vegetarian mushroom option, all priced around €5 for a plate of 10, and served either grilled or boiled. The cucumber, peanut or noodle side salads are a good complement. Space inside is cramped, so plan on a short wait for a table, and don’t let the length of the queue put you off: Most are waiting for their goods to-go, no surprise when 100 frozen dumplings can be purchased for as little as €20.

— Catherine Down, January 2016

La Cave du Paul Bert

Practical information

Address: 16 rue Paul Bert, 75011
Nearest transport: Rue des Boulets (9), Charonne (9), Faidherbe-Chaligny (8)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 58 53 50 92
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Small plates

A photo posted by Paris by Mouth (@parisbymouth) on

Reviews of interest

Le Figaro (2016) “À la Cave Paul Bert, les coudes contemporains trouvent à lever les classiques et les inattendus de cette vigne dite dynamique (même si parfois carrément éteinte) tout en scrutant le jour le jour d’une petite cuisine d’ardoise, vive, percutante, pertinente, un peu courte dans l’assiette mais généreuse à rappeler que le nouveau comptoir parisien balance aussi bien que les tapas ibères, izakaya nippons et autres cicchetti italiens.”

Le Fooding (2016) “Des charcu-tueries et bien plus, car le chef montréalais, Louis-Philippe Riel, ancien du 6 Paul Bert, fait mieux qu’éponger l’apéro: œuf mayo aux truffes ; dinguerie de ris de veau aux coques et rattes; épaule de cerf braisée aux carottes et aïoli ; génial pressé de queue de bœuf, vinaigrette aux anchois et navets marinés…”

Rococo

Practical information

Address: 4 rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin, 75010
Nearest transport: Strasbourg-Saint-Denis (4, 8,9)
Hours: Open every day noon-midnight
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 40 37 69 43
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Kebab and falafel
Website   Facebook

Reviews of interest

Le Fooding (2015) “Un «fine kebab»… Servie en gamelles rondes avec des frites de petit calibre, la viande qui tourne débarque en trois versions: agneau broche (épaule et poitrine marinées citron/épices, oignon nouveau, caviar d’aubergine et sauce curry), cochon broche (échine de porc orange/moutarde) et agneau braisé (viande cuite au jus pimenté, pickles, harissa…), plus un kebab fallafels (boulettes de pois chiches, chou vinaigré, yaourt à l’ail et salsa d’herbes).”

Paris Bouge (2015) “Notre crush: les boulettes de pois chiches, chou vinaigré, yaourt à l’ail et aux herbes, le tout servi avec des frites.”

Figaroscope (2015) “Avec un pain moelleux, des marinades bien senties, et des viandes finement sélectionnées et cuisinées (cochon et agneau à la broche ou agneau braisé), Rococo fait déjà de nombreux adeptes.”

Table à Découvert (2015) “Mousse au chocolat… Une densité comme je l’aime personnellement, un taux de gras proportionnel à celui de chocolat et de sucre, c’est à dire l’équilibre entre les trois. J’ai une image là soudain : le triangle équilatéral. Bref, elle est parfaite.”

Photo via Rococo’s Facebook page

Faggio

Practical information

Address: 72 rue de Rochechouart, 75009
Nearest transport: Anvers (2)
Hours: Closed Monday & Tuesday; Open Wednesday-Sunday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Walk-Ins Welcome
Telephone: 01 40 37 44 02
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 20-39€
Style of cuisine: Italian & pizza
Website   Facebook

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2015) “At Faggio, it wasn’t that anyone was unfriendly, but rather that no one was going to acknowledge that you’d had a long wait before being fed. And of course the wine list was really top-heavy in terms of pricing, since the only way to make the rent if you’re running a pizzeria in Paris is to sell a good amount of pricey wine.”

Figaroscope (2015) “Une dizaine de recettes à la carte (dont trois blanches), certaines faisant preuve d’une louable originalité, comme la Diavola, notre préférée, à base de sauce tomate, fior di latte, Nduja, oignons rouges, mozza fumée, saucisse piquante et pousses de moutarde, ou l’étonnante Vulcano, pizza farcie aux légumes ronde (et pas en demi-lune, comme le calzone classique). Résultat? Une pâte fine et croustillante, légèrement brûlée par endroits, et une garniture, sourcée avec soin, top qualité.”

Paris Bouge (2015) “Les pizzas de Gioacchino Loria, un ex d’Il Brigante : une marque de reconnaissance qui éloigne tout soupçon de déception. Finesse extrême, croûte qui craquelle, brûlures réjouissantes par endroits, la pâte de ces pizzas est une vraie divinité. La sauce tomate, puissamment ensoleillée, est un modèle du genre.”

L’Express (2015) “quand Fabien Lombardi, ex-bartender et cofondateur de l’Entrée des artistes, ouvre une pizzeria, il en résulte un loft brut de travaux doté d’un four à bois -du faggio (hêtre)- dompté avec dextérité par Gioacchino Loria, un pizzaiolo calabrais hors pair.”

Photo courtesy of Faggio’s Facebook page

Trois Fois Plus de Piment

Practical information

Address: 184 rue St Martin, 75003
Nearest transport: Rambuteau (11)
Hours: Closed Monday; Open Tuesday-Sunday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Walk-Ins Welcome
Telephone: 06 52 66 75 31
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Chinese, Szechuan
Facebook   Instagram

Reviews of interest

Time Out (2016) “On choisit ensuite son plat de pâtes (avec ou sans soupe) comme les Dan Dan (porc haché, cacahuètes, ciboulette) en indiquant le degré de piment que l’on souhaite sur une échelle de 1 à 5.  La serveuse, sans doute habituée aux Parisiens jackass, nous conseille d’opter pour un niveau 2 : et franchement c’est déjà assez hardcore. Outre le piment, le bouillon est très parfumé, les nouilles fraîches et le porc délicieux.”

Le Fooding (2015) “Dedicated to Sichuan noodles and ravioli (100% homemade), the miniature menu written out by hand is pretty similar to the one at the mother house: pork dumplings served with chaozhou (a bitter and spicy sauce) or in a soup; really good noodles with ground pork in a sauce that’s been slow-cooked with grilled chilies; vermicelle noodles in vinegar.”

Thrillist (2015) “The second outpost of beloved Deux Fois Plus de Piment, this indo-chinese restaurant will provide the spice you so rarely find (but so desperately need.)”

Paris Bouge (2015) “Les moins aventureux opteront pour le niveau 1, avec des raviolis sichuanais à la pâte maison fondante et élastique comme il faut : le piment titille gentiment. Les nouilles Dan Dan relèvent un peu le jeu : des nouilles à la belle mâche, un juteux porc épicé, des cacahuètes qui croquent et une touche acidulé avec le vinaigre de riz. Niveau deux surpassé. Les plus audacieux se risqueront au niveau 5: défi lancé.”

Maison Plisson

Address: 93, boulevard Beaumarchais, 75003
Hours: Open Monday 9:30am-9pm. Open Tuesday-Saturday 8:30am-9pm. Open Sunday 9am-8pm.
Telephone: +33 1 71 18 19 09
Website / Facebook / Instagram

This sprawling 500m² space on the edge of the trendy Northern Marais does double duty. On one side, it’s an upscale market, boasting fresh fruits and vegetables, high quality cheeses, charcuterie, and deli items, as well as a bakery, an excellent selection of wines and a range of luxury local and imported grocery items. On the other, it’s a café, serving a small range of dishes made from ingredients sold next door. In a neighborhood surprisingly devoid of good grocery purveyors, the store is a revelation: The boulangerie turns out the best croissants for several blocks, the charcuterie is excellent and this is the go-to spot for top-notch pickles or proper English tea. With the Bastille market just around the corner customers might balk at the price of produce here, but if only kale will do, this is the store for you. In the café, the concise lunch menu offers very good – if overpriced – simple French classics. At a lower price point, and for smaller appetites, there’s also a nice selection of quiches, tartines and sandwiches.

Gravity Bar

Practical information

Address: 43 rue des Vinaigriers, 75010
Nearest transport: Jacques Bonsergent (5)
Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday
Reservations: Not Accepted
Telephone: 06 11 84 21 76
Average price for a cocktail:12€
Average price for dinner:10-19€
Style of cuisine: Small plates
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Reviews of interest

Le Figaro (2016) “Un comptoir arrondi derrière lequel des barmen à casquette s’affairent à préparer des mixtures bien dosées, à base de gentiane notamment (12€ le verre). La clientèle de jeunes barbus et belles bohèmes apprécient l’ambiance un rien scandinave.”

Le Fooding (2015) “Le Gravity, bar à manger du frais, exerce déjà son pouvoir d’attraction: c’est plein à craquer, extérieur compris.”

52 Martinis (2015) “The selection is packed with ingredients that won’t be immediately recognizable to the average drinker: Gentiane Salers, Maurin Kina, Galliana Ristretto, etc. These kinds of non-mainstream ingredients (well known in the craft cocktail world, less so outside of it) can either elevate or crush a menu. And it takes a skilled professional to pull this off with aplomb. Fortunately, that’s exactly what they have with Michael Mas behind the bar.”

Time Out (2015) “Les assiettes à partager finissent de nous séduire. De la vraie cuisine, imaginative et goûteuse, pour l’apéritif. Bonbons de saumon à l’érable et cacahuète, tataki de canard figue et pistache… Nos papilles frétillent et notre carte bleue se porte bien : toutes les assiettes sont à moins de 10 €. On mange bien, on boit bien et c’est beau.”

Blackburn

Practical information

Address: 52 rue Faubourg Saint-Martin, 75010
Nearest transport: Jacques Bonsergent (5)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Walk-Ins Welcome
Telephone: 01 42 41 73 31
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Soup, salad & sandwiches
Website   Facebook

Reviews of interest

Sprudge (2015) “While the coffee is carefully selected, here the focus is more all-around cafe as opposed to coffee bar; it’s the entirety of Blackburn that’s important, not just what they’re serving. There are fresh juices if you’re not in a coffee mood, all food and most of the pastries are made in house, and there’s even an inviting couch at the back – a vintage Scandinavian model of course.”

Good Coffee in Paris (2014) “… the awesomely understated Blackburn Café, content in its isolation and home to some excellent coffee… Coffee is à la demande (by request), with an interesting variation in the beans, which have origins as diverse as Indonesia, Ethiopia and Salvador. There are several seating options depending on how much conversation is desired, and  sections for reading and laptop work.

Photo via Blackburn’s Facebook page

Hakata Choten

While the focus of this cheap and cheerful Japanese franchise is ostensibly the authentic tonkatsu ramen, the real highlight is the gyoza with a thick, crisp, seared crust and a juicy pork filling. The parent restaurant won the Prix du Concours National of Gyoza in Japan in 2004, and the dumplings truly are winners. The dining room is busy and the lines can be long, but the steaming bowls of ramen come out fast and are worth the wait. The counter seating on the bottom floor makes this a nice option for dining alone.

— Catherine Down, September 2015

Dilia

Practical information

Address: 1 rue d’Eupatoria, 75020
Nearest transport: Ménilmontant (2)
Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinner
Reservations: Book a few weeks in advance
Telephone: 09 53 56 24 14
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 40-59€
Style of cuisine: Italian
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Reviews of interest

Table à Découvert (2015) “Une assiette étrange à l’arrivée, je me souvenais juste que j’avais commandé le Saint-Pierre. En fait, le filet ferme et délicieux apparaît sous une belle couche d’herbes réduites en purée, il y a juste une ou deux petites branches de thym qui apparaissent encore. C’est sacrément vert, frais et d’une belle couleur chlorophyllée. Un peu de ricotta pour la douceur, des branches et des feuilles de chicorée juste saisies, je me régale. Et pour tout vous dire, je découvre le poisson dans une version végétale, brute, un peu amère et à la fois douce de ricotta.”

Alexander Lobrano (2015) “He’s a solidly talented cook with some great ideas, and his team is lovely, and once they find someone to make all the pieces fit together, Dilia just may become a restaurant that solidly lives up to all of the early hype.”

The New York Times (2015) “His modern take on hometown classics, like mussels with cabbage, surprise and delight. And dishes like rigatoni with pigeon gizzards, mint and Pecorino, and a silky sabayon-like egg cream spiked with lime zest marry, with little effort, untraditional tastes and textures.”

Paris Bouge (2015) “Une bonite juste à l’huile et sa chair qui se déchire de tendreté: douceur. Gnocchi betterave, huître, raifort : délicieusement tonique, profond, l’iode et la terre ; tout comme ce cœur de canard, bulots et girolles mais qui accorde plus difficilement l’océan et le terrestre. Ode à l’Italie avec un cabillaud, spaghetti al dente de pommes de terre et une eau de tomate ensoleillée qui nous mène en deux temps trois mouvements à Capri.”

Le Figaro (2015) “Exit le Roseval qui, sans bousculer son décor post-bohème, se découvre une fraîche bande emmenée par un chef italien, non dénué de brio et malin à calmer le jeu mignard de la jeune scène, au profit d’une cuisine de style et de sève toute en maîtrise. Un chic d’auberge!

Le Fooding (2015) “Trattoria-spheric at lunch, the menu propels you even higher at dinnertime… We had a a mélange of chicken, eel, verbena and fregula in a crystalline bouillon, with a French kiss of bonito à l’huile; stupefying, incredibly soft and deep crimson beet gnocchi with salty notes from a warm oyster and horseradish sprouts; Tuscan codall’isolana (with onions and tomatoes) with practically raw potato spaghetti; miraculous pigeon suprême and thigh, red orach (spinach’s bitter cousin) and red currants; spaghetti with mussels and lime zest confit; and grilled skewered duck with whelks and chanterelles for an autumnal touch, before a trio of desserts…”

Photo courtesy of Dilia’s Facebook page

A Mere – NOW CLOSED

Practical information

Address: 49 rue de l’Echiquier, 75010
Nearest transport: Bonne Nouvelle (8, 9)
Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday; Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 48 00 08 28
Average price for lunch: 40-59€
Average price for dinner: 40-59€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
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A Mere in pictures

What people are saying

Simon Says (2016) “Ces plats cérébraux ne murmurant que par onomatopées sont servis par des barbus au verbe précis, inspirés, souvent plus intelligents que vous et forcément plus jeunes. Il y a une énergie massive, une colère lointaine ramassée en une assiette toute mignonne.”

The New York Times (2015) “Zillo serves original but shrewdly composed dishes like green tomatoes with raw yellow pollock, black currants and faisselle, a slightly sour fresh cheese. Inventive main courses — like lamb sweetbreads with roasted cauliflower, beets, rhubarb and muscat grapes — are hearty but fresh.”

Le Figaro (2015) “Une planque du Xe, un décor en chic sommaire, la cuisine dans la salle, le menu quasi twitté, bref, tout pour plaider le suivisme jusqu’à la petite révélation d’une cuisine dans l’appétence, construite, pas cossarde à travailler cuissons et liaisons.”

Alexander Lobrano (2015) “All dishes demonstrated that Zillo is a really interesting chef with a wonderful mastery of technique and a nervy new mastery of the scores of taste and texture. I didn’t find a signature in his cooking, yet, but knowing nothing about his mother, I can only assume that the word play in the restaurant’s name refers to his evident love of differing tones of bitterness and acidity as his vector of expression. Already a very good chef, he’s obviously going to become a serious culinary contender in Paris.”

Le Figaro (2015) “Le chef brésilien Mauricio Zillo propose une courte carte de saison, très créative, changeant régulièrement, avec des intitulés par trois volontairement déconcertants: figues, anguille, roscoff; tomates Green Zebra, maquereau, cassis; cabillaud, rognons, brocoli; veau, mirabelle, fenouil; pêche de vigne, réglisse, noisettes; framboise, moutarde, concombre.”

Le Fooding (2015) “The Brazilian chef composes a blasphemous menu that’s as concise as it is provocative for a handful of diners seated at the three tables and the bar at lunch and dinner… a bavaroise that was as crazy as it was mustardy, made with cucumber spaghetti, raspberries and shaved frozen oyster for dessert.”

La Fine Mousse Restaurant

It should come as no surprise that the Parisian craft beer pioneers behind La Fine Mousse bar would be the first to open a restaurant dedicated to beer and food pairings. Slightly more surprising is just how refined, inventive, and delicious the food here is. Knowledgeable beer sommeliers work closely with the talented chef to present an intelligent set of seasonal small plates, paired with beers from one of the 10 taps or the extensive bottle collection.

Ob-La-Di Café

Ob-La-Di might be the most Instagrammed café of the 2015 rentrée, but there’s real substance at this stylish spot in the Haut Marais. Most of the baked goods are made in-house, and many of them manage to be vegan and gluten-free, and still actually taste good. Coffee is expertly prepared with Lomi beans by Lloyd, formerly of Boot Café, who also curates a killer playlist most days. Creative offerings include an affogato made with cookie dough ice cream, horchata, a vegetarian burger, and avocado toast that is worth an eye-popping €9 price tag due to the homemade purple potato bread and chimichurri sauce, plus pomegranate seeds.

— Catherine Down, September 2015


An Absolute Favorite

Little Breizh

Practical information

Address: 11 rue Gregoire de Tours, 75006
Nearest transport: Odéon (4, 10)
Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Book a day or two in advance
Telephone: 01 43 54 60 74
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: French, Breton & Crêpes
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Reviews of interest

David Lebovitz (2014) “This friendly Breton café offers crêpes and buckwheat galettes that are delicious, and generous. I had an excellent buckwheat galette, flecked with little nubbins of dark, toothy buckwheat embedded in the batter. I chose from the reasonable lunch menu that included a glass of cider and another crêpe for dessert, for less than €10.”

Patricia Wells (2011) “…a real find. The buckwheat galettes are prepared with a very dense, black-flecked organic flour (blé noir) milled specially for the owners — brother and sister team Pierre and Claire Goasdoué —  who put their heart and soul into this little enterprise.”

Les Crocs des Halles

Practical information

Address: 49 rue Berger, 75001
Nearest transport: Les Halles (4), Louvre-Rivoli (1)
Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Book a day or two in advance
Telephone: 01 40 28 00 00
Average price for lunch: 40-59€
Average price for dinner: 40-59€
Style of cuisine: Meat
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Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2015) “We were greeted warmly, seated and overwhelmed by the list of offerings, all meat except for a coquillages starter and sole & chips main… Go?  I heartily urge you to.”

Figaroscope (2015) “Un sérieux antre viandard qu’une cave d’envergure rend encore un peu plus saignante… Moelle en brioche: de l’idée. Bœuf Kronos (bœuf taillé façon carpaccio et mariné): gentiment draculesque. Hampe de bœuf: jolie pièce, cuisson idoine.”

L’Express (2015) “Bon, je ne me tape pas la tête sur le billot pour commander le boeuf entier, j’ai même du mal à y retourner, vu qu’au bout de 5 minutes, le morceau est désespérément froid. Faut bien avouer que la maison manque un peu d’imagination pour la garder au chaud.”

L’Auberge Bressane

Practical information

Address: 16 avenue de la Motte Piquet, 75007
Nearest transport: La Tour-Maubourg (8)
Hours: Open Sunday-Friday for lunch & dinner and Saturday for dinner
Reservations: Book a couple days in advance
Telephone: 01 47 05 98 37
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 60-100€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Website   Facebook

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2015) “A living archive of the great tastes of Gaul… With the possible exception of the price–there’s an excellent value 24.50 Euros lunch menu, but it’s expensive to order a la carte, which we did–everything about this meal pleased.”

Time Out (2012) “The welcome is exactly as you’d expect in a country inn, as well, friendly and unpretentious. The menu features hearty dishes like eggs en cocotte in beaujolais with bacon and shallots, frogs’ legs provençale, utterly traditional coq au vin. If you indulge, remember to order one of the unforgettable dessert souffles, Baked Alaska or flamboyant crepes suzettes at the beginning of your meal.”

Le Figaro (2011) “Un petit joyau régionaliste, tel qu’on les affectionnait après-guerre, lorsque le mot design n’existait pas encore. Cela donne du papier peint à fleurs de lys, des suspensions en fer forgé et lampes bougeoirs, des nappes blasonnées, des fauteuils en cuir cloutés et tout le cortège habituel de moules à charlotte, tonnelets-service à liqueurs et diplômes de boudin qui vous façonnent un décor. On plonge avec délice dans ce giron provincial activement préservé. Trop bien!”

Photo via L’Auberge Bressane’s Facebook page

Chéri Charlot

Practical information

Address: 33 rue Richer, 75009
Nearest transport: Cadet (7)
Hours: Closed Sunday; Open Monday for lunch only; Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch and dinner; Open Saturday for dinner only
Reservations: Walk-Ins Welcome
Telephone: 09 80 41 78 27
Average price for lunch: Less than 10€
Average price for dinner: Less than 10€
Style of cuisine: Soups/Salads/Sandwiches
Website   Facebook

Reviews of interest

Figaroscope (2015) “En appui d’une épicerie (vraiment) fine, un comestible où trois frangins argumentent le «sur le pouce», le «coin de comptoir» et la levée de coude. Il y a là des produits de tempérament et un réel talent à tailler les meilleurs casse-croûte de ce printemps.”

Paris Bouge (2015) “Le prix vaut le met, le pain a été délicatement choisi chez Jocteur (de Lyon), il est toasté et savoureux. Les ingrédients sont originaux, du fromage en veux-tu en voilà, de la charcuterie bien goûteuse, des cornichons, de la salade, des oignons, tout pour nous faire fondre entre deux rendez-vous clients.”

Photo via Chéri Charlot’s Facebook page

Naan

Practical information

Address: 59 rue des Petites Écuries, 75010
Nearest transport: Poissonnière (7), Château d’Eau (4)
Hours: Closed Sunday; Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and Thursday for lunch & dinner
Reservations: Walk-Ins Welcome
Telephone: 09 80 43 58 85
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Indian
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Reviews of interest

Le Figaro (2015) “Cette chic échoppe entièrement dévouée au curry et à l’authentique naan, galette roulée, farcie à l’envi d’épices et de malice. Très sain!”

Paris Bouge (2015) “… le nouveau spot street food indien frais et coloré… les produits bons, frais, de saison, locaux et français.”

Photo via Naan’s Facebook page

Siseng

Burgers are ubiquitous in Paris, but the unique ones at Siseng are worth seeking out. The house specialty is bao burgers: five spiced beef patties with tamarind and tempura onion or a crispy chicken filet with coconut milk & basil on steamed Chinese buns. It’s pan-asian fusion that (mostly) works. Cocktails & sides were uneven. Crunchy risotto balls infused with a lingering lemongrass flavor were a surprising success while the sweet potato fries could have stood another round in the fryer. An evening visit on a weekend found the tiny, Canal-side space slammed with a young, international crowd, but service stayed funny & warm under pressure albeit somewhat forgetful. There are no reservations so it’s better to go in small groups and be prepared to wait.

Maison Rostang

Address: 20, rue Rennequin, 75017
Hours: Closed Sunday; Open Monday & Saturday for dinner only; Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch and dinner
Telephone: +33 1 47 63 40 77
Book Online / Website / Facebook / Instagram

In 2019, this restaurant was purchased by restaurateur Stéphane Manigold (Substance, Contraste) and changed its name from Michel Rostang to Maison Rostang.

Maison Rostang in Pictures

In Other Words

Critique Gastronomique (2012) “On pourra visiter le restaurant de Michel Rostang si l’on s’intéresse à l’histoire de la gastronomie en France.”

Le Pré Catelan

Practical information

Address: Bois de Boulogne, Route de Suresnes, 75016
Nearest transport:  La Muette (9) or Avenue Henri Martin (RER C), then a 5-minute cab ride or half-hour walk
Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Book a month or more in advance
Telephone: +33 (0)1 44 14 41 14
Average price for lunch: More than 100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine:  Modern French, Haute Cuisine
Website

Reviews of interest

L’assiette dans les étoiles (2012) “Côté addition, on est plutôt dans la moyenne basse des 3 macarons parisiens. Il faut compter environ 350 à 400€ par personne avec le grand menu et en buvant largement à sa soif. Cela reste cher mais pas exagéré, l’assiette et le service le méritent amplement.”

Critique gastronomique (2011) “Le(s) plus : Le pavillon Napoléon III, niché dans les profondeurs du Bois de Boulogne, le service.
Le(s) moins : Le repas plutôt décevant ainsi que l’addition “stratosphérique”.”

Food Snob (2009) “In creation, composition and construction, the chef seems to want to differentiate himself and shape a distinctive, identifiable style of his own. I admired his willingness (possibly even determination) to be different….But as I alluded to above, originality and inspiration in presentation are to be esteemed and encouraged, but should be applied precisely and effectively. I hate to see this taken too far with savours suffering for superficiality’s sake and I must confess that sometimes it felt like additional dishes and elements on those dishes were there for reasons other than to please my palate.”

Zébulon

A second effort from the folks behind Pirouette, here with a chef who trained in Japan and his arsenal of anywhere-East-of-here flavors. The two-course 20€ lunch menu on the day of our visit included gnocchi with gingered sea bass, plus steak with caramelized shallots and tempura shimeji mushrooms. The three-course 45€ menu (available lunch & dinner) is a roster of French standards with exotic inflections, like my dish of perfectly cooked turbot accented with nori and encircled by delicate nests of interwoven fennel and shallot strands.  If there’s anything to shrug about, it’s the interior. Design choices that worked well in the shadowy space of Pirouette appear here, in the shadow of the centuries-old Palais Royal, as painfully new. In any case, Zébulon’s arrival is great news for anyone hoping to eat well before or after a visit to the Louvre, and a welcome addition to the increasingly interesting  (VerjusJuveniles,) Palais Royal quarter. 

Boucherie Les Provinces

Practical information

Address: 20 rue d’Aligre, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Closed Monday; Open Tuesday-Sunday for lunch; Open Thursday & Friday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Reservations not accepted,  but the restaurant can be booked for private parties at night
Telephone: 01 43 43 91 64
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 20-39€
Style of cuisine: Rotisserie, Classic French
Website   Facebook

Reviews of interest

David Lebovitz (2014) “At boucherie Les Provinces, you won’t be blown away by the food, but you’ll have a good time, as we did, digging into our onglet steaks… While you likely won’t find Les Provinces listed in restaurant guides as a place to cross town for, I can’t think of a better way to spend a day in Paris than strolling around the Aligre market… before diving into a couple of steaks while knocking back a few glasses of red in the convivial atmosphere of boucherie Les Provinces.”

Le Fooding (2014) “When we’re feeling ravenous at the end of the Marché (d’Aligre), we head to the Boucherie des Provinces, choose a piece of well-matured meat and grab a table. Ten minutes later, the meat is out of the pan, in the company of sautéed new potatoes and salad, augmented by €9.80 of cooking fees. Hanger steak, veal filet, leg of lamb, pork ribs, andouillette, veal sweetbreads, or carpaccio and tartare, made using meat guaranteed to be in excellent shape by Christophe Dru, the son of the butcher and a student of the neighborhood star, Michel Brunon.”

Table à Découvert (2014) “Cette boucherie-restaurant plantée au milieu du marché d’Aligre est irrésistible… Les pommes de terre rattes confites (le seul accompagnement de la maison) sont divines. Un peu sucrées, dorées comme j’aime, un peu grasses aussi.”

Time Out (2013) “As you walk in, all the meat is displayed on the left as usual, with Aligre locals lining up to do their shopping, while the rest of the space is a jumble of tables and counters, heaving with hungry meat-eaters tucking into a giant entrecôte or côte de boeuf, sweet lamb chops or juicy pork ribs.”

L’Express (2013) “Sur place ou à emporter? On a le choix chez le boucher Christophe Dru. Ses pièces de boeuf français longuement maturées se déclinent en carpaccio, tartare, onglet, faux-filet et côte, que l’on déguste devant l’étal.”

Photo via Boucherie Les Provinces’ Facebook page

Les Pinces

Practical information

Address: 29 rue Bourg-Tibourg, 75004
Nearest transport: Hôtel de Ville (1, 11)
Hours: Open Friday-Sunday for lunch and dinner; Open Monday-Thursday for dinner only
Reservations: Walk-Ins Welcome
Telephone: 09 83 56 47 93
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 20-39€
Style of cuisine: American, lobster, cocktails
Website   Facebook

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2015) “The lobsters, flown in from the US or Canada (ours today) were done to perfection and broken up so not a lot of effort had to be expended.  The fries and wine were surprisingly good although a green salad does not work with lobsters – get some coleslaw folks.  We shared a delicious cheesecake and were mighty happy.”

Le Fooding (2014) “In addition to the cocktail bar, they’ve got a one-plate formula for €25 with your choice of either an oven-roasted lobster with a lemon butter sauce, or a lobster roll: lobster meat + mayo + toasted brioche bun. Is it good? Affirmative! And justifiably so: the creatures, flown in from the US and Canada, are removed from their tank (in the wine cellar) alive, before being sent to the massacre… Alternatively, you can have a 500 gram plancha-grilled prime rib, also served with the good house fries.”

Paris Bouge (2014) “Mais ce n’est pas n’importe quel homard: ses Pinces vont vraiment vous plaire… Avec un menu à 25 euros tout rond, Les Pinces peuvent se vanter d’être le moins cher de Paris. Ici, pas de homard congelé mais des achats directement au producteur : USA, Canada (celui du moment) et Bretagne.”

Photo courtesy of Les Pinces’ website

Coretta

Practical information

Address: 151 bis rue Cardinet, 75017
Nearest transport: Brochant (13)
Hours: Open Monday-Saturday for lunch & dinner and Sunday for lunch only
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 42 26 55 55
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 40-59€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Website   Facebook

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2016) “Crispy, crunchy, contemporary cuisine.”

John Talbott (2015) “A vastly better meal and upgraded opinion.”

Table à Découvert (2015) “Le ris de veau (spécialité de la maison) est servi ici très croustillant à l’extérieur et bien fondant dedans, avec un enchevêtrement de rhubarbe préparée différemment (séché en chips, cru, croquante, fondante) et de céleri grillé. L’acidulé de la rhubarbe va très bien au ris de veau que je n’ai pas arrêté d’arroser de jus (servi dans un pot à côté)… Un bel équilibre entre onctuosité animale et fraîcheur végétale.”

Les Grands Ducs (2014) “L’accueil et le service ont cette amabilité, cet enthousiasme non feint des tables généreuses et franches. Les assiettes qui sortent du passe allient la gouaille d’une cuisine néo-bourgeoise et la précision d’exécution digne des plus grandes maisons.”

Alexander Lobrano (2014) “The signatures of Pantaleon’s cooking… which run to an avowed love of vegetables and fruit, a percussion of different acidities, and a love of smoke and charring”.  Now that the restaurant is a few weeks old, he “can whole-heartedly recommend this place, and since they’re planning to serve on the broad terrace out front when the weather gets better, I suspect that it’s going to become even more popular.”

Le Figaro (2014) “Parmi les premières belles séquences de la nouvelle année, celle-là, comme on les aime: inattendue, pudique, frémissante à bien faire et d’une saine audace à se poster, là où personne ne serait venue la chercher.”

Patricia Wells (2014) “A win… super contemporary, approachable, just-good-food bistro that’s totally right for the times.”

L’Express (2014) “Vous aimiez Beatriz Gonzales chez Neva cuisine, l’un des bistrots gastronomiques les plus emballants de Paris ? Vous allez l’adorer chez Coretta, sa seconde adresse!”

Le Fooding (2014) “Néo-bourgeois en mode gourmand: entrée fraîche d’anguille fumée et quasi de veau cru, bouillon au raifort et massala; ris de veau bien doré, jus de viande, panais rôti, en purée légèrement citronnée et en chips; dessert couleur café en tube, tuiles au sésame et espuma whisky-tonka… Beatriz Gonzales (Neva Cuisine) et Matthieu Marcant (son mari) ont aussi pensé aux grignoteurs, avec quelques jolies botanas.”

Photo via Coretta’s Facebook page

Au Passage

Address: 1 bis passage de Saint Sébastien, 75011
Hours: Open Monday-Saturday for dinner. Closed Sunday.
Telephone: +33 1 43 55 07 52
Book Online / Website / Facebook / Instagram

COVID-19 UPDATE:
Au Passage has reopened with a temporary terrace across the way.

Our Most Recent Visit

It’s so nice when a restaurant delivers more than they need to, more than you expect to receive. When looking at a chalkboard menu filled with cheap small plates, one rarely hopes for anything more than simple products. But here at Au Passage, your 8€ octopus dish has undergone three days of preparation. There’s a quiet ethos at work beneath the blaring bustle of the dining room: staples are homemade (butter, bread, stock, charcuterie), vegetables and fish receive priority attention, and meat is served in a nose-to-tail spirit with every last offaly bit turning up on the menu. So much heart and creativity for so little money. Au Passage is not for everyone, nor is it trying to be. If the loud music, frenzied service, and worn-out interior turn some people away, that leaves more space for me. 

La Pointe du Grouin

Named for a pig’s snout (and not its other end), this dirt-cheap Breton wine bar is sandwiched between Thierry Breton’s two other eateries Chez Michel and Chez Casimir.  Don’t worry if you don’t understand the system–it’s not clear that there is one. Just sidle up to the bar, let them know how hungry you are, and wait for the small plates to roll out.

La Régalade Saint Honoré

This second location of La Régalade has been full since chef Bruno Doucet opened the doors in spring of 2010. The formula (terrine + 3 classic courses for a prix fixe) has since been replicated at a third location in the 9th. Is it less special now that it’s a franchise? Some think so (see below), but it remains a good bet in central Paris, especially on Mondays.

– Meg Zimbeck, 2010