This self-taught modernist chef's signature dishes include an oyster sorbet, chicken cooked with licorice root, and a "larme" (tear) of chocolate.
Book many weeks in advance for a seat at this fantastic table d'hotes, run by a young American couple in their apartment near Palais Royal. Ten courses, including bubbly and wine pairings. OCTOBER 2011: Hidden Kitchen has closed, but you can find the pair at their new venture, Verjus.
Chef Christophe Pélé sold and left Bigarrade in early 2012. Chef Yasuhiro Kanayama is running things now, to much acclaim.
An old-fashioned bistro, open every day.