Posts tagged restaurant
Our Guide to Paris: Spring Restaurant
Sep 1st
It is impossible to overstate the fervor with which the second coming of Daniel Rose’s Spring has been anticipated; faithful fans and the soon-to-be-converted are all hoping to be saved by a meal at this bouillon for the 21st century. Bonus point: a basement wine bar will open in early September.
Practical information
Address: 6 rue Bailleul, 75001
Nearest transport: Louvre-Rivoli (1)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday for dinner, Wednesday-Saturday for lunch. Closed Sunday & Monday. Saturday lunch throughout the summer will feature lobster rolls instead of the traditional lunch menu.
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 45 96 05 72
Website
Map
Our Guide to Paris: Passage 53
Aug 4th
Outside, it’s the city’s oldest covered passage. Inside, it’s some of this city’s most forward-thinking cuisine. Chef Shinishi Sato and his Japanese team make precise, poetic use of pristine French ingredients (Desnoyer, Thiébault, Bordier…) and have recently earned a Michelin star.
Practical information
Address: 53 passage des Panoramas, 75002
Nearest transport: Grands Boulevards (8,9)
Hours: Closed Sunday, Closed Monday
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 42 33 04 35
Map
Our Guide to Paris: L’Arpège
Jul 29th
Alain Passard spins turnips into gold at this vegecentric (but not vegetarian) three star restaurant.
Practical information
Address: 84 rue de Varenne, 75007
Nearest transport: Varenne (13)
Hours: Closed Sunday, Closed Saturday
Reservations: Book many weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 47 05 09 06
Website
Map
More >
Blogger Buzz: Aux Lyonnais
Jul 26th
Last week, I found myself at a place that people don’t much talk about anymore – Aux Lyonnais. This is Alain Ducasse’s take on the bouchon - a style of restaurant from Lyon specializing in that region’s traditional and very meaty fare. I brought my boyfriend, a real Lyonnais, for dinner last week. We started with an apéro at the nearby Coinstot Vino and then arrived for our 9:00 reservation (booked online).
My first impression: this restaurant is beautiful. With its gleaming zinc bar, tiled floors, and checkered tablecloths, Aux Lyonnais is decorated like the French bistro of my dreams. If I were a tourist, as 80% of the clients appeared to be, I would enter and say “finally… this is the place.”
That first flush faded fast…
> Continue reading at Meg Zimbeck
Blogger Buzz: Smoking with Frenchie
Jul 26th
He had me at hello. No seriously, I speak French like sling blade, so when Greg Marchand the chef at Frenchie in Paris said “Hello” in English, I was smitten. The meal that followed that night was one of the best examples of ingredient love and technique restraint that’s quite frankly hard to find in Paris. We started with the smoked trout, a mesquite smoked filet served over avocado puree with pickles and dill. Our main course was a pleasantly salty roasted fork tender pork over cranberry beans, with favas and baby carrots both sweet and still slightly crunchy. Dessert was a milky panna cotta just barely set and served with red fruit coulis and a topping of fresh raspberries.
I stumbled home that night and while still drunk and happy sent a giddy e-mail to Frenchie saying “you have built it, they will come”. And come they have. In just over a year that Frenchie has been open, they have garnered the praise of every blogger and publication in Paris, raves from the New York Times, picked up a Michelin bib and Greg himself took home the Le Fooding chef of the year honors. Sadly, all this acclaim has also made our once a week spot into once a month treat, if we can score a reservation.
> Continue reading at Hidden Kitchen
Blogger Buzz: Café des Musées
Jul 26th
Arles, Ardèche, Lorraine, Ile de Ré, ça tourne en ce moment, virage à gauche, virage à droite, Ouest, Sud, Est, je vous avoue, je suis sur les rotules, même si émerveillée des paysages rencontrés et des produits goûtés. De retour à Paris, à la recherche d’un bon bistrot à vivre entre copains. Tiens, et si je retournais au Café des Musées dont la cuisine et la prestation m’avaient bien plu il y a un an (mais pas de photo ce jour là). Situé à mi chemin entre deux monuments, la place des Vosges et le musée Picasso, d’ailleurs, au moment où j’arrive, des touristes chinois me demandent la direction du musée Picasso (j’ai la tête à qui on demande toujours son chemin), le Café des Musées forme un angle, entre la rue de Turenne et la rue du Parc Royal. L’été, les tables donnent presque sur la rue grâce aux portes-fenêtres toutes ouvertes et l’on bénéficie des passages rapprochés des bus qui prennent le tournant, ainsi que du sillage laissé par les camions-poubelles… A part ça, le bistrot vit à 100%, du matin (petit-déjeuner) au dîner, 7 jours sur 7, dans son décor rétro et ses tables rapprochées.
> Continue reading at Table à Découvert
Blogger Buzz: La Tour d’Argent in the 5th – stratospheric indeed
Jul 24th
5.5 La Tour d’Argent, 15, quai de la Tournelle in the 5th, 01.40.46.71.11, closed Sundays and Mondays, was apparently somewhat adrift after the death of Claude Terail (son of the original André Terrail) in May 2006 but has undergone a rebirth under his son André Terrail, especially since April 2010 when the 39 yo Laurent Delarbre took over in the kitchen. It’s interesting that it’s almostde rigeurnow that the children of famous Parisian food providers (Terail, Poilane, etc.) go to university in the US: Andre at Babson, Class of 2002.
I was interested in going again not only because Emmanuel Rubin awarded it 3 hearts, albeit calling the 200 E a la carte meal stratospherically priced (although there’s a 65 E “menu” at lunch) but because my eating companion (my former co-host at eG) who is trying out classic “old” places is, through complicated romantic/marital-type connections, connected to the chef. He was not here today which permits me more candor than if I had to tiptoe around some issues.
> Continue reading at John Talbott’s Paris
Blogger Buzz: Mystery Cuisine and Rossi & Co.
Jul 23rd
MYSTERY CUISINE, Good Food with an Amusing Side of Theater, B+; ROSSI & CO, A Nice Neapolitan, B
Cards on the table, I’ve always been pretty dubious about molecular cooking, often finding that I want a real chef in the kitchen instead of a gastronomic Salvador Dali. Instead, I whole-heartedly subscribe to the infallible dictum of Auguste Escoffier who said “Cooking becomes genius when things taste of what they are.” So science in the kitchen doesn’t really work for me.
On the other hand, I’m not adverse to food as entertainment, and so it was with great curiosity that I went to dinner the other night at the teasingly named Mystery Cuisine, a tiny restaurant next to the Palais Royal. Since my pal David and I had been enjoying the terrace at the nearby Cafe de Nemours, one of my favorites, I was a little apprehensive about stepping into a heat box when we arrived at the front door. Instead, we were greeted by a gust of nicely chilled air and amiable chef-owner Edouard Desrousseaux de Vandières and led to a table for two in a partially curtained niche of this low-lit and decidedly mysterious dining room.
> Continue reading at Hungry for Paris
Blogger Buzz: La Villa Victoria in the 9th – a Velly, Velly big improvement
Jul 23rd
6.0 La Villa Victoria, 52, Rue Lamartine in the 9th (Metro: ND des Lorette), 0148.78.60.05, closed Saturdays and Sundays in July and August, was the site where the resto Velly was situated and which I called Velly Velly bad on reviewing it a few years ago; immediately regretting this borderline racist betisse. In any case, I walked by it last summer and it was rebranded as La Villa Victoria, and since this is my oldest grand-daughter’s name, I took a photo and posted it on Facebook, embarassing her enormously I suspect, but never thinking twice about going back.
Just a month ago, though, a colleague/competitor/friend reviewed it for “Paris Update” and it sounded terrific; so I said to myself – “let’s try it again.”
> Continue reading at John Talbott’s Paris
Blogger Buzz: Fabrique 4
Jul 19th
Pourquoi : Référencé sur lesrestos.com, Fabrique 4 a bien plu à Alain Fusion. Emmanuel Rubin lui décerna deux cœurs en décembre 2008. Sur Grazia, on trouve des photots du mobilier! Un avis plutôt bon sur l’Internaute. Un petit moment que nous voulions voir ce qu’il en est.
Qui : initialement associé dans l’affaire, Wim Van Gorp, chef « exécutif » du Market, semble s’être retiré pour laisser le champ libre à Jade Oosterlynck en salle et Thibault Van Aerde en cuisine. Le fait maison et minute, c’est très bien, mais à midi, ça peut déraper et trainer un peu.
Quoi : du vin, charcuteries italiennes et ibériques, sardines… en apéro, une cuisine entre fusion et tradi, à base de bons produits : sashimi de boeuf, roquette et parmesan (10€ ou 17€), parmentier de queue de boeuf au céleri(10€), huitres à la flamande (10€), bouillon citronelle, wontons de gambas (15€), brandade de cabillaud, asperges vertes, jus de crustacés (15€) ou encore joue de veau, galette de pomme de terre et radis collection (17€), tartare de boeuf, salade de pomme de terre, œufs de hareng (17€), rognons de veau, gratin de pomme de terre et de pomme (17€).
> Continue reading at Chrisoscope
Blogger Buzz: L’Alcove in the 14th – bit of mechoui heaven
Jul 19th
5.3 l’Alcove, 46, rue Didot in the 14th (Metro: Pernety), 01.45.45.92.02, closed Sundays has a history with me. Back in June I saw Yves Nespoulous’s Le Fooding review of it and pasted a sticky on it saying “See what Rubin says, it sounds great.” What sounded great were the five wood-fire-grilled beef cuts, sweetbreads, milk-fed lamb, Bresse chicken, etc., produced by an ex-butcher for 13-20 E each and a lunch menu for 12.90 E. And indeed, soon after, E.R. didn’t disappoint me, giving it two hearts and calling the menu (carte) “astonishing.”
The host was standing in the doorway when I appeared and greeted me warmly, seating me at a table next to a cabinet full of “oriental” pastries.
> Continue reading at John Talbott’s Paris
Blogger Buzz: Le Pavillon du Lac in the 19th
Jul 18th
A perfect meal, company, day and venue.
6.0 Le Pavillon du Lac, Parc des Buttes Chaumont (west of the Place Armand Carrel) in the 19th, 01.42.00.07.21, closed Mondays is a resto that I wanted to eat at especially because the Messrs. Rubin and Simon, Figaroscope’s crack food journalists, disagreed 180° and I love that sort of situation – who was right? Rubin who gave it a busted heart for its pathetic welcome, gross mistakes and banal food or Simon who said “Faut-il y aller? Oui.”
I went on a spectacularly beautiful, sunny and just warm enough (73° F) day, in the spectacularly beautiful Buttes-Chaumont with the spectacularly beautiful editor of the hottest new Paris food website and we had a spectacularly beautiful meal. Exaggerate I spectacularly too much?
>Continue reading at John Talbott’s Paris