Madman Jacques Genin crafts some of the city's most exquisite chocolate, but he's almost equally known for his caramels and pâtes de fruits. You might mistake his shop in the northern Marais for a luxury jeweler. The airy space is filled with stunning floral arrangements and white-gloved assistants assembling chocolate boxes. Favorite chocolates include the menthe fraîche (fresh mint), the noisette-feuilleté (crispy hazelnut praline) and fève tonka (tonka bean). The mango-passion fruit caramels are stunning, but we love his anything-but-plain nature version. Expect his pâtes de fruits to change with the seasons, but keep an eye out for orange sanguine (blood orange) in winter and berry flavors like fraise and framboise (strawberry and raspberry) in summer.
Did you know that at least half of Paris restaurants are closed on Sunday? We’ve put together this list to help you find a great meal on this very tricky day of rest.
Monday can be a difficult day for dining in Paris, but there are still plenty of great options to choose from. We’ve highlighted below the places that feature on our list of Favorite Paris Restaurants. You can also consult our list of Paris Restaurants Open on Sunday.
Here’s our annual calendar of what’s open during the summer holiday, based on information that we’ve confirmed directly with Paris restaurants. We’ve organized the findings by arrondissement, so you can scroll to see the schedule of your favorite restaurant, and we’ve added color and descriptions to to let you know more about these restaurants at a glance.
In 2016, the team from Saturne took over a historic bar near the Cirque d'Hiver and installed chef Sota Atsumi (ex-Vivant) in the kitchen. Atsumi's dishes dominated Instagram for a solid two years and Clown Bar became one of the town's most difficult reservations to snag.
Le 6 Paul Bert had a brief closure followed by several different chefs and menu makeovers. We're not sure what's going on over there right now, but will update this description after another visit.
David Lebovitz (2015) “Like most experimental food, not everything is a hit. A starter of mustard leaf sorbet that was paired with mirabelle plums and smoked cheese (shown up above) tasted – well…like a frozen puree of mustard leaves. But a grated carrot sorbet with pea puree and pea shoots was excellent. And I loved the ripe strawberries with parsley ice cream and fruit leather that led the way to the final course.”
The Financial Times (2014) “On a recent visit, the four-course degustation menu began on a savory note – raw tuna paired with tangy orbs of red and white currants, droplets of peach purée, avocado sorbet, and a red onion emulsion that was so good I’d like to suggest they sell it as a condiment.”
Sugared & Spiced (2014) “This second visit to Dessance was overall a pleasant experience. Some dishes were a bit too much for me in terms of flavor combination, but Dessance still remains an interesting address to visit for its unusual creations. For a change of the Paris sweet scene, why not?”
The New York Times (2014) “The menu at Dessance doesn’t run toward the pastries, cakes and tarts that a desserts-only concept might imply, but rather offers a small but intriguing collection of dishes that can be eaten as both desserts and main courses, including, for example, a surprising combination of violet-colored vitelotte potato purée with raw and poached apples, arugula and marjoram granité.”
Le Figaro (2014) “Plutôt convaincante à prouver, par un jeu de compositions biseautées, que l’idée du repas en mode sucré ne se réduit pas au final d’un repas.”
Table à Découvert (2014) “Le menu ne se substitue pas à un repas (à moins qu’il y ait des adeptes), mais se déguste comme un moment à part, après un plat salé dégusté ailleurs (même s’il y a 2,3 propositions de salées comme des madeleines au roquefort, une assiette de comté, coing et scones ou un foie gras mi-cuit, butternut, fruit de la passion, brioche).”
Address: 31 rue Lepic, 75018 Nearest transport: Abbesses (12), Blanche (2) Hours: Open every day from 8:30am Reservations: Reservations not accepted Telephone: 01 84 79 23 40 Average price for lunch: Less than 10€ Style of cuisine: Baked goods, soups/salads/sandwiches WebsiteFacebook
Address: 25 rue Chanzy, 75011 Nearest transport: Rue des Boulets (9), Charonne (9) Hours: Open every day from 8am-7pm Telephone: 01 55 87 21 40 WebsiteFacebook
Reviews of interest
Paris Bouge (2016) “L’incroyable (inégalable même!) chocolat chaud aux notes biscuitées et pralinées, la tablette «grand cru» au lait et noisettes, l’entremet noisettes avec crème de noisettes, ganache gianduja nappé d’une couche chocolat/amande. Vous le sentez ce goût de l’enfance? Addictif, sucré et craquant, lacté et boisé, c’est l’obsession de Cyril Lignac.”
Table à Découvert (2016) “Sur place, j’ai pu déguster le chocolat chaud de la maison qui n’évoquait rien de ce que je connaissais… En fait, il s’agit d’un mélange de chocolats, dont un au lait aux accents biscuités. Pas trop épais et assez sucré, il nous fait bien entrer dans l’univers gustatif de cette chocolaterie qui me fait aussitôt penser à ma lecture enfant de Charlie et la Chocolaterie.”
Le Figaro (2016) “A découvrir aussi, cinq barres chocolatées (5€) au caramel biscuité lait ou noix de coco/framboise, revisitant le Twix, le Bounty ou le Snickers. Côté pâtisseries (entre 3 et 6€), un large éventail de tarte au chocolat, éclair, caraïbes, entremets noisettes, muffin, brownie, brioche tonka, roulé choco-orange, tigré chocolat, cookie choco-caramel ou encore macarons. Sans oublier la chocolatine! Un petit paradis pour Charlie.”
Atabula (2016) “La Chocolaterie de Cyril Lignac n’est pas qu’une boutique. Elle se veut surtout être une étape où les « chocoholics » prennent le temps de savourer leur ingrédient préféré. On peut y siroter un chocolat chaud tout en dévorant un muffin tout chocolat sur une grande table d’hôtes.”
Photo via La Chocolaterie Cyril Lignac’s Facebook page
Address: 60, rue du Cherche Midi, 75006 Hours: Open Monday-Saturday for lunch & dinner. Closed Sunday. Telephone: +33 1 45 48 86 79 Facebook / Instagram
In Other Words
Time Out (2016) “As soon as you enter this well-presented cave-cum-restaurant on the Rue du Cherche-Midi, you get an inkling you’re going to eat well. There’s something about all those interesting wine bottles stacked on the walls, the friendly intimacy of the main room (just 15 tables) and the small kitchen nestled at the back that immediately gives a good, homey impression.”
Address: 21 rue Keller, 75011 Nearest transport: Voltaire (9), Bastille (1,5,8), Ledru-Rollin (8) Hours: Open every day Reservations: Walk-Ins Welcome Telephone: 01 48 06 03 95 WebsiteFacebookInstagram
What people are saying
Hipsters in Paris (2015) “Excellent drinks made without any pretension, at reasonable prices, with a great vinyl-only soundtrack to get you through the night.”
World’s Best Bars (2015) “Witness the cocktail list, a short but inventive thing, populated in the main by American classics with a few contemporary twists thrown in for good measure. The menu features their take on the Lemon drop, the Royal Jamaican Yacht Club and the Clover Club, but there are also house tipples available featuring ingredients like red pepper and coriander infused tequila.”
52 Martinis (2015) “Here, you can sip like a Californian lounge lizard of the 50’s when “modern design” meant comfy booths, kicky palm prints and Jetsons-like abstract art… Lone Palm is a laid back and nostalgic nod to simpler times that turns out good drinks at good prices without the need to put on airs.”
Paris Bouge (2015) “Tenu par Benoit et Cédric, aussi responsables du Tiki Lounge, le Lone Palm est un bar à cocktails qui revêt l’allure feutrée d’un établissement américain des 60’s, dans une atmosphère qui rappelle la chaleur de Palm Springs ou de Miami.”
COVID-19 UPDATE: Astrance is currently closed until further notice.
Astrance in Photos
In Other Words
As of early 2020, work has begun on a new l’Astrance at the former location of le Jamin, set to open summer 2020.
Condé Nast Traveler (2015) “It’s a sanctuary where you can revel in the pleasures of such dishes as spinach with spicy piquillo peppers, chili pepper sorbet, and baby ravioli stuffed with a tangy bite of citron.”
Universally praised Franco-Chinois fare from Adeline Grattard, and all but impossible to book. The restaurant moved to a new location at 121, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 in June 2015 and converted their old space at 4, rue Sauval into a tea salon and to-go window selling delicious steamed buns (bao).
Address: 121, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 Hours: Open Wednesday-Saturday for lunch & dinner. Closed Sunday, Monday & Tuesday. Telephone: +33 1 40 26 08 07 Website / Instagram
COVID-19 UPDATE: Following the easing of lockdown, Yam’Tcha is currently offering meals to take away or to eat in at Lai’Tcha (7, rue du Jour), its second restaurant open Thursday-Saturday noon-6pm (until 10pm for takeaway) and Sunday noon-8pm. It is also offering a menu called Dîners d’Adeline Thursday-Saturday at 7:30pm or 9pm. Reserve online or via email (reservation@yamtcha.com). It has a few tables outside.
Marc Sibard, manager of Caves Augé and wine buyer for Lavinia, was found guilty on July 6, 2017 of multiple counts of criminal sexual assault, sexual harassment and psychological harassment against his female employees.
This tiny space near the Palais Royal functions functions both as a neighborhood wine bar and as a holding tank for those waiting for their table at the restaurant upstairs. The printed wine list is filled with so many interesting bottles, and the ever-changing chalkboard list has plenty of options by the glass. The food options have changed several times over the years. Their famous fried chicken is no longer available here, having moved over to Ellsworth, but you can still order small plates to nibble with your wine. Options on the menu right now include veal tartare, house-made pork and duck terrine with pistachios, and warm Mont d’Or cheese with pickled mushrooms. Groups of more than two will have a hard time squeezing in, but the intimate space is perfect for an apéro before dinner upstairs or elsewhere in the neighborhood.
Address: 5, rue saint Bernard, 75011 Hours: Open Monday-Friday 8:45am-6pm. Closed Saturday & Sunday. Telephone: +33 9 80 81 82 85 Website / Facebook / Instagram
Our Review
We have not yet reviewed this restaurant. Below you’ll find a summary of reviews to see what others are saying about it.
In Other Words
The New York Times (2019) is overwhelmed by Mokonuts’ daring decision to shutter for dinner, noting that the “the succinct, hyper-seasonal menu at Mokonuts, with its thoughtful natural wine list, reads like it’s for a fancy dinner. But the cafe is open only for breakfast and lunch.”
Address: 159 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine, 75011 Nearest transport: Faidherbe-Chaligny (8), Ledru-Rollin (8) Hours: Open Monday-Saturday 9am-10pm, Sunday 10am-10pm Reservations: Walk-ins welcome, but book a day or two in advance for lunch or dinner Telephone: 01 43 46 10 14 Average price for lunch: 20-39€ Average price for dinner: 20-39€ Style of cuisine: Italian Facebook
Reviews of interest
Le Nouvel Observateur (2016) “Son restaurant Capucine, ouvert l’été dernier, compte déjà parmi les meilleures tables italiennes de Paris. Stefania Melis est l’une des chefs de file d’une nouvelle génération de chefs transalpins.”
HiP Paris (2015) “The doors stay open all day, serving light dishes like a fresh tomato soup, carpaccio with arugula and parmesan, or ricotta and cherry tomato bruschetta. Stop by in the afternoon for a relaxed summer lunch or early in the eveningto savor Italian charcuterie and cheese plates with a glass of prosecco. For a little something sweet, don’t overlook the simple vanilla and apricot panna cotta. The café only offers smaller sharing plates and closes at 9pm, making it a good pick for an apéro before dinner”
Le Fooding (2015) “Where in Paris can you savor… a supremely fresh sea bream carpaccio with cherries, drizzled with Cédric Casanova’s Sicilian olive oil, and served with a glass of Filippi Soave? Bite into incomparable, perfectly seasoned polpette in a sauce made with real tomatoes, while sipping on an ethereal glass of Montepulciano Cirelli? Rediscover the vanilla flavor of an ingenuous panna cotta with chopped peaches?”
Le Figaro (2015) “Un lieu décontracté dans lequel on vient apprécier lasagnes, panino, raviolis, fromages et charcuteries.”
Paris Bouge (2015) “Sur une carte bien éclectique ne laissant aucun incontournable italien au dépourvu (si ce n’est la pizza!), on retrouve entre autres: panino, lasagnes, raviolis, fromages et charcuteries. Ce jour-là on opte pour les polpette al sugo, juteuses boulettes de viande et ricotta, à la sauce tomate gorgée de soleil, puis parsemées de parmesan, voilà une simplicité des plus resplendissantes.”
Time Out (2015) “Le Caffè dei Cioppi est mort, vive Capucine! Voilà un mal pour un bien. A la place du très regretté resto italien du faubourg Saint-Antoine, une délicieuse caffetteria à la mode transalpine a vu le jour, au mois de juillet.”
A Nous Paris (2015) “Même esprit italo-rustique, même précision. Soupe de tomate froide (6€) – épais et savoureux –, polpette al sugo ou boulettes de veau à la sauce tomate (15€) – frais -, panna cotta aux brugnons (6€) – soyeux. Les vins – gentillets – suivent, sans plomber la note, à l’instar du montepulciano d’abruzzo de Cirelli (4€), et le café (2,20€) ponctue en beauté cette dînette.”
A recent visit didn’t live up to the hype in which Thierry Dufroux’s Basque-inflected bistrot was declared “one of the revelations of 2013.” With the exception of a vanilla millefeuille with fresh strawberries, every dish was fine but forgettable. The wine list was uninspired and service was brisk and joyless. Three years ago, when most of this restaurant’s reviews were written, Belhara may have stood out as more exciting. It may have actually been more exciting back then. But today, when Paris is experiencing a renaissance of old-fashioned cuisine bourgeoise, Belhara doesn’t quite make it to Our Top 50 Paris Restaurants. Its saving grace: three courses for 38€ is still a great value for dinner in the 7ème near the Eiffel Tower.
Booking restaurants in Paris can be a nightmare. Even for those who speak French, simply getting a human being on the other end of the phone can be a challenge.
Address: 2 rue Auguste Vacquerie, 75016 Nearest transport: Kléber (6), George V (1) Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday; Open Monday-Friday for lunch & dinner Reservations: Book a day or two in advance for dinner only; Reservations not accepted for lunch Telephone: 01 47 20 10 45 Average price for lunch: 20-39€ Average price for dinner: 20-39€ Style of cuisine: Small plates & tapas, Japanese WebsiteFacebook
Reviews of interest
Le Figaro (2015) “Cuisine foisonnante misant sur la braise (poulpe, poulette et ventrèche de porc en brochettes, grillés au barbecue japonais) et la malice: burger de bœuf wagyu, blé façon risotto, calamars en tempura…”
Le Fooding (2015) “Lorsque Le 116 ranime les braises rougeoyantes du sumibiyaki (barbecue) au rare charbon Binchotan, et envoie sur céramiques Mami un tentacule de poulpe grillé à la chair attendrie, un calamar saisi à point, trait de citron et feuilles de persil, une ventrèche de saumon d’Ecosse ou de porc ibérique, une poulette du Pâtis, et de très belles pièces de bœuf wagyu Ozaki servies avec légumes grillés et « frites maison » – de gros quartiers de bintje cuits à l’eau, farinés et mis en friture.”
Address: 9 place de la Madeleine, 75008 Nearest transport: Madeleine (8, 12, 14) Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner Reservations: Book a few weeks in advance Telephone: 01 42 65 22 90 Average price for lunch: 60-100€ Average price for dinner: More than 100€ Style of cuisine: Haute Cuisine WebsiteFacebookBook Online
Reviews of interest
L’Express (2015) “Il dégaine des asperges vertes de Roques-Hautes superbes de croquant et de profondeur végétale, et les chatouilleavec une tapenade tonique olives vertes-fleurs de coriandre. Il cuirasse la noix de ris de veau d’une belle coloration croustillante et l’escorte de jeunes carottes aux graines de moutarde et d’un jus de veau sans bavure. Il envoie des rafales de pistaches de Bronte sur un valeureux pigeon rôti ou sur une irrésistible île flottante au coeur coulant de caramel.”
Address: 42 avenue Gabriel, 75008 Nearest transport: Franklin Roosevelt (1, 9) Hours: Open every day for breakfast, lunch and dinner Reservations: Book a few days in advance for breakfast and lunch; Book a few weeks in advance for dinner Telephone: 01 58 36 60 60 Average price for lunch: More than 100€ Average price for dinner: More than 100€ Style of cuisine: Classic French, Haute Cuisine WebsiteBook online
Reviews of interest
Le Monde (2015) “L’hôtel La Réserve abrite, près des Champs-Elysées, un beau restaurant dont le chef cultive une verve culinaire à tomber par terre.”
Le Figaro (2015) “Même chez les grandes tables, il y a parfois cette volonté d’être à belle distance. L’éprouver, cette saison, en une parenthèse palace, du côté de cette table d’allure, soutenue par un chef signant et stylant une cuisine en talons hauts mais refusant avec pudeur les postures et les ego. Il y a là une gastronomie en charme discret que des chambres coquettes (à l’étage) et un opportun patio se plaisent à préfacer ou conclure.”
Gault & Millau (2015) “Tout est doré sur tranche dans ce palace jeune et bien né : la situation rue Gabriel, si facile d’accès depuis l’Elysée, le cadre, le service, les tarifs et un chef talentueux, Jérôme Banctel, que l’on connut chez Senderens.”
Gilles Pudlowski (2015) “Le brunch qui se prolonge en repas alerte est carrément royal: oeuf mimosa avec avocat façon guacamole et tourteau, tartare de veau aux huîtres et wasabi qui fait des clins d’oeil au vitello tonnato, ou encore salade de fruits sont épatants. Comme les « vrais » plats – macaroni au parmesan et boeuf croustillant, Saint Jacques et cèpes en civet ou encore côtes d’agneau de Lozère purée de butternut – enchantent.”
Address: 79 rue Saint-Dominique, 75007 Nearest transport: La Tour-Maubourg (8), Invalides (8, 13, RER C) Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Thursday & Friday for lunch and dinner; Open Tuesday, Wednesday & Saturday for dinner only Reservations: Book a few weeks in advance Telephone: 01 47 05 79 00 Average price for lunch: 60-100€ Average price for dinner: More than 100€ Style of cuisine: Haute Cuisine WebsiteFacebook
Reviews of interest
Le Figaro (2016) “Venu de Courchevel, Sylvestre Wahid succède à Piège du côté de chez Thoumieux, manœuvre la berline de brasserie du rez-de-chaussée et ordonne, à l’étage, une gastronomie de force tranquille, sans esbroufe, d’un chic foncier, appliquée au saisonnier, consciencieuse à disposer en menu dédié (chair, mer, végétal) une cuisine renouant avec la générosité et ce vieux mot que l’on croyait usé: la gourmandise.”
Le Monde (2015) “Chef Sylvestre Wahid, doublement étoilé, propose une cuisine pleine d’humilité mais de très haute technicité… Sa cuisine lui ressemble: calme et aiguisée.”
Gault & Millau (2015) “L’enjeu est énorme, mais le jeune chef, très confirmé, qui anima avec brio l’Oustau de Baumanière pendant des années, a les épaules assez larges, à la fois pour essuyer les plâtres et les critiques du début, et pour pose sa propre patte sur une carte à son effigie.”
L’Express (2015) “Oeuf de poule, cèpes au fumet de truffes blanches en chaud-froid avec de la truffe blanche d’Alba finement rappée:Voici un plat signature qui se décline tout au long de l’année avec d’autres matières premières en accompagnement de l’oeuf. Gustativement, on comprend vite qu’on a affaire à une assiette gourmande parfaitement maitrisée au niveau des accords et du tempo. Une expérience que l’on aimerait renouveler lors d’une future déclinaison, juste pour voir si c’est aussi bon.”
Address: 30 rue Notre-Dame de Nazareth, 75003 Hours: Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch & dinner. Open Saturday for dinner only. Closed Sunday & Monday. Telephone: +33 1 43 56 22 95 Website / Facebook / Instagram
Our Review
We’ve visited and will be posting our review soon. In the meantime, you can scroll to see photos and what others have said about Elmer.
Elmer in Pictures
Smoked herring with potatoes, algae, faiselle and radish
Veal tartare with algae and marinated egg yolk
Quasi de veau with topinambours & crosnes
Pigeon with parsley root and flower sprout
Challans duck with quince and caramelized endives
Côte de cochon with spinach, salsify and radish
Dining room
Pear wtih chamomile, fennel, peanut and faisselle
Apples with licorice, sorrel and Calvados
Roasted Victoria pineapple wiht lemon-passionfruit and red shizo sorbet
In Other Words
John Talbott (2016) “They were among the best ribs I’ve ever had anywhere – moist on the inside, crispy on the outside, tasting of wood and Southern sauce.”
Small plates and natural wine from Florent Ciccoli, the owner of Café du Coin and Cheval d'Or. Formerly known as Bones, Ciccoli changed the name when chef James Henry departed and the offer became more simple and casual. The wine bar up front is a great place to gather and nibble with friends.
Address: 20, boulevard des Filles du Calvaire, 75003 Hours: Open Tuesday-Friday 8am-8pm. Open Saturday 8:30am-7pm. Open Sunday 9am-6pm. Closed Monday. Telephone: +33 1 58 30 72 36 Website / Facebook / Instagram
This organic bakery won third place in the 2017 Best Baguette in Paris competition.
In Other Words
Les Grands Ducs (2015) “Tanguy Lahaye, son créateur, est un puriste. Le nom (Dupain, tout simplement), les produits, le décor, tout a été pensé avec une exigence vertueuse… Tanguy est parvenu à obtenir le pain parfait, nommé ici la Miche Dupain: une croûte ni trop claire, ni trop foncée mais assurément croustillante, une mie à l’alvéolage équilibré, un doux goût de levain avec une pointe d’acidité en fin de bouche.”
Bayou-themed Baton Rouge is a high-end dive that’s strategically manufactured, but still thoroughly enjoyable. It’s rowdy, rollicking good fun; the tone is set by the twangy soundtrack and good-natured staff, who set down a bowl of peanuts immediately upon your arrival and actively encourage you to throw your shells on the floor.
The atmosphere, ripe with plastic alligators, could potentially feel silly, but it’s saved by the cocktails which are anything but. Partners Joseph Biolatto of Le Forum and Julien Escot of noted bar Papa Doble in Montpellier have curated a mixture of pricey bottle-aged cocktails, unusual (for Paris) milk punches, classic American highballs, a variety of old-fashioneds, a cherry-tinged take on New Orleans staple the sazerac, and an original Baton Rouge creation of cognac, absinthe, and vermouth topped with champagne. The cheeky presentation features red Solo cups garnished with paper umbrellas for true American frat party style, or a stroop waffle on top of a bottle for a milk punch.
It’s interesting to see a Parisian bar delve into regionally specific American comfort foods such as shrimp poboys, muffaletta sandwiches and BBQ ribs. While I wouldn’t exactly call the po boy authentic, as that would require the shrimp to be deep-fried and served on an actual hoagie roll, it was tastier than a hot mayonnaise sandwich with a few seared shrimp has any right to be. It’s sloppy, fun, drunk food that didn’t cost a fortune and although not perfect, it does the trick to sop up all the sazeracs.
Address: 88, rue des Martyrs, 75018 Hours: Open Tuesday-Wednesday and Friday-Sunday 7am-7pm. Closed Monday & Thursday. Telephone: +33 1 42 23 62 81 Website / Facebook / Instagram
Sébastien Mauvieux’s baguette was chosen as the best in Paris in 2012.
In Other Words
Le Figaro (2016) “Sa jolie boutique située au cœur des Abbesses arbore une devanture bleue élégante et propose quelques tables pour déguster sur place ses pâtisseries «classiques mais très bonnes». Très attentif à la qualité de ses ingrédients, notre lauréat prépare ses chouquettes avec du lait entier et du beurre AOC Charentes-Poitou ou Normandie. Il en réalise une cinquantaine par jour, qui partent en un éclair le week-end. Vous êtes prévenus!”
Address: 118 rue Amelot, 75011 Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8), Oberkampf (5, 9) Hours: Closed Sunday; Open Monday-Saturday for lunch & dinner Reservations: Book a couple days in advance Telephone: 01 47 00 90 18 Average price for lunch: 20-39€ Average price for dinner: 40-59€ Style of cuisine: Modern French, Argentinean Facebook
Reviews of interest
Paris Bouge (2016) “De la côte de bœuf à partager pour deux, ris de veau ou Saint-Jacques jusqu’au duo langoustine et pomme de terres, la braise nourrie au feu de bois enflamme les assiettes à presque tous les coups! Et quand la flamme argentine s’estompe, on s’extasie devant un millefeuille au foie gras et anguille fumée d’anthologie : gras onctueux et fumaison fusionnent et s’électrifient à coups de pickles de betterave et d’un condiment agrumes.”
Le Figaro (2016) “Cœur de bœuf fumé, déclinaison de topinambours: étonnant! Carré de sanglier, salsifis grillés, noisettes: charpenté. Tartelette aux pommes, camomille, citron vert: charmante variation de texture.”
Le Fooding (2015) “On the lunch menu when we were there: an impeccable venison and hazelnut terrine surrounded by cornichons; perfectly cooked line-caught bass with an anchovy and bergamot emulsion that was as fresh as summer dew, enlivened by pink and green radishes; and a fairytale ending with the marriage of chestnut and a fromage blanc ice cream, which was a little over-the-top in terms of presentation.”
You’re not here for the bare-bones space or the bare-bones service, you’re here for the fresh dumplings, pure and simple. They’re cheap, abundant, and most importantly, good.
There are usually 10 varieties on the menu including beef and turnip, pork and celery, shrimp & chive, and a great vegetarian mushroom option, all priced around €5 for a plate of 10, and served either grilled or boiled. The cucumber, peanut or noodle side salads are a good complement. Space inside is cramped, so plan on a short wait for a table, and don’t let the length of the queue put you off: Most are waiting for their goods to-go, no surprise when 100 frozen dumplings can be purchased for as little as €20.
Address: 16 rue Paul Bert, 75011 Nearest transport: Rue des Boulets (9), Charonne (9), Faidherbe-Chaligny (8) Hours: Open every day Reservations: Reservations not accepted Telephone: 01 58 53 50 92 Average price for lunch: 10-19€ Average price for dinner: 10-19€ Style of cuisine: Small plates
Le Figaro (2016) “À la Cave Paul Bert, les coudes contemporains trouvent à lever les classiques et les inattendus de cette vigne dite dynamique (même si parfois carrément éteinte) tout en scrutant le jour le jour d’une petite cuisine d’ardoise, vive, percutante, pertinente, un peu courte dans l’assiette mais généreuse à rappeler que le nouveau comptoir parisien balance aussi bien que les tapas ibères, izakaya nippons et autres cicchetti italiens.”
Le Fooding (2016) “Des charcu-tueries et bien plus, car le chef montréalais, Louis-Philippe Riel, ancien du 6 Paul Bert, fait mieux qu’éponger l’apéro: œuf mayo aux truffes ; dinguerie de ris de veau aux coques et rattes; épaule de cerf braisée aux carottes et aïoli ; génial pressé de queue de bœuf, vinaigrette aux anchois et navets marinés…”
Address: 1 Avenue des Marronniers, 94380 Bonneuil-sur-Marne Hours: Closed to the public Telephone: +33 1 43 77 96 84 Website / Facebook / Instagram
This brewery has been making some of Paris’ best beer since it opened in 2014. In 2016, the brewery moved from trendy Montreuil to a larger space in Bonneuil-sur-Marne. It is no longer open to the public, but the beers are available in supermarkets, épiceries, and at many quality restaurants and bars in the city.
In Other Words
Wine Terroirs (2015) “This is indeed a very gentle and civilized I.P.A. and for a change I like that (many of the ones I got in the U.S. were in my taste quite excessive in aroma and power) and could finish my glass easily, I give strong recommendations for this I.P.A.”
Address: 4 rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin, 75010 Nearest transport: Strasbourg-Saint-Denis (4, 8,9) Hours: Open every day noon-midnight Reservations: Reservations not accepted Telephone: 01 40 37 69 43 Average price for lunch: 10-19€ Average price for dinner: 10-19€ Style of cuisine: Kebab and falafel WebsiteFacebook
Reviews of interest
Le Fooding (2015) “Un «fine kebab»… Servie en gamelles rondes avec des frites de petit calibre, la viande qui tourne débarque en trois versions: agneau broche (épaule et poitrine marinées citron/épices, oignon nouveau, caviar d’aubergine et sauce curry), cochon broche (échine de porc orange/moutarde) et agneau braisé (viande cuite au jus pimenté, pickles, harissa…), plus un kebab fallafels (boulettes de pois chiches, chou vinaigré, yaourt à l’ail et salsa d’herbes).”
Paris Bouge (2015) “Notre crush: les boulettes de pois chiches, chou vinaigré, yaourt à l’ail et aux herbes, le tout servi avec des frites.”
Figaroscope (2015) “Avec un pain moelleux, des marinades bien senties, et des viandes finement sélectionnées et cuisinées (cochon et agneau à la broche ou agneau braisé), Rococo fait déjà de nombreux adeptes.”
Table à Découvert (2015) “Mousse au chocolat… Une densité comme je l’aime personnellement, un taux de gras proportionnel à celui de chocolat et de sucre, c’est à dire l’équilibre entre les trois. J’ai une image là soudain : le triangle équilatéral. Bref, elle est parfaite.”
Address: 65, rue Traversière, 75012 Hours: Open Tuesday & Wednesday 3:30-7:30pm. Open Thursday-Saturday 11am-1pm, 2-7:30pm. Open Sunday 11am-2pm. Closed Monday. Telephone: +33 1 44 74 67 84 Website / Facebook
We have not yet reviewed this shop, but you can read more about the concept here. You’ll find practical information about location and hours on this page, along with links to other reviews. Feel free to share your own opinion in the comments.
In Other Words
Table à Découvert (2016) “Quant aux recettes, elles ont une typicité comme j’en ai rarement goûtée. De goût tout d’abord, puisqu’on sent chaque élément de la recette, mais aussi de texture dans le sens où chaque farce a sa texture propre, plus ou moins de mâche, de tendresse, de fondant… Simplement cuites dans de l’eau frémissante (4 min) et arrosées de beurre à la sauge, c’est somptueux.”
We have not yet reviewed this wine bar, but you’ll find practical information about location and hours on this page, along with links to other reviews. Feel free to share your own opinion in the comments.
The bright, expansive bar at CopperBay is a nice antidote to the cramped, dark speakeasies that make up much of the Parisian cocktail scene. It’s unpretentious and accessible, from the perspective of pricing – cocktails start at 10€, which is far lower than most other spots of comparable quality – and of service. Before ordering at the bar, clients are given a deck of cards as the menu. Each one explains a beverage and breaks down the ingredients and flavor profile into a pie chart. Servers are easygoing and attentive. They care about the presentation, potentially too much, and you may find yourself being served a cocktail inside of a plastic bag that roughly resembles a bouquet of flowers, but it’s fun.
A recent favorite during this chilly winter was the “Hot Butterhead” of fragrant calvados, rum, Velvet Falernum, and liberal chunks of still melting butter, served warm in a mug wearing its own woolly sweater. The drinks menu has a good selection of pastis in all its forms, classic drinks, and CopperBay’s own original creations which are complex, multilayered and memorable (even if in the case of some, like the cauliflower-banana rum cocktail, perhaps for the wrong reasons). By way of eats, there’s a small menu of impeccable if typical products (burrata, rillettes). Although CopperBay appears to have gone through a few soul searching iterations since opening in late 2014 – the vaguely nautical bar no longer brands itself as “Mermaids & Magic Potions” for example – it’s hitting its stride right now.
Address: 72 rue de Rochechouart, 75009 Nearest transport: Anvers (2) Hours: Closed Monday & Tuesday; Open Wednesday-Sunday for lunch and dinner Reservations: Walk-Ins Welcome Telephone: 01 40 37 44 02 Average price for lunch: 20-39€ Average price for dinner: 20-39€ Style of cuisine: Italian & pizza Website Facebook
Reviews of interest
Alexander Lobrano (2015) “At Faggio, it wasn’t that anyone was unfriendly, but rather that no one was going to acknowledge that you’d had a long wait before being fed. And of course the wine list was really top-heavy in terms of pricing, since the only way to make the rent if you’re running a pizzeria in Paris is to sell a good amount of pricey wine.”
Figaroscope (2015) “Une dizaine de recettes à la carte (dont trois blanches), certaines faisant preuve d’une louable originalité, comme la Diavola, notre préférée, à base de sauce tomate, fior di latte, Nduja, oignons rouges, mozza fumée, saucisse piquante et pousses de moutarde, ou l’étonnante Vulcano, pizza farcie aux légumes ronde (et pas en demi-lune, comme le calzone classique). Résultat? Une pâte fine et croustillante, légèrement brûlée par endroits, et une garniture, sourcée avec soin, top qualité.”
Paris Bouge (2015) “Les pizzas de Gioacchino Loria, un ex d’Il Brigante : une marque de reconnaissance qui éloigne tout soupçon de déception. Finesse extrême, croûte qui craquelle, brûlures réjouissantes par endroits, la pâte de ces pizzas est une vraie divinité. La sauce tomate, puissamment ensoleillée, est un modèle du genre.”
L’Express (2015) “quand Fabien Lombardi, ex-bartender et cofondateur de l’Entrée des artistes, ouvre une pizzeria, il en résulte un loft brut de travaux doté d’un four à bois -du faggio (hêtre)- dompté avec dextérité par Gioacchino Loria, un pizzaiolo calabrais hors pair.”
Address: 184 rue St Martin, 75003 Nearest transport: Rambuteau (11) Hours: Closed Monday; Open Tuesday-Sunday for lunch and dinner Reservations: Walk-Ins Welcome Telephone: 06 52 66 75 31 Average price for lunch: 10-19€ Average price for dinner: 10-19€ Style of cuisine: Chinese, Szechuan FacebookInstagram
Reviews of interest
Time Out (2016) “On choisit ensuite son plat de pâtes (avec ou sans soupe) comme les Dan Dan (porc haché, cacahuètes, ciboulette) en indiquant le degré de piment que l’on souhaite sur une échelle de 1 à 5. La serveuse, sans doute habituée aux Parisiens jackass, nous conseille d’opter pour un niveau 2 : et franchement c’est déjà assez hardcore. Outre le piment, le bouillon est très parfumé, les nouilles fraîches et le porc délicieux.”
Le Fooding (2015) “Dedicated to Sichuan noodles and ravioli (100% homemade), the miniature menu written out by hand is pretty similar to the one at the mother house: pork dumplings served with chaozhou (a bitter and spicy sauce) or in a soup; really good noodles with ground pork in a sauce that’s been slow-cooked with grilled chilies; vermicelle noodles in vinegar.”
Thrillist (2015) “The second outpost of beloved Deux Fois Plus de Piment, this indo-chinese restaurant will provide the spice you so rarely find (but so desperately need.)”
Paris Bouge (2015) “Les moins aventureux opteront pour le niveau 1, avec des raviolis sichuanais à la pâte maison fondante et élastique comme il faut : le piment titille gentiment. Les nouilles Dan Dan relèvent un peu le jeu : des nouilles à la belle mâche, un juteux porc épicé, des cacahuètes qui croquent et une touche acidulé avec le vinaigre de riz. Niveau deux surpassé. Les plus audacieux se risqueront au niveau 5: défi lancé.”
Address: 93, boulevard Beaumarchais, 75003 Hours: Open Monday 9:30am-9pm. Open Tuesday-Saturday 8:30am-9pm. Open Sunday 9am-8pm. Telephone: +33 1 71 18 19 09 Website / Facebook / Instagram
This sprawling 500m² space on the edge of the trendy Northern Marais does double duty. On one side, it’s an upscale market, boasting fresh fruits and vegetables, high quality cheeses, charcuterie, and deli items, as well as a bakery, an excellent selection of wines and a range of luxury local and imported grocery items. On the other, it’s a café, serving a small range of dishes made from ingredients sold next door. In a neighborhood surprisingly devoid of good grocery purveyors, the store is a revelation: The boulangerie turns out the best croissants for several blocks, the charcuterie is excellent and this is the go-to spot for top-notch pickles or proper English tea. With the Bastille market just around the corner customers might balk at the price of produce here, but if only kale will do, this is the store for you. In the café, the concise lunch menu offers very good – if overpriced – simple French classics. At a lower price point, and for smaller appetites, there’s also a nice selection of quiches, tartines and sandwiches.
This fromagerie is a welcome addition in the 11th where there’s an abundance of quality restaurants, but a serious lack of places to buy great cheese. Don’t miss the fresh dairy bar by the door where you can buy fromage frais, ricotta, and housemade cervelle de canut (a tangy cheese dip from Lyon flavored with fresh herbs and shallots) in bulk. Clément Brossault did a Tour de France of fromage on his bicycle to meet and build relationships with artisanal cheese producers before he opened his beautiful shop near Goncourt. The trip paid off and the shop is stocked with a wide variety of competitively priced cheeses. Raw milk, which can be hard to find due to its short shelf life, is delivered here from Normandy twice weekly.
