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This historic three-star restaurant is perched in a pavilion just off the Champs-Elysées and has been a dining destination since the French Revolution. Long-time chef Christian Le Squer handed the reigns to Yannick Alleno in July 2014, and Alleno has promised a renewed focus on what he considers to be the great strength of French cuisine – sauces. He is also, albeit more quietly than his rival Alain Ducasse, putting vegetables and peasant ingredients in the spotlight. Our meal featured the modest mackerel and butternut squash in starring roles, presented with both precision and imagination. A lunchtime tasting menu is priced at 128€ , and a ten course tasting menu at either lunch or dinner is 295€. The more I think about it, the more I want to return to see what happens next.