Tag Archives: Candelaria

huevos rancheros Candelaria Photo Catherine Down

Spilling the Beans: Mexican in Paris

It used to be slim pickings when it came to Mexican food in Paris, but we seemed have reached a taco tipping point with the mid-March opening of Café Chilango. Luis Rendon has left Candelaria, the taco speakeasy that started it all, to open a canal side café that serves all of one’s hipsteriest needs: quesadillas, good coffee, and eventually, cocktails.

The trendsetting taqueria hasn’t suffered with his departure. Candelaria just celebrated its 3rd birthday and the food & booze are as good as ever. For those who don’t want to hover at the tiny front room counter, table service is available in the back bar during weekday lunches and for weekend brunch. That brunch features a special breakfast cocktail menu plus huevos rancheros (pictured above).

Candelaria’s tortilla supplier, Mil Amores Tortilleria, is still turning out the best (only?) tortillas and chips in town from the back room of an 11ème apartment building. You can score some by stopping by on Fridays from 11-2pm or 6-8pm, or by ordering online. Pickups on other days and special orders can be arranged with 24 hours notice by calling or texting Erika at 06 20 32 60 92. In addition to tortillas, they sell a few jarred & canned Mexican products, and their homemade salsas should be available again soon.

Tortilla chips from Mil Amores were spotted recently in a platter of duck confit nachos at Lockwood. The heaping mound of chips layered with duck and guacamole is a mess to eat, but delicious and worth the humiliation. Mil Amores chips are also being served at La Mexcaleria, a new place that we haven’t yet tried. Has anyone been?

El Nopal – one of the first authentic Mexican counters in Paris – is still going strong, and is staging a non-hostile burrito takeover at the bar Red House this coming Thursday.

At the other end of the spectrum, Chipotle – the American burrito behemoth – has opened their second location in France. Housed inside the giant new Beaugrenelle mall in the 15th arrondissement, the location features large windows with a view of the Seine and 5€ margaritas.

Finally, Emperor Norton’s spicy West Coast brunch is no longer happening at Rice & Fish. Keep an eye on their Facebook page to know if and when Emperor Norton will return to satisfy our breakfast burrito needs.

 

Cafe Chilango Paris Photo Catherine Down

Quesadilla Coffee Bar Hits Paris

Luis Rendon has left Candelaria to open up a quesadilla coffee bar of sorts. Café Chilango will offer quesadillas, French pastries, locally roasted brews from Lomi during the day, and within a few weeks tacos & craft cocktails at night.

It’s a whole lot of rising trends to mash under one roof, but we think we like it. Rendon is a talented chef, and the café is sincere, the coffee good, the team personable, and the fresh tortillas from Mil Amores are always tasty.

They opened their doors just this week and are still working out a few kinks, so they’re currently just open for breakfast and lunch. We’re always on the hunt for good tacos and more places to quaff quality cocktails so we’ll be sure to keep you updated as their hours and concept change.

Cafe Chilango taqueria in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Café Chilango

By day, French pastries and their quintessential companion… quesadillas, at this coffee shop (using Café Lomi beans) from a co-owner of Mil Amores Tortilleria and former chef at Candelaria. At night, a cocktail bar with coffee-laced booze and tacos.

Practical information

Address: 82 rue de la Folie Méricourt, 75011
Nearest transport: Parmentier (3), Oberkampf (5,9)
Hours: Closed Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday from 10am-1am and Sunday from 11am-6pm.
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 06 58 13 37 62
Average price for lunch: under 10€
Style of cuisine: Mexican, coffee, pastries
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Photo by Meg Zimbeck

Paris has 10% of the World’s Best Bars

We already knew that Paris has great cocktail bars. But now the rest of the world does too.

10% of the best bars in the world, in fact.

Photo by Meg Zimbeck

5 Parisian watering holes placed in the Top 50 at the World’s Best Bars ceremony last night: CandelariaLe ForumLittle Red DoorLe Coq, and Sherry Butt.

Candelaria not only broke into the top 10 and but also took home top honors for Best Bar in Europe.

Cheers!

Paris Results:

Pomme Sourde at Sherry Butt

Beyond the Hotel Bar: the Next Generation of Craft Cocktails

“Don’t bother with churches, government buildings or city squares, if you want to know about a culture, spend a night in its bars,” –Ernest Hemingway

The Bar at Mary Celeste, photo by Meg Zimbeck
The Bar at Mary Celeste. Photo by Meg Zimbeck

Serious cocktail snobs, beautiful bobos, eager expats, and beer geeks alike are buzzing around the octagonal bar at Le Mary Celeste on a weekday night. Bright, airy, young, and fun, the bar is the hub around which the restaurant itself is organized.

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Le Mary Celeste in Paris - Chinese crepes with beef knuckle, peanuts, sesame, celery

First Look: Le Mary Celeste

Le Mary Celeste in Paris - oysters

Le Mary Celeste is a new restaurant from the people behind Candelaria and Glass. Accordingly, there’s a solid cocktail program and two Brooklyn beers on tap. Another creative and beautiful (now nautical) interior from David Rager, Cheri Messerli and Gilles Tombeur. These will get a lot of attention, as will the rotating cast of mostly wild oysters sold by the piece for 2-5€. But the real story here is Haan Palcu-Chang.

Haan is a Canadian of Romanian and Chinese descent whose most recent professional gigs were in Michelin-starred restaurants in Copenhagen. However skilled he may now be in the art of making foams and gels, he’s equally passionate about time spent learning how to cook from “real Asians” in New Zealand and about the ethnic food scene in his native Toronto. He’s a food nerd, and this is the first time that he’s been given control over a kitchen.

When you mix together the technique, the respect for ingredient and the ethos of everything-from-scratch, the result is a small plates menu that’s so much better than it needs to be. In the same spirit as Paris’ Au Passage or Copenhagen’s Fiskebar – this is a place where serious Food is being transmitted through a small plates medium to unshaven people in skinny jeans.

Examples

Le Mary Celeste in Paris - pickled topinambour

Le Mary Celeste in Paris - beef jerky

Le Mary Celeste in Paris - kimchi

Bar snacks of (all housemade) pickled topimambour, beef jerky, kimchi

Le Mary Celeste in Paris - Chinese crepes with beef knuckle, peanuts, sesame, celery

Crêpes Chinoises: beef shin, celery, sesame, peanuts

 There’s also a respect for vegetables here that one doesn’t often find in Paris. While we were tempted by the poitrine de veau (veal breast) with coconut milk or the pintade (guineau hen) with tare sauce, we surrendered instead to a vegetarian dish with two kinds of cabbage, black beans and a roasted carrot that was so deeply savory it could have been meat. The two dishes I’ll return for are also meat-free: steamed oysters with chili, black vinegar, and crispy shallots, plus endives with tamarind and mint. Tamarind also flavors a chocolate creme dessert with Maldon salt. When’s the last time anyone saw tamarind in Paris?

Le Mary Celeste cocktails - Judy Blue Eyes and Rain Dog

I opted instead for a dessert cocktail (or two). My favorite was the Rain Dog, made with small batch bourbon, bitters, mint, lemon and sirop de capillaire. That last ingredient is a house-made infusion of simple syrup, orange flower water, and dried maidenhair fern. It’s what makes the drink more than a mint julep, and it’s what makes the drink 12 euros.

Practical Advice

It’s possible to reserve (only by email at reservations@lemaryceleste.com), and I would recommend doing so. The dining room was absolutely packed at 8pm on a Thursday with no place to sit besides our two reserved seats.

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It’s also possible to order sequentially, another something I would recommend. Nearly all of the five dishes we ordered arrived at one time, along with a giant oyster platter, and these didn’t fit on the tiny little table. My friend and I took turns holding plates in the air above the platter to let the other person take a few bites. The result: a stream of fatty jus dribbling from the crêpe chinois onto an unsuspecting kumamoto oyster below. Delicious, actually. We then had to stack the demolished plates under my chair to free up our hands for oyster play. It made the waitress giggle, and we thought it was fun. However, other eaters may have different standards, and they should order sequentially.

The best move would be to arrive early for a first round during the 5-7 pm Happy Hour when oysters (one special per day) are sold at only 1€ a piece. Wash them down with a good bottle of Muscadet from Marc Olivier for 22€ or an even better Muscadet from Guy Bossard for 34€.  Then order everything on Haan’s food menu, and as many drinks  as you can stand from Carlos (ex-L’Hotel) Madriz’ cocktail menu. You will float out very full and, like the namesake sea vessel, on your way to wandering lost.

For more details, including address and hours, see the page for Le Mary Celeste in Our Guide to Paris Restaurants.

Candelaria taqueria in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Candelaria

With its bright, bare-bones kitchen, crowded counter, communal table, and addictive salsas — all mercifully un-Frenchified — this upper Marais spot has officially changed the game, and people are lining up for tacos and agua fresca. Go through the unmarked door next to the stove and you’ll find a serious bar, staffed by Experimental Cocktail Club grads.

 An absolute favorite

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