Unless you’re on an all-chocolate diet, this can be a frustrating food neighborhood. Prices are high and quality is sometimes questionable. But with a batch of new openings over the past two years to add to our old favorites, we’re no longer stumped by the (frequently asked) question: “I’m staying in Saint-Germain. Where should I eat?”
Planning to be in Paris during the holidays? Here's a schedule of who's open between December 20-January 5, and what they're serving for Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, New Year's Eve and New Year's Day.
Christophe Vasseur’s breads are worth crossing town for, and many people do. Beyond the famous pain des amies pictured above, his viennoiseries are really something special. Croissants and pain au chocolat are reliable, but the various escargots, with flavors that change with the seasons, always present a delicious dilemma. On a recent visit, both the pistache chocolat and citron amande made it into my bike basket. The chausson aux pommes is filled with pure, not-to-sweet apple, and is something of a revelation for those used to run of the mill apple turnovers. Sample your sweets (or some of the savory breads sold from a basket near the register) at the picnic table outside, or on a bench at the banks of the nearby Canal.
With excellent shopping, unique art & architecture and a vibrant gallery scene, the Marais attracts a huge number of visitors. There are some outstanding food & wine options within this maze of fashionable streets, and we’ve selected our favorites for you here.
Between September-December 2014, we anonymously tested all nine of the Paris restaurants that hold three Michelin stars, along with seven others that are considered to be shining examples of haute cuisine.
Haute cuisine is not exclusively about what’s on the plate. Elaborately choreographed service, the spectacular number of dishes, the depth of a wine cellar and sumptuous surroundings – these are arguably the elements that separate restaurants with two and three Michelin stars from their starless competitors.
If we look exclusively at the food, however, ignoring the chandelier that twinkles overhead and the plush pedestal propping up our handbags, there is still much to celebrate in haute cuisine.
Trying to find a restaurant for Christmas Eve or Christmas Day? We've rounded up the best options for you here.
The vast majority of Paris restaurants will be closed through January 2, but a few will be open to help you celebrate the New Year. There are no bargains at this time of year, but we've broken down your options, most ranging from 90€ to (gasp!) 700€.
Loving the night of Beaujolais Nouveau in Paris is like loving country music. One is constantly obliged to explain oneself. No other genre of wine has been so rightly derided by the international wine press for its superficiality. And yet, as in country music, there remain practitioners of the form whose work attains a sublime simplicity, particularly when experienced in the correct context. In Paris, at the right party, Beaujolais Nouveau is a transcendental event, a cross between Thanksgiving and New Year’s Eve, the one night of the year when an otherwise reserved and miserly population abandons its dime-sized, forward-facing café tables to stand around and sing and offer cheers to strangers.
“Boissons vivantes & épicerie funk” announces the tagline on this small, brightly decorated storefront. Inside, you’ll find nearly 200 different bottled craft beers from Europe and North America, many kept chilled for immediate consumption. The colorful interior is cheerful and inviting, and the enthusiasm of owners Jean-Baptiste and Dédé is infectious.
Lots and lots of different beers, served inexpensively and without pretense – that’s the draw at this welcoming, convivial bar in the far reaches of Eastern Paris. The selection is predominantly Belgian, as the name would suggest, but you’ll find a handful of French and German brews in the collection of at least 100 bottles on offer.
Revolutionary for Paris, this shoebox-sized bar just north of the lively Oberkampf district has a lot to offer lovers of craft beer… and their natural wine-drinking friends, too. French beer is well-represented both on the eight rotating taps and in the 80 or so bottles on offer, featuring such breweries as Outland (Ile-de-France), Sainte-Crucienne (Alsace), and Northmaen (Normandy). French bar snacks (cheese and charcuterie boards) and a small selection of natural wines available by the bottle or glass round out the menu. Service is friendly and knowledgeable, eager to help you find just the beverage you’re after, even if it’s something you’ve never tried before.
Situated in the increasingly lively Marché Saint Quentin, this shop is home to a wide variety of French and international craft beers, with particularly good selections from Italian and English breweries. Prices are very fair, and service is as chatty (or not) as you want them to be.
Address: Inside the Marché Saint Quentin at 85 bis boulevard Magenta, 75010
Nearest transport: Gare de l’Est (4, 5, 7)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 10:00am-8:00pm, Sunday 9:30am-1:30pm
Telephone: 01 44 79 02 97
Our clients, after we bribe them with cheese and chocolate, really seem to love us. Here's what some recent guests, including Ruth freaking Reichl, have said about our new food tours.
The folks at L’Express have created a handy guide to navigating this, the 5th edition of Tous au Restaurant. Just like Restaurant Week celebrations in other cities, Tous au Restaurant (September 22-28) aims to bring more people into restaurants by offering discounted meals – in this case, it’s buy one, get one free. And just like Restaurant Week celebrations in other cities, this is a terrible week for people who normally already visit restaurants (i.e. you, the readers of this website) to set foot in any of the participating restaurants.
Quite possibly the best happy hour in town, this pub pours 5€ pints from 6-8 pm every day, even weekends.
Long a favorite among students, the bustling “Beer Academy” is a worthwhile stop for any enthusiast of Belgian beer. Food is served at all hours of the day, and the two large patios are covered and heated in the winter.
Boasting the very best selection of craft beers on tap in Paris, as well as a bottle collection that brings the total offer up to 150 different beers, La Fine Mousse is certainly one of the city’s most well-stocked beer bars. It’s also one of the most expensive. French craft beers share real estate with lesser-known Belgians and German brews, with room left over for the USA, the Netherlands, and less-represented places like Norway and Italy to show off their brewing prowess. The meticulously curated beer list includes deep tracks from Brasserie St. Germain and Brewdog, and the descriptions (in French or English) will help you find just the beer you’re looking for. Serious beer geeks abound, the quiet atmosphere of the early evening eventually giving way to a lively party vibe as the social lubricant kicks in.
A true beer geek's paradise, Cécile Delorme's shop near the tourist- and student-friendly rue Mouffetard stocks hundreds of different beers from traditional Belgian and German to cult favorite Danish and Norwegian.
Don't be discouraged by the bog-standard beers on tap at this dark, European-style sports bar. The bottled beer selection is extensive, with brews from France and Belgium dominating the options, and a small collection of vintage beers is a unique addition to the menu.
Far off the beaten path, this place is one of Paris' very best beer bars. The three rotating taps include two French craft beers and one bière ordinaire, and the bottle menu presents five pages of small-production craft beers brewed in France.
If you have only one ice cream cone in Paris, make sure it comes from Berthillon, the long-standing grande dame of glaces. The tea salon is worth a visit, too.
A frozen yogurt shop with seasonal kiosks popping up all over Paris.
Hipster beer geekiness pervades this shop just off the Place de la Bastille, with a record player spinning the blues, a faux phone box housing the English beers, and a periodic table of beer styles on the wall. Prices are very fair, and Guillaume, the friendly young owner is rightly proud of his ever-growing collection which boasts 500 beers from all over the world.
An alimentation génerale turned beer shrine, this tiny shop still carries convenience food alongside its floor-to-ceiling shelves of good beer. A refrigerated case promises cold beer to go, and the shop is open until very late on weeknights, just in case.
With a host of international beers, a speedy bottle-chilling machine, and a row of chess tables at patrons' disposal, Guillaume Lucas' shop is a welcome addition to the rue des Martyrs. A good place to pick up something on the way to a party or picnic, but you can also pass a few hours here, playing chess and sipping quality beer.
Located just inside the covered market at Place d'Aligre, this little shop is easy to miss, nearly hidden behind its own refrigerated snack case. But it's a gem, with a solid assortment of Belgian, German, and French beers at very low prices.
This unassuming bar, tucked on a side street near the Marché d'Aligre, boasts an impressive collection of over 100 beers. The selection is largely Belgian and mostly in bottles, though the tap choices are above average.