Oh, that papered over and possibly abandoned storefront? That’s Le Syndicat. Cleverly hidden in plain sight, it doesn’t consider itself a bar per se, but rather, an “Organization in Defense of French Spirits,” where Romain Le Mouëllic and Sullivan Doh (last seen at Sherry Butt) are revisiting and reviving old-fashioned French spirits as the base for unusual cocktails aimed at a fashionable, younger audience. The bar is pegboard and concrete warmed up and made gritty-glamorous by the addition of gold metallic curtains for a utilitarian chic that appeals, based on the size of the comely crowd late on a weeknight. There’s a smattering of pricey nibbles, rillettes of a few sorts or marinated vegetables, but you’re here to explore the obscure aperitifs, eaux de vies, and Cognacs of yore. For €40, commit to the Chemin Educatif which takes you on the Tour de France of booze experiences with a degustation flight of three liqueurs plus one revisited classic cocktail, and one inventive contemporary creation.