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Dersou restaurant and cocktails from Taku Sekine and Amaury Guyot in Paris


Maybe there’s a right way to do Dersou, one that involves sharing a sixty-day aged steak and a bottle of Crozes-Hermitage, as the happy couple next to us was doing at 11pm. We who had signed up from the tasting menu – offered for 90€ from 7:30-9pm, were less pleased. Chef Taku Sekine’s food – a series of five inventive, generous and mostly delicious plates, each paired by with a cocktail from barman Amaury Guyot, is not well-enough supported by an adolescent staff that seems to be more enthralled with their own vibe than with the banality of service.

In absence of any competent service (which is at least minimally required when one is spending this much), I’d be more excited if Dersou ditched the dégustation death march in favor of expanding their late night à la carte offer. Maybe then I’d go back and revel in a heaping plate of Ibérico pork with sweet potatoes and house-made harissa (23€) paired with a cocktail of smoked whisky, port reduction and dry vermouth (9€), both of which were delicious.

Practical information

Address: 21 rue Saint-Nicolas, 75012
Hours: Closed Monday; Open Tuesday-Friday for dinner, Saturday for lunch & dinner and Sunday for brunch
Telephone: 09 81 01 12 73
Website   Facebook

Dersou in pictures

What people are saying about Dersou

Lost in Cheeseland (2015) “Sekine’s cooking is nothing short of personal, inventive and bold– seeing him in the open kitchen is like a front-row seat to a musical performance where the artist is visibly transfixed by the emotion of the moment, giving off an energy and a sensation that can only be described as spectacular.”

John Talbott (2015) “It sure was uncomfortable and loud.”

Sugared & Spiced (2015) “I stole plenty of bites from my friend’s Ma Po tofu, poivre de Sichuan” (€14), spicy tofu with Sichuan pepper served over rice. I probably ate half of this plate…could barely stop my hand for diving in for yet another spoonful.”

A Paris Food Affair (2015) “Although 5 cocktails would normally be excessive, they obviously take this into account in the strength/size of each drink, so we didn’t walk out the door tanked from our meal. The cocktails were good enough that I would come by just to get one before a dinner elsewhere in the area, though I would have difficulty resisting the urge to stay.”

Le Figaro (2015) “Longtemps que la prétendue jeune garde n’était pas sortie de ses gonds et voici que, dans un décor radical et sauvage à gratter la matière, l’inattendu de duettistes franco-nippons – l’un cuistot, l’autre barman – balance une audacieuse rythmique de table.”

Paris Bouge (2014) “Des inspirations à la fois françaises et asiatiques. Enfin le soir, un concept food encore jamais vu: 5 plats et 5 cocktails! Un menu “carte blanche” uniquement sur réservation, pour découvrir réellement le talent du chef. De la vraie gastronomie accompagnée d’une vodka pamplemousse, une Tequila Chili… La carte change tous les soirs, c’est le suspense. La cerise sur le cocktail? Une décoration brute comme inachevée avec une impressionnante cuisine ouverte. On adore.”

Le Fooding (2014) “Coffee shop le matin… cantine de quartier à midi… l’affaire se fait plus belle le soir, sous électro pop, avec cuisine free style et boissons frissons en « cocktail pairing ». Extrait : cochon ibérique fumé minute, riz à la mexicaine et harissa maison (avec whisky tourbé, réduction de porto, jus d’orange et vermouth).”

Table à Découvert (2014) “Le bento du midi « croquette de pomme de terre et courge, sauce tonkatsu » (autre plat ce jour-là, gratin de chou fleur et poulet), à 13 € et qui remplit un estomac qui crie famine. Je commence par le velouté de champignons très crémeux, avec son filet d’huile d’olive et ses croûtons pas tout à fait comme les autres (peut-être de la mie uniquement, à moins que ce soit autre chose), arrosés d’huile d’olive et bien croustillants en tout cas.”

One Reply to “Dersou”

  1. Having being on the receiving end of a cancellation from another restaurant ( yes that can also happen in Paris) it was a very pleasant surprise to be able to book a table for 6 for a Friday night on short notice and we were pleasantly surprised . Dersou is different, pleasant and we got exactly what we were hoping for. Interesting and tasting food combination in a no fuss environment. The special is the cocktail paring for the tasting menu…and it works very well! In particular the whisky based cocktail at course 4 or was it 5 triggered many oohs and aahs. The restaurant whilst only one room keeps the bar crowd set away from the dinner tables, which allowed to have a good conversation. At the end of the evening my guests all said the same thing- what a great “Find”.

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