Disregard what is written on the window of Cheval d’Or’s elegantly-preserved red façade, for what restaurateur Florent Ciccoli (of Jones and Café du Coin, among other endeavors) and chef Taku Sekine (of Dersou) have created on a quiet side street near the Parc des Buttes Chaumont is not a Chinese restaurant. Cheval d’Or is, rather, a tasteful and welcoming luxury small-plates restaurant offering a delicate synthesis of pan-Asian and Parisian cuisines, more middle ground than Middle Kingdom.
Le Rigmarole opened in October 2017 and delighted me more than any other restaurant that year. A recent return visit confirmed my feeling that Le Rigmarole is honest, inexpensive and delicious. It's casual and a bit chaotic, and it deserves to be packed every night.
Address: 14 rue Boutebrie, 75005
Nearest transport: Cluny – La Sorbonne (10), Saint-Michel (RER B&C)
Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday 6.30pm-2am
Reservations: Walk-Ins Welcome
Telephone: 01 43 25 24 24
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Wine bar, small plates
Reviews of interest
The Guardian (2010) “There’s an old-fashioned zinc bar, and an ancient vaulted cellar transformed into a dining room…The cuisine is a mix between exotic fusion – imagine whelks with wasabi mayonnaise – and traditional rural food…”
Le Figaro (2008) “…cinquantaine de vins plutôt nature mais sans excès…de simples assiettes bistrotières et des tartines généreuses à partir de bons produits…”
L’Express (2008) “…la maison cueille ses fromages, sa cochonnaille, son andouille fumée au lard ou ses sardines millésimées chez quelques pointures d’artisans. Aucun danger non plus côté cave, bio-naturo-dynamique.”
Photo courtesy of Le Porte Pot’s website
Frédéric Le Bordays is behind the bar and serving up excellent craft cocktails alongside a few simple small plates from chef Vanessa Krycève.
Whether or not you believe YOOM serves the most authentic dim sum in Paris may depend on whether or not you've been to Hong Kong. Now with two locations, the original on rue des Martyrs, and an outpost in the 6th.
Address: 2 rue des Hospitaliéres St. Gervais, 75004
Nearest transport: St. Paul (1)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 42 72 18 86
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Jewish
Special attributes: small plates, vegetarian options, outdoor dining, continuous all-day service, open Sunday, open Monday
Reviews of interest
David Lebovitz (2008) ” If you’re craving something other than French food, the middle eastern combination salads here offer a bit of a respite…”