This bakery finished third in the 2009 Grand Prix de la Baguette.
In Paris, it’s possible to do a Tour de France without a bicycle, since one of the most unique layers of the city’s food chain is its many French regional tables. Indeed the cooking of almost every corner of France is available in Paris, although some regions, notably the Auvergne and Alsace, are better represented than others, like the north of France, which has just a single address, Le Graindorge, vaunting such Flemish favorites as waterzooï (chicken and vegetables stewed in cream enriched bouillon) or carbonade, beef cooked in a sauce of beer.
Baker Franck Tomberel won the 2009 Grand Prix de la Baguette.
Café des Abattoirs (75001) Lindsey Tramuta reported on Café des Abattoirs in the Times this week, calling it a “modern grill-meets-Lyonnaise bouchon” run by the Rostang sisters who “uphold their father’s penchant for simple dishes prepared with top-tier ingredients, in a family-friendly environment that has a whiff of nostalgia… Despite a few missed opportunities — a short, predictable wine list and uninspired desserts — this is feel-good Rostang cooking at its finest.”
LiLi (75016) Alexander Lobrano thinks this brand new Cantonese restaurant will be one of the biggest hits of the rentrée with “an extravagant but carefully edited program of temptations that debuts with dim sum, including the juicy Shanghai style soup dumplings below and also other more delicate and tantalizing versions of the genre, including the lobster-stuffed caviar-dressed single dim-sum that was so good I ate it in one excited bite.”
Find practical information and additional reviews on our guide page for LiLi
Stephane Davet reports today that Yam’Tcha – the celebrated and nearly impossible-to-book restaurant from chef Adeline Grattard – will be closing at some point in the next few months in order to reopen in a larger space. The new restaurant will also be in the Les Halles neighborhood but will pass from 20 to 35 covers and have space for four cooks instead of three. Anyone who has seen their current set -up can understand why she might want some more elbow room in the kitchen.
Le Comptoir du Relais (75006) Editor-in-Chief Adam Rapoport acknowledges the (still) impossibility of scoring a reservation at Yves Camdeborde’s restaurant, and then gives it some more much-needed mainstream press coverage. The appeal for him lies in “the restaurant’s bustling, studio-apartment-size space, completely free of pretense in a city famous for pretense,” and the fact that “there is no menu—you eat whatever inventive, abundantly fresh, elevated bistro dishes Camdeborde chooses to cook that evening.” Also, the cheese (much of which comes, we’ve heard, from Twiggy’s place inside the covered Saint-Germain market): “Finally, there is the cheese board, oozing with only-in-France creations (and honey and quince jam and all that good stuff) that your waiter plunks down on the table after your meal and lets you have at it.”
La Fine Mousse Restaurant (75011) Kate Robinson visited La Fine Mousse’s new restaurant, which aims to “bring beer to the dinner table and prove that it’s a worthy companion to exceptional food.” There were “still a few wrinkles to iron out, especially considering the price point,” but “there’s no denying the quality of the ingredients or the creativity of the menu.”
Read the full review at Haven in Paris
Find additional reviews and practical information for the beer bar on our page for La Fine Mousse.
Our recommendations for titles that you can cook from and book from this summer in France.
Aaron Ayscough clocks the first review of the long-awaited Le Servan from sister duo Tatiana (formerly Arpège & Astrance) and Katia Levha. He’s impressed: “Almost every component of my meal at Le Servan was sterling, a tour de force of talent and good taste.”
John Talbott calls chef Levha the “very attractive Filipino… consort of Bertrand Grebaut (of Septime),” which hurts us inside. Apparently he likes this, naming Le Servan “the best prix-qualité ratio of the year 2014.” Talbott isn’t alone in tittering about Levha’s love life: the number of writers who have managed to review this restaurant without mentioning the chef’s boyfriend can be counted on three fingers.
So picture this: you’re walking down the street in Paris on a cold night, and you’re hungry. All of a sudden something smells so damned good, so rich winey earthy and rutting, that you absolutely have to hunt it down. You work out that this irresistible olfactory lure is emanating from a ramshackle looking little place on the corner. You step inside, and one of the most power sentimental semaphores ever created—the red-and-white checked table cloth, tells you that yes, you’re in the right place, this is a real Paris bistro.
Ignore the food at these joints and snag a table for soaking up the sun in a spectacular setting. They can’t screw up opening a bottle of wine or pulling a pint too badly.
Whether you favor organic wines from small producers or the big names of Bordeaux and Burgundy, you are never far from a good bottle of wine in Paris.
You're never far from fromage in Paris. At the links below you'll find practical information for cheese shops in every neighborhood.
Among the hundreds of debuts in 2013, we added more than 50 new openings to our guide to Paris restaurants. But what did we really love? To narrow it down, we asked our contributing editors – a diverse group of Paris-based food and wine writers – to nominate their favorite new openings of 2013. Among their top picks, a few trends are clear: half are helmed by young foreigners (Canadian, Australian, Japanese, Italian), more than half include a bar for drinks and nibbles, and most are second or third offerings from an already-popular restaurant group.
Tired of getting taxed till the cows come home, belligerent farmers are protesting with a plan to blockade major routes in and out of the city this Thursday. Those venturing beyond the peripherique (shudder) will want to plan ahead and leave extra time to avoid cows, tractors, trucks and angry men with pitchforks.
The American behemoth Costco announced that it will be setting up its shop in the Parisian suburbs in spring 2015. This will be the first of 25 shops they hope to open over the next two decades.
We don’t expect this to make much of an impact on the lives of Parisians, who generally don’t drive and lack the space to store more than six rolls of toilet paper at once. But the suburbs and the countryside? They’re going to love it.
Lazare was the biggest opening of the rentrée 2013 – a splashy restaurant from a three-star chef inside the Gare Saint-Lazare. Eric Fréchon, who has been branching out from his home base of L’Epicure (formerly Le Bristol) ever since he opened Le Mini Palais in 2010, was purportedly serving Normandy-inflected comfort food to travelers en route to that region or arriving from the other side of Paris. Reviews had been ecstatic, praising the menu as “glorieusement française,” (Gaudry), noting the “friendly, professional service” (Moore) and celebrating the casual openness of the place (Rubin).
In nine years of dining in Paris and writing about its restaurants, this was the worst service I have ever experienced. It was shockingly, almost comically bad.
Wednesday November 20, 2013 (night before)
La Robe et le Palais (13 Rue des Lavandières Sainte-Opportune, 75001) Owner Olivier Schvirtz and sommelier Loic Mougene throw what is possibly Paris’ last remaining quality-conscious midnight-release party for Beaujolais Nouveau on Wednesday the 20th November. The multi-faceted event will run as follows:
- 16h-19h : Book signing by wine writer Michel Tolmer.
- 19h-22h : Normal restaurant service.
- 22h-00h : Special Beaujolais dinner, with a fixed menu of regional dishes. Beaujolais Nouveau wines saved from previous years will be served to accompany the dinner.
- 00h-2h : Party, in the probable attendance of many Beaujolais winemakers. Beaujolais Nouveau from Karim Vionnet, Jean-Claude Lapalu, France Gonzalvez, Xavier Benier. Music: Possibly.
Thursday November 21, 2013
Café de la Nouvelle Mairie (19 Rue des Fossés Saint-Jacques, 75005) Benjamin Courty and Corentin Cucillat are the latest owners of this historic natural wine bar in the 5ème, which has changed hands over the course of its 20 years in business, but has always remained a destination for magnificent wine and simple bistrot cuisine. A daube de boeuf will accompany the gypsy jazz and sought-after primeurs. Beaujo Nouveau by Guy Breton & Jean-Claude Lapalu plus vin primeur by Jean-François Nicq.
The best picnic provisions near the Canal St. Martin.
The best picnic provisions between & around these two wonderful parks on the northeast side of Paris.
The best picnic provisions along the banks of the Seine river.
The best picnic provisions near the Esplanade des Invalides (the lawn in front of that giant gold dome).
The best picnic provisions near the Palais Royale and the Tuileries.
The best picnic provisions available near the Luxembourg Gardens.
Many of our readers would struggle to name an iconic French dish that isn’t based on (or mightily improved by) something that came from an animal. But according to our Contributing Editor Clotilde Dusoulier, who just released a new cookbook celebrating the bounty of our local markets, an important shift is taking place in France.
What: Cream puffs filled to order (nature, chocolat, café)