Le Petit Sommelier is a rare high-quality non-stop brasserie with a 1000-reference-strong wine list.
With its worn wooden tables, intricately painted ceilings, and charcuterie slicer propped on the marble counter, L'Assiette has the precise look of a dream Paris bistro. It also serves many of the classic dishes, like escargots and cassoulet, which have mostly disappeared from the city's restaurants. The far-flung location in the 14th arrondissement, near the Catacombs but far from the center, has probably helped L'Assiette to stay off the tourist radar. Chef David Rathgeber and his team are friendly with visitors but don't cater to them. The customers who come to indulge in this hearty fare are mostly local, which makes this a great option for tourists looking to avoid their own countrymen.
Address: 8 rue des Plantes, 75014
Nearest transport: Mouton Duvernet (4), Pernety (13)
Hours: Closed Saturday and Sunday; Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 45 40 40 91
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 40-59€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Reviews of interest
Simon Says (2015) “Si l’on veut manger une bonne viande à Paris, c’est ici. Même les deux bouchers « stars » qu’une fausse inimitié savamment alimentée oppose (Hugo Desnoyer et Yves-Marie Le Bourdonnec) sont d’accord là-dessus.”
Alexander Lobrano (2012) “… the best steakhouse in Paris…the charcuterie is one great reason to come here, and the sharp knives and good bread, two others… I come here to eat a pavé de rumsteak from nearby butcher Hugo Desnoyer… with a tiny magic mountain of some of the best frites in the whole world.”
John Talbott (2011) “Severo/Desnoyer’s beef is not for the faint of heart or wallet, running one 80 E for two – but it is the Gold Standard and the method of making the frites should be required reading for the chefs at the other 39,999 restos in the ville.”
Alexander Lobrano via David Lebovitz (2009) “… all will be forgiven when your steak arrives. Owner William Bernet used to work for the Boucheries Nivernaises, one of the best butchers in Paris…”
David Lebovitz (2006) “… worth the trek for the excellent meal…”
Amid the multitude of crêperies on this little street sits this good old-fashioned beer bar. It's cozy and bustling, with classic rock on the stereo, beer-friendly eats, and maybe, just maybe, NFL football on TV. Service is speedy and well-informed, and the hooks along the walls and bar are appreciated by purse-carriers and coat-wearers everywhere. In addition to the 13 beers on tap, you'll find 120 different bottled beers. Prices are a little steep, but the convivial ambiance and tasty Belgian beers are certainly worth a splurge now and then.