Sommelier-turned-restaurateur Thierry Bruneau’s versatile and tasteful neighborhood wine bar is a cherished mainstay of the Aligre neighborhood. It’s got a long, lively bar for solo diners, a bevy of small tables for couples and small groups, and a rear room that can be privatized for minor occasions. Managers Tristan Renoux and Frederick Malpart curate the dynamic, well-priced, mostly natural wine selection with an enthusiasm almost unheard of in the Paris hospitality scene. And the bar’s simple menu of salads and gourmet foodstuffs is anchored by a brilliant steak for two, prepared in the kitchen of Bruneau’s restaurant across the road, L’Ebauchoir. Bottles can also be purchased to go.
Practical information
Address: 4 rue de Citeaux, 75012
Nearest transport: Faidherbe-Chaligny (8) or Reuilly-Diderot (1)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday; open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner
Telephone: 01 58 51 14 04
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Reviews of interest
The Guardian (2015) “The creative snacks served at Le Siffleur are overseen by L’Ebauchoir’s chef, Thomas Dufour, and it is difficult to resist tasty plates of potatoes smothered with melted reblochon cheese, organic Beluga lentils drizzled with truffle oil on a bed of rocket, and an unforgettable gâteau de riz grand-mère, like no rice pudding you have tasted. Then there are some 400 wines to choose from, many with great names like Rue de la Soif, French Wine is Not Dead and Tout Bu or Not Tout Bu.”
Aaron Ayscough (2015) “Thierry Bruneau’s pitch-perfect neighborhood wine bar… The faux filet for two stands out… It rivals, in succuluence and density of flavour, the more famous meat slabs up the road at Bistrot Paul Bert.”
Punch (2014) “American service experience is evident at le Siffleur de Ballons, an inviting and contemporary wine bar where, rather remarkably for Paris, every member of the team is passionately interested in wine. Food is simply prepared with impeccable ingredients. But the cheese plates, charcuterie plates and roast potatoes are there mainly to sponge up the main event: a well-priced and thoughtfully curated selection of natural wines, available to drink on premises or for takeout.”
Paris By Wine (2013) “It’s a place well worth the detour and guarantees a great time amongst friends: good deco, good food, good wine – and all within a mastered simplicity.”
Le Bon Bon (2013) “Cave à boire et à manger au design soigné mélangeant moderne et tradition, le Siffleur ravira les papilles les plus exigeantes.”
Le Fooding (2013) “Oh! La belle cave à manger! Carrelée de blanc, parquetée, comptoirisée, ambiancée groovy… Et multifonction.”
Eva Robineau (2012) “Au Siffleur de Ballons, Tristan… Je lui dois des nombreuses belles quilles dégustées. J’aime sa conception du vin, pas basées sur des noms ou des étiquettes, une conception assez ouverte et franche, sans langue de bois.”
David Lebovitz (2012) “All the food coming out from behind the counter that everyone else was enjoying looked terrific… There were lots of great things in the épicerie adjacent to the wine bar… This is one place that is firmly on my radar. ”
Paris Paysanne (2012) “I’ve had a soft spot for this welcoming wine bar and restaurant that also stocks artisanal foods and natural wines that can be purchased to go… If you show up early enough and beat the dinner crowd you can usually find a spot at the bar or at one of the small tables nearby- arriving early also affords the opportunity to chat with the friendly servers, who are both knowledgeable and excited about the wine they are serving. Wine is sold by the glass and the prices are very reasonable, ranging from 3.50-5€.”
L’Express Styles (2011) “Lumineuse, une cave-épicerie à boire et à manger, comptoir ouvert sur quelques tables collées serré et sur des nourritures de provenances choisies.”
Le Figaro (2011) “Très bien. La sélection de vins et champagnes (Moncuit), les bons sandwichs à emporter, les prix convenables.”