This wine bar next door to (and run by) Le Chateaubriand boasts food by Inaki Aizpitarte, a smooth marble design by Rem Koolhaas and Clement Blanchet, and a great selection of affordable vins naturels.

Practical information

Address: 131 avenue Parmentier, 75011
Nearest transport: Goncourt (11)
Hours: Dinner, Tuesday-Saturday; lunch, Tuesday-Friday; Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Reservations not necessary
Telephone: 01 55 28 78 88
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Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: small plates, market-based cooking, renowned chef
Type of crowd: hipsters, foodies, bobos, style hounds
Interior: polished & modern
Atmosphere: bustling

Reviews of interest

  • François Simon (2012) “C’est très ludique, allusif. Parfois, on voudrait que le morceau dure plus longtemps. Mais l’air du temps se veut ainsi : concis, net, sans ambages. Allusif. Il y eut dans cette soirée multitude de petits éclairs.”
  • John Talbott (2011) “One day I adore IA’s cooking and the next time I don’t ‘get it.’  Colette says she’s had it.  Maybe I have too.”
  • Bruno Verjus (2011) “La précision des assaisonnements instille les mets de puissantes vagues jouissives. Soupe de champignons de Paris dressée comme un cobra. Mordant des champignons/condiments au vinaigre, de l’anguille fumée et de la poudre de trompettes de la mort.”
  • Gilles Pudlowski (2011) “Bref, voilà de la cuisine vive, drôle, amusante, intuitive, mi-moderne, mi-ménagère, qui craque et croque, se révélant simplement savoureuse, légère, sapide, bien faite, sans bavure d’aucune sorte…”
  • François-Regis Gaudry – L’Express (2011) “Au moins deux choses merveilleuses à la carte du Dauphin…Le risotto à l’encre de seiche électrisé par un zeste de cédrat…[et] Un boulgour « massé » dans un pesto roquette-cresson, chair de crabe et pointes de crème au raifort…”
  • Barbra Austin for Girls’ Guide to Paris (2011) “…in the evenings the menu is built for grazing, with an ever-changing roster of small plates, some simple (ham, chorizo), some less so. There was a brandade that had been deconstructed into a brothy concoction, light, loose and delicious. A bowl of boeuf bourguignon was topped with crisp carrots and curvy crosnes…”
  • The Paris Notebook (2011) “…even when Aizpitarte misses, I like what he’s trying to do…turning out his own style of inventive cooking, using exceptional ingredients, at affordable prices.  In doing so, he makes avant-guard cooking, a little more accessible to all.
  • Chrisoscope (2010) “Ce marbre blanc me fait penser aux WC des invités chez mes parents au Liban (appartement achevé fin 1996).”
  • Aaron Ayscough (2010) “…there are simply no disappointing glass pours…the menu is the work of a real overachiever…the other night when I dropped by with my friend F, we shared a plate of pousse-pieds, or goose barnacles…”
  • Meg Zimbeck for BlackBook (2010) “…Put a bar in the middle and serve the most pedigreed natural wines at ridiculously low prices – €5 per glass. Line the counter with pretty Belleville girls and dangle long strips of Iberian ham in front of their noses. Put some foam on the sea scallops with salsify, some blood sausage on the oyster tapioca. Call it the most hyped (and rightly so) wine bar in Paris.”
  • Food Intelligence (2010) “Une boite de marbre de Carrare, un bar boisé et vernis comme un Riva, une mise en abîme, quelques éléments probant à découvrir à partir de la fin novembre au Dauphin dans un décor signé Rem Koolhaas et Clément Blanchet.”

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