Category Archives: The Feed

Restaurants in France sue for negative comments

Lawsuits and threats for negative reviews

Update December 16

Following his (really very) negative review of Le Verre Volé sur Mer, writer Aaron Ayscough (Not Drinking Poison in Paris) received this comment from chef Laurent Julien:

your gonna review only soups restaurants after you cross my way motherfucker.You need a good reminder of what respect is.Tu va connaitre ton poid sans tes dents mon enfant de chienne.a bientot

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Yam'Tcha steamed buns bao brioche vapeur December 2014 from Adeline Grattard | Paris by Mouth

Hot buns from Yam’Tcha’s Adeline Grattard

While their gastronomic restaurant prepares to move to a new location in the new year, the folks at Yam’Tcha are using their space at 4 rue Sauval to sell boxes of bao, or steamed buns, to go. Adeline Grattard’s Franco-Chinois take on les brioches vapeur includes fillings like Comté with sweet onion, Basque pork with Szechuan eggplant, shrimp with gauchoï, spicy shitake & veg, and surprising bite of Stilton with Amarena cherry. >> Read More

Martin bar a manger wine bar in Paris from Au Passage

Au Passage to open new wine bar

The team behind Au Passage is opening a new wine bar called Martin on Saturday night November 29.

Au Passage barman Loïc (family name Martin) is leading the charge with backing from Au Passage co-owners Jean-Charles & Audrey and with menu supervision by Au Passage chef Edward Delling-Williams. >> Read More

Le Chabanais from Le Chateaubriand's Inaki Aizpitarte to open in London

Aizpitarte to open Le Chabanais in London

Bloomberg reported today that Le Chateaubriand (now le Chateaubrand?) will be opening a 90 seat restaurant early next year in London’s Mayfair district.

Le Chabanais, which takes its name from a brothel and is also the name of an international escort service, will be helmed by Paul Boudier, currently Iñaki Aizpitarte’s second in command. The space will be designed by Clement Blanchet who designed, along with Rem Koolhaas, Le Chateaubriand’s adjacent white marble wine bar Le Dauphin

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Growlers for Paris Beer Geeks

If you like tap beer but want to drink it in the privacy of your home, you’ll be happy to learn that La Fine Mousse has started a growler program. They’re selling the refillable 2-liter jugs for 20€ and a fill from any of their 20 taps costs the same as five demis (usually in the 20-25€ range) – that’s eight beers for the price of five! >> Read More

The Beast BBQ in Paris | Paris by Mouth

The Beast is Born: Texas BBQ in Paris

Last night in Paris, a Frenchman opened an authentic BBQ joint. His name is Thomas Abramowicz and his restaurant The Beast is the culmination of a year spent training and tracking down everything he would need (meat, wood, Bourbon) to open the first authentic smokehouse in Paris.  >> Read More

Prodigal chefs return to cook with Passard

For two days in November, chef Alain Passard will be partnering for a series of meals with his former acolytes – chefs who worked for him at L’Arpège before moving on and gaining acclaim with their own restaurants. The list is impressive, and you’ll find the following chefs working together with Passard to create 100€ meals. >> Read More

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Joël Robuchon to return to NYC

Two years after the closure of his first New York outpost, Joël Robuchon will bring his relaxed fine dining back to New York with a brand new restaurant in Battery Park City . This atelier will be considerably bigger (at 11,000 square feet) and will include a bar & lounge space for small plates — a first for Robuchon’s global Atelier empire. >> Read More

Patrick Roger chocolate atelier in Paris suffers a major fire

Big Fire at Patrick Roger Workshop

Purveyors of fine chocolate in Paris are suffering major losses this year. Back in February, Denise Acabo’s beloved chocolate shop L’Etoile d’Or was rocked by an explosion. Then yesterday, Patrick Roger’s atelier in Sceaux suffered a major fire.

There were no (human) casualties in the fire that broke out on around 3pm, but production of those delicious pralines and bonbons has of course ground to a halt.

To more fully grasp how awful this is, check out David Lebovitz’ video documenting the delicious work that took place in (and hopefully will return soon to) this atelier.

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Anne-Sophie Pic to open in NYC

Anne-Sophie Pic, one of a small number of chefs to possess three Michelin stars and a vagina, has been expanding in recent months at an almost Ducassian rate. In the past two years, the Valence-based chef has opened a casual restaurant called Daily Pic in that city as well as La Dame de Pic in Paris (right across from the Louvre). In 2015, she plans to open two restaurants in New York.

According to the New York Times, “she plans to open a cafe on the ground floor of 510 Madison Avenue (at 53rd Street) that will be a branch of Metcafé, in Monaco. There will a more formal restaurant, “relaxed yet elegant,” on the second floor, with echoes of her Paris restaurant, La Dame de Pic.”

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Game on! The hunting season opens in France

wild game

The Pourcel brothers report that the official hunting season opened yesterday in France, so we can expect to see some gibier à plumes (wild birds)  turning up on restaurant menus soon, to be followed later in the season by gibier à poils (wild hare, boar and deer).

An interesting detail: while nearly 580,000 deer and 556,000 wild boars are killed each year in France, most of the wild game sold in France is actually imported from New Zealand and Eastern Europe.

Read the full article from Les Fréres Pourcel

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Tous au Restaurant festival begins in Paris

tous au restaurant

The folks at L’Express have created a handy guide to navigating this, the 5th edition of Tous au Restaurant. Just like Restaurant Week celebrations in other cities, Tous au Restaurant (September 22-28) aims to bring more people into restaurants by offering discounted meals – in this case, it’s buy one, get one free. And just like Restaurant Week celebrations in other cities, this is a terrible week for people who normally already visit restaurants (i.e. you, the readers of this website) to set foot in any of the participating restaurants.

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Eataly to open in Paris

DSC01959Eataly in Rome

Eataly, the super-sized Italian food court/store with outposts in New York, Tokyo, and Istanbul, has struck a deal to open in Paris in 2015 or 2016. In partnership with Galeries Lafayette, Eataly will open their 6ooo m2 store in the Marais (so as not to compete with Galeries Lafayette’s own food hall) right next to the BHV.

While we were scratching our heads while visiting Eataly Rome, wondering why such a superstore was necessary in a city filled with excellent mom & pop purveyors, Eataly Paris seems like a brilliant idea. There are so few sources for good Italian products in Paris, and (we think) a lot of pent up demand. Between this, the opening of Caffé Stern, and whatever projects Giovanni Passerini and Pierre Jancou get up to next, we’re expecting a big wave of Italophilia in 2015.

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Julien Dumas succeeds Alain Senderens at Lucas Carton

Lucas Carton

The Restaurant Senderens has, with the retirement of the eponymous chef Alain Senderens, reverted to its previous incarnation: Lucas Carton. We’ve been hearing rumblings since January about Senderens retiring and passing the reigns to chef Julien Dumas.

Alain Senderens, now 74 years old, made his name at the restaurant L’Archistrate where he won, between 1968-1978, all three Michelin stars. He took over the kitchens of Lucas Carton in 1985 and brought that restaurant to three-star status, before “handing back his stars” in 2005, re-baptizing the restaurant in his own name, and lowering the prices.

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Porte 12 from André Chiang opens in the 10th

Porte 12 by Andre Chiang in ParisPhoto from the Porte 12 Facebook page

The Pourcel Brothers, Pudlo and Sophie Brissaud all announced over the weekend the arrival of Porte 12, the new restaurant signed by André Chiang. While the Singapore-based chef is certainly attached, it’s Vincent Crepel who will be running the kitchen after working for Chiang at his eponymous Restaurant André in Singapore (currently ranked #37 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list) 2014.

Another sign of the expanding gastro-gentrification in this neighborhood, Porte 12 has opened at 12 rue des Messageries in the 10th, a few steps from either Abri or Albion and a few blocks north of Vivant Table. The intimate space was previously a textile and lingerie atelier and is illuminated by corset-shaped chandeliers.

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Ducasse re-opens Plaza Athénée as vegetarian(ish)

ducasseLe Marché d’Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée

Alain Ducasse, who is is often described as the “most Michelin starred chef in the world,” lost some twinkle when his eponymous restaurant at the Plaza Athénée closed last year for renovations. It will reopen on Monday with a revamped décor by designer Patrick Jouin and a dramatically re-envisioned menu that celebrates fish, cereals and vegetables. No meat, or rather less meat.

The headlines have been rather splashy. The Guardian told us on Friday that “France’s top chef bans meat from the menu” after free transport rag Metronews reported on Thursday that “Avec Alain Ducasse, le Plaza Athénée devient végétarien.”

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Septime alums to open new bistro in the 17th

bertrand grebaut septime marco gare au gorilleGrébaut’s former sous-chef Marco (at right) will be opening Gare au Gorille in October

Good news for people (like us) who have a hard time getting into Septime: two alums have joined forces to open a new bistro in October on the rue des Dames.

Marco, who was second to Bertrand Grébaut at the time of Septime’s opening, will be running the kitchen at Gare au Gorille. Louis, who is known by Septime fans as “the really tall and nice one,” will be taking care of the front of house.

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Julien Duboué sells Dans les Landes, opens A Noste

dans les landesDans les Landes was sold in July

Earlier this summer, Julien Duboué sold his easy-going tapas restaurant Dans Les Landes (included in Our Guide to the Latin Quarter) in order to open a new place near the Bourse. A Noste opened this week at 6 bis rue du 4 Septembre, and John Talbott shared his enthusiasm in a review entitled “Wow, wow, wow, this place is hot, hot, hot.”

There is a taloa truck parked inside, and they seem to be serving the Basque corn tortilla snacks on the ground floor along with tapas and drinks. One floor up, they’re serving a fixed menu that features giant meat skewers carved table side.

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Pasteurized Cheese Recalls in the U.S.

Just in time to ruin Labor Day barbecues in America, Kraft recalled over 7,500 cases of "pasteurized prepared cheese product" Kraft Singles due to storage temperature concerns. This is the third such recall this year for the company including a Velveeta, cheese stuffed hotdog and cottage cheese mishaps. Good thing it wasn't raw milk...

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Café des Abattoirs in The New York Times

Café des Abattoirs (75001) Lindsey Tramuta reported on Café des Abattoirs in the Times this week, calling it a “modern grill-meets-Lyonnaise bouchon” run by the Rostang sisters who “uphold their father’s penchant for simple dishes prepared with top-tier ingredients, in a family-friendly environment that has a whiff of nostalgia… Despite a few missed opportunities — a short, predictable wine list and uninspired desserts — this is feel-good Rostang cooking at its finest.”

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Pietro from Retro’Bottega opens a new wine Squatt

Squatt (75011) Looking for an antidote to the ubiquitous Nicolas chain? Aaron Ayscough suggests the brand new “junkyardy wine shop and épicerie” from Pietro Russano, the owner of Retro’Bottega, which is “stuffed with unusual French and Italian selections, not to mention sincere personality… The selection is a 30% – 70% split between Italian and French wines.” Beware though as “Squatt’s French selection is presently a little patchy.”

Read the full review on Not Drinking Poison in Paris

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Lobrano loves the new Cantonese LiLi

LiLi (75016) Alexander Lobrano thinks this brand new Cantonese restaurant will be one of the biggest hits of the rentrée with “an extravagant but carefully edited program of temptations that debuts with dim sum, including the juicy Shanghai style soup dumplings below and also other more delicate and tantalizing versions of the genre, including the lobster-stuffed caviar-dressed single dim-sum that was so good I ate it in one excited bite.”

Find practical information and additional reviews on our guide page for LiLi

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Yam’Tcha to close & relocate

Yam'Tcha Paris

Stephane Davet reports today that Yam’Tcha – the celebrated and nearly impossible-to-book restaurant from chef Adeline Grattard – will be closing at some point in the next few months in order to reopen in a larger space. The new restaurant will also be in the Les Halles neighborhood but will pass from 20 to 35 covers and have space for four cooks instead of three. Anyone who has seen their current set -up can understand why she might want some more elbow room in the kitchen.

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