Restaurants You Don’t Need to Book

Parisian restaurants tend to be tiny, and getting a reservation can be challenging at many of the top tables. Don’t want to jump through hoops to get a great meal? Here are our favorites for addresses where walk-ins are (usually) welcome.



Kunitoraya – A favorite address for udon and rice bowls that recently moved to a narrow but beautiful space. Open all day. Reservations are not accepted, so be prepared to queue unless you go early.

Willi’s Wine Bar – Mark Williamson’s landmark wine bar turned 30 in 2010. It’s packed with suits from the Bourse at lunch, and an Anglo-heavy crowd in the evenings. Reservations are accepted, but there’s a bar for walk-ins to sidle up to. Open every day.

Le Garde-Robe – Natural wine, snacks to soak it up, rowdy crowds and dancing bartenders at lunch and dinner. One of the original natural wine hangouts in Paris. Reservations are accepted, but usually not necessary. Closed Sunday.

L’Ecume Saint-Honoré – The sight and smell of this sparkling poissonnerie will transport you from Paris to the seashore. Take something home or eat sûr place.

Le Petit Vendôme – If you really want to lunch as the locals do, visit this old fashioned Auvergnate casse-croute. Closed Monday-Wednesday for dinner and all day Saturday & Sunday. Reservations for dinner are accepted but usually not necessary.

Naritake – A dive of a ramen shop, where the signature is a fat-enriched broth. Open for lunch and dinner. Closed Sunday.


Frenchie Wine Bar – If you want a taste of Gregory Marchand’s cooking without the challenge of scoring a reservation at Frenchie, this is where to go. Be prepared to line up a half hour before it even opens if you want a seat. Closed Saturday & Sunday.

photo (82)Frenchie To Go

Frenchie To Go – Now you can have Frenchie food for breakfast and lunch, too. Take your pick of sticky buns, reubens or fish & chips. Open every day.
Hero – Korean fried chicken and other small plates from Quixotic Projects, the team behind Candelaria, Le Mary Celeste, and Glass. Reservations can be made in advance but several tables are saved for walk-ins each night, too. Open for dinner only.

Hokkaido – A basic and busy noodle bar near rue Sainte Anne, serving gyoza and ramen. Be prepared to queue for lunch and dinner. Closed Wednesday.

Coinstot Vino – Guillaume Dupré runs this wine bar in the Passage des Panoramas, serving a range of small plates for snackers, a few hot items for the hungry, and vins natures for the thirsty. Open for lunch, dinner and drinking. Closed Sunday.

Entre Deux Rives – A slick little dinette offering pho, bo bun and other Vietnamese favorites. Open for lunch and dinner Monday-Friday.

Gyoza Bar – A Japanese dumpling bar, from the team from Passage 53 (now closed). Dinner only. Closed Sunday.

Legrand Filles et Fils – Lovely Legrand occupies an enviable place off the galerie Vivienne. Mainly a shop, there is a room with a bar and a few tables for a drink and a snack on the spot. Closed Sunday.

Grillé – This might be the most pedigreed kebab you’ll ever eat: prepared by Le Chateaubriand alum Frédéric Peneau with meat from butcher Hugo Desnoyer, homemade spelt flatbread, and herbs from Annie Bertin. There aren’t any seats on-site, or even in the immediate vicinity, so be prepared to eat it on the go. Lunch only. Closed Saturday and Sunday.


Candelaria – With its bright, bare-bones kitchen, crowded counter, communal table, and addictive salsas — all mercifully un-Frenchified — this upper Marais spot has people are lining up for tacos and agua fresca. Go through the unmarked door next to the stove and you’ll find a serious bar. Open every day for lunch and dinner.

deviled eggs mary celeste photo catherine downLe Mary Celeste

Le Mary Celeste – Some of the best cocktails in the city  from the team behind Candelaria and Glass. On the food front, you can expect an eclectic menu of small plates from chef Haan Palcu-Chang, and a rotating cast of mostly wild oysters sold by the piece for 2-5€ during the season. Open every day for drinks and dinner.

Trois Fois Plus de Piments – Spicy Szechuan noodles, soups, and raviolis at this chicer sister spot to Deux Fois Plus de Piment.

Mmmozza – Queue up at this skinny sliver of an Italian specialty shop for messy, affordable sandwiches made with fresh mozzarella, arugula, and cured meats & vegetables.

Le Barav’ – This upper Marais wine bar serves charcuterie, cheese, salads, and sandwiches to go along with 5€ glasses, or a bottle from their cave next door. Last minute bookings are usually okay. Closed Sunday. Open for lunch Monday-Friday and dinner Tuesday-Saturday.

Café Pinson – Fashionable health food freaks can get their fix at this (surprisingly?) popular vegan hangout. Open every day only for lunch (and brunch on weekends).

Happy Nouilles – Hand made Chinese noodles, at very happy prices, for both lunch and dinner. Closed Tuesday.

Pink Flamingo – “Pas comme les autres,” is the motto at kitschy cool Pink Flamingo Pizza. Open every day. Take-out and delivery for lunch and dinner is available at all locations.

La Briciola – The pizzas are thin-crusted and fresh at this upper Marais spot. Closed Sunday.


L’As du Fallafel – Cheap, messy and seemingly obligatory – regularly cited as the best falafel in Paris. Closed Friday dinner and Saturday.

Miznon – Another pita place for the Marais – this annex of an Israeli chain has far more creative offerings than your corner kebab stand. Notable options include grilled cauliflower, grilled sweet potato, and beef bourguignon. Open all day. Closed Friday dinner and Saturday.

Brasserie de l’Isle Saint Louis – This classic brasserie has been in business since 1953, is open for lunch and dinner, and is still run by the same family. Closed Wednesday.

Maison David – Squeeze into this tiny butcher shop for lunch only (1-3pm) and watch owner Michel Kalifa in action. Closed Friday, Saturday and Monday.


Icho – Take a seat at the counter of this slick little sushi bar and watch chef Aroun Tanovan turn out pristine sashimi, riotous rolls of pink and green, and salads of seaweed, ginger, and yuzu. Closed Sunday all day and Monday lunch.


Café de la Nouvelle Mairie – This is a true café, open all day long starting at 8am. But it’s the natural wines and simple food that keep this place busy. Closed Saturday and Sunday.

Dans les Landes – Small plates from the Landes and Basque regions with well-priced wine and plenty of seating for larger groups. A few tables on the terrasse if the weather is nice. Open every day. Walk-ins are usually welcome.

Le Pot O’ Lait – This tidy spot near rue Mouffetard is short on the usual Breton bric-a-brac, and long on quality. Number three on our list of Five Great for Crêpes. Closed Sunday and Monday.

patepbmLes Pâtes Vivantes

Les Pâtes Vivantes – Hand-thrown noodles are stretched and cut before your eyes at this Chinese spot. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday-Saturday.

Le Porte-Pot – An address for a decent glass of wine in the Latin Quarter, and bottles to go, too. Only open for dinner Tuesday-Saturday.


Fish (La Boissonnerie) – A left-bank haven for Anglos, wine lovers, and food writers on their day off. The bar area makes Fish ideal for solo diners, too. Open every day for lunch and dinner. Reservations are encouraged, but if you arrive early there are usually a few seats at the bar.

L’Avant Comptoir – Crêpes up front and pork (Ibaïona) in the rear. It’s standing room only at Yves Camdeborde’s recently renovated tapas and wine bar, a hit since it opened in fall of 2009. Go during the off hours or be prepared to be get to know the person next to you very, very well. Open every day for lunch and dinner.

L’Avant Comptoir de la Mer – It’s standing room only at this counter serving seafood small plates from Yves Camdeborde.

Freddy’s – Counter seating only at this casual spot for adventurous small plates like duck heart croquettes or escargot risotto balls and wines by the glass.

Le Relais de L’Entrecôte – The choices here are steak and… really that’s it. Served with crisp fries in outrageous quantities, the only question is how you want it cooked. Reservations not accepted, so go early or be prepared to wait on the sidewalk. Open every day.

scallops le comptoir du relais photo catherine downLe Comptoir du Relais

Le Comptoir du Relais – Yves Camdeborde’s now-classic neo-bistro is still going strong. You can only walk-in (and stand in line) for lunch every day, and dinner on the weekends. You’ll need to book well in advance for the unique menu weeknight dinner. Open every day.

La Cantine du Troquet Cherche-Midi – Part of a mini-chain of casual, no-reservations bistros from chef Christian Etchebest, you’ll want to arrive early to avoid a wait for the generous Basque cuisine.

Cosi – The sandwiches at this shop — run by Juan Sanchez and Drew Harré of Fish — are made with a focaccia-like bread, right from the oven, with fresh fillings and plenty of vegetarian choices. You can eat on-site or take your sandwiches to go for lunch or dinner. Open every day.

Bread & Roses – An English-accented bakery, lunch spot and tea salon featuring fresh tarts (savory and sweet), sandwiches, and lively salads, plus flaky scones, serious cheesecake, and a few grocery items. Open for breakfast, lunch and afternoon snacks. Closed Sunday.

Eggs & Co. – Eggs rule the roost at this sunny spot in Saint-Germain, where brunch is not only for Sundays. Open every day from 10am-6pm.


coutume salad photo meg zimbeckCoutume

Coutume – Part of the new wave of good cafés, Coutume serves serious coffee drinks along with light & healthy brunch or lunch fare. Open every day (lunch only).

Café Constant – Christian Constant is the unofficial mayor of rue St. Dominique. His casual, no-reservations café is open all day, every day, starting at 8 in the morning.

Les Cocottes – Though the breezy service and long counter are reminiscent of an American diner, they are not slinging hash at Christian Constant’s Les Cocottes. An easy, no-reservations choice for lunch and dinner in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower. Open every day.

Bellota-Bellota – The specialty here is Iberian ham. Take a bocadillo (sandwich) to go, or sit at the counter or communal table for a lunch, dinner, or snacks. Open all day. Closed Sunday and Monday.

Rosa Bonheur sur Seine – Small plates & tapas.


Le Relais de L’Entrecôte – At Le Relais de L’Entrecôte, the choices are steak or steak, and the supply of golden fries is unending. Which is how the line to be seated will seem unless you go early. Open every day for lunch and dinner.

Le Mini Palais – Eric Fréchon of the Bristol is the consulting chef of this contemporary, chic brasserie. Book a table on the terrace when weather permits. Open every day, all day. Reservations are accepted, but it’s large enough that it’s usually okay to go without.

Garnier – This posh brasserie near the Gare St. Lazare is one to remember when you’re craving oysters. Or sole, or daurade, or rougets. Last minute bookings are usually okay. Open every day.

La Maison de l’Aubrac – This classic off the Champs-Elysées is open 24 hours a day every day, serving burgers, tartare, and aged steaks that will please carnivores.

bread and roses parisBread & Roses

Bread & Roses – An English-accented bakery, lunch spot and tea salon featuring fresh tarts (savory and sweet), sandwiches, and lively salads, plus flaky scones, serious cheesecake, and a few grocery items. Open for breakfast, lunch and afternoon snacks. Closed Sunday.


Le Richer – An offshoot of one our absolute favorites L’Office, Le Richer was named as Le Fooding’s Best New Bistro for 2014. Stop by this former corner café at all hours of the day and night (sans reservation) for snacks, small plates, decent coffee, cocktails, or an evening meal. Open every day.

Buvette – Manhattanite Jody Williams has brought her well-loved French “gastrotheque” back to the city that inspired the original rustic-chic café. The appealing drinks menu includes artisanal cider, organic beer, a tight selection of wines, and pages of cocktails and apéritifs. Closed Monday.

Peco Peco – A simple menu of donburi & katsu sandwiches is available at this casual Japanese address. Closed Sunday & Monday.

Bourgogne Sud – A regional table serving up Burgundian classics like jambon persillé, frog’s legs, escargots, and boeuf bourguignon. Open for lunch and dinner. Closed Saturday lunch and all day Sunday.

La Tute – This rustic bistro offers heart-stopping fare from the Pyrenees for lunch and dinner every day.

Les Pâtes Vivantes – Hand-thrown noodles are stretched and cut before your eyes at this Chinese spot. Closed Sunday.

Braisenville – Small plates rule at this mod address in the 9th. Open lunch and dinner. Closed Saturday lunch and all day Sunday.

Hôtel Amour – Fashion types flock to to this boutique hotel for brunch or dinner in the secluded back garden. Open every day.

Chartier – Do not, we repeat, do NOT go to Chartier for the food. Do go for the atmosphere (and prices) of a bygone era. Open every day.

l'orient d'orL’Orient d’Or

L’Orient d’Or – Craving a little heat? Head to this address for chili-laden Hunanese fare. If you want their chicken Zuo Zang-tong — General Tso’s chicken — be sure to call a day in advance and let them know. Closed Monday.

Le Vin au Vert – This bar-à-vins offers a small menu of (mostly) cold and hot dishes, bottles to take home, and a natural and organic wine list. Closed Sunday and Monday.

Chéri Charlot – Good sandwiches, coffee, and gourmet groceries are on offer at this tiny casse-croûte.

Faggio – Italian, pizza, natural wine


Kouign-Amann-at-La-Pointe-du-GroinLa Pointe du Grouin

La Pointe du Grouin – Named for a pig’s snout (and not its other end), this dirt-cheap Breton wine bar is sandwiched between Thierry Breton’s two other eateries Chez Michel and Chez Casimir.  Don’t worry if you don’t understand the system–it’s not clear that there is one. Just sidle up to the bar, let them know how hungry you are, and wait for the small plates to roll out. Expect hearty regional fare at lunch and dinner. Closed Saturday and Sunday.

Ravioli Chinois Nord-Est – You’re not here for the bare-bones space or the bare-bones service, you’re here for the fresh dumplings, pure and simple. They’re cheap, abundant, and most importantly, good.

Le Triangle – Wash down seasonal snacks & small plates with artisanal beers at this microbrasserie. Closed Sunday and Monday.

La Cave à Michel – La Cave à Michel rivals the Left Bank’s L’Avant Comptoir for the best Parisian cuisine you’ll eat standing up.

Siseng – Burgers are ubiquitous in Paris, but the unique ones at Siseng are worth seeking out. The house specialty is bao burgers: five spiced beef patties with tamarind and tempura onion or a crispy chicken filet with coconut milk & basil on steamed Chinese buns. Open every day.

Naan – Cheap & cheeful naan sandwiches and seasonal curries. Closed Sunday.

Big Fernand – Get in line for juicy burgers, made with French ingredients and cooked by an enthusiastic, plaid-clad crew of mustachoied men. Open for lunch and dinner. Closed Sunday.

Urfa Dürüm – No ordinary kebab joint,the bread at this Kurdish sandwich shop is made before your eyes, split and filled with lamb, beef, or chicken that’s been grilled to order, garnished simply with a few greens, red onion, sliced tomato and herbs. Closed Sunday.

Le Cambodge – Where bobos go for bo bun. Go early or be ready to queue. Open for lunch and dinner. Closed Sunday.

La Taverne de Zhao – Cheap and cheerful cooking for lunch and dinner from the Shaanxi province, courtesy of Zhao, who hails from Xi’an. Get the pork-filled flatbread. Open every day.

Bob’s Juice Bar – Bob’s is the place to detox with fresh juices, veggie sandwiches on homemade bagels, soups and salads. Open for breakfast and lunch every day.

Krishna Bhavan – The vegetarian Tamil cooking at Krishna Bhavan is generous, aromatic, colorful, and cheap. Open every day from 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.

elnopaltacosEl Nopal

El Nopal – A crowd queues at this sliver of a taqueria off the canal for Claudia and Alejandro’s tacos, burritos and quesadillas. There are only two stools in the tiny place, so plan on taking it to go. Open for late lunch or early dinner. Closed Monday.

Nanashi – Colorful, Japanese-inflected salads, soups, and small plates, as well as a decidedly non-Japanese coffee cream tart, courtesy of a Rose Bakery alum. Open for breakfast, lunch and afternoon snacks. Closed Sunday.

Saravanaa Bhavan – Before getting on the Eurostar, stop for pan-Indian vegetarian fare in this bright, packed hall, part of an international chain. Open every day.

I Cugini – Pizza and pasta, in a cool corner space with sidewalk seating. Closed Saturday & Sunday.

Piccoli Cugini – This new pizzeria is the little cousin of I Cugini, also in the 10th. Open for lunch and dinner. Closed Sunday.

La Cantine de Quentin – You’ll be surrounded by an array of tempting products if you decide to lunch at this canal-side épicerie. Bottles to go, too. Lunch only. Closed Monday.

Pink Flamingo – “Pas comme les autres,” is the motto at kitschy cool Pink Flamingo Pizza. Take-out and delivery available at all locations. Closed Monday.


asparagus clamato photo catherine downClamato

Clamato – A seafood and shellfish-centric joint from Bertrand Grébaut of Septime. Expect small plates of pristine marinated fish, platters of oysters, silky crab fritters (accrabes) and maple syrup pie for dessert. Wines are natural and well-selected, just like at Septime. One of our favorite new restaurants of 2013. Open for lunch and dinner. Closed Monday & Tuesday.

CheZaline – Delphine Zampetti, recently of Le Verre Volé, has opened this bright & tiny spot, serving sandwiches, salads, and plats du jour for under 10€, to stay or to go. Lunch only. Closed Saturday and Sunday.

Jones – An all-day café with owner Florent Ciccoli in the kitchen of the space that used to be Bones. You can book online, but walk-ins are welcome, too.

Aux Deux Cygnes – Banh-mi and other French-Vietnamese fusion small plates at this pretty wine bar.

Septime Cave – A bottle shop on the block from the boys behind Septime. This isn’t a restaurant, a place for large groups, or a substitute for Septime, but it is a perfect spot for a high-quality/low-key apéro. Snack options, for those lucky enough to snag a stool or a piece of counter, include pancetta di Colonnata, house-smoked duck breast, anchovies with ricotta, foie gras with smoked eel.

Le Dauphin – This wine bar next door to (and run by) Le Chateaubriand boasts food by Inaki Aizpitarte, a smooth marble design by Rem Koolhaas and Clement Blanchet, and a great selection of affordable vins naturels. Closed Sunday and Monday.

Jeanne A – This eat-in épicerie and wine shop from the owners of the classic Astier offers classic comfort food, to stay or to go, at reasonable prices. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday.

À La Renaissance – Great natural wines by the glass, fresh well-prepared food, and congenial service at this simple bistro near Bastille. Open for lunch and dinner every day.

photo (39)Deux Fois Plus de Piment

Deux Fois Plus de Piment – The place for pepper-laden Chinese fare. Open for dinner every day and lunch on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday.

L’Entrée des Artistes – Mostly a low-key bar, but there are a few nibbles that coexist peacefully alongside the expertly mixed cocktails and natural wines. Closed Sunday.

Retro’Bottega – This little Italian épicerie-à-manger, run by the former sommelier at Rino, has four tables — two in and two out — where you can eat surrounded by exquisite spices, olive oils, and stacks of wine. Closed Sunday and Monday. Last minute booking usually okay.

Aux Deux Amis – A truly mixed crowd packs this Oberkampf wine bar, for natural wine and small plates. Closed Sunday and Monday. Last minute booking usually okay.

Al Taglio – It’s pizza by the kilo for lunch and dinner every day at this (vaguely) Roman-style spot. Bright lights, high stools and cheap wine by the carafe.

Soya – In the airy, minimally decorated dining room at Soya, you’ll find the usual vegetarian suspects (salads, curries, savory tarts, soy in all its forms), and a thoughtful wine list. Closed Saturday and Sunday.

Thank You, My Deer – This sweet coffee shop uses alternative flours like corn, rice or quinoa to make gluten-free homemade breads, waffles, cakes, and other treats for the gluten-intolerant. Open for brunch, lunch and afternoon snacks. Closed Monday.


Boucherie Les Provinces – A butcher shop just behind the Aligre market where you can purchase meat to take home, or even better, linger onsite to have it cooked to order and served up alongside market fresh sides. No reservations so come early on the weekends or be prepared for a lengthy wait. Open only for lunch and closed Mondays.

Café Cartouche – This is the second address from Rodolphe Paquin of Le Repaire de Cartouche. Closed Saturday lunch and all day Sunday.

baronrougeLe Baron Rouge

Le Baron Rouge – Join the rest of the neighborhood outside for a post-market glass of wine (direct from the barrel), a plate of cheese or charcuterie or, in winter, on weekends, a dozen oysters. Bottles to go, too. Closed for Sunday dinner and all day Monday.

Rose Bakery – Open for lunch only, you’ll find colorful salads, Neal’s Yard cheeses, strong coffee, and a stellar carrot cake at this super-bobo British bakery.

Pink Flamingo – “Pas comme les autres,” is the motto at kitschy cool Pink Flamingo Pizza. Take-out and delivery available for lunch and dinner at all locations. Closed Monday.


Au Petit Marguery – A delightfully unmodernized table, especially good in game season, when you’ll find roast partridge, grouse, wild duck, and lièvre à la royale. Finish with the Grand Marnier soufflé. Open every day.

pho14table-e1391351245689Pho 14

Pho 14 – It’s easy to find Pho 14. Just look for the line. Open every day from 9 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Les Delices de Shandong – A well-regarded Chinese table open for lunch and dinner, run by a Qingdao native, specializing in the cuisine of the Shandong province, in eastern China. Closed Wednesday.

Lao Lane Xang 2 – A much-loved address for Laotian, Vietnamese, and Thai specialties at lunch or dinner. Closed Wednesday.

Likafo – A favorite for authentic Cantonese cooking. Open for lunch and dinner every day.

Tricotin – A bustling Chinese canteen, known especially for dim sum. Open all day, every day.

L’Avant Gout – Christophe Beaufront’s neo-bistro has been a stronghold of the Buttes aux Cailles neighborhood since opening more than ten years ago. Last minute bookings usually okay. Closed Sunday & Monday.


La Cantine du Troquet – Arrive early (doors open at 7pm) to avoid a wait at this casual, no-reservations bistro run by chef Christian Etchebest. Open for dinner every day.

La Cantine du Troquet Daguerre – Another hit from Christian Etchebest featuring casual Basque bistro food. Closed Sunday.

Le Dôme – Le Dôme, with its sparkling platters of fruits de mer, remains an address for power lunches and tourists looking to rub shoulders with Hemingway’s ghost while getting their fill of zinc and iodine. Open for lunch & dinner every day.

Le Bistrot du Dôme – The smaller sibling of the grand brasserie Le Dôme, just around the corner. Open for lunch & dinner every day.

Josselin-by-Meg-ZimbeckCreperie Josselin

Creperie Josselin – The city’s most buttery, authentic crêpes served in an old-school dining room full of dark wood and Breton lace. Closed Sunday.


legrandpanLa Cantine du Troquet Dupleix

La Cantine du Troquet Dupleix – Lusty Basque fare, affordably priced. Arrive early (doors open at 7pm) to avoid a wait at this casual, no-reservations bistro run by chef Christian Etchebest.

Ty Breiz – This Montparnasse crêperie ranked #2 in Figaroscopes 2009 survey of the best galettes complètes in Paris, and made the cut for our list of Five Great for Crêpes. Continuous, all-day service. Closed Sunday and Monday.


116 – Small plates and Japanese tapas from the Michelin starred chef behind Pages.


L’Huitrier – Claires and Belons are on the menu at this sleek address in the 17th, included in our list of Five Great Places for Oysters. Closed Monday. Last minute bookings are usually okay.

Le Crabe Marteau – Pretend you’re in Brest as you hammer away at fresh crab, oysters, and other shellfish at this seafood shack. Closed Sunday. Last minute bookings are usually okay.


la rallongeLa Rallonge

La Rallonge – A casual wine bar from Chef Geoffroy Maillard serving Spanish-ish small plates, just down the street from La Table d’Eugene. Don’t miss the risotto–elbow noodles with a creamy truffled mushroom sauce and served in a tiny Staub casserole. Closed Sunday and Monday.

Jeanne B – A cheerful clone of Jeanne A for the underserved Montmartre neighborhood – this casual eatery and take-out epicerie is open seven days a week with continuous service. Open every day. Last minute bookings and walk-ins are usually okay.

chicken-pineapple-arepa--e1386079498141Bululu Arepera

Bululu Arepera – Essentially just a take-out counter and four tables, Bululu has a vegetarian-friendly menu of handmade arepas stuffed with avocado, Venezuelan cheeses, plantains, beans or meat. Closed Saturday & Sunday dinner and all day Monday & Tuesday.

Le Coq Rico – It’s all about the bird at Le Coq Rico. Open every day for lunch and dinner.

Le Grand 8 – Natural wines and simple cooking rule at this low-key Montmartre bistro. Open for lunch Saturday & Sunday and dinner Tuesday-Sunday. Closed Monday.

Miroir – A neighborhood bistro in the heart of tourist-ville. Lunch only on Sundays; closed Monday.

Le Relais Gascon – This place is known mainly for its giant, meaty salads. Open all day, every day.


Au Boeuf Couronné – Meat is king at Au Boeuf Couronné, a restaurant across the street from the Parc de la Villette (previous site of the Paris slaughterhouse). It’s a beautiful old brasserie and a reliable place (open every day) for steak lovers in search of a slab. Last minute bookings are usually okay. Open every day.

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