Results from the annual competition to name the city’s best baguette – the Grand prix de la baguette de tradition française de la Ville de Paris – have just been announced. This year’s winning baguette was made by bakers Mickaël Reydellet and Florian Charles from La Parisienne at 48 rue Madame in Saint-Germain.
First hamburgers arrived, then Tex-Mex. But never before has the Americanization of French food culture been more evident than on January 1, 2016, when the Union of Hospitality Trades and Industries handed a down a “strong recommendation” to restaurants serving 150-200 covers per day that they make doggy bags available to their customers.
Despite some breathless early coverage, there is no obligation enshrined in law. This misreporting seems to arise from the fact that the recommendation is part of a larger law targeting food waste. Nonetheless, the move is an important one for a country that throws away a reported 7 million tonnes of food waste per year – and where, up until now, there was no expectation that a restaurant would allow its customers to take their leftovers home.
Giovanni Passerini, the Roman chef behind the beloved and now-closed Rino, has today opened a fresh pasta shop near the Marché d’Aligre at 65 rue Traversière, 75012.
Pastificio Passerini will make fresh pasta daily to cook at home and sell everything needed to make it into a meal, including various jarred ragus and sauces, fresh herbs to infuse into butter, Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, cured meat, and a handful of high-end Italian grocery products.
On opening day, the chef had fresh pappardelle, taglioni, and tagliatelle (fresh and buckwheat), plus three stuffed pastas including Taleggio cheese and seaweed ravioli, ravioli with pumpkin, brown butter, pistachios, and bergamot ricotta, and an agnolotti with mortadella, chicory, pork and veal. Prices for the fresh pasta are astoundingly low for the quality, with plain versions selling for €1.90 per 150 grams and stuffed pastas for €3.90, with roughly 150 grams suggested per person.
Diners can expect simple, seasonal, small plates and excellent wines, per usual. Fourmont says that the bar, also called Le Pigalle, “will be more about assembly than cooking, like a kitchen where most of the preparation is done beforehand. The jam may have been made last summer, and the evening menu this morning.”
For hours and practical info, check out our guide page for Le Pigalle.
He seeks out and photographs a different edible masterpiece each day, and his color and pattern combos are a feast for the eyes.