La Bourse et La Vie

This dining room of this small restaurant near the former stock exchange is compact and cozy, complete with all the markers of a comforting old bistro. Daniel Rose (ex-Spring and Le Coucou) has assembled and electrified a roster of extremely classic French dishes (pot au feu, duck à l'orange, pocheuse) that are hard to find at all anymore, much less done this well. More common dishes like steak-frites, foie gras and poireaux vinaigrette are exceptionally delicious here. It's not cheap, but it delivers.