In the age of Instagram, the plates and dining room at Amarante feel almost defiantly unadorned. Christophe Philippe has created a haven near Bastille for those who unapologetically love fatty food and offal and who share a disdain for vegetables. You won’t find any herbs, acidity or brightness on these plates. Both the food and the ambiance are decidedly heavy. Your gut-busting meal might finish with a simple scoop of chocolate mousse or a perfectly aged piece of Camembert-de-Normandie. The… Read More »Amarante
Meg Zimbeck reviews restaurants for Paris by Mouth and is our founder and Editor-in-Chief.
Golden Poppy is a restaurant from star chef Dominique Crenn inside the Fantasia hotel. Her Paris outpost takes its name and inspiration from California, the state in which Crenn resides and runs her three-star Atelier Crenn. The menu and decor are wild and the experience is mixed. Given the high prices (small plates run from 18-48 euros) and the overall “meh?” feeling that followed our meal, it’s not a restaurant that we’re urging you to visit. GOLDEN POPPY 24 Rue… Read More »Golden poppy
We launched a newsletter in May, 2022 and have already gained more than 40,000 subscribers – readers are hungry for unbiased, independent restaurant reviews. We reserve anonymously, pay full price, and tell you what we really think. We have more than a decade of experience eating in thousands of Paris restaurants, and that experience comes in handy when we’re trying to help you find the right restaurant for the right occasion.
With its chili jam-slathered sandwiches and extra-salty chocolate cookies, Gramme could easily be found in London or Brooklyn. But Gramme shouldn’t be dismissed as a watery import – the food is excellent, and the vibe is very local. Their signature dwich (this is how Parisians now refer to sandwiches) is the sort of thing I want to eat every weekend – a runny egg with herbs, chili jam, copious herbs, and either sausage or charred broccolini on a fresh brioche bun. Their… Read More »Gramme
With its chili jam-slathered sandwiches and extra-salty chocolate cookies, Gramme could easily be found in London or Brooklyn. But Gramme shouldn’t be dismissed as a watery import – the food is excellent, and the vibe is very local. Their signature dwich (this is how Parisians now refer to sandwiches) is the sort of thing I want to eat every weekend – a runny egg with herbs, chili jam, copious herbs, and either sausage or charred broccolini on a fresh brioche… Read More »Gramme
I’m a fan of the food + vibe at Café les Deux Gares, so it’s not shocking that I also love the food + vibe at this new offering from Frédéric Lesire and Jonathan Schweizer. The duo behind Café les Deux Gares have branched out into the 11th with a natural wine bar serving small, sharable plates. What sets Le Goncourt apart from many similar establishments in the ‘hood is the quality of the cooking and the near-astonishing level of… Read More »Le Goncourt
La Tour d’Argent is a 400 year-old restaurant with an exceptional view overlooking the Seine and Notre Dame. It reopened in 2023 after a long renovation. We recently returned four our fourth visit and loved the experience – we’ll be publishing a full review very soon. We plan to include La Tour d’Argent in our selection of 50 favorite restaurants in Paris. LA TOUR D’ARGENT 15, Quai de la Tournelle, 75005Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinnerClosed Sunday & MondayReservations online… Read More »La Tour d’Argent
Géosmine is a new restaurant from chef Maxime Bouttier, who was previously cooking at the Belleville bistro Mensae. This new perch, in the heart of Oberkampf and occupying the old Botanique space, is beautifully raw. It’s a fitting setting for Bouttier’s provocative cooking, served à la carte at lunch and in tasting menu format at dinner. We’ll be publishing a full review soon, and plan to include Géosmine among our 50 Favorite Restaurants for Fall. GÉOSMINE 71 Rue de la… Read More »Géosmine
Ambos is a collaboration between two married chefs, Pierre and Cristina Chomet, who combine their culinary influences from Brittany, Venezuela and Thailand into one modern and delicious menu. AMBOS 38 Rue de Vaugirard, 75006Open Monday-Friday for lunch & dinnerClosed Saturday & SundayReservations online or at +33 1 43 54 91 39 Their Instagram / Our Instagram OUR PHOTOS OF AMBOS IN OTHER WORDS SUBSCRIBE TO OUR NEWSLETTER
Kubri is the latest Levantine restaurant to capture the hearts and bellies of Parisians. In a bright and colorful space that used to house the dark and delicious Pas de Loup, Kubri is serving the most exciting Lebanese food I’ve tasted in Paris. With three different kinds of hummus, a selection of small plates that include many vegetarian and vegan options, and family-style platters of short-ribs, there’s something here for everyone. KUBRI 108 Rue Amelot, 75011Open Tuesday to Saturday for… Read More »Kubri
Le Mermoz is a modern bistro with sincere service and an excellent selection of natural wines. What sets it apart from all the other similar bistros in the 11th is that it’s not in the 11th. It’s in the 8th, mere steps from the Champs-Elysées. Thomas Graham’s dishes are seasonal and relatively simple – most have only a few components. Sure, some of them might be pricey, like caviar adorning a beurre-blanc bathed tomato (above). Others might be exotic, like… Read More »Le Mermoz
Le Violin d’Ingres, a one-star restaurant near the Eiffel Tower, has passed from the hands of Christian Constant to Bertrand Bluy (owner of Les Papilles). The kitchen is now run by Alain Solivérès (formerly the chef at Taillevent) and Jimmy Tsaramanana. I have mixed feelings about my recent visit. When I reexamine the photos, I’m reminded of how much I loved the spelt risotto with blue lobster, the glazed sweetbreads with morel mushrooms, and the vanilla millefeuille. Almost everything was… Read More »Le Violin d’Ingres
What’s Open in August in Paris? We’ve been answering this question every year for more than a decade. If you are planning to visit Paris in late July or August, it’s important to know that most restaurants close for summer vacation. They vary a lot in terms of how much time off they take, and when they take it. We asked our favorite restaurants – the ones we recommend after visiting anonymously and paying full price – to confirm their summer holiday… Read More »What’s open in August?
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Le Jardin de Cheval Blanc is an ephemeral restaurant on the roof of the Cheval Blanc hotel that runs from June 2 to October 1. The space is lush with trees and other plantings, and the red and white theme – which extends from the table settings to the staff uniforms – feels like holiday. The red theme also extends to the food – Arnaud Donckele (the chef of the three-star restaurant downstairs) supposedly collaborated with chef William Béquin to… Read More »Le Jardin de Cheval Blanc
Alain Ducasse has created a floating restaurant that’s actually good. Ducasse sur Seine docks directly in front of the Eiffel Tower and offers an incredible view of that monument at the beginning as you arrive for your lunch or dinner. It then breaks away for a slow and silent (the boat is electric and soundless) cruise that glides past the most gorgeous Paris monuments during a two-hour circuit. At lunch, there are menus at 95€ (two courses + a beverage),… Read More »Ducasse Sur Seine
Fabula is an ephemeral restaurant inside the courtyard at the Musée Carnavalet that operates from May through September. This Marais museum about the history of Paris is worth a visit anyway, and now you can have dinner inside their stunning 16th century courtyard. Chef Julien Dumas (Le Saint-James) and mixologist Remy Sauvage (L’Artésian in London) have composed a menu of cold plates and chilly cocktails that are perfect for those hot summer evenings when you don’t want to eat too… Read More »Fabula
Les Petites Mains is an ephemeral restaurant in the courtyard of the Palais Galliera fashion museum. It’s a beautiful place to take in the architecture of the building and view the Eiffel Tower from afar. However, when we visited, it was an absolute circus. There weren’t enough servers, and the staff they had were all brand-new (despite already being open for weeks). Drinks were requested once and then again and then again. There was a one-hour delay after our first… Read More »Les Petites Mains
La Bete Noire is a sweet spot for breakfast and lunch at the southern tip of the Luxembourg Gardens. On a recent visit for weekend brunch, we were crazy about all the savory dishes and a little ho-hum about the pastries for which they’re known. Service on the weekends can be glacially slow, but it’s friendly. Don’t go if you’re in a rush. We love that they always have a good meatless option for every course and have recommended them… Read More »La Bete Noire
La Rotisserie d’Argent is a classic French bistro serving what might be the best roast chicken in Paris. Located next to the Seine, with outdoor tables overlooking the river, this is a centrally located and crowd-pleasing spot for classics like steak frites, duck confit, steak tartare, and kidneys in mustard sauce (vegetarians should steer clear). There’s a good wine list, as you’d expect from the team behind La Tour d’Argent, and they’re open every day. LA ROTISSERIE D’ARGENT 19 Quai… Read More »La Rotisserie d’Argent
Verjus is a restaurant near the Louvre that offers one of our favorite tasting menus in Paris. It’s the creation of an American couple, Braden Perkins and Laura Adrian, who opened this light and airy restaurant back in 2011. After being closed for several years (the pandemic + a renovation of their exhaust system), Verjus reopened on May 9. The lengthy closure gave them time to test new dishes at Twenty-Two Club, a supper club in a spectacular private residence… Read More »Verjus
The Palais Royal Restaurant is tucked into the northeast corner of the Palais Royal gardens near the Louvre. The interior looks like a hotel restaurant (it is), and doesn’t hold much charm. During the summer months, however, white linen tables are set up outside under the same lovely arcades that hosted Paris’ first restaurants (and prostitution) centuries ago. It seems like an amazing place to have a meal on a summer night. When I arrived for my dinner in late… Read More »Palais Royal Restaurant
Le CasseNoix is a neighborhood bistro just south of the Eiffel Tower in the 15th arrondissement. Chef Olivier Lenormand won the competition for best junior pastry chef in France at age 17, and worked for many years under Bruno Doucet at La Régalade. Like his mentor, he begins each meal by giving away something delicious – in this case a small crock of chicken liver mousse. His menu succeeds when he sticks to classic French dishes – a ballontine of rabbit… Read More »Le CasseNoix
Le Maquis is a small French restaurant located on the far side of Montmartre boasting small portions of impeccable, contemporary bistro fare and a small, all-natural wine list. A slight Italian leaning pervades the menu, which also includes more classic French dishes. Lunch is a steal at 16-euro for two courses and 18 for three.
Caluche is an all-day café and wine bar that serves fresh bistro fare in the Latin Quarter. This little gem is run by a former owner and server from the Café de la Nouvelle Mairie. The latter is renowned as a destination for natural wine lovers, and that crowd will be happy with this new venture. They’ll be even happier with the food – it’s phenomenally better at Caluche. Beyond the expected small-plate nibbles (olives, dried sausage), I loved their… Read More »Caluche
This new restaurant from the owner of Le Cornichon occupies prime Latin Quarter real estate with an outdoor terrace looking onto the gardens of the Cluny museum and the vestige of an 8th century convent. It’s a quiet street where you can hear birdsong, and a welcome respite from the tourist bustle near Notre-Dame. I’d be happy to eat a simple sandwich on this terrace, but Maison Cluny offers so much more. For starters, they have what might be the… Read More »Maison Cluny
Le Mazenay is a modest bistro that’s serving classic French food with subtle Vietnamese accents. The restaurant is named after the village in Burgundy where chef Denis Groison was born, and the wine list reflects his ties to this region. But Groison grew up to travel the world, cooking in Singapore and Hanoi, and marrying a Vietnamese woman named Lan who very expertly oversees the dining room of their mom and pop restaurant in the Marais. He makes simple and… Read More »Le Mazenay
Le Duc is an institution and one of the best places in Paris to enjoy seafood. The interior, with its gleaming wood-paneled walls evoking a yacht’s interior, is truly one of a kind. Wes Anderson is rumored to be a regular customer, and that makes a lot of sense. Sole meunière is the thing to order here – the fish is presented whole before being filleted and plated table-side (most of the servers used to work as fishermen). Oysters are… Read More »Le Duc
Bofinger is a beautiful old brasserie in the Marais that serves Alsatian dishes like choucroute and flammekueche. A lot of people have special memories tied to Bofinger, and I don’t want to talk them out of their attachments. But Bofinger (pronounced bo-fan-zhay) is not a destination for food lovers. The space is enormous, which makes it easy to get in without a reservation at the last minute. But their size is the restaurant’s downfall. It’s hard to flag a server… Read More »Bofinger
Elmer is a modern bistro In the northern Marais, not far from République. Chef Simon Horwitz (ex-Septime, Pierre Gagnaire) bases his ever-changing menus around impeccable seasonal ingredients and has an affinity for large portions intended to be shared by two or more diners. I recently returned for a solo lunch and was blown away by how good (and sneakily healthy) everything was. Delicious line caught cod was barely napped by sauce matelote and served with charred white asparagus and broccoli.… Read More »Elmer
Le Saint-Sébastien is known for its handmade charcuterie, vegetable-driven (but not vegetarian) cooking, and desserts with a savory spin. The 400-reference-strong wine list and impeccable service make this neighborhood restaurant one worth crossing the city for. Now helmed by chef Christopher Edwards, the menu features plenty of peak-season produce, line-caught fish and an incredible selection of white wine and craft beer for sipping on the sidewalk terrace. Recommended for Great Vegetarian Food in Paris. Le Saint-Sebastién has been included our favorite… Read More »Le Saint-Sébastien
After working for Pascal Barbot at Astrance, Adeline Grattard opened yam’Tcha in 2009 in a tiny space in Les Halles. Combining influences and ingredients from Hong Kong with her French training, and offering tea pairings by Chi Wah Chan, yam’Tcha become a major sensation. A Michelin star followed, along with an episode of (the Netflix show) Chef’s Table. Yam’Tcha was, for a time, the hardest table to book in Paris. The hype has (somewhat) abated, and it’s now possible to… Read More »yam’Tcha
Frenchie is the original outpost from Gregory Marchand, a chef who trained with Jamie Oliver in the UK and Danny Meyer in the USA. They hold one Michelin star and serve a no-choice tasting menu with five courses for 140€. The optional wine pairings are usually excellent. Frenchie opened in 2009 and has been a very tough reservation since at least 2010. Reservations open three weeks before a given date (Mon-Fri) and all tables are usually booked within a few… Read More »Frenchie
Chef Sota Atsumi, who made his name at Clown Bar, is now making magic at Maison. He still occasionally recreates the pithiviers (the dish pictured above) that made him famous, but that’s not why you should go to Maison. Go for a long lunch – Sunday lunch if you can swing it – and spend a few gorgeous hours relaxing in the sunlit room, smelling the woodsmoke and delighting in his incredibly thoughtful tasting menu. We prefer lunch to dinner and… Read More »Maison
Since Le Chateaubriand opened in 2006, we’ve watched it transform the city’s dining scene and seen it rise and fall in the World’s 50 Best rankings. We returned recently and were delighted to find that it’s still one of our top picks for a casual (not fine dining) tasting menu in Paris. We recommend it for diners who are on the more adventurous side – those who enjoy natural wine and an unfussy, frenetic dining room. Le Chateaubriand may no longer have the… Read More »Le Chateaubriand
I never got the chance to go to Astrance when it first opened on a sleepy street in the 16th, quietly hustling without the weight of so many Michelin stars. But I imagine it must have felt a lot like dining at Alliance. What the two restaurants have in common is the partnership of an exceptionally talented chef (Toshitaka Omiya) with a masterful and welcoming mâitre d’hôtel (Shawn Joyeux). The service experience is always important, but it carries extra weight… Read More »Alliance
This restaurant has gone through plenty of changes since James Henry and the letter B departed (it used to be called Bones), but Jones is currently having a moment. Owner Florent Ciccoli recently partnered with longtime Jones sommelier Damien Lacour and the talented Abbruzzese chef Riccardo Ferrante, sparking a renaissance at this storied address. The dining room is now packed, with (mostly) locals flocking to taste Ferrante’s small plates and pastas. They’re also there to drink from Lacour’s “long wine list that… Read More »Jones
Datsha Underground is a modern and creative spot in the Marais that’s really more scene than restaurant. It feels like it has been designed for a fashion week clientele, right down to the vegan and vegetarian options and the (not really) “hidden” cocktail bar Spootnik in the basement.
I really wanted to like this shoebox sized restaurant in the Marais. They seem sincere, but my single visit was a disaster. Their server couldn’t handle the small number of tables crammed between the stone walls. We spent an excruciatingly long time without anything to drink and between every course. The Japanese inflected dishes, when they arrived, were either confused or forgettable. I brought a friend for her one big meal in Paris and felt so sorry afterwards. ILÔ 6… Read More »Ilô
Grande Brasserie has a lot of things going for it. The vintage décor, in the space that used to be Le Petit Bofinger, is gorgeous. Light streams in through the large windows, and the walls are adorned beautiful old murals and posters. Owner Adrien Spanu has a lot of restaurant friends who helped him put together one of the best wine lists in Paris (hint: it looks a lot like the ones you’ll find at Semilla and Fish). It’s centrally… Read More »Grande Brasserie
The Bistrot des Tournelles opened in 2022 and was named “Best Bistro of 2023” by Le Fooding. They’re not the only ones who raved – I know plenty of people who loved their experience here. I found it to be pretty good, but certainly not the best of the year. Classic desserts like crème brûlée, tarte Tatin and chocolate mousse were delicious. Salmon gravlax and oeufs mayo starters were “correct” and tasty. Two dishes were downright bad – the croque… Read More »Bistrot des Tournelles
Le Bistrot Flaubert is a modern bistro from Stéphane Manigold, the restaurateur behind Substance and Contraste. It came to our attention when chef Flavio Lucarini (ex-Passerini) arrived to helm this kitchen. We loved it so much that we included it among our 50 Favorite Restaurants in Paris. Manigold will be opening a new restaurant called Hémicycle in late August 2023 with Luccarini as head chef. What will this mean for Le Bistrot Flaubert? Honestly, we don’t know.
Robert is a small restaurant in the 11th that has had multiple chefs since opening in 2018. Following Peter Orr and Daniel Morgan, Jack Bosco is now running the kitchen and serving a menu that’s much more focused on meat and fish than his predecessor. The produce is still sourced from the restaurant’s own gardens in the Loire valley, but Robert is no longer a “haven for vegetarians,” as we described it when Daniel Morgan was the chef. Robert is not included… Read More »Robert restaurant
This small and charming restaurant in the 11th is a great stop for lunch after exploring the nearby Marché Aligre. So many people agree that you’ll need to book a month six weeks in advance. It’s been seven years since Omar Koreitem and Moko Hirayama opened Mokonuts, and they only recently started accepting reservations. Book a table and delight in their dishes that seamlessly blend influences from France, Koreitem’s native Lebanon and Hirayama’s native Japan. If you can’t get a reservation, go… Read More »Mokonuts
Chef Antoine Westermann ran the three-star Alsatian restaurant Le Buerehiesel for nearly four decades before asking the Michelin Guide to remove them in 2007. Five years later, he opened Le Coq Rico at this location in Montmartre – a restaurant dedicated to serving well-raised heritage chickens (and other poultry). He found a partner to expand in New York, that partner kicked him out of the company, and he returned to rename this Montmartre location Le Coq et Fils. Backstory aside, this is… Read More »Le Coq et Fils
Mokoloco is the second address from Omar Koreitem and Moko Hirayama who run the nearby restaurant Mokonuts. Mokoloco is a kitchen where visiting chefs are invited to shine. Some stay for a short residency, and some stick around for upwards of nine months. Some use this as a launch pad before opening their own place, like Erica Paredes who later opened Reyna. The style of cuisine depends on who’s cooking, but you can expect it to be anything but French.… Read More »Mokoloco
Aléa is new restaurant, tucked into the sweet and sedate backside of the Montmartre hill, that’s run by a young couple. It feels personal. Chef Léa Lestage, who previously worked at the three-star Epicure, is serving a market-driven menu at night with 3-4 options per course (starters 11-16€, mains 24-26€). When I went, that included the best duck dish I’ve had in years – a canard de Challans served with an indulgent potato millefeuille and a fig poached in red wine… Read More »aléa
David Toutain, who brought acclaim to Agapé Substance before jumping ship back in December 2012, returned to the Paris scene with this signature restaurant in 2013. His meticulous and conceptual cooking highlights seasonal produce, with vegetables often playing the starring role. This is by no means a vegetarian restaurant, but Toutain’s ability to bring out the beauty in oft-ignored roots reminds us of his former boss Alain Passard.
Clamato is a seafood-focused small plates restaurant from Bertrand Grébaut of Septime. Expect pristine marinated fish, platters of oysters, silky crab fritters (accrabes), and maple syrup pie for dessert. Wines are natural and well-selected, just like at Septime.
Acte II is a restaurant in the Marais from chef Masahide Ikuta. It pains me to say that I don’t recommend this restaurant, because it has one of the most beautiful views I’ve ever seen. When I came out of the elevator (you have to hunt and find one to reach this rooftop restaurant) I actually gasped to see the sun setting over the gorgeously glowing buildings of the Marais. However, the food is a muddled mess.
An all-day cafe in Sentier from Charles Compagnon, the serial restauranteur behind Le Richer and 52 Faubourg Saint-Denis. Café Compagnon is open early for breakfast and coffee and stays open until 11pm. A great place to pop in for a bite when strolling around the rue Montorgeuil, and one of the only Compagnon spots that accepts reservations. CAFÉ COMPAGNON 22-26 Rue Léopold Bellan, 75002 Open Monday-Friday from 8am-11pmOpen Saturday & Sunday from 9am-11pmReservations online or at +33 9 77 09 62 24… Read More »Café Compagnon
A bare bones room lined with shelves of natural wines, a tiny kitchen turning out simple and dishes; this doesn’t immediately feel like the kind of place a person would cross town for. And yet many do. Booking is imperative.
Treize au Jardin is a gorgeous spot for brunch, afternoon tea and cake, or early evening cocktails on a sun-dappled terrace across from the Luxembourg Gardens. Laurel Sanderson and Kajsa von Sydow made their name with brunch and desserts, but are now serving an expanded menu that includes fantastic salads and adult beverages to match their later opening hours. You can catch some rays on the outdoor terrace and bring home a bunch of flowers or a stack of brownies.… Read More »Treize au Jardin
Chef Amandine Chaignot has been a judge on the French show MasterChef for the better part of a decade. At her restaurant Pouliche, she puts out pretty plates for an Instagram crowd in a dining room that could be ripped from the pages of a West Elm catalog. The menu is heavy with vegetarian options – Wednesday is entirely vegetarian – and the space is filled with pretty young things. Portions are tiny. Read our full review of Pouliche. 11 Rue d’Enghien,… Read More »Pouliche
Jeanne-Aimée is a polished restaurant in a sleepy corner of the 9th arrondissement. Chef Sylvain Parisot bases his menu around impeccable seasonal produce, with creative and delicious results. Service is thoughtful and the room is well-designed. Nothing feels particularly inventive or cool, but this is a nice place to go when you want to focus on the person across the table – especially on a Monday night. We’ve included Jeanne-Aimé among our 50 favorite restaurants in Paris. JEANNE-AIMÉE 3 Rue… Read More »Jeanne-Aimée
Carboni’s is an Italian restaurant in the Marais that replaced Carbón, in the same space and from that same team. Their change of concept followed a fire and a pandemic, and has drawn a particularly Parisian crowd who seem not to know that this is not Amatriciana. Dishes like the giant veal chop are highly Instagrammable, and most taste pretty good. I particularly liked my starter of artichokes with bottarga. They’re a good option for groups, especially ones that include… Read More »Carboni’s
There are so many casual wine bars serving good food in eastern Paris. Bouche stands out from the crowd because they’re a little more spacious, their staff is a smidge more friendly, and the dishes are a lot more interesting. It’s a wine bar in the 11th for people who are no longer in their twenties (like me). Open Sunday! We included Bouche among our 50 Favorite Restaurants in 2022. BOUCHE 85 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011Open Wednesday-Saturday for dinner onlyOpen… Read More »Bouche
Breizh Café is by far our favorite crêperie in Paris. Traditionalists like me, who always order a complète (ham, cheese, egg), appreciate the higher quality organic ingredients and the crispy lacy edges of their buckwheat galettes. More adventurous hunters can look to the daily and seasonal specials to top their galettes with upgrades like sea scallops and smoked duck breast. Dessert crêpes offer a few Japanese touches like ginger and yuzu alongside classic constructions with apples and ice cream. You can begin… Read More »Breizh Café Marais
Le Collier de la Reine is a a trendy new spot for seafood in the northern Marais. Go for the oysters, fries and people watching. You might be tempted to stray from the seafood platter and order one of the cooked dishes. Don’t do it. Stick with the oysters, langoustines and other briny options, and be sure to order at least one side of fries – they might be the best in Paris. LE COLLIER DE LA REINE 57 Rue… Read More »Le Collier de la Reine
Ellsworth has had many different iterations since it opened, but all have been delicious. Their most popular dish from the early days – the fried chicken – remains on the menu in small plate size among a changing roster of seasonal dishes. Braden Perkins and Laura Adrian, the duo behind (temporarily closed) Verjus, are raising most of the vegetables and eggs for Ellsworth at their farm outside of Paris, and chef Hanz Gueco is doing incredible things with these fresh… Read More »Ellsworth
When you arrive in Paris you’ll need to convert your foreign vaccination card into a French health pass if you want to visit restaurants, museums and other attractions. Here’s how to do it.
Auberge Nicolas Flamel is a modernist restaurant situated in one of the oldest buildings (1407) in the Marais. Helmed by chef Grégory Garimbay, who previously worked for Alain Ducasse, it currently holds one Michelin star and offers tasting menus priced at 128€ and 145€ and 178€.
La Fontaine de Mars is a southwestern French bistro near the Eiffel Tower that got a lot of recognition when the Obamas visited during his presidency. It’s a good spot to try classic French dishes, but certain dishes like the cassoulet seem to have gone downhill over the years. They have a charming outdoor terrace in front of the fountain that gives this restaurant its name. LA FONTAINE DE MARS 129 rue Saint-Dominique, 75007Open every day for lunch and dinnerReservations… Read More »La Fontaine de Mars
Guy Savoy is a fine dining restaurant inside the Monnaie (Mint) de Paris in Saint-Germain. It holds three Michelin stars, and was once once included among the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. I’ve been to Guy Savoy three times, and the only time I was impressed was the first. It was 2010, and I was the guest of a woman who routinely accepts freebies in exchange for crowing about the restaurants online (I was unaware of this at the time). I… Read More »Guy Savoy
Loulou is a restaurant based inside the Musée des Arts Décoratifs (part of the Louvre) with outdoor seating that looks upon the architecture of that building, the Tuileries garden, and the Eiffel Tower just beyond. The Italian menu includes dishes that are surprisingly good (artichoke salad, small pizzas) and others that are merely passable (veal chop à la Milanese). But the food isn’t why you come to Loulou. Come to drink rosé or on one of the loveliest terraces in… Read More »Loulou
A beautiful and expansive outdoor terrace tucked inside a hidden courtyard in the Marais, this is the Paris address of Mauro Colagreco, whose restaurant Mirazur was rated as the World’s Best in 2022. GrandCoeur offers a Mediterranean menu full of fresh fish, with a few vegetarian & carnivorous options. It’s open every day and is a good option for larger groups. Included among our 50 Favorite Restaurants in Paris. GRANDCOEUR 41 Rue du Temple, 75004Open every day for lunch and dinnerReservations… Read More »GrandCoeur
FIEF is a sleek and modern restaurant in the 11th with a Top Chef finalist in the kitchen. Victor Mercier’s menu contains beautiful options for vegetarians, like an artichoke tartlet with black garlic paste and smoked pepper juice, but the fish and meat dishes are crazy good: fresh fish with carrots and spider crab caramel, or chicken with roasted and fermented cabbage and choron sauce. The name FIEF stands for Fait Ici En France (made here in France) and the… Read More »FIEF
Dupin is a great addition to this southern corner of Saint-Germain, just down the street from Le Bon Marché. Vegetables and seasonal products are at the heart of chef Nathan Helo’s cooking, even when his dishes include perfectly-cooked pork or seafood. Recommended for Great Vegetarian Food in Paris. DUPIN 11 Rue Dupin, 75006Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinner (closed Sunday & Monday)Reservations online or at +33 1 42 22 64 56 OUR PHOTOS OF DUPIN SUBSCRIBE TO OUR NEWSLETTER
Macéo is a light and airy restaurant near the Palais Royal from Mark Williamson (Willi’s Wine Bar), serving creative dishes with plenty of vegetarian options. It’s a good place to book for large groups, and for dinner on Monday. The wine list is incredible. Open Saturday, open Monday, good for groups, vegetarian friendly, near the Louvre, excellent wine 15 rue des Petits-Champs, 75001Open Monday-Friday for lunch & dinnerOpen Saturday for dinner onlyClosed SundayReservations online or at +33 1 42 97… Read More »Macéo
This popular restaurant and wine bar run by Drew Harre and Juan Sanchez is a sort of Anglo haven, excellent for a quick glass, a solo dinner at the bar, or for those times when you’re just tired of speaking French. The wine list at Fish la Boissonnerie is populated by small producers, many of them organic and bio-dynamic, with fair prices and plenty of options by the glass. They’re open every day, and we often find ourselves here on… Read More »Fish la Boissonnerie
Vaccinated Americans, Canadians, and Brits are allowed into France from June 9 with a PCR or antigen test. Unvaccinated travelers from these countries have to jump through a lot of hoops. Australians, New Zealanders and other travelers from “green” countries with very low COVID rates face no restrictions in entering France or crossing EU borders.
Tatiana Levha, formerly at L’Arpège and L’Astrance, and her sister Katia opened this light, airy bistro with a central bar & hand painted ceiling. The short list of offerings changes each day, but expect seasonally driven cuisine inflected with international touches like tandoori spiced beurre blanc atop asparagus or harissa to spice up the line caught hake. Dessert left room for improvement, but otherwise Le Servan had reasonably priced, expertly executed dishes and friendly service in a beautiful space.
Hugo and Co is the second Paris restaurant from chef Tomy Gousset, who we first encountered and loved at Tomy & Co. In contrast to the latter, which is now Michelin-starred and more formal, Hugo & Co is the more playful (and affordable) little brother. I love to come here with our vegetarian friends, who always find a huge number of options, but I’ve also swooned over a Croque Monsieur with thick cut ham, oozing Comté cheese, and black truffle.… Read More »Hugo and Co
Chez Michel has reinvented itself many times within the bistro tradition. Founder Thierry Breton has passed the reins to chef Masahiro Kawai, who carries the torch for traditional dishes like Kig Ha Farz while creating his own instant-classics, like this spin on bouillabaisse. The atmosphere is homey with wood timbered ceilings and the wine list remains impressive. Leave room for desserts like Paris-Brest and Poire Belle Hélène (who else makes that anymore?). CHEZ MICHEL 10 Rue de Belzunce, 75010 Open Monday-Friday… Read More »Chez Michel
L’Ami Louis is one of the most atmospheric restaurants in Paris. It’s dark and dramatic, with white jacketed servers bringing overflowing plates of snails, foie gras, and other classic French dishes. The roast chicken, with its accompanying tower of shoestring fries, is as good as everyone says it is. But L’Ami Louis is also one of the most clubby restaurants in Paris. It’s filled with regulars, it’s hard to get a table, and the prices are high enough to scare most tourists away. That’s probably by design. If you need to ask how much the roast chicken costs (it inches closer to 100 euros every year), then L’Ami Louis is probably not for you. It remains one of our favorite places in Paris, when someone else has gone to the trouble to book and ideally when someone else is paying.
Restaurant A.T. is the project of Japanese chef Atsushi Tanaka, who serves a technicolor tasting menu in a minimalist dining room. My first visit in 2015 prompted disdain. The dishes seemed to be designed for the early days of Instagram, and didn’t have much depth beyond their pretty looks. Two different tables at dinner contained foreigners watching movies on their iPads. Whatever this place was, I wanted no part of it. Still, I gave A.T. another shot, returning for lunch… Read More »Restaurant A.T.
At this beautiful restaurant in the underserved district just north of Les Halles, serious technique is brought to bear on beautiful veggies and offal alike. The consistently delicious dishes, the polished room and the very good wine list all add up to something that’s much greater than the bargain prices should allow. There’s a prix fixe at lunch for only 15€, and diners can go à la carte at lunch or dinner for 36€. Chef Tomy Gousset departed in 2016 to open Tomy & Co, but Pirouette remains a solid bet.
In 2016, the team from Saturne took over a historic bar near the Cirque d’Hiver and installed chef Sota Atsumi (ex-Vivant) in the kitchen. Atsumi’s dishes dominated Instagram for a solid two years, and Clown Bar became one of the town’s most difficult reservations to snag. The Saturne team (and restaurant) has since dissolved amid rumors of wine theft and partner animosity. Atsumi has moved on to open Maison. Clown Bar remains open, and Atsumi’s iconic creations, including the brain and… Read More »Clown Bar
Address: 1 bis passage de Saint Sébastien, 75011Hours: Open Monday-Saturday for dinner. Closed Sunday.Telephone: +33 1 43 55 07 52Book Online / Website / Facebook / Instagram Our Most Recent Visit It’s so nice when a restaurant delivers more than they need to, more than you expect to receive. When looking at a chalkboard menu filled with cheap small plates, one rarely hopes for anything more than simple products. But here at Au Passage, your 8€ octopus dish has undergone three days of preparation. There’s a quiet… Read More »Au Passage
Le Clarence is a fine dining restaurant in a private Paris mansion near the Champs-Élysées. It opened in 2017 and holds two Michelin stars. In 2022, it ranks #28 on the World’s Best Restaurants list. The luxurious space is owned by Prince Robert of Luxembourg and was decorated to evoke the Château Haut-Brion in Bordeaux, which he also owns. It’s gorgeous. LE CLARENCE 31 Avenue Franklin Delano Roosevelt, 75008Open Wednesday-Saturday for lunch & dinnerOpen Tuesday for dinner onlyClosed Sunday &… Read More »Le Clarence
A scenester address with decent seafood and an incredible view of the Eiffel Tower. Service is slack, it’s nearly impossible to book, and it’s expensive. If you’re somehow able to get a reservation (these are rarely available online and they almost never answer the phone) go for the view and not the food.
La Poule au Pot is chef Jean-François Piège’s revival of a classic Les Halles institution. The menu is full of classic French dishes like frog’s legs, merlan frit colbert, and clafoutis. It’s a pricey affair, but a good option to keep in mind near the Louvre, especially on Saturday when many spots for classic French are closed. LA POULE AU POT 9 Rue Vauvilliers, 75001Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinnerClosed Sunday & MondayReservations online or at +33 1 42 36… Read More »La Poule au Pot
At the impossibly young age of 24, Arnaud Nicolas achieved one of the highest honors in gastronomy – the title Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF) – for his talent in charcuterie. Fourteen years later, he opened an ambitious shop and restaurant near the Eiffel Tower with the explicit goal of returning charcuterie to a place of honor on the French table. In the same way that prize-winning artisans have reshaped traditional baguette-making and pâtisserie, Nicolas wants to reintroduce charcuterie to palates that have become used to mediocre industrialized examples. So is it really that different? Yes.
With its worn wooden tables, intricately painted ceilings, and charcuterie slicer propped on the marble counter, L’Assiette has the precise look of a dream Paris bistro. It also serves many of the classic dishes, like escargots and cassoulet, which have mostly disappeared from the city’s restaurants. The far-flung location in the 14th arrondissement, near the Catacombs but far from the center, has probably helped L’Assiette to stay off the tourist radar. Chef David Rathgeber and his team are friendly with visitors but don’t cater to them. The customers who come to indulge in this hearty fare are mostly local, which makes this a great option for tourists looking to avoid their own countrymen.
Le Villaret is one of our favorite Classic Bistros in Paris. Sometimes in life we chase after the ones who play hard-to-get and we ignore the nice, stable options who just want to treat us right. Le Villaret is the homely neighborhood bistro that I never appreciated until I stopped looking for love at Le Baratin and Le Repaire de Cartouche.
Food and wine pilgrims, particularly those who read the New York Times or watch Anthony Bourdain, are willing to climb the hill for this Belleville institution. Raquel Carena tends the fire, offering her own personal brand of bistro cooking – sometimes delicate, sometimes hearty, always heartfelt. In stark contrast to the loving kitchen, the dining room is cold as ice, thanks to the joyless leadership of Carena’s husband Philippe.
Le Repaire de Cartouche is a great place to sit at the bar without reservations, order wine with a slab of terrine, and wait for your table to open up at Au Passage. It’s still great fun as a wine bar, even if it can no longer deliver as a restaurant.
At Café Méricourt, the interior is light and airy, the staff is among the friendliest in Paris, the loaves arrive daily from Ten Belles Bread, and the coffee, with beans sourced from an array of quality roasters, is reliably great. The food menu leans heavily vegetarian, with tasty options like shakshuka, green eggs and feta, or a daily green bowl. Their famous breakfast sandwich can be topped with bacon or avocado. Carnivores can tear into a delicious focaccia sandwich with… Read More »Café Méricourt
Address: 7 rue d’Aguesseau, 75008Hours: Open Monday-Friday for lunch & dinner. Closed Saturday & Sunday.Telephone: +33 1 53 05 00 00Book Online / Website / Instagram Le Grand Restaurant in Photos In Other Words Le Figaro (2015) “Le plat à ne pas laisser filer: homard bleu de Bretagne en feuille de figuier, mûres épicées, foie gras au poivre sauvage, pur instant de mijoté réinventé.” Simon Says (2015) “En fait, si l’on a bien compris, Jean François Piège semble vouloir siffler la… Read More »Le Grand Restaurant
Where can you find a great baguette in Paris? Below we’ve listed and mapped the bakeries who have placed among the top ten winners in the city’s annual competition to determine La Meilleure Baguette de Paris. Look for the bakery that’s nearest to you, or focus your efforts on those who have finished first – we’ve indicated the Grand Prix winners with a heart.Read More »Where to Find the Best Baguettes in Paris
An offshoot of one our absolute favorites L’Office, you can stop by this former corner café at all hours of the day and night (sans reservation) for snacks, small plates, decent coffee, cocktails, or an evening meal.
After L’Office and Le Richer (one of our favorite new openings of 2013), Charles Compagnon is back with another gift for the Faubourg. If he has run out of ideas for restaurant names, the same cannot be said for the dishes coming out of his kitchen. The compact menu with 3-4 choices per course contains plenty that we want to eat: well-roasted duck with coco beans, corn and kale, and an egg yolk ravioli with ham and mushrooms that was satisfyingly reminiscent of one of… Read More »52 Faubourg Saint Denis
Freddy’s is a great call when you want to share some delicious nibbles and great wine while perched on a stool, especially at odd hours or on Sunday and Monday when many other places are closed.
Mensae is a contemporary French bistro not far from the sprawling Buttes-Chaumont park. Classics like frogs’ legs and steak tartare are frequently featured on the ever-changing menu, revisited with a contemporary bent and more reasonable portion size than the behemoths found in other restaurants. Don’t miss the chocolate mousse for dessert.
Haven’t sorted out your Thanksgiving holiday plans yet? No need to freak out. We’ve rounded up a few resources to help our American readers, as well as any locals who’ll be sharing the table this year.
Between September-December 2014, we anonymously tested all nine of the Paris restaurants that hold three Michelin stars, along with seven others that are considered to be shining examples of haute cuisine. In total, we spent €7150 in tasting 200 individual compositions during more than 65 hours at the table. You can learn more about how and why we did this by reading Behind the Curtain: Examining Haute Cuisine in Paris. Here are the articles that have come out of this: HAUTE FOOD PORN If you simply want… Read More »Special Report on Haute Cuisine
More than 100 years ago, a tire company named Michelin began telling people about their best options for eating while motoring around the country. Travelers wanted to know what was worth a detour or a special journey, and that’s still the case today. The question I’m most frequently asked by our readers is where to go for a special blow-out meal. You want to celebrate a birthday, an anniversary, a victory. You want to seal a deal, whether business or pleasure. You’re willing to drop some cash, but you don’t want to feel like a fool.
Until now, I’ve had a hard time answering this question. I know well the landscape of the city’s classic bistros, modern French restaurants, and food-loving wine bars, but this class of two- and three-star tables is a different terrain entirely. There’s an obvious barrier to understanding these restaurants: the staggering, outrageous, almost immoral price of a meal. Prior to this project, in which I anonymously tested every three-star restaurant in Paris over a period of twelve weeks, I had only visited a handful.Read More »Behind the Curtain: Examining Haute Cuisine in Paris
This historic three-star restaurant is perched in a pavilion just off the Champs-Elysées and has been a dining destination since the French Revolution. Long-time chef Christian Le Squer handed the reigns to Yannick Alleno in July 2014, and Alleno has promised a renewed focus on what he considers to be the great strength of French cuisine – sauces.
Many powerful names/brands have come together for this long-awaited opening inside the Passage des Panoramas. The Alajmo family (of the three-starred Le Calendre in Padua) have partnered with David Lanher (Racines, Vivant) to convert an engraving shop into an Italian restaurant. They had some help from designer Philippe Starck, but thankfully not too much. The historically protected space – a series of dimly glowing rooms that date back to the 16th century – is stunning. Read More »Caffè Stern
The real specialty at this classic, luxe shop is Armagnac, with vintages dating back to 1868. Don’t know the first thing about Armagnac? Just ask, and one of the friendly staff will pour you a taste. The back room houses an impressive collection of first growth Bordeaux (Margaux, Latour) and Chateau d’Yquem, and R-D bottles their own lines of port and Scotch, too.
Terroir-driven, estate-bottled, organic and biodynamic wines from small producers are the specialty at this beloved shop, run for almost 20 years by Juan Sanchez. Especially strong in their selection of growers’ Champagnes and bottles from the Rhone Valley. Stop by on Saturdays for their free tastings with winemakers from 11am-7:30pm. Check our calendar of Paris food & wine events to find out which winemakers they’ll be hosting this week.
Le Meurice is a Michelin two-star restaurant headed by Alain Ducasse and run by executive chef Amaury Bouhours. Currently, the main attraction is pastry chef Cédric Grolet and his stunning desserts. The other star is the opulent room itself, designed by Philippe Stark and inspired by Versailles. At the time of my visit in 2014, Le Meurice held three Michelin stars and offered a relatively inexpensive lunch service (2 courses for 85€ or the whole lunch menu for 130€). While… Read More »Le Meurice
Pierre Gagnaire is a Michelin three-star restaurant that has also spent many years on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Gagnaire is considered a pioneer in molecular gastronomy and collaborated with chemist Hervé This in early explorations of synthetic cuisine – creating new forms and textures using tartaric acid, glucose, and polyphenols, and so on. In contrast to the ebullient food, the dining room at Gagnaire has always been icy and formal. Dining here – at least during my two… Read More »Pierre Gagnaire
I once sat across from Owen Wilson at a communal table at Bob’s Juice Bar. He seemed happy with his veggie bowl, and you probably will be, too. This is the original Paris outpost from Marc Grossman selling healthy salads, bowls, smoothies, and other vegetarian delights. Open Monday, open Saturday, good for breakfast, cheap eats, vegetarian friendly, gluten free options, vegan options 15 rue Lucien Sampaix, 75010Open for breakfast & lunch Monday-SaturdayClosed Sunday OUR PHOTOS OF BOB’S JUICE BAR IN… Read More »Bob’s Juice Bar
Even if I can never afford to return, I’m so happy that L’Ambroisie exists. While many of his peers are shifting their focus to more modest ingredients, Bernard Pacaud is still laying on the caviar. While service elsewhere has become increasingly solicitous, L’Ambroisie remains a model of aristocratic snobbery. I’ll be sad the day their sumptuous dining rooms close for good, and will treasure the memory of a meal I only partially enjoyed in the moment because I was mostly holding my breath. I reviewed L’Ambroisie as part… Read More »L’Ambroisie
Epicure is a fine dining restaurant inside Le Bristol hotel. It’s led by chef Éric Fréchon and currently holds three Michelin stars. Chef Éric Fréchon has a lot of fans, so I was expecting something great when I visited in 2014. The cooking, while enjoyable, didn’t offer anything new. The setting lacked soul. It occupies a very similar niche to Le Cinq but didn’t measure up. Fréchon’s cuisine plays it a little too safe for my taste. A dish of raw… Read More »Epicure
For the second year in a row, the winner of the Best Baguette in Paris competition comes from the 14th arrondissement. Congratulations to Antonio Teixeira from the Délices du Palais for placing first in the annual Grand Prix de la Baguette de Tradition Française de la Ville de Paris!
In case you missed his much-discussed lament in the New York Times, Thomas Chatterton Williams is upset that Hipsters Ruined Paris. More specifically, he’s annoyed by the proliferation of “burrata salad” at the expense of hostess bars in South Pigalle. He warns us against the anesthetizing effects of steel-cut oats and worries that there isn’t room for both kale and human trafficking in the neighborhood to which he moved two years ago. From Brooklyn, of course.
After working for Ducasse for seven years, Kei Kobayashi has opened an eponymous restaurant in the old Gerard Besson space, offering four or five courses at lunch (38/48€) and six or eight (75/95€) at dinner.
It’s truffle season in Paris, and the knobby tubers are turning up on restaurant menus all over town. Many people, however, don’t know their Alba from their elbow, and can’t understand why a kilo of fungus might sell for thousands of euros. Are are some basics, with a little help from truffle maven Patricia Wells.
Gail Simmons recently returned to Paris for the first time in a decade and (helped in part by your Twitter suggestions) ate her way through the city. She named the sweetbreads at Spring and Frenchie’s cod with smoked eggplant as two of her favorite Paris tastes. But what else did she put in her mouth?
Meg Zimbeck is the founder and Editor-in-Chief of Paris by Mouth. Beyond the content on this site, she writes about food in Paris for the Wall Street Journal. In the past, she has served as the Paris editor for both Budget Travel and BlackBook and has contributed to Food & Wine, SAVEUR, AFAR, Gridskipper, the BBC’s Olive magazine, and the seat-pocket magazines of United, Virgin Trains, and Gulf Air. She also hosted a program on Paris Street Eats for the Travel Channel (USA). Meg’s food photography has been… Read More »Meg Zimbeck