Tag Archives: 75003

Elmer

Practical information

Address: 30 rue Notre-Dame de Nazareth, 75003
Nearest transport: Temple (3), République (3, 5, 8, 9, 11)
Hours: Closed Sunday; Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch & dinner and Monday & Saturday for dinner only
Reservations: Book a week in advance
Telephone: 01 43 56 22 95
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 40-59€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Website   Facebook

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2016) “They were among the best ribs I’ve ever had anywhere – moist on the inside, crispy on the outside, tasting of wood and Southern sauce.”

Table à Découvert (2016) “Simon Horwitz, le chef d’Elmer, a une idée en tête: le charbon et la rôtissoire. Et avouez que pour cuire une épaule d’agneau, on n’a pas trouvé mieux.”

Paris Bouge (2016) “Les canettes de Challans et l’agneau des Pyrénées se rôtissent et s’accompagnent de légumes ultra saisonniers passés à la flamme ou crus dans des assiettes pour deux. Les entrées se patchworkent pour divertir tous les convives des associations Horwitziennes bien pensées. On retiendra particulièrement un céleri cuit au foin, croquant et juteux, des anchois et des chips de champignon.”

L’Express (2016) “Un nouveau bistrot branché? Bien mieux que ça! Simon Horwitz dévoile une épatante popote néobistrotière, en mêlant gastronomie française et inspirations d’Amérique du Sud, d’Australie ou encore d’Asie.”

Libération (2016) “Les plats sont un peu onéreux : ils coûtent une vingtaine d’euros et il n’y a pas encore de menu, pas même le midi (le chef y réfléchit). Cependant, s’ils sont tous du niveau de la canette de Challans… ça vaut le coup. Généreuse, tendre, rosée, elle est, contre toute attente, divinement relevée par le top 3 de la verdure la moins sexy du monde: coing-endive-choux de Bruxelles. Le coing est sucré et acidulé, l’endive fondante, le chou craquant, le tout lié par une bonne sauce brune. Impec.”

Le Fooding (2015) “Après avoir fait ses classes chez Wahid, Gagnaire, Grébaut et Meneau, voyagé en Asie et en Amérique latine, le chef s’est enfin posé pour en griller une (cane mi-sauvage, au charbon de bois), en tournant la rôtissoire et tricotant des assiettes polychromes, trilogiques et déstructurées: coucou de Rennes + betterave + oignon rôti; agneau de lait des Pyrénées + topinambour + brocolito; merlu de ligne + panais + chou de Bruxelles…”

Photo courtesy of Elmer’s Facebook page

Mmmozza

Mmmozza has one of the bbbest selections of mozzarella that you’ll find in the city, ranging from tiny bocconcini, to a  baseball-sized burrata stuffed with black truffles, to an enormous braided rope of bufala mozzarella, hacked off by the slice. The skinny sliver of an Italian specialty shop has lines out the door at lunch for its messy, affordable sandwiches featuring fresh mozzarella, cured meats and vegetables, and arugula. When the weather is nice, there’s outdoor seating or you can chow down in the Square du Temple park directly opposite. A variety of imported prosciuttos and salamis, stuffed pastas, oils and vinegars, and a small but quality range of Italian wines are also available for purchase.

— Catherine Down, January 2016

Continue reading Mmmozza

Crêperie Mad Eo

Practical information

Address: 19 rue de Picardie, 75003
Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8)
Hours: Closed Monday; Open Tuesday-Sunday for lunch & dinner
Reservations: Book a day or two in advance
Telephone: 01 42 78 93 06
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Crêpes, Breton, vegetarian options
Website   Facebook

Reviews of interest

Time Out (2016) “Mad Eo, an unpretentious little place in the 3rd arrondissement, is something of a blessing. From the crêpe batter to the garnishes via the ciders and beers, everything here is artisanal, organic, largely gluten-free, sourced in Brittany and completely home-made.”

L’Express (2015) “Dans un charmant duplex de poche, le biniou tourne à plein régime, et les produits bio, en direct des producteurs, défilent dans une crêpe croustillante et légèrement caramélisée, qui reste moelleuse en son sein. Les blés sont cultivés par un meunier finistérien, les légumes (excellente tombée d’orties) sont signés Annie Bertin, la maraîchère d’Ille-et-Vilaine, le râpé est un Ty Pavez, une très bonne pâte pressée de lait de vache de Briec, et l’andouille, puissante, vient de Guémené-sur-Scorff.”

Le Figaro (2015) “Une crêperie dont le fort caractère finistérien est la marque de fabrique. On y trouve des crêpes bio et artisanales composées à 100% de blé noir.”

Le Fooding (2015) “Ici, on ne fait que des «crêpes de l’Ouest», à la farine artisanale bretonne, 100 % blé noir, eau et gros sel pour les salées. Moelleuses au milieu, croustillantes sur les côtés, et bien garnies: beurre Le Ponclet, véritable andouille de Guémené-sur-Scorff, confiture de cidre de Riec-sur-Belon, fromage de ferme râpé sur place… Résultat, posées sur de superbes écuelles Breizh made, la complète comme la saucisse-fromage-oignons-orties défoncent tout.”

Photo via Mad Eo’s Facebook page

Trois Fois Plus de Piment

Practical information

Address: 184 rue St Martin, 75003
Nearest transport: Rambuteau (11)
Hours: Closed Monday; Open Tuesday-Sunday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Walk-Ins Welcome
Telephone: 06 52 66 75 31
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Chinese, Szechuan
Facebook

Reviews of interest

Time Out (2016) “On choisit ensuite son plat de pâtes (avec ou sans soupe) comme les Dan Dan (porc haché, cacahuètes, ciboulette) en indiquant le degré de piment que l’on souhaite sur une échelle de 1 à 5.  La serveuse, sans doute habituée aux Parisiens jackass, nous conseille d’opter pour un niveau 2 : et franchement c’est déjà assez hardcore. Outre le piment, le bouillon est très parfumé, les nouilles fraîches et le porc délicieux.”

Le Fooding (2015) “Dedicated to Sichuan noodles and ravioli (100% homemade), the miniature menu written out by hand is pretty similar to the one at the mother house: pork dumplings served with chaozhou (a bitter and spicy sauce) or in a soup; really good noodles with ground pork in a sauce that’s been slow-cooked with grilled chilies; vermicelle noodles in vinegar.”

Thrillist (2015) “The second outpost of beloved Deux Fois Plus de Piment, this indo-chinese restaurant will provide the spice you so rarely find (but so desperately need.)”

Paris Bouge (2015) “Les moins aventureux opteront pour le niveau 1, avec des raviolis sichuanais à la pâte maison fondante et élastique comme il faut : le piment titille gentiment. Les nouilles Dan Dan relèvent un peu le jeu : des nouilles à la belle mâche, un juteux porc épicé, des cacahuètes qui croquent et une touche acidulé avec le vinaigre de riz. Niveau deux surpassé. Les plus audacieux se risqueront au niveau 5: défi lancé.”

Maison Plisson

This sprawling 500m² space on the edge of the trendy Northern Marais does double duty. On one side, it’s an upscale market, boasting fresh fruits and vegetables, high quality cheeses, charcuterie, and deli items, as well as a bakery, an excellent selection of wines and a range of luxury local and imported grocery items. On the other, it’s a café, serving a small range of dishes made from ingredients sold next door. In a neighborhood surprisingly devoid of good grocery purveyors, the store is a revelation: The boulangerie turns out the best croissants for several blocks, the charcuterie is excellent and this is the go-to spot for top-notch pickles or proper English tea. With the Bastille market just around the corner customers might balk at the price of produce here, but if only kale will do, this is the store for you. In the café, the concise lunch menu offers very good – if overpriced – simple French classics. At a lower price point, and for smaller appetites, there’s also a nice selection of quiches, tartines and sandwiches.

— Emily Brookes, November 2015

Continue reading Maison Plisson

SOMA

Practical information

Address: 13 rue de Saintonge, 75003
Nearest transport: Saint-Sébastien-Froissart (8), Temple (3)
Hours: Closed Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner; Open Sunday for lunch only
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 09 81 82 53 51
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 20-39€
Style of cuisine: Japanese
Facebook

Reviews of interest

Time Out (2015) “Soma réussit avec brio à faire le lien entre tradition bistronomique et cuisine japonaise de haut vol… Un voyage enthousiasmant et nettement plus abordable (entre 40 et 50 euros par tête de pipe et vous serez pleinement rassasiés) qu’un aller-retour à Paris-Tokyo.”

L’Express (2014) “Une furieuse cantine nippo-fusion à prix calmes! Sou vous promène du Japon à l’Asie du Sud-Est au fil d’un menu “omakase” (selon l’humeur du chef) qui varie suivant votre budget et votre appétit. ”

Le Fooding (2014) “Sourasack Phongphet, chef du regretté Ploum (primé par le Guide Fooding 2005), s’est installé dans un bistrot japonais tout neuf et tout stylé… Derrière son comptoir, chapeau de paille sur la tête et chemisette sur le dos, le gars fait le show, catapultant de fraîches bombinettes: aubergines au gingembre à l’arrière-goût fumé, saupoudrées de copeaux de bonite séchée ; exquis coquillages (palourdes, clams et petits couteaux) au saké… Et, pour les amateurs, des crevettes de Madagascar poêlées vivantes qui bougent encore dans l’assiette!”

A Food Tale (2014) “Au milieu de la grande pièce, Sourasack sert des petites portions précises (Excellents Makis au thon épicé), bien troussées (Salade de Poulpe infusée au thé vert) et surtout, bien bonnes (Surprenante et excellente cervelle d’agneau en tempura)… Belle sélection de sakés avec notes de dégustation pour vous guider si vous n’y connaissez rien.”

Paris Bouge (2014) “Dans nos assiettes, des recettes du terroir japonais où se mêlent des inspirations françaises, comme le tartare de chinchard à la feuille de shisho, une salade de poulpe infusé au thé vert, un bœuf mi-cuit sauce ponzu, du black angus poêlé sauce teriyaki, pour ne citer qu’eux. Le dessert n’est pas en reste avec une version du pain perdu franco-japonaise et sa glace au thé. Côté bouteilles, un large choix de vins naturels est proposé et on retrouve le saké bien sûr.”

Photo courtesy of SOMA’s Facebook page

The Beast

Frenchman Thomas Abramowicz spent a year training in central Texas and tracking down everything he would need (meat, wood, Bourbon) to open the first authentic smokehouse in Paris. Beef is king here, in the form of slow and low smoked brisket and gigantic ribs, but barbecued chicken, baby back ribs and pulled pork also feature on the short menu. Vinegary cole slaw and steamed vegetables instead of baked beans or mac & cheese, but you can still expect to finish with pecan pie. Or just have another Bourbon – there are more than 50 to choose from – including impossible to find Pappy Van Winkle’s and a 22-year Elijah Craig – plus a handful of craft beers and natural red wines. Read the backstory here.

Continue reading The Beast

Rachel’s

Practical information

Address: 25 rue du Pont aux Choux, 75003
Nearest transport: Saint-Sébastien – Froissart (8)
Hours: Open Monday & Tuesday 12pm-6pm; Wednesday & Thursday 12pm-10.30pm; Friday & Saturday 12pm-11pm; Sunday 11am-4pm
Reservations: Walk-Ins Welcome
Telephone: 01 44 61 69 68
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 20-39€
Style of cuisine: American
Facebook

Reviews of Interest

Table à Découvert (2015) “… le sandwich au poulet mariné au lait ribot et frit dans une panure dorée et très appétissante qui fait penser à des flocons de maïs. Le poulet est très, très moelleux et la panure croustillante. Le filet est surmonté d’un coleslaw, le meilleur jamais goûté… Oignon rouge, chou blanc, pomme fruit, carotte, coriandre à gogo, malossol, sauce pimentée (et pas avec le dos de la cuillère) et peut-être d’autres choses encore. Le pain, tel un bun américain, est moelleux à souhait. Les frites sont pas mal du tout et la salade de pousses tendres est là pour rafraîchir un peu. Je me régale.”

Time Out (2014) “Tous ces ingrédients viennent composer, avec le doux parfum du fait maison, de plantureuses salades (entre 12 et 18 euros, selon la taille), de gargantuesques sandwichs (autour de 17 euros) et d’indécentes pâtisseries (entre 6 et 9 euros). Et le diable, qui a l’habitude de se cacher dans les détails, aurait bien du fil à retordre ici, puisque tout semble avoir été soigneusement pensé.”

Figaroscope (2014) “Jusqu’alors Miss cheesecake précieuse à fournir nombre d’adresses parisiennes, Rachel lance ce resto d’une «yankeetude» inspirée. Une cuisine mêlant côte Ouest, western chic.”

Paris Bouge (2014) “Pas de surprise, c’est bon. Et c’est également beau! En bref, une adresse qui risque de faire beaucoup parler d’elle!”

Le Fooding (2014) “…tout est maison : pickles, pulled pork et pastrami, choucroute, condiments, fumages, frites, glaces… Alors, forcément, le parfum des States se hume dans ses salades… ses méga-sandwichs… et ses plats du soir.”

Photo courtesy of Rachel’s Facebook page

Le Barav’

This friendly upper Marais wine bar serves simple charcuterie, cheese, salads, and sandwiches to go along with 5€ glasses, or a bottle from their cave next door. The plate of truffled ham is always a good bet.  In the summer, there’s a great terrace on the street.

-Catherine Down, September 2015

Continue reading Le Barav’

Boot Café

A shoebox sized coffee shop inside of a former cobbler. The coffee’s made for walking so plan to take your Belleville Brûlerie coffee and Emperor Norton baked goods to go.

Practical information

Address: 19 rue du Pont aux Choux, 75003
Nearest transport: Saint-Sébastien-Froissart (8)
Hours: Open every day
Telephone: 06 26 41 10 66
Style of cuisine: Cakes & cookies
Facebook

Reviews of interest

Sugared & Spiced (2015) “This tiny hole in the wall is one of my favorite cafes in Paris. The original “cordonnerie” (shoe repair) facade is kept, while the interior has been renovated into a charming space filled with color block chairs, eclectic collages, and gorgeous flowers in full bloom. Delicious coffee and handsome-looking pastries, but of course.”

The New York Times (2014) “This year the city hosted its first coffee-making competition by AeroPress, a manufacturer of innovative brewing devices. Top prize went to Melodie Knight, a barista at Boot Café, a tiny nook lined with white subway tile and glossy lifestyle magazines that was opened this year (and designed) by Phil Euell, a transplanted New Yorker and furniture designer.”

Paris Bouge (2014) “Pas du jus de chaussettes, mais plutôt celui des grains de la brûlerie de Belleville… très fort en goût, décliné en crème (4 euros), expresso (2,50 euros) et noisette (3 euros). Une valeur sûre pour les amateurs du petit noir. Le temps de loucher sur ce carrot cake qui s’offre gracieusement sur le comptoir (3,50 euros) et hop!”

Clasico Argentino

This Argentinian restaurant and traiteur specializes in empanadas and helado — ice cream.

Practical information

Address: 217 rue du Faubourg Saint Antoine, 75012
Nearest transport: Faidherbe-Chaligny (8)
Hours: Every day, 12-3pm and 6:30-10pm
Reservations: Reservations not necessary
Telephone: 01 56 06 95 14
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: South American
Website

Additional Locations

Address: 56 rue de Saintonge, 75003
Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8)
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, noon-11p.m.; Closed Monday
Reservations: Reservations not necessary
Telephone: 01 44 61 00 56

Reviews of interest

Time Out (2013) “There’s something for everyone: beef, ham and cheese, tuna, humita sweetcorn with coriander and choriempa herby pork. On the side, fresh rocket and spicy chimichurri sauce. Punchy Argentinean wines go perfectly with all this, or a local Quilmes beer. For dessert, there’s a lovely list of artisanal ice cream (raspberries with malbec, zagablione, dulce de leche) or sweet empanadas with dulce de leche.”

David Lebovitz (2012) “The flavors were very good – especially the swirl of cold sabayon ice cream, rich with the flavor of egg yolks and wine, and the dulce de leche was thick and chewy…”

Fondation Café

A tiny spot near the Marché des Enfants Rouges from barista Chris Nielsen (formerly of Ten Belles) with an equally tiny menu of espressos, lattes, and filtered coffee from Belleville Brûlerie, plus a handful of sweets from Emperor Norton. The closet sized space (sans toilet) doesn’t encourage lingering so plan to pound your shot of espresso and depart. When it’s warm out, it’s another story entirely as there is a tiny terrasse you can take advantage of.

Practical information

Address: 16 Rue Dupetit Thouars, 75003
Nearest transport: Temple (3)
Hours:
Open every day 8am-6pm
Average price for coffee: 2.50-4€
Style of cuisine: cookies & cakes
Website Facebook

Reviews of interest

Time Out (2014) “Keeping it French with espressos, café crèmes and filters – allowing for crucial iced lattes in summer. Food-wise, it’s more of a snack menu, with Emperor Norton providing the cakes and slices, and a breakfast choice of granola or delicious tartines with fresh avocado and cracked sea salt or ricotta and honey.  If you’re a coffee aficionado, you’ll be interested to know that Fondation Café is proud to be the only place in Paris sporting a mean steel Kees van der Western Spirit coffee machine.”

Lindsey Tramuta-Morel (2013) “Chris is the first barista in Paris to work with designer Kees Van Der Westen’s ‘Spirit’, a machine known as much for its performance as its ergonomic and decidedly striking design.”

Hipsters in Paris (2013) “Unsurprisingly the coffee is excellent, whether its a café latte or a succinct cup of filter. For those that prefer their beverages without caffeine, there is freshly squeezed OJ and artisan lemonades and cola. Emperor Norton are on snacks. Think banana bread, delicious tarts and their now signature Granola. As well as avocado on toast (hurrah!) and Italian ricotta lovingly spread on crunchy toast with a lash of honey.

Photo via Fondation’s Facebook

Café Pinson

Practical information

Address: 6 rue du Forez, 75003
Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8)
Hours: Open Monday-Saturday for breakfast, lunch & dinner and Sunday for brunch
Reservations: Walk-ins welcome, but book a day or two in advance for brunch
Telephone: 09 83 82 53 53
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Vegetarian & vegan, soups/salads/sandwiches, healthy eating
Website   Facebook

Additional Locations 

Address: 58 rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, 75010
Nearest transport: Poissonnière (7), Cadet (7)
Hours: Open Monday-Saturday for breakfast & lunch and Sunday for brunch
Telephone: 01 45 23 59 42

Address: at Le 66, 66 Avenue des Champs-Elysées, 75008
Nearest transport: Saint-Philippe-du-Roule (9)
Hours: Open every day for lunch

Reviews of interest

Le Figaro (2014) “Risotto champignons, potimarron, échalotes confites et kale: plus un riz cuisiné qu’un risotto mais pas désagréable. Galette de pomme de terre, épinards, pesto de kale: sans grande finesse. Cake citron-pavot: carré.”

Lost in Cheeseland (2013) “American chef Cameil Kaundart swaps refined sugar for agave syrup or non-refined sugar to sweeten up desserts and uses almond or hazelnut milk for all coffee and spiced tea beverages. A rainbow of fresh savory dishes changes regularly and you can expect a hearty range of salty-sweet treats for weekend brunch (that is, if you were wise enough to reserve a spot).”

Le Figaro (2013) “Archétype sans  faux pli de la dînette «Marais»  où, sous le motif d’un décor  rétro-minimaliste, le régime naturopathe (du bio, du veggie,  du sans gluten) se glamourise dans l’instant de recettes  pleines de jugeote.”

Unlock Paris (2013) “The daytime cafe has a seasonal, daily-changing menu of mostly vegan dishes, made without dairy and without gluten, such as kale, lentil and tofu salad, or beetroot and alfalfa tart, available in a fixed menu including a starter, main course and dessert for €17. Vitamin-packed fresh juices are made to order and cafe from Coutume is also on the menu for those needing even more of a boost.”

Photo via Café Pinson’s Facebook

Josephine Vannier

Near the Places des Vosges, Vannier offers playful chocolate sculptures and a range of bon bons.

Practical information

Address: 4 rue du Pas de la Mule, 75003
Nearest transport: Chemin Vert (8)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 11am-1pm and 2pm-7pm; Sunday, 2:30pm-7pm; closed Monday
Telephone: 01 44 54 03 09
Website Facebook

Reviews of interest

Figaroscope (2010) “..sa vitrine remplie de sculptures cacaotées incite, non sans raison, à venir y goûter de plus près.”

David Lebovitz (2007) “A hands-down favorite of ours was the piquant Pain d’Epices, dipped chocolates with a dusting of spices on top and a burst of peppery-spices in the ganache filling. The spices were fresh and strong, although the subdued chocolate was a bit overwhelmed by the assertive flavors inside. The Café Pralinés were cleverly scribbled with a musical note and probably have their own cult-status in Paris. And I especially hypnotized by the Nougat; that airy, tender, honey-scented confection with crunchy nuts enrobed in chocolate.”

Photo courtesy of Josephine Vannier’s Facebook

Fromagerie Jouannault

This family run fromagerie (and affineur) is part of a stretch of food shops on rue de Bretagne, and just outside the Marché des Enfants Rouges.

 An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 39 rue de Bretagne
Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 8am-1pm and 4pm-8pm; Sunday, 8:30am-1pm; closed Monday
Telephone: 01 42 78 52 61
Website

Reviews of Interest

Les Tasters (2012) “Cette boutique à l’ancienne propose des produits que l’on achète de moins en moins frais…Si vous voulez rencontrer l’homme qui ne souriait jamais, demandez le patron, si vous préférez l’accueil sourire et enthousiaste, tapez 2 et demandez sa fille, (comme quoi ce n’est pas génétique) qui a travaillé pour Neal’s Yard!”

Tout Autour du Pain

This upper Marais bakery, which changed its name in late 2015 from 134 RdT, has placed three times among the top ten winners of the Best Baguette in Paris competition. Baker Benjamin Turquier has also won first prize in the city’s competition to name the Best Croissant in Paris.

Continue reading Tout Autour du Pain

Gérard Mulot

This traiteur/pâtisserie/boulangerie offers a visual feast of grand cakes and tarts, tiny and tempting petit-fours, chocolates, savory prepared foods, and baguettes to boot.

Practical information

Address: 76 rue de Seine, 75006
Nearest transport: Odéon (4,10)
Hours:Closed Wednesday; Monday-Sunday 6:45am-8:00pm
Telephone: 01 42 78 52 17
Website

Additional Locations

Address: 6 rue du Pas de la Mule, 75003
Nearest transport: Chemin Vert (8)
Hours:Closed Monday; Open Tuesday-Sunday 8am-8pm
Telephone: 01 45 26 85 77

Address: 93 rue de la Glacière, 75013
Nearest transport: Glacière (6)
Hours: Closed Monday; Open Tuesday-Sunday 10am-7:30pm
Telephone: 01 45 81 39 09

Reviews of interest

Le Figaro (2011) Ranked #1 in their test of the city’s best strawberry tarts.

David Lebovitz (2007) “…magnificent fruit tarts, from simple to architectural, buttery pastries which include a rich-rich-rich chocolate coconut fondant that’s barely finish-able (if that’s a word), and an impressive selection of hearth-baked breads for the appreciative crowds that are always oogling the pastries in the shop.”

Camille Malmquist (2008) “I like the way Mulot has taken some liberties with traditional pastries while retaining their integrity and palatability.  (By which I mean, there wasn’t anything that was weird for the sake of being weird.)  It all made sense, but none of it was boring.”

Photo via Gérard Mulot’s website

Jacques Genin

Madman Jacques Genin crafts some of the city’s most exquisite chocolate, but he’s almost equally known for his caramels and pâtes de fruits. Visit his salon in the northern Marais to gain access to a made-to-order millefeuille or a pot of decadent chocolat chaud. Update: as of January 2013, Genin is no longer making individual-sized pastries to go (many of which are reviewed below), but you can still order a pastry of the day or a millefeuille in the salon.

Continue reading Jacques Genin

Popelini

This bakery — named for the Italian cook who supposedly invented pâte à choux — sells only cream puffs. Tiny, adorable cream puffs.

Practical information

Address: 53 rue Debelleyme, 75003
Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8)
Hours: Closed Monday
Telephone: 01 44 61 31 44
Website Facebook

Reviews of interest

Time Out (2012) “The sweet little mouthfuls with their creamy centres are decorated with Morello cherries or finished with lemon, caramel, pistachio. Allow €1.85 each, €11 for 6 and €21 for 12.”

T Magazine (2011) “On any given day, the choux are lined up in a half dozen flavors including dark chocolate, lemon praline, salted butter caramel, Madagascar vanilla and rose; some have an additional confit filling of passion fruit or raspberry.”

Caroline Mignot (2011) “Je dirais que c’est le genre de petites choses parfaites à dévorer sur le moment, en sortant de la boutique, tandis que la crème sort de tous les côtés..”

Paris Pâtisseries (2011) “…it’s a cute shop in a fun little neighborhood. However . . . the work isn’t where it could be. I purchased three rose-framboise, a violette, a caramel, a pistache and a vanille; they were all ok – better than average…”

Dorie Greenspan (2011) “…the spare new boutique is not much bigger than the puffs in the display case — and the puffs are petit.  Very. They’re also deeply flavorful — the creams are velvety, luxurious, really, and full-flavored.”

L’Atelier Vivanda

Practical information

Address: 18 rue Lauriston, 75016
Nearest transport: Charles de Gaulle-Etoile (1, 2, 6)
Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday; Open Monday-Friday for lunch & dinner
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 40 67 10 00
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 20-39€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, steak joint
Website   Facebook

Additional Locations

Address: 20 rue du Cherche Midi, 75006
Nearest transport: Sèvres-Babylone (10, 12), Saint Sulpice (4)
Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinner
Telephone: 01 45 44 50 44

Address: 82 rue des Archives, 75003
Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8)
Hours: Closed Monday & Tuesday; Open Wednesday-Sunday for lunch & dinner
Telephone: 01 42 71 48 07

Reviews of interest

Table à Découvert (2015) “J’ai choisi la hampe de boeuf de race black angus, j’adore ça la hampe. Je ne vous dis pas à quel point elle est spécifiquement savoureuse ici. De la mâche, le juste équilibre de filandreux, très goûteuse et parfaitement cuite entre la croûte extérieure et le saignant à l’intérieur… Le morceau «persillé» également proposé à la carte est plus persillé et également très, très bon. Je crois que je peux y retourner dans pas très longtemps pour lui.”

Le Figaro (2014) ” Parfaitement bien vu, le menu à 35€ (entrée-plat-dessert) propose six choix de viande dont un persillé Black Angus, un quasi de veau ou une côte de porc ibérique. Cuites selon nos vœux, d’une belle tendreté, elles sont toutes accompagnées d’une déclinaison en cinq variantes de pommes de terre: gratin dauphinois (très réussi), pommes darphin, purée, etc.”

Le Figaro (2014) “Du bon chic, bonne chair dans un quartier taillé pour.”

Les Grands Ducs (2013) “Tout ici, dans ce micro-resto (24 couverts pris d’assaut) a été pensé dans cette optique carnée : on y mange sur les billots de boucher, sous le regard de quelques bovins (photographiés, aux murs, je vous rassure) et la charmante serveuse qui s’occupe de vous porte un tablier de cuir des fort des Halles. La cuisine est ouverte, comme partout désormais, et y pendent quelques belles pièces de boeuf et de volaille.”

Philippe Toinard (2012) “Une fois le destin de la pomme de terre choisi, il ne vous reste plus qu’à lui adjoindre un compagnon, un ris de veau, un suprême de volaille de Challans, un magret de canard, de la pluma Ibérique ou du coeur d’entrecôte. Bien snacké, le ris de veau a de quoi plaire mais force est de constater que le coeur d’entrecôte est idéalement persillé et extrêmement fondant en bouche.”

John Talbott (2012) “The waitfolk have leather butchers’ aprons and they bring over some Iberic ham right off the bat so you know they mean serious meat business. We had sticker shock at the nice prices of the wines – ours was a terrific Elian Da Rosa Cotes du Marmadais. We each had potatoes a different way (a la Vivanda – halved with high heat and duck fat, Dauphinois, sauteed, Dauphine) bent on testing them head to head, but wouldn’t you know they were all good.”

Photo via L’Atelier Vivanda’s Facebook page

La Bague de Kenza

Make a pot of mint tea or strong black coffee and bite into these fragrant, sticky-sweet Algerian pastries.

Practical information

Address: 106 rue Saint Maur, 75011
Nearest transport: Parmentier (3)
Hours: Every day 9am-10pm
Telephone: 01 43 14 93 15

Additional locations

Address: 233 rue de la Convention, 75015
Nearest transport: Convention (12)
Telephone: 01 42 50 02 97

Address: 70 rue de Turbigo, 75003
Nearest transport: Temple
Telephone: 01 44 61 06 39

Address: 173 rue du Faubourg St-Antoine, 75012
Nearest transport: Faidherbe-Chaligny
Hours: Monday-Thursday 11am-8pm, Friday 1:30pm-9pm, Saturday 10am-9pm, Sunday 10am-8pm
Telephone: 01 43 41 47 02

Address: 31 rue Linné, 75005
Nearest transport: Jussieu (7,10)
Telephone: 01 45 87 02 04

Address: 136 rue Saint Honoré, 75001
Nearest transport: Louvre-Rivoli (1)
Hours: Saturday-Thursday 10am-8pm, Friday 2:30pm-8:00pm
Telephone: 01 42 86 85 23

Reviews of interest

Barbra Austin (2009) “Sticky honey, rich nuts, the crunch of semolina, the perfume of orange and roses, chewy dates, rose:  These are the themes upon which the the variations of Algerian sweets are built.  And they are sweet:  The honey in some of them is dizzying, toothache-inducing. I mean that in a good way.”

Caroline Mignot (2009) “…je pense que cela fera plaisir aux amateurs voisins. A savoir aussi, on peut commander un couscous (pour 6 personnes minimum) ou un tajine à emporter. On retrouve toujours ces galettes salées à dévorer et bien sûr ces étages de pâtisseries algériennes.”

Clotilde Dusoulier (2006) “It’s okay not to know the names of all (or any) of the little guys: the staff often caters to novices, so you can just smile and point, or ask for an assortment… their confections show a subtlety and balance that clearly set them apart from the cloying, oily specimens one occasionally comes across. And because the shop is renowned and popular, their turnover is high and their selection correspondingly fresh.”

Première Pression Provence

A user-friendly (and increasingly omnipresent) olive oil shop featuring a range of oils from small producers. Grab a plastic spoon because you can taste just about everything in the shop.

Practical information

Address: 3 rue Antoine Vollon, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Tuesday-Friday, noon-2:30pm and 3:30-7:30pm; Saturday, 10:30am-2:30pm and 3:30pm-7:30pm; closed Sunday and Monday
Telephone: 01 53 33 03 59
Website

Additional locations

Address: 7 Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 75003
Nearest transport: Hôtel de Ville (1,11)
Hours: Closed Monday
Telephone: 01 44 54 93 71

Address: 9 rue des Martyrs, 75009
Nearest transport: Notre Dame de Lorette (12)
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 10:30am-2:30pm and 3:30pm-7:30pm; closed Monday
Telephone: 01 48 78 86 51

Address: 15 rue Daguerre, 75014
Nearest transport: Denfert-Rochereau (4, 6, RER B)
Hours: Monday, 2pm-8pm; Tuesday-Saturday, 10:30am-2:30pm and 3:30pm-8pm; Sunday, 10am-2pm
Telephone: 01 43 22 66 29

Address: 37 rue de Lévis, 75017
Nearest transport: Villiers (2, 3)
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 10:30am-2:30pm and 3:30-8pm; Sunday, 10am-2pm
Telephone: 01 40 54 81 63

Address: 8 cours du Commerce Saint André, 75006
Nearest transport: Odéon (4, 10)
Hours: Monday-Friday, noon-3pm and 3:30pm-8pm; Saturday, noon-10pm; Sunday, noon-8pm
Telephone: 01 43 26 79 72

Café des Musées

Practical information

Address: 49 rue de Turenne, 75003
Nearest transport: Chemin Vert (8), St. Paul (1)
Hours: Open every day for lunch & dinning
Reservations: Walk-ins welcome
Telephone: 01 42 72 96 17
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 40-59€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Website   Book Online

Reviews of interest

Reviews under new management:

Table à Découvert (2014) “C’est ouvert le lundi midi, ce qui est pratique, ils sont bien aimables, ce que j’aime aussi, rapides et la cuisine s’avère efficace et goûteuse. Parisiens, gens de tous âges, de tous styles, Américains, moi j’aime bien cette multiplicité, je m’y sens toujours plus à l’aise que quand c’est monogenre. La cuisine présente dans l’entrée, le vieux carrelage, les banquettes, les tables et le niveau sonore élevé nous introduisent tout de suite dans la quintessence du bistrot parisien et à 17€ la formule déjeuner, je ne demande pas mieux…”

John Talbott (2014) “Although they are trying, the front room man and rest of the staff were great but the new chef needs to shape-up.”

Reviews with Pierre Lecoutre as chef/owner: 

Les Grands Ducs (2014) “Excellente préparation des légumes, plutôt rare dans l’univers bistrotier.”

David Lebovitz (2014) “The meat is seared so it gets a nice crust, rather than some of the ropey-dopey steaks you come across, and the French fries are freshly made from real potatoes and cooked until crisp and brown. The portion is so generous that you can afford to share them with tablemates.”

Patricia Wells (2012) ” … fun and funky… Chef-owner Pierre Lecoutre is a master at the stove, and diners can watch him perform in his tiny, open kitchen, shifting copper pots, stirring and searing, offering up gorgeous, giant entrecôte (beef rib steak), frying up deliciously crisp and golden French fries…”

Le Figaro (2011) “Que du bon… La saison s’exprime aussi à travers une salade de girolles (excellentissime), un colvert rôti, coing et potimarron, un parmentier de faisan et quelques fantaisies tripières.”

David Lebovitz (2007) “… a terrific restaurant in Paris… a neighborhood-type restaurant where people just go for good food but are welcome to linger…”

Meert

This ornate pastry shop has a long legacy in Lille dating back to 1761. Their thin waffle cookies stuffed with a variety of creams have only been available in Paris since 2010, however.

Practical information

Address: 16 rue Elzévir, 75003
Nearest transport: Saint-Paul (1)
Hours: Closed Monday
Telephone: 01 49 96 56 90
Website Facebook

Additional locations

Address: 3 rue Jacques Callot, 75006
Nearest transport: Saint-Germain-des-Prés (4)
Hours: Closed Monday
Telephone: 01 56 81 67 15

Reviews of interest

Lindsey Tramuta (2014) “Known primarily for their small, thin waffles (gauffres) and chocolates, I wandered inside after being seized by the robust galettes displayed in the window. The shop always offers the traditional recipe, which features almond cream (frangipane), but I made a beeline for the chestnut cream & pear variety – rich but not overly sweet; a real marvel.”

Dorie Greenspan (2011) “I don’t know if they were the first to make this style of waffle – the grids are barely etched, the waffle is soft and it’s split in half and filled – but they are certainly the best known.  At Meert, the choice of fillings was vanilla, caramel or chicory, an important ingredient in Lille.”

David Lebovitz (2010) “Quite unique, these dainty, chewy waffles come sandwiched with either vanilla or speculoos cream. The shop is a bit austere, so expect understated elegance rather than opulence, a nice change of pace away from the shoppers crowding the sidewalks a few blocks away.”

MG Road

Practical information

Address: 205 rue Saint Martin, 75003
Nearest transport: Étienne Marcel (4), Rambuteau (11)
Hours:  Closed Sunday and Monday; Open Tuesday-Sunday noon-midnight
Reservations: Book a day or two in advance
Telephone: 01 42 76 04 32
Average price for lunch20-39€
Average price for dinner: 20-39€
Style of cuisine: Indian
Website  Facebook   Book Online

Reviews of interest

Le Fooding (2014) “And to extinguish the fire that the rumpsteak with tandoori spices sets in your mouth, a good monsoon of Nimbu Pani lemonade, or, surprise, biodynamic French wines.”

Simon Says (2014) “C’est exquis, net, et neuf…. Service adorable, salle aimable, terrasse au soleil aux beaux jours. Vraiment bien, j’ai adoré.”

Bob’s Kitchen

A popular place among the Marais fashion set for healthy lunch options ranging from bagels to futomaki to colorful curries. The last time I was there, actor Owen Wilson was sipping a wheatgrass smoothie across the communal table. All natural, organic and vegetarian.  Continue reading Bob’s Kitchen

Nanashi

Practical information

Address: 31 rue du Paradis, 75010
Nearest transport: Poissonière (7)
Hours: Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner; Open Sunday for lunch only
Reservations: Walk-ins Welcome
Telephone: 01 40 22 05 55
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Japanese
Website   Facebook

Additional locations

Address: 57 rue Charlot, 75003
Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8)
Hours: Open every day for lunch and dinner
Telephone: 09 60 00 25 59

Reviews of interest

Journal du Dimanche (2013) “Les produits sont frais, travaillés simplement. Pris par l’ambiance “santé”, on se fait du bien au corps et à l’esprit, en terminant avec un cake matcha (6 euros) pour le corps et un thé pour l’esprit. Ou bien alors l’inverse. Service souriant et sympathique. Le lieu idéal pour un déjeuner de copines entre deux averses.”

Le Figaro (2012) “… un joli mix de cuisine franco-nippone avec soupe, chirashi de saumon, bento ou rouleau de printemps végétarien, mais aussi petites salades légères et délicieuses…”

Chroniques du Plaisir (2011) “La cantine bobobio par excellence, avec ce qu’il faut de jus de fruits et légumes (carotte, orange et gingembre décoiffant), de world food naturelle (salades, légumes croquants, petites pousses, germes, graines et céréales), et de belles plantes aux jambes longilignes qui peu à peu se croisent sous les tables.”

Not Drinking Poison in Paris (2011) “It’s pretty excellent: a trim, calm, winningly designed corridor of a space,  in which one can enjoy fresh, healthful, completely unconventional bento-like meals accompanied by, among other things, a crude but well-intentioned selection of organic and natural wines.”

Le Figaro (2011) “tarifs ‘bobos’, entre 10 et 20 €. Rouleau printemps veggie : bien gavé. Salade patate douce, pois chiche, pavot : amusante, sans plus. Chirachi (bol de riz) saumon : correct…”

Le Figaro (2010) “une modeuse mangeoire où la bobovoracité s’excite la papille en fréquentant les particules alimentaires d’une agitatrice de la popote nippone plutôt habile.”

Pink Flamingo

Practical information

Address: 67 rue Bichat, 75010
Nearest transport: Jacques Bonsergent (5)
Hours: Open Monday-Thursday for dinner only; Open Friday-Sunday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 42 02 31 70
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Pizza
Website   Facebook

Additional locations

Address: 105 rue Vieille du Temple, 75003
Nearest transport: Saint-Sébastien-Froissart (8)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 42 71 28 20

Address: 23 rue d’Aligre, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Closed Monday
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 43 43 47 07

Address: 30 rue Muller, 75018
Nearest transport: Chateau Rouge (4)
Hours: Closed Monday; Open Tuesday & Wednesday for dinner only; Open Thursday-Sunday for lunch & dinner
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 42 23 14 07

Reviews of interest

Le Figaro (2010) “Des spécimens de galette décalés, potaches et, une fois sur deux, plutôt convaincants.”

 

Dessance

Practical information

Address: 74 rue des Archives, 75003
Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8), Rambuteau (11)
Hours: Closed Monday & Tuesday; Open Wednesday-Sunday continuously for lunch & dinner
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 42 77 23 62
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 40-59€
Style of cuisine: Desserts, modern French
Website   Facebook

Reviews of interest

David Lebovitz (2015) “Like most experimental food, not everything is a hit. A starter of mustard leaf sorbet that was paired with mirabelle plums and smoked cheese (shown up above) tasted – well…like a frozen puree of mustard leaves. But a grated carrot sorbet with pea puree and pea shoots was excellent. And I loved the ripe strawberries with parsley ice cream and fruit leather that led the way to the final course.”

The Financial Times (2014) “On a recent visit, the four-course degustation menu began on a savory note – raw tuna paired with tangy orbs of red and white currants, droplets of peach purée, avocado sorbet, and a red onion emulsion that was so good I’d like to suggest they sell it as a condiment.”

Sugared & Spiced (2014) “This second visit to Dessance was overall a pleasant experience. Some dishes were a bit too much for me in terms of flavor combination, but Dessance still remains an interesting address to visit for its unusual creations. For a change of the Paris sweet scene, why not?”

The New York Times (2014) “The menu at Dessance doesn’t run toward the pastries, cakes and tarts that a desserts-only concept might imply, but rather offers a small but intriguing collection of dishes that can be eaten as both desserts and main courses, including, for example, a surprising combination of violet-colored vitelotte potato purée with raw and poached apples, arugula and marjoram granité.

Le Figaro (2014) “Plutôt convaincante à prouver, par un jeu de compositions biseautées, que l’idée du repas en mode sucré ne se réduit pas au final d’un repas.”

Table à Découvert (2014) “Le menu ne se substitue pas à un repas (à moins qu’il y ait des adeptes), mais se déguste comme un moment à part, après un plat salé dégusté ailleurs (même s’il y a 2,3 propositions de salées comme des madeleines au roquefort, une assiette de comté, coing et scones ou un foie gras mi-cuit, butternut, fruit de la passion, brioche).”

Photo courtesy of Dessance’s Facebook page