Reyna
At Reyna, Chef Erica Paredes (ex-Mokoloco) promises Filipino food with a nomad soul – and she more than delivers. In the dusty rose dining room redolent with the scent of turmeric rice (order some – it’s the ideal accompaniment for what’s in store), small plates run the gamut from fried chicken with adobo sauce to ginger- and coconut-spiked steak tartare. Refusing the cage of prescriptivist “authenticity,” Paredes isn’t afraid to put a vegan spin on kare-kare – a peanut stew usually made with beef and pork but here served with eggplant. Her ginataang mais – a rice, coconut milk, and corn dessert – is served not hot but chilled and refreshing. Perhaps most importantly, she transcends trends by looking them square in the eyes: Omnipresent burrata is topped with sticky kecap manis, ginger, and loads of chile for a mind-blowing fusion of richness and heat. Grilled hispi cabbage is topped with sesame and gochujang-spiced mayonnaise and studded with bottarga shards for a sweet and smoky dish that may be the first to finally merit the phrase “umami bomb.”
- 41 Rue de Montreuil, 75011
- Open Wed-Sat for dinner, plus Sun lunch
- Closed Mon & Tues, and Sun evening
- Reservations online or at +33 1 40 09 06 82
