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Dirty Lemon

Fried oysters

Without overtly marketing itself as a lesbian bar, Dirty Lemon seeks to create a space where queer women can eat and drink safely, comfortably, and happily.

Dersou

Paired cocktails at Dersou

Maybe there’s a right way to do Dersou, one that involves sharing a sixty-day aged steak and a bottle of Crozes-Hermitage, as the happy couple next to us was doing at 11pm. We who had signed up from the tasting menu – offered for 90€ from 7:30-9pm, were less pleased. Chef Taku Sekine’s food – a series of five inventive, generous and mostly delicious plates, each paired by with a cocktail from barman Amaury Guyot, is not well-enough supported by an adolescent staff that seems to be more enthralled with their own vibe than with the banality of service.

Artisan – NOW CLOSED

NOW CLOSED

Practical information

Address: 14 rue Bochart de Saron, 75009
Nearest transport: Anvers (2)
Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 48 74 65 38
Website  Facebook

Reviews of interest

David Lebovitz (2014) “A big feature of the place is the zinc cocktail bar, where you can get excellent drinks… Bijou came in a slender cocktail glass, and was a delirious blend of gin and Chartreuse… The thinly sliced Iberian ham was a nice treat alongside as was the fried mini croque monsieur, that was perhaps the best I’ve had in Paris.”

Forest Collins (2013) “While Artisan has incorporated some successful trends like small plates, large format drinks (their punch serves four) or bottled cocktails, nothing feels gimmicky or risky. It’s quite simply a well-put together cocktail program that is as nicely balances as Fred’s drinks.”

Emmanuel Rubin (2013) “Un bar de belle civilité où cocktails d’auteur (quasi gourmands) et nourritures de comptoir twistent la canaille.”

Aaron Ayscough (2013) “An appealingly under-designed space with a big broad bar, competent cocktails, decent beer, not enough wine, and an astonishingly successful menu comprising miniaturized version of French classics: roast lamb shoulder, steak tartare, etc… Artisan presents sophisticated drinks and a lively atmosphere without Asian inflections, without caricatured Cali vibes, with no silly hidden doorways, no Mexican themes, and no vile perfumes sprayed on the cocktails – and as such, it represents the inevitable but already-overdue maturation of cocktails and bar culture in Paris. The theme is there is no theme, nor is one needed.”

Timeout (2013) “Sa carte changera toutes les deux semaines, en fonction de l’humeur du barmaid et de la chef, des fruits et légumes de saison de prime qualité. Un menu mettant l'”artisanat” des boissons et des ingrédients à l’honneur… En cas de fringale, vous piocherez des plats mitonnés à partir d’ingrédients de saison, une cuisine de marché hyper fraîche. On salive devant la bruschetta de tomates confites aux fraises et parmesan de vache rousse, suivie d’une épaule d’agneau du Quercy confite, avec son caviar d’aubergine à la flamme. Les desserts sont tout aussi tentants.”

Photo courtesy of Artisan’s Facebook

Bar 228 at Le Meurice

You don't need to be a guest at the grand Le Meurice hotel to enjoy the luxury of having tuxedoed waiters serve you solidly made classic cocktail in the intimate, clubby den. But you may need to be a millionaire. The atmosphere might be retro, but at 25 euros a pop, the prices certainly are not.

Experimental Cocktail Club

The original (and still insanely popular) speakeasy that sparked the trend in 2007 and spawned an empire that now includes Beef Club and Prescription Cocktail Club. Despite being the oldest of the new wave joints, it’s still one of the swankiest and hardest to get in.

— Catherine Down, July 2013

Beef Club

Practical information

Address: 58 rue Jean Jacques Rousseau, 75001
Nearest transport: Les Halles (4), Étienne Marcel (4)
Hours: Open every day for dinner only
Reservations: Walk-ins Welcome
Telephone: 09 54 37 13 65
Average price for dinner: 40-59€
Style of cuisine: Steak joint, classic French
Website   Facebook

Reviews of interest

Table à Découvert (2013) “Les prix s’envolent vite aussi, comptez 10-15€ pour une entrée au minimum, quant aux viandes, elles s’affichent à partir de 25 ou 30€. Ceci me semble justifié compte-tenu de la qualité et du temps de maturation de la viande (explication en quelques mots: elle est déjà restée à maturer chez l’éleveur et elle reste encore un mois dans les frigos du resto= perte d’eau et de poids, stockage, immobilisation d’espace).”

Simon Says (2012) “Le burger. Pour 23 euros, on est forcément  en embuscade… Sous le capot, il y a du monde avec bun maison au sésame, ceccina, poitrine croustillante, pickles, vieux cheddar et sauce whisky. On le boulotte avec l’énergie locale que diffuse l’habile programmation musicale.”

Le Figaro (2012) “De la mâche, des arômes, un goût comme soudain retrouvé, une viande vamp et vampire,  à vous faire oublier la béarnaise…”

L’Express (2012) “Dans l’assiette, c’est la perfection faite viande: servie épaisse, saisie à l’extérieur, saignante et chaude à coeur, des notes corsées, voire sauvages, du fondant et de la tenue en bouche…”

Alexander Lobrano (2012) “I just don’t get this completely misbegotten and off-kilter version of a New York City steakhouse cross-bred with some wispy English version of same  and then lightly extruded through a French sensibility… I might have liked this place if the food had been better than average and the service half-decent…”

Café Chilango

Practical information

Address: 82 rue de la Folie Méricourt, 75011
Nearest transport: Parmentier (3), Oberkampf (5, 9)
Hours: Closed Monday-Wednesday for lunch, Thursday-Saturday for lunch & dinner, and Sunday for brunch
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 47 00 78 95
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Mexican, coffee, vegetarian options
Facebook

Reviews of interest

Le Fooding (2015) “Karen, l’autre chef, fait éclore de délicieux tacos: pommes de terre, graines germées, sauce verte; poulet émincé sauté sauce mole, herbes; poulet, maïs bleu, coriandre, oignon rouge; fromage, haricots rouges, crème et chou arrosés de citron vert pétaradant de fraîcheur et de piquant.”

Time Out (2015) “On y découvre avec plaisir de nombreuses spécialités mexicaines faites maison, sans gluten et à un prix plutôt raisonnable (guacamole à 6, tacos à 7, assortiment de quesadillas pour 9€). Disons-le tout net, c’est très bon.”

Beyond the Hotel Bar: the Next Generation of Craft Cocktails

“Don’t bother with churches, government buildings or city squares, if you want to know about a culture, spend a night in its bars,” –Ernest Hemingway

The Bar at Mary Celeste, photo by Meg Zimbeck
The Bar at Mary Celeste. Photo by Meg Zimbeck

Serious cocktail snobs, beautiful bobos, eager expats, and beer geeks alike are buzzing around the octagonal bar at Le Mary Celeste on a weekday night. Bright, airy, young, and fun, the bar is the hub around which the restaurant itself is organized.

Le Mary Celeste

Le Mary Celeste is a venture from the people behind Candelaria and Glass. Accordingly, there’s a solid cocktail program and two Brooklyn beers on tap. Another creative and beautiful (now nautical) interior from David Rager, Cheri Messerli and Gilles Tombeur. These get a lot of attention, as do the rotating cast of mostly wild oysters sold seasonally by the piece for 2-5€. 

Candelaria

With its bright, bare-bones kitchen, crowded counter, communal table, and addictive salsas — all mercifully un-Frenchified — this upper Marais spot has officially changed the game, and people are lining up for tacos and agua fresca. Go through the unmarked door next to the stove and you’ll find a serious bar, staffed by Experimental Cocktail Club grads.