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Fulgurances L’Adresse

Address: 10, rue Alexandre Dumas, 75011
Nearest transport: Rue des Boulets (9), Charonne (9)
Hours: Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch & dinner. Closed Saturday-Monday.
Telephone: +33 1 43 48 14 59
Website   Book Online   Facebook   Instagram

French food magazine Fulgurances opened L’Adresse in 2015 as a culinary incubator featuring a rotating cast of guest chefs. Partnering chefs stay for varying lengths – sometimes a month and sometimes the better part of a year – and have a well-seasoned support team ready to help execute their vision. You can read more about the concept in our article “Fulgurances Opens a Restaurant,” and you can check their website to see who’s currently behind the stove.

Corn cream, mussels, escabeche & salsa majita (chef Mariana Villegas)

We’ve visited twice. In 2016, we were blown away by the food of Israeli chef Tamir Nahmias. More recently, we returned for Mariana Villegas, a young Mexican chef who previously passed through Cosme and Union Square Café in New York. Her cooking is bright and inventive. A dish called “clams and venom” married heat and brine in a surprising way, and her ceviche of trout with hibiscus was both pretty and delicious. My favorite was a brioche topped with corn cream, mussels escabeche and salsa majita – despite the fact that it was impossible to eat without making a mess.

So far, I’ve been returning to Fulgurances based on the chefs’ previous gigs and how much I love those restaurants. However, I feel like might be missing the point. With their reasonable multi-course menu for just 58€, Fulgurances makes it easy to take a risk on someone I’ve never heard of who comes from a restaurant I don’t know. Is there room for them to push the boundaries even further and bring in somebody bonkers? I for one would be game.

Fulgurances L’Adresse in Pictures

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