David Toutain, who brought acclaim to Agapé Substance before jumping ship back in December 2012, returned to the Paris scene with this signature restaurant in 2013. His meticulous and conceptual cooking highlights seasonal produce, with vegetables often playing the starring role. This is by no means a vegetarian restaurant, but Toutain's ability to bring out the beauty in oft-ignored roots reminds us of his former boss Alain Passard.
Practical information
Address: 79 rue Saint-Dominique, 75007
Nearest transport: La Tour-Maubourg (8), Invalides (8, 13, RER C)
Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Thursday & Friday for lunch and dinner; Open Tuesday, Wednesday & Saturday for dinner only
Reservations: Book a few weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 47 05 79 00
Average price for lunch: 60-100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Haute Cuisine
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Reviews of interest
Le Figaro (2016) “Venu de Courchevel, Sylvestre Wahid succède à Piège du côté de chez Thoumieux, manœuvre la berline de brasserie du rez-de-chaussée et ordonne, à l’étage, une gastronomie de force tranquille, sans esbroufe, d’un chic foncier, appliquée au saisonnier, consciencieuse à disposer en menu dédié (chair, mer, végétal) une cuisine renouant avec la générosité et ce vieux mot que l’on croyait usé: la gourmandise.”
Le Monde (2015) “Chef Sylvestre Wahid, doublement étoilé, propose une cuisine pleine d’humilité mais de très haute technicité… Sa cuisine lui ressemble: calme et aiguisée.”
Gault & Millau (2015) “L’enjeu est énorme, mais le jeune chef, très confirmé, qui anima avec brio l’Oustau de Baumanière pendant des années, a les épaules assez larges, à la fois pour essuyer les plâtres et les critiques du début, et pour pose sa propre patte sur une carte à son effigie.”
L’Express (2015) “Oeuf de poule, cèpes au fumet de truffes blanches en chaud-froid avec de la truffe blanche d’Alba finement rappée: Voici un plat signature qui se décline tout au long de l’année avec d’autres matières premières en accompagnement de l’oeuf. Gustativement, on comprend vite qu’on a affaire à une assiette gourmande parfaitement maitrisée au niveau des accords et du tempo. Une expérience que l’on aimerait renouveler lors d’une future déclinaison, juste pour voir si c’est aussi bon.”
Photo via Hôtel Thoumieux’s Facebook page
Practical information
Address: 27 rue Pierre Leroux, 75007
Nearest transport: Vaneau (10)
Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinner
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 47 34 94 14
Average price for lunch: 40-59€
Average price for dinner: 60-100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
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Reviews of interest
Figaroscope (2015) “Homard en chapelure de poutargue, endives à l’orange: le végétal parfait, le crustacé un peu alibi. Volaille de Chalosse, petit chou farci: d’une gourmandise réservée. Moelleux de courge, clémentines marinées: diaphane.”
The New York Times (2014) “A luminous personal vision of French cuisine, particularly focused on the nation’s produce… his own style relies on a kind of lyricism. Flavors include cubes of raw bonito rolled in poutargue crumbs and garnished with endive that has been braised with orange and Gold Rush apple; perfectly sautéed brill with wilted iceberg lettuce, baby leeks and turnips; and a very herby riff on a sauce gribiche. To wit, it’s light, fresh, full of flavor and very pretty on the plate.”
John Talbott (2014) “Another Japanese chef scores big time… a phenomenal find.”
Photo via Nakatani’s Facebook page
Practical information
Address: 18 rue Jean-Nicot, 75007
Nearest transport: La Tour Maubourg (8)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday all day
Reservations: Walk-ins Welcome
Telephone: 01 53 59 96 96
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 20-39€
Style of cuisine: Spanish, small plates
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Additional Locations
Address: 11 rue Clément Marot, 75008
Nearest transport: Alma – Marceau (9)
Hours: Closed Sunday; Open Monday-Saturday all day
Reservations: Walk-ins Welcome
Telephone: 01 47 20 03 13
Address: 64 rue de Seine, 75006
Nearest transport: Mabillon (10)
Hours: Open every day all day
Reservations: Walk-ins Welcome
Telephone: 01 46 33 49 54
Reviews of interest
These reviews are from the rue Clément Marot location:
Le Fooding (2012) “At this small tasting bar where a few tables are squeezed between the walls lined with wine bottles and the meat in the windows, the said leg of great quality is sliced thin in little pieces, tenderly warmed by a central candle, before melting on the palate, served with crushed tomatoes and bread from Kayser or Poujauran. The other crushed dish, the mashed potatoes with bits of chorizo, is excellent, presented in a small heart-shaped plate that gives a somewhat weird romantic twist to the cocktail-dinner between friends…
These reviews are from the rue Jean-Nicot location:
David Lebovitz (2010) “The ham is sublime and goes great with the other Spanish appetizers they serve at this casual restaurant.”
Le Figaro (2009) “… le plus accueillant des points de chute en début de soirée, avec son long comptoir et ses tables hautes, ses jambons extraordinaires pour lesquels nous sommes nombreux à avoir traversé Paris, son pain de chez Poujauran, ses assiettes de chorizo…”
Chocolate & Zucchini (2005) “It is always cause for elation to discover a new source for superior sandwich indulgence…”
Photo by loran via Flickr