David Toutain

David Toutain, who brought acclaim to Agapé Substance before jumping ship back in December 2012, returned to the Paris scene with this signature restaurant in 2013. His meticulous and conceptual cooking highlights seasonal produce, with vegetables often playing the starring role. This is by no means a vegetarian restaurant, but Toutain's ability to bring out the beauty in oft-ignored roots reminds us of his former boss Alain Passard.

Les Climats

A destination restaurant for lovers of Burgundy wines, with an airy terrasse that’s available only at lunchtime. The dining room at night is heavy with leopard print and ostrich feather and can feel gaudy or groovy depending on how much Volnay one has consumed. The expensive cuisine is only fine, and it’s not at all the focus. People come here to spend on impressive bottles and because they’re unaccustomed to leaving the 7ème. It remains a good option at lunch when one can sit outside before or after a visit to the nearby Musée d’Orsay. 

Bistrot Belhara

A recent visit didn’t live up to the hype in which Thierry Dufroux’s Basque-inflected bistrot was declared “one of the revelations of 2013.” With the exception of a vanilla millefeuille with fresh strawberries, every dish was fine but forgettable. The wine list was uninspired and service was brisk and joyless. Three years ago, when most of this restaurant’s reviews were written, Belhara may have stood out as more exciting. It may have actually been more exciting back then. But today, when Paris is experiencing a renaissance of old-fashioned cuisine bourgeoise, Belhara doesn’t quite make it to Our Top 50 Paris Restaurants. Its saving grace: three courses for 38€ is still a great value for dinner in the 7ème near the Eiffel Tower. 

Restaurant Sylvestre

Practical information

Address: 79 rue Saint-Dominique, 75007
Nearest transport: La Tour-Maubourg (8), Invalides (8, 13, RER C)
Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Thursday & Friday for lunch and dinner; Open Tuesday, Wednesday & Saturday for dinner only
Reservations: Book a few weeks in advance
Telephone01 47 05 79 00
Average price for lunch: 60-100€
Average price for dinner: More than 100€
Style of cuisine: Haute Cuisine
Website   Facebook

Reviews of interest

Le Figaro (2016) “Venu de Courchevel, Sylvestre Wahid succède à Piège du côté de chez Thoumieux, manœuvre la berline de brasserie du rez-de-chaussée et ordonne, à l’étage, une gastronomie de force tranquille, sans esbroufe, d’un chic foncier, appliquée au saisonnier, consciencieuse à disposer en menu dédié (chair, mer, végétal) une cuisine renouant avec la générosité et ce vieux mot que l’on croyait usé: la gourmandise.”

Le Monde (2015) “Chef  Sylvestre Wahid, doublement étoilé, propose une cuisine pleine d’humilité mais de très haute technicité… Sa cuisine lui ressemble: calme et aiguisée.”

Gault & Millau (2015) “L’enjeu est énorme, mais le jeune chef, très confirmé, qui anima avec brio l’Oustau de Baumanière pendant des années, a les épaules assez larges, à la fois pour essuyer les plâtres et les critiques du début, et pour pose sa propre patte sur une carte à son effigie.”

L’Express (2015) “Oeuf de poule, cèpes au fumet de truffes blanches en chaud-froid avec de la truffe blanche d’Alba finement rappée: Voici un plat signature qui se décline tout au long de l’année avec d’autres matières premières en accompagnement de l’oeuf. Gustativement, on comprend vite qu’on a affaire à une assiette gourmande parfaitement maitrisée au niveau des accords et du tempo. Une expérience que l’on aimerait renouveler lors d’une future déclinaison, juste pour voir si c’est aussi bon.”

Photo via Hôtel Thoumieux’s Facebook page


Practical information

Address: 27 rue Pierre Leroux, 75007
Nearest transport: Vaneau (10)
Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinner
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 47 34 94 14
Average price for lunch: 40-59€
Average price for dinner: 60-100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Website   Facebook   Book Online

Reviews of interest

Figaroscope (2015) “Homard en chapelure de poutargue, endives à l’orange: le végétal parfait, le crustacé un peu alibi. Volaille de Chalosse, petit chou farci: d’une gourmandise réservée. Moelleux de courge, clémentines marinées: diaphane.”

The New York Times (2014) “A luminous personal vision of French cuisine, particularly focused on the nation’s produce… his own style relies on a kind of lyricism. Flavors include cubes of raw bonito rolled in poutargue crumbs and garnished with endive that has been braised with orange and Gold Rush apple; perfectly sautéed brill with wilted iceberg lettuce, baby leeks and turnips; and a very herby riff on a sauce gribiche. To wit, it’s light, fresh, full of flavor and very pretty on the plate.”

John Talbott (2014) “Another Japanese chef scores big time… a phenomenal find.”

Photo via Nakatani’s Facebook page


Practical information

Address: 18 rue Jean-Nicot, 75007
Nearest transport: La Tour Maubourg (8)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday all day
Reservations: Walk-ins Welcome
Telephone: 01 53 59 96 96
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 20-39€
Style of cuisine: Spanish, small plates
Website   Facebook

Additional Locations

Address: 11 rue Clément Marot, 75008
Nearest transport: Alma – Marceau (9)
Hours: Closed Sunday; Open Monday-Saturday all day
Reservations: Walk-ins Welcome
Telephone: 01 47 20 03 13

Address: 64 rue de Seine, 75006
Nearest transport: Mabillon (10)
Hours: Open every day all day
Reservations: Walk-ins Welcome
Telephone01 46 33 49 54

Reviews of interest

These reviews are from the rue Clément Marot location:

Le Fooding (2012) “At this small tasting bar where a few tables are squeezed between the walls lined with wine bottles and the meat in the windows, the said leg of great quality is sliced thin in little pieces, tenderly warmed by a central candle, before melting on the palate, served with crushed tomatoes and bread from Kayser or Poujauran. The other crushed dish, the mashed potatoes with bits of chorizo, is excellent, presented in a small heart-shaped plate that gives a somewhat weird romantic twist to the cocktail-dinner between friends…

These reviews are from the rue Jean-Nicot location:

David Lebovitz (2010) “The ham is sublime and goes great with the other Spanish appetizers they serve at this casual restaurant.”

Le Figaro (2009) “… le plus accueillant des points de chute en début de soirée, avec son long comptoir et ses tables hautes, ses jambons extraordinaires pour lesquels nous sommes nombreux à avoir traversé Paris, son pain de chez Poujauran, ses assiettes de chorizo…”

Chocolate & Zucchini (2005) “It is always cause for elation to discover a new source for superior sandwich indulgence…”

Photo by loran via Flickr