Former Au Passage bartender Löic Martin opened his eponymous bar-restaurant in late 2014 in the shell of a former PMU betting parlor, placing his money on sincere small-plates, a populist booze program, and a boldly central location. Over the course of a few years and a few conceptual tweaks, Martin the bar-restaurant has blossomed into a booming shabby-chic nightspot, the social anchor of the haute-Marais, one of the few wide terraces in Paris offering truly excellent cuisine at accessible prices.
If you want a taste of Gregory Marchand’s cooking without the challenge of scoring a reservation at Frenchie, this sister wine bar is a great option. However, there are caveats. A victim of its own popularity, Frenchie Bar à Vins is often chaotic, loud, and a little uncomfortable. But chaos and noise, when combined with creative and delicious small plates, not to mention a fascinating wine list, can combine to make for some wonderfully memorable evenings.
Founded in 2018 by two industry veterans, Goguette stands out from the stiff competition for its accessibility, credibility, and versatility. It’s the rare Paris establishment that succeeds as both a formidable restaurant and a fun, spontaneous wine bar.
For the wine-indifferent, Café de la Nouvelle Mairie is merely a timeless, picturesque terraced café on a shady lane beside the Panthéon. But for alert wine geeks, it might as well be the Panthéon itself, as pertains to natural wine.
Of Yves Camdeborde’s three Avant Comptoirs, this is the one worth making a special trip – a place where the scale of the site finally matches that Camdeborde’s ambition. Here you can partake in a trinity of artisanal hams, novelty offal preparations, and natural wines, with space to savor them.
Since Chambre Noire first opened in 2015, it has become the city’s most daring and youthful natural wine bar. It offers an inexpensive dive into the European sulfur-free winemaking vanguard. At this no-reservations destination, no bottles are priced over 35€. Arrayed in a luminescent panoply above the chaotic bar, these zippy, mouthwatering wines shine in a way they don’t when presented in a luxury restaurant context.
Come here less for the food (options are well-chosen but slim) than for the owner’s omnivorous natural wine selection, ranging from the wiry Catalonian curiosities of Partida Creus to easygoing crowd-pleasers like the Mâconnais chardonnay of Domaine Guillot-Broux. Wine prices are fair, at retail plus 10€ corkage, and this alone can render Augustin Marchand d’Vins in Saint-Germain.