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Les Enfants du Marché

Les Enfants du Marché, a modern & creative restaurant located within the open-air Marché des Enfants Rouges market in the upper Marais, is a dining counter known for natural wine and avant-garde cuisine. While the seating on bar stools in the bustling market might suggest a more lowbrow offering, the surprising combinations on Japanese chef Masahide Ikuta's unforgettable plates evoke a far more fine dining affair (an evocation reflected in the highbrow prices). It is one of our favorite Paris restaurants.

Dessance

We’ve visited and will be adding our review soon. In the meantime, you can scroll to see our photos and what others have said about Dessance.

Practical information

Address: 74 rue des Archives, 75003
Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8), Rambuteau (11)
Hours: Closed Monday & Tuesday; Open Wednesday-Sunday continuously for lunch & dinner
Telephone: +33 1 42 77 23 62
Website   Facebook    Instagram

Dessance in pictures

Photos by Meg Zimbeck © Paris by Mouth

What people are saying about Dessance

David Lebovitz (2015) “Like most experimental food, not everything is a hit. A starter of mustard leaf sorbet that was paired with mirabelle plums and smoked cheese (shown up above) tasted – well…like a frozen puree of mustard leaves. But a grated carrot sorbet with pea puree and pea shoots was excellent. And I loved the ripe strawberries with parsley ice cream and fruit leather that led the way to the final course.”

The Financial Times (2014) “On a recent visit, the four-course degustation menu began on a savory note – raw tuna paired with tangy orbs of red and white currants, droplets of peach purée, avocado sorbet, and a red onion emulsion that was so good I’d like to suggest they sell it as a condiment.”

Sugared & Spiced (2014) “This second visit to Dessance was overall a pleasant experience. Some dishes were a bit too much for me in terms of flavor combination, but Dessance still remains an interesting address to visit for its unusual creations. For a change of the Paris sweet scene, why not?”

The New York Times (2014) “The menu at Dessance doesn’t run toward the pastries, cakes and tarts that a desserts-only concept might imply, but rather offers a small but intriguing collection of dishes that can be eaten as both desserts and main courses, including, for example, a surprising combination of violet-colored vitelotte potato purée with raw and poached apples, arugula and marjoram granité.”

Le Figaro (2014) “Plutôt convaincante à prouver, par un jeu de compositions biseautées, que l’idée du repas en mode sucré ne se réduit pas au final d’un repas.”

Table à Découvert (2014) “Le menu ne se substitue pas à un repas (à moins qu’il y ait des adeptes), mais se déguste comme un moment à part, après un plat salé dégusté ailleurs (même s’il y a 2,3 propositions de salées comme des madeleines au roquefort, une assiette de comté, coing et scones ou un foie gras mi-cuit, butternut, fruit de la passion, brioche).”

Elmer

Address: 30 rue Notre-Dame de Nazareth, 75003
Hours: Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch & dinner. Open Saturday for dinner only. Closed Sunday & Monday.
Telephone: +33 1 43 56 22 95
Website / Facebook / Instagram

Our Review

We’ve visited and will be posting our review soon. In the meantime, you can scroll to see photos and what others have said about Elmer. 

Elmer in Pictures


In Other Words

John Talbott (2016) “They were among the best ribs I’ve ever had anywhere – moist on the inside, crispy on the outside, tasting of wood and Southern sauce.”

Mmmozza

Address: 57, rue de Bretagne, 75003
Hours: Open Tuesday-Thursday 10am-3pm, 4-8pm. Open Friday & Saturday 10am-8pm. Open Sunday 10am-2:30pm. Open Monday 10am-3pm, 5-8pm.
Telephone: +33 1 42 71 82 98
Facebook

Mmmozza has one of the bbbest selections of mozzarella that you’ll find in the city, ranging from tiny bocconcini, to a baseball-sized burrata stuffed with black truffles, to an enormous braided rope of bufala mozzarella, hacked off by the slice. The skinny sliver of an Italian specialty shop has lines out the door at lunch for its messy, affordable sandwiches featuring fresh mozzarella, cured meats and vegetables, and arugula. When the weather is nice, there’s outdoor seating or you can chow down in the Square du Temple park directly opposite. A variety of imported prosciuttos and salamis, stuffed pastas, oils and vinegars, and a small but quality range of Italian wines are also available for purchase.

Trois Fois Plus de Piment

Practical information

Address: 184 rue St Martin, 75003
Nearest transport: Rambuteau (11)
Hours: Closed Monday; Open Tuesday-Sunday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Walk-Ins Welcome
Telephone: 06 52 66 75 31
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Chinese, Szechuan
Facebook   Instagram

Reviews of interest

Time Out (2016) “On choisit ensuite son plat de pâtes (avec ou sans soupe) comme les Dan Dan (porc haché, cacahuètes, ciboulette) en indiquant le degré de piment que l’on souhaite sur une échelle de 1 à 5.  La serveuse, sans doute habituée aux Parisiens jackass, nous conseille d’opter pour un niveau 2 : et franchement c’est déjà assez hardcore. Outre le piment, le bouillon est très parfumé, les nouilles fraîches et le porc délicieux.”

Le Fooding (2015) “Dedicated to Sichuan noodles and ravioli (100% homemade), the miniature menu written out by hand is pretty similar to the one at the mother house: pork dumplings served with chaozhou (a bitter and spicy sauce) or in a soup; really good noodles with ground pork in a sauce that’s been slow-cooked with grilled chilies; vermicelle noodles in vinegar.”

Thrillist (2015) “The second outpost of beloved Deux Fois Plus de Piment, this indo-chinese restaurant will provide the spice you so rarely find (but so desperately need.)”

Paris Bouge (2015) “Les moins aventureux opteront pour le niveau 1, avec des raviolis sichuanais à la pâte maison fondante et élastique comme il faut : le piment titille gentiment. Les nouilles Dan Dan relèvent un peu le jeu : des nouilles à la belle mâche, un juteux porc épicé, des cacahuètes qui croquent et une touche acidulé avec le vinaigre de riz. Niveau deux surpassé. Les plus audacieux se risqueront au niveau 5: défi lancé.”

Maison Plisson

Address: 93, boulevard Beaumarchais, 75003
Hours: Open Monday 9:30am-9pm. Open Tuesday-Saturday 8:30am-9pm. Open Sunday 9am-8pm.
Telephone: +33 1 71 18 19 09
Website / Facebook / Instagram

This sprawling 500m² space on the edge of the trendy Northern Marais does double duty. On one side, it’s an upscale market, boasting fresh fruits and vegetables, high quality cheeses, charcuterie, and deli items, as well as a bakery, an excellent selection of wines and a range of luxury local and imported grocery items. On the other, it’s a café, serving a small range of dishes made from ingredients sold next door. In a neighborhood surprisingly devoid of good grocery purveyors, the store is a revelation: The boulangerie turns out the best croissants for several blocks, the charcuterie is excellent and this is the go-to spot for top-notch pickles or proper English tea. With the Bastille market just around the corner customers might balk at the price of produce here, but if only kale will do, this is the store for you. In the café, the concise lunch menu offers very good – if overpriced – simple French classics. At a lower price point, and for smaller appetites, there’s also a nice selection of quiches, tartines and sandwiches.

SOMA

Practical information

Address: 13 rue de Saintonge, 75003
Nearest transport: Saint-Sébastien-Froissart (8), Temple (3)
Hours: Closed Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner; Open Sunday for lunch only
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 09 81 82 53 51
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 20-39€
Style of cuisine: Japanese
Facebook

Reviews of interest

Time Out (2015) “Soma réussit avec brio à faire le lien entre tradition bistronomique et cuisine japonaise de haut vol… Un voyage enthousiasmant et nettement plus abordable (entre 40 et 50 euros par tête de pipe et vous serez pleinement rassasiés) qu’un aller-retour à Paris-Tokyo.”

L’Express (2014) “Une furieuse cantine nippo-fusion à prix calmes! Sou vous promène du Japon à l’Asie du Sud-Est au fil d’un menu “omakase” (selon l’humeur du chef) qui varie suivant votre budget et votre appétit. ”

Le Fooding (2014) “Sourasack Phongphet, chef du regretté Ploum (primé par le Guide Fooding 2005), s’est installé dans un bistrot japonais tout neuf et tout stylé… Derrière son comptoir, chapeau de paille sur la tête et chemisette sur le dos, le gars fait le show, catapultant de fraîches bombinettes: aubergines au gingembre à l’arrière-goût fumé, saupoudrées de copeaux de bonite séchée ; exquis coquillages (palourdes, clams et petits couteaux) au saké… Et, pour les amateurs, des crevettes de Madagascar poêlées vivantes qui bougent encore dans l’assiette!”

A Food Tale (2014) “Au milieu de la grande pièce, Sourasack sert des petites portions précises (Excellents Makis au thon épicé), bien troussées (Salade de Poulpe infusée au thé vert) et surtout, bien bonnes (Surprenante et excellente cervelle d’agneau en tempura)… Belle sélection de sakés avec notes de dégustation pour vous guider si vous n’y connaissez rien.”

Paris Bouge (2014) “Dans nos assiettes, des recettes du terroir japonais où se mêlent des inspirations françaises, comme le tartare de chinchard à la feuille de shisho, une salade de poulpe infusé au thé vert, un bœuf mi-cuit sauce ponzu, du black angus poêlé sauce teriyaki, pour ne citer qu’eux. Le dessert n’est pas en reste avec une version du pain perdu franco-japonaise et sa glace au thé. Côté bouteilles, un large choix de vins naturels est proposé et on retrouve le saké bien sûr.”

Photo courtesy of SOMA’s Facebook page

Café Pinson

Practical information

Address: 6 rue du Forez, 75003
Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8)
Hours: Open Monday-Saturday for breakfast, lunch & dinner and Sunday for brunch
Reservations: Walk-ins welcome, but book a day or two in advance for brunch
Telephone: 09 83 82 53 53
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Vegetarian & vegan, soups/salads/sandwiches, healthy eating
Website   Facebook

Additional Locations 

Address: 58 rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, 75010
Nearest transport: Poissonnière (7), Cadet (7)
Hours: Open Monday-Saturday for breakfast & lunch and Sunday for brunch
Telephone: 01 45 23 59 42

Address: at Le 66, 66 Avenue des Champs-Elysées, 75008
Nearest transport: Saint-Philippe-du-Roule (9)
Hours: Open every day for lunch

Reviews of interest

Le Figaro (2014) “Risotto champignons, potimarron, échalotes confites et kale: plus un riz cuisiné qu’un risotto mais pas désagréable. Galette de pomme de terre, épinards, pesto de kale: sans grande finesse. Cake citron-pavot: carré.”

Lost in Cheeseland (2013) “American chef Cameil Kaundart swaps refined sugar for agave syrup or non-refined sugar to sweeten up desserts and uses almond or hazelnut milk for all coffee and spiced tea beverages. A rainbow of fresh savory dishes changes regularly and you can expect a hearty range of salty-sweet treats for weekend brunch (that is, if you were wise enough to reserve a spot).”

Le Figaro (2013) “Archétype sans  faux pli de la dînette «Marais»  où, sous le motif d’un décor  rétro-minimaliste, le régime naturopathe (du bio, du veggie,  du sans gluten) se glamourise dans l’instant de recettes  pleines de jugeote.”

Unlock Paris (2013) “The daytime cafe has a seasonal, daily-changing menu of mostly vegan dishes, made without dairy and without gluten, such as kale, lentil and tofu salad, or beetroot and alfalfa tart, available in a fixed menu including a starter, main course and dessert for €17. Vitamin-packed fresh juices are made to order and cafe from Coutume is also on the menu for those needing even more of a boost.”

Photo via Café Pinson’s Facebook

L’Atelier Vivanda

Practical information

Address: 18 rue Lauriston, 75016
Nearest transport: Charles de Gaulle-Etoile (1, 2, 6)
Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday; Open Monday-Friday for lunch & dinner
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 40 67 10 00
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 20-39€
Style of cuisine: Classic French, steak joint
Website   Facebook

Additional Locations

Address: 20 rue du Cherche Midi, 75006
Nearest transport: Sèvres-Babylone (10, 12), Saint Sulpice (4)
Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinner
Telephone: 01 45 44 50 44

Address: 82 rue des Archives, 75003
Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8)
Hours: Closed Monday & Tuesday; Open Wednesday-Sunday for lunch & dinner
Telephone: 01 42 71 48 07

Reviews of interest

Table à Découvert (2015) “J’ai choisi la hampe de boeuf de race black angus, j’adore ça la hampe. Je ne vous dis pas à quel point elle est spécifiquement savoureuse ici. De la mâche, le juste équilibre de filandreux, très goûteuse et parfaitement cuite entre la croûte extérieure et le saignant à l’intérieur… Le morceau «persillé» également proposé à la carte est plus persillé et également très, très bon. Je crois que je peux y retourner dans pas très longtemps pour lui.”

Le Figaro (2014) ” Parfaitement bien vu, le menu à 35€ (entrée-plat-dessert) propose six choix de viande dont un persillé Black Angus, un quasi de veau ou une côte de porc ibérique. Cuites selon nos vœux, d’une belle tendreté, elles sont toutes accompagnées d’une déclinaison en cinq variantes de pommes de terre: gratin dauphinois (très réussi), pommes darphin, purée, etc.”

Le Figaro (2014) “Du bon chic, bonne chair dans un quartier taillé pour.”

Les Grands Ducs (2013) “Tout ici, dans ce micro-resto (24 couverts pris d’assaut) a été pensé dans cette optique carnée : on y mange sur les billots de boucher, sous le regard de quelques bovins (photographiés, aux murs, je vous rassure) et la charmante serveuse qui s’occupe de vous porte un tablier de cuir des fort des Halles. La cuisine est ouverte, comme partout désormais, et y pendent quelques belles pièces de boeuf et de volaille.”

Philippe Toinard (2012) “Une fois le destin de la pomme de terre choisi, il ne vous reste plus qu’à lui adjoindre un compagnon, un ris de veau, un suprême de volaille de Challans, un magret de canard, de la pluma Ibérique ou du coeur d’entrecôte. Bien snacké, le ris de veau a de quoi plaire mais force est de constater que le coeur d’entrecôte est idéalement persillé et extrêmement fondant en bouche.”

John Talbott (2012) “The waitfolk have leather butchers’ aprons and they bring over some Iberic ham right off the bat so you know they mean serious meat business. We had sticker shock at the nice prices of the wines – ours was a terrific Elian Da Rosa Cotes du Marmadais. We each had potatoes a different way (a la Vivanda – halved with high heat and duck fat, Dauphinois, sauteed, Dauphine) bent on testing them head to head, but wouldn’t you know they were all good.”

Photo via L’Atelier Vivanda’s Facebook page

Pink Flamingo

Practical information

Address: 67 rue Bichat, 75010
Nearest transport: Jacques Bonsergent (5)
Hours: Open Monday-Thursday for dinner only; Open Friday-Sunday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 42 02 31 70
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Pizza
Website   Facebook

Additional locations

Address: 105 rue Vieille du Temple, 75003
Nearest transport: Saint-Sébastien-Froissart (8)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 42 71 28 20

Address: 23 rue d’Aligre, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Closed Monday
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 43 43 47 07

Address: 30 rue Muller, 75018
Nearest transport: Chateau Rouge (4)
Hours: Closed Monday; Open Tuesday & Wednesday for dinner only; Open Thursday-Sunday for lunch & dinner
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 42 23 14 07

Reviews of interest

Le Figaro (2010) “Des spécimens de galette décalés, potaches et, une fois sur deux, plutôt convaincants.”

 

Grazie

Practical information

Address: 91 boulevard Beaumarchais, 75003
Nearest transport: Saint-Sébastien-Froissart (8) or Chemin Vert (8)
Hours: Open every day for lunch & dinner
Reservations: Book a day or two in advance
Telephone: 01 42 78 11 96
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 20-39€
Style of cuisine: Italian, pizza, vegetarian options
Website

Reviews of interest

Le Fooding (2015) “On vient autant chez Grazie pour les cocktails de folie, secoués derrière le massif comptoir par Ricardo et Alejandra (Harigatorade, No Fear No Pear… 12€) que pour humer l’air du temps et l’odeur des pizzas (aux farines et produits 100% italiens) sortant du four à bois. Nos préférées: la Bawini (spianata calabra, saucisson piquant), et l’Aurora (tomate, mozza, basilic, tout simplement).”

World’s Best Bars (2012) “From the inventive cocktail list, the Vie en Rose is a gin and tonic with a Mediterranean twist and the sake and wasabi Bloody Mary is guaranteed to give you a kick, or try the super smooth basil and honey martini. They also do a mean Breakfast Martini as well as a range of well-executed classic drinks.”

52 Martinis (2011) “These pizzas are the perfect accompaniment to the cocktails. When a drinks menu is so tempting, upscale carby goodness is the ideal way to soak up any overindulgence. And these pizzas aren’t just belly-fillers, they’ll draw as much clientele on their own as the cocktails.”

Le Figaro (2011) “Le Bellini avait des fourmis dans les jambes et ne décollait pas vraiment, il manquait de pulpe et de bulles. De fraîcheur quoi, alors que dans le verre voisin une délicieuse bombinette fit des ravages: basilic, miel et martini: boum. Parfait pour accélérer des soirées.”

Les Enfants Rouges

Practical information

Address: 9 rue de Beauce, 75003
Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8)
Hours: Closed Tuesday and Wednesday; Open Thursday-Monday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Book a few weeks in advance
Telephone: 01 48 87 80 61
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 20-39€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Website   Facebook

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2015) “Amazing, astonishing… loved the veal brains with beans and pimento strips.  This guy knows his offal!”

Not Drinking Poison in Paris (2014) “Les Enfants Rouges under Shinozuka points no new directions in Paris dining, and at first glance manages to underwhelm despite terrific cuisine and serviceable hospitality. But Shinozuka, evidently no fool, has made all criticism moot by opening on Sundays and Mondays, which instantly renders Les Enfants Rouges one of the most useful addresses in Paris, let alone the quality-starved Marais.”

David Lebovitz (2014) “The terrines and cured sausages here are some of the best you’ll have in Paris… the excellent baba au rhum with a generous drizzle of Saint James and a fleurette of whipped cream was a nice send off from this charming little bistro.”

Simon Says (2013) “Il faudra se faire à cette bistronomie japonisante qui hante la place parisienne. Normal, ils sont trop forts…celui ci, en pleine limpidité.”

Table à Découvert (2013) “L’onglet de bœuf enrobé de quelques échalotes au vinaigre. Je trouve que la viande se mastique un peu trop au début (faut un bon couteau quoi, ce que j’ai et de bonnes dents aussi) et puis non, c’est la caractéristique de l’onglet et c’est bon.”

Alexander Lobrano (2013) “‘It was a good meal,’ I replied, ‘But it lacked any distinctive signature.’ Or in other words, it was like so many other ‘bistronomique’ meals I’ve had in Paris during the last twenty years, but I don’t fault chef Shinozuka for this. Instead, I think he’s a talented chef and a very diligent student of the idiom in which he was trained.”

Figaroscope (2013) “Mousseline de lentilles, crème au lard: bel exercice de légèreté. Saumon mariné aux agrumes, queue de bœuf mijotée et céleri: délicatesse canaille. Palombe rôtie aux girolles: un modèle du genre!”

John Talbott (2013) “My friend, who works in the industry and knows his stuff ordered something I never would – smoked salmon – I was sure it would come with some creamy stuff and salad but no, it came on a bed of shredded beef in brown sauce – outstanding idea and execution.  And I had 3 mini-quenelles of cod brandade, which with its fluffy sauce, I polished off with pleasure.”

Adrian Moore (2013) “All was comforting, technically perfect (one exception, the cod was a bit salty), friendly and affordable, and served (slowly) with a smile. Book now before it becomes the new French/Nippon bistro flavor of the month.”

Photo courtesy of Alexander Lobrano

Le Mary Celeste

Le Mary Celeste is a venture from the people behind Candelaria and Glass. Accordingly, there’s a solid cocktail program and two Brooklyn beers on tap. Another creative and beautiful (now nautical) interior from David Rager, Cheri Messerli and Gilles Tombeur. These get a lot of attention, as do the rotating cast of mostly wild oysters sold seasonally by the piece for 2-5€. 

La Briciola

Practical information

Address: 64 rue Charlot, 75003
Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8)
Hours: Closed Sunday; Open Monday-Saturday for lunch & dinner
Reservations: Walk-ins Welcome
Telephone: 01 42 77 34 10
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Italian & pizza, vegetarian options
Facebook

Reviews of interest

Le Figaro (2008) “… des petits vins biens sentis et des pizzas en série, craquantes, habillées de frais, relevant le niveau du genre.”

David Lebovitz (2008) “The Napoletana was fine, although would’ve been better with top-quality olives; my pizza topped with sausage was the winner of the two. With a chilled carafe of rosato, we were happy…”

Photo via La Briciola’s Facebook page

Candelaria

With its bright, bare-bones kitchen, crowded counter, communal table, and addictive salsas — all mercifully un-Frenchified — this upper Marais spot has officially changed the game, and people are lining up for tacos and agua fresca. Go through the unmarked door next to the stove and you’ll find a serious bar, staffed by Experimental Cocktail Club grads.

Chez Omar

This is no longer included among the favorite 350 addresses that make up Our Guide to Paris Restaurants. We’ve maintained this page so that you can refer to the practical information and other reviews of interest. Feel free to share your own opinion in the comments.

Practical information

Address: 47 rue de Bretagne, 75003
Nearest transport: Arts et Metiers (3, 11)
Hours: Closed Sunday lunch
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 42 72 36 26
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: North African
Special attributes: open Sunday, open Monday, vegetarian options

Reviews of interest

David Lebovitz (2008) “Terrific couscous and the best roast lamb in town…”