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Moncoeur Belleville

If you already love Belleville, you’ll probably love this simple café perched high above the neighborhood’s namesake park. It’s not much more than cheap rosé served at communal picnic tables by friendly servers, but on certain summer evenings, that’s really all you need.

Practical Information

Address: 1 Rue des Envierges, 75020
Hours:

Open every day from 10am-2am

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Breizh Café Odéon

Langoustines and mayonnaise at Breizh Café Odéon

This slightly posher St-Germain sister restaurant of the long-time Marais favorite is turning out the same buttery buckwheat galettes as the original, but in less cramped conditions. Tables on the terrasse make this a great options for warm summer evenings, especially if you start with an icy platter of fresh oysters or langoustines.

Practical Information

Address: 1 Rue de l’Odéon, 75006
Hours: Open every day from 10am-11pm
Telephone: +33 1 42 49 34 73
Website    Online Booking    Facebook   Instagram

Breizh Café Odéon in pictures

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Terms & Conditions for Paris by Mouth Food Tours

Any guest of our food tours acknowledges that the enjoyment and excitement of travel is derived in part from the inherent risks incurred by travel and activity beyond the accepted safety of life at home or work, and that these inherent risks contribute to such enjoyment and excitement, and are reasons for my voluntary participation. Therefore, the guest acknowledges that they are aware of the inherent hazards and risks associated with participating in a Big Mouth, LLC d/b/a Paris by Mouth (Paris by Mouth) tour, including those associated with travel, including walking, food/wine and adventure tours. Specifically, the guest is aware of the physical requirements of participating in this tour.  The guest affirms that they are able to participate in the tour. The guest understands that, while participating, they may be walking for several hours, including on uneven walkways, sidewalks and roads. The guest agrees to inform Paris by Mouth of any food allergies and understand that not all requests can be accommodated given the nature of the tour. The guest understands that Paris by Mouth acts solely as an agent in arranging food tours, venue visits & other services. The guest understands that all of the guides are independent contractors of Paris by Mouth and have been selected based on their experience. Paris by Mouth is not responsible for the actions of, the conduct of or the decisions made by the guide.

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Partisan Café

Upon first glance, you’d be forgiven for confusing the industrially chic Partisan Café for another could-be-anywhere cosmopolitan, third-wave coffee joint. But like most things coffee, the devil is in the details. In this, financial analyst-cum-café owner, Georges Karam spares none. Combining a historian’s appreciation of coffee culture and Paris architecture with a physicist’s approach to fluid dynamics, Georges’ coffee geekery caters to a distinctly French sensibility.  >> Read More

Our Food & Wine Tours

Paris by Mouth has become the gold standard for food & wine tours in the French capital. We’ve been celebrated twice in The New York Times, making their cut for what to do with 36 Hours on the Left Bank. We’ve led tours for food & travel heros like David Lebovitz, Ruth Reichl, Dorie Greenspan and Rick Steves, but we’re most proud of the feedback that our clients give on TripAdvisor. Head over there to read more than 2,000 joyful reviews that have made us the #1 Food Activity in Paris.

Why Our Tours are Special

  • Our guides are mind-bogglingly great. These aren’t part-timers who have memorized a tour script; these are trained chefs, certified sommeliers, food journalists, and other food geeks who know their stuff and are delighted to share.
  • Our groups are tiny, with a maximum of 8 guests. We don’t expand beyond this size, even when people beg (and they do!). Small group size is key to having in-depth conversations and a lot of fun. Mass tourism is a drag, and the prestigious shops we visit don’t permit it.
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    Aux Vins des Pyrénées

    We’ve tested it and will be publishing a full review very soon. In the meantime, scroll down to see our photos and what others are saying about Vins des Pyrénées.

    Practical Information

    Address: 25 Rue Beautreillis, 75004
    Hours: Open every day from 7:00-2:00
    Telephone: +33 1 42 72 64 94
    Website   Online Booking   Facebook   Instagram

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    Vins des Pyrénées in pictures

    Photos by Meg Zimbeck © Rome by Mouth

    What people are saying

    Reviews of the restaurant under the current management

  • François Simon (2018) approves of the tartare with anchovies and smoked egg and the bread pudding with salted butter caramel and whipped cream.
  • Le Figaro (2017) Emmanuel Rubin gives it 2 hearts (out of 5) and says
  • Alexander Lobrano (2017) says “who doesn’t love an address where you could actually become a regular without having to spend a small fortune or reserve in advance?” but closes with what might be read as faint praise: “Vins des Pyrénées isn’t a place you come in search of gastronomic exaltation, but it’s very likeable for so usefully offering a good feed and great drinks seven days a week in one of the most appealing neighbourhoods in Paris.”
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    Eels

    We haven’t yet reviewed this restaurant, but you can scroll down to find the practical information and to read what others are saying about Eels.

    Practical Information

    Address: 27 Rue d’Hauteville, 75010
    Hours: Open Tuesday-Saturday from 12:30-14:00 and from 19:30-22:00.
    Telephone: +33 (0)1 42 28 80 20
    Website    Online Booking    Facebook   Instagram

    What people are saying

  • The Financial Times (2018) Nicholas Lander says that his lunch “delivered everything I look for in a meal anywhere: the kind of hospitality I would expect from someone in their own home combined with ultra-professional cooking of straight-forward ingredients.”
  • Le Monde (2018) François Simon calls this a serene spot, noting that chef Adrien Ferrand undoubtedly earned that characteristic alongside his mentor William Ledeuil from Ze Kitchen Galerie. He calls it a sort of comfort food, with plates that are brilliantly balanced and service that is friendly and efficient.
  • Le Fooding (2017) says that Eels “ticks off all the necessary boxes for a Parisian faubourgeois affaire: polished recipes, well-sourced ingredients, unadulterated wines and zero nonsense.” They rave about a dish of smoked eel with licorice-infused browned butter and the wines selected by Félix le Louarn.
  • Alexander Lobrano (2017) calls Eels the best new table of the rentrée “due to the superbly witty, inventive and assured cooking of chef Adrien Ferrand.” He praises the front-of-house staff for delivering “a flawless and charming service experience around the outstanding cooking of Adrien Ferrand.”
  • L’Express (2017) raves about the signature dish with “small sections of lightly smoked fish, hazelnut butter and hazelnut chips for the roundness, a touch of liquorice for spicy sweetness, shoots of oxalis and green apple for freshness.”
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    Edible Saint-Germain

    Unless you’re on an all-chocolate diet, this can be a frustrating food neighborhood. Prices are high and quality is sometimes questionable. But with a batch of new openings over the past two years to add to our old favorites, we’re no longer stumped by the (frequently asked) question: “I’m staying in Saint-Germain. Where should I eat?”

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    FAQs About Our Food Tours

    Here are some answers to frequently asked questions about our food & wine tours. Feel free to send an email to tasteparisbymouth@gmail.com with any other questions or concerns!

    Dietary Restrictions

    There’s this thing I don’t eat… will I still enjoy the tour?

    To all our vegetarian, paleo, pregnant, kosher and diabetic friends: have no fear! There are so many different tastes on the tour that if you skip one, you’ll still have plenty to enjoy. Our tours all feature a similar proportion of the major French food groups (bread, raw milk cheeses, charcuterie, chocolate, pastry, wine), so there isn’t one route that will be better or worse for you. If you describe your situation when booking, we’ll do our very best to ensure that you’re happy and full.

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    On the menu: carrots

    Here are some of the ways that carrots are being served in Paris restaurants. Click any photo (or hover over it) to read the caption and learn where the dish is from.

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    Sweetbreads in Paris restaurants | parisbymouth.com

    On the menu: sweetbreads

    Here are some of the ways that sweetbreads are being served in Paris restaurants. Click any photo (or hover over it) to read the caption and learn where the dish is from.

    >> Read More

    pigeon in Paris restaurants | parisbymouth.com

    On the menu: pigeon

    Here are some of the ways that pigeon is being served in Paris restaurants. Click any photo (or hover over it) to read the caption and learn where the dish is from.

    >> Read More

    Le Bel Ordinaire in Paris | parisbymouth.com

    Le Bel Ordinaire

    We have not yet visited Le Bel Ordinaire, which combines an épicerie (grocery and wine shop) with a wine bar and cave à manger. Scroll down to read some of the early reviews.

    Practical Information

    Address: 54 Rue de Paradis, 75010
    Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday. Open for lunch & dinner Tuesday-Saturday. 
    Telephone01 46 27 46 67
    Website   Facebook   Instagram

    What people are saying

  • Le Fooding (2017) appreciates the selection of natural wines but say that “there were some ups and downs the day we went for lunch, seated around the lone, long oak table… overcooked penne with leeks and haddock; Morteau sausage couscous with hints of butternut squash and daikon radish, seasoned with a spellbinding veal-harissa broth.”
  • TimeOut (2017) raves about the silky œufs mayo, the plump duck croquettes with Chinese cabbage, and a delicious but overpriced minestrone of vegetables with stracciatella. They find the to-go groceries, particularly the cheese, to be overpriced as well.
  • Atabula (2017) interviews Sébastien Demorand, who explains that many of their products come from his sourcing work for the failed Jeune Rue project, including the vinegars of Laurent Agnès and duck from Basque producer Jean Michel Berho. He also shares his hope to open another Bel Ordinaire in the 17th arrondissement.
  • Le Figaro (2017) calls this one of the best tables for Summer 2017 and says not to miss the salade piémontaise.
  • >> Read More

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    Le Zingam

    It appears to be run by bike messengers,” was what a friend said of charming, wood-paneled épicerie and greengrocer Le Zingam when it opened by Voltaire in 2014. And lo, indeed it is. But who says bike messengers can’t also have impeccable taste and wallet-friendly politics?

    Longtime friends from the neighborhood Lelio Stettin and Sonny Lac offer rigorously-selected vegetables, cheeses, meats, eggs, craft beers, organic and natural wines, and tinned preserves – all of opulent quality at quasi-socialist prices. Lac formerly worked nearby at the quaint wine-bistrot Mélac, and his wine selection at Le Zingam is honest and simple, geared towards casual refreshment over geek reverence. The shop’s product selection overall is a work of low-key brilliance – from tomme de chevre to pancetta to yogurt pots, Le Zingam’s selections are laser-targeted to invite wholesale adoption into one’s habitual home meals. For any Parisians perturbed by the slow transformation of quality foodstuffs into luxuries in their city, Le Zingam – discerning, refined, and unpretentious – is a godsend.

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    Divvino wine shop in Paris | parisbymouth.com

    Divvino

    Practical information

    Address: 16 Rue Elzevir, 75003
    Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8)
    Hours: Open Tuesday-Thursday and Sunday from 12-9pm. Open Friday-Saturday from 12-10pm.
    Telephone: 09 83 74 25 04
    Website   Facebook   Instagram

    Additional Location

    Address: 163 Boulevard Voltaire, 75011
    Nearest transport: Charonne (9)
    Hours: Open Tuesday-Friday from 10:30am-1:30pm and from 3:30-8:30pm. Open Saturday from 10:30am-9pm. Open Sunday from 11am-2pm and from 4-8pm. Open Monday from 5:30-8:30pm.
    Telephone: 09 83 05 27 46

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    Café Oberkampf

    This tiny café on a small street just off the rue Oberkampf perpetually has a crowd of young people lingering outside. They’re all waiting to snag one of just a dozen seats before the daily supply of Shakshuka runs out. The Lost in Cheeseland sandwich, named after the food writer who was an early supporter, is also a big hit, along with healthier fare like muesli and granola. If you come after 10am, expect to leave your name and to kill some time wandering around the neighborhood before a table opens up. If you prefer not to wait, their sister restaurant Café Méricourt opened around the corner in June 2017 and has much more seating.

    Notable dishes:

    • Shakshuka
    • Lost in Cheeseland sandwich

    Practical Information

    Address: 3 rue Neuve Popincourt, 75011
    Hours: Closed Wednesday & Thursday. Open Monday, Tuesday & Friday from 8:30am-4:30pm. Open Saturday & Sunday from 9:30am-4:30pm.
    Telephone: none, but their email is contact@cafeoberkampf.com
    Website   Facebook   Instagram

    Café Oberkampf in pictures

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    French Cheese Tasting Workshop

    About this workshop

    If you’ve ever wondered why there are more than 500 different cheeses in France, how different cheeses are produced (what accounts for their texture, color, and smell?), why French cheesemakers use raw unpasteurized milk in their cheese, what the impact of seasonality and aging are on cheese, and how locals typically enjoy cheese in restaurants and at home… this is a tasting for you.

    How much cheese? It depends on the day, but we usually go for at least 10 different cheeses, representing a wide variety of French regions and cheesemaking styles. And because it wouldn’t be a proper cheese tasting without wine, we’ll be matching at least five different French wines with our fromage and discussing principles for pairing cheese & wine that you can try on your own. You’ll leave with a solid understanding of some of the major categories and appellations of French cheese and wine, and you’ll have so much fun that it won’t feel like learning.

    Practical info

    Price for the cheese & wine workshop: 110€ per person, including all tastings. This small-group tasting (not a walking tour) is conducted in English and will last around three hours. We’ll send you the address of the beautiful space in Saint-Germain where this seated workshop is held once you’ve made your reservation.

    We offer this workshop on Tuesdays and Saturdays beginning at 11:30am. You’ll be sampling enough cheese, bread and wine that this can double as lunch. Send us an email if your desired dates are sold out, if you’re looking for a date after July 2019, or if you have any other questions.

    
    Terms & Conditions

    A sampling of what we might taste

    Banon de Banon

    Runny goat cheeses, in season

    Extra creamy cows' milk cheeses

    Extra creamy cows’ milk cheeses

    For the daring: pungent washed rind cheeses

    For the daring: pungent washed rind cheeses from the monastic tradition

    Crumbly cow's milk cheeses from central France

    Crumbly, tangy cow’s milk cheeses from central France

    Nutty and sharp cows’ milk cheeses, carefully aged for many years

    A selection of blue cheeses. They're all so different!

    A selection of blue cheeses. They’re all so different!

    Cancellations Policy

    A refund of 75% is available for those who cancel with at least 48 hours advance notice. For those who cancel with less than 48 hours notice, no refund will be made. Our tours run rain or shine. Clients who arrive more than 15 minutes late without calling or who don’t show up at all (no-shows) will be treated as last-minute cancellations without a refund.

    Clients who are booking tours for the day of their arrival in Paris should be aware that we do not offer refunds in the case of delayed flights and trains (because this is such a common occurrence). >> Read More

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    Contact Us

    By telephone: +33 9 70 73 66 99

    By email:

    parisbymouth@gmail.com for website-related inquiries

    tasteparisbymouth@gmail.com for food tour-related inquiries

    To book a food tour:

    Book directly online or send an email to tasteparisbymouth.com

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    In season now: the humble onion

    Here are some of the ways that onions are being served in Paris restaurants. Click any photo (or hover over it) to read the caption and learn where the dish is from.

    >> Read More

    Paris Restaurants That Are Good for Groups

    In Paris, where restaurants are tiny and can sometimes contain only a handful of tables, dining en masse requires a certain level of strategy. If you’re trying to book dinner for a large group (more than six people) or are planning a special event, we’ve found a selection of restaurants that can welcome a crowd.

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    In season now: sea scallops

    Here are some of the ways that sea scallops are being served in Paris restaurants. Click any photo (or hover over it) to read the caption and learn where the dish is from.

    >> Read More

    Paris Food & Wine Events

    Coming Soon

    • November 24: Juveniles is organizing a tasting dinner will be organized around the Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines from Domaine de la Biscarelle, with the presence of winemakers Jérome & Christelle Grieco. Reserve at 01 42 97 46 49.
    • November 24: Thanksgiving will be celebrated at Red House and other locations around town. See our guide to Thanksgiving in Paris 2016.
    • November 25-27: The Paris Cocktail Festival comprises several events, including a cocktail crawl on Saturday and a major salon on Sunday with more than 50 producers, brands and cocktails to taste. Check the online program for full details.
    • November 26: a free tasting with the winemaker from Domaine Raspail-Ay (Gigondas). From 11am-7pm at La Dernière Goutte, 6 rue de Bourbon de Chateau, 75006.
    • November 27: L’Amité Rit will be hosting the Naturisme tasting with the presence of winemakers Thibault Pfifferling (L’Anglore), Elodie Balme, Catherine Bernard, Sylvain Bock, Marie Lottin (Château Bas), Corine et Carole Andrieu (Clos Fantine), Pierre Fénals (En Belles Lies), Yannick Pelletier, Nicolas Réau, and Jean-Pierre Rietsch. From 11am-6pm at 120 Avenue du Président Wilson, 93100 Montreuil (métro line 9: Mairie du Montreuil).
    • November 28: the Green Goose will be hosting the first in a series of of Irish Tasting Menus. This new series aims to bring the best Irish artisanal products to the dinner table once a month, and the first dinner for 45 euros features two glasses of Teeling Irish Whiskey paired at different points with grilled oysters & Cas
    • hel blue cheese, Irish charcuterie, organic smoked salmon cannelloni, filet of beef with creamy polenta and girolles, a selection of Irish cheeses and a dark chocolate dessert. Reservations are obligatory at 09 82 37 73 41 or info@thegreengoose.fr.
    • December 3: a free tasting with the winemakers from Château Pierre-Bise (Loire Valley), Domaine d’Aupilhac (Montpeyroux) and Pierre Moncuit (Champagne). From 11am-7pm at La Dernière Goutte, 6 rue de Bourbon de Chateau, 75006.
    • December 17: a free tasting with the winemakers from Domaine Cailbourdin (Pouilly-Fumé) and Domaine Arretxea (Irouleguy). From 11am-7pm at La Dernière Goutte, 6 rue de Bourbon de Chateau, 75006.

    >> Read More

    Taste of the Latin Quarter

    About this tour

    Throughout its long history, the Latin Quarter has hosted the city’s most prestigious educational institutions, along with an eclectic mix of students. More recently, and more in keeping with our gluttonous aims, the area has seen the arrival of prize-winning cheesemongers, sweet shops and other food artisans.

    What we’ll taste

    In addition to sampling savory charcuterie and cheeses from one of the most historic cheese affineurs in town along with bread and wine, we’ll be sharing a wide array of treats along the sweet spectrum. That includes  chocolates from the hand of a Meilleur Ouvrier de France (an MOF – the highest rank for a French chocolatier), and the city’s best lemon tart. Although we will be sampling a bit along the way, the bulk of our tasting and discussion will take place while seated in a comfortable wine shop where we can select and pair different wines to enjoy with the wonderful items we’ve collected during our walk.

    Practical info

    Price for a small group tour: 110€ per person, including all tastings. Our tours are all conducted in English and last approximately three hours. This tour will finish with a seated tasting that includes wine, but we’ll be on our feet and moving for at least two hours throughout the tour. We’ll send you the exact meeting point upon booking, but you can plan to begin near the Censier-Daubenton métro stop and finish near the Place Monge métro stop. We maintain very small group sizes and are unable to add guests to tours that don’t have enough available tickets. Send us an email if your desired dates are sold out or if you have any other questions. We hope to meet you soon!

    The Latin Quarter in pictures

    A selection of cheeses from a master monger

    Delicious charcuterie

    Delicious charcuterie

    Dark, rich bonbons from a master (MOF) chocolatier

    Prize-winning desserts

    Prize-winning desserts

    Cancellations Policy

    A refund of 75% is available for those who cancel with at least 48 hours advance notice. For those who cancel with less than 48 hours notice, no refund will be offered. Our tours run rain or shine. Clients who arrive more than 20 minutes late without calling or who don’t show up at all (no-shows) will be treated as last-minute cancellations with no refund.

    Clients who are booking tours for the day of their arrival in Paris should be aware that we do not offer refunds in the case of delayed flights (because this is such a common occurrence). >> Read More

    buttery croissants

    Taste of the Marais

    About this tour

    Throughout its long history, the Marais has been home to successive waves of aristocrats, immigrants, artists, and hipsters. The northern section of this quarter is now exploding with art galleries, independent fashion boutiques, and cool new eateries.

    What we’ll taste

    We’ll start the day with buttery croissants and crisp baguettes from an award-winning baker, then visit a family-run fromagerie where they age their own small-production cheeses. We’ll select a range of different cheeses to taste, then add to our basket by picking up some delectable saucisson from a pig-obsessed charcutier. We’ll be stopping at a quirky cave à vins to sit and sample and taste all of these with French wine. We will the wind our way to a blow-out sweets tasting at one of our favorite chocolatier in Paris (and therefore the world).

    Practical information

    Price for a small group tour: 110€ per person, including all tastings. Our tours are all conducted in English and last approximately three hours. This tour will finish with a seated tasting that includes wine, but we’ll be on our feet and moving for at least two hours throughout the tour. We’ll send you the exact meeting point upon booking, but you can plan to begin and finish within a five minute walk of the République métro stop in the northern Marais. We maintain very small group sizes and are unable to add guests to tours that don’t have enough available tickets. Send us an email if your desired dates are sold out or if you have any other questions. We hope to meet you soon!

    The Marais in pictures

    Learning (and tasting!) what makes a prize-winning butter croissant

    Small production goat cheeses from the Loire Valley

    Locals hanging out at one of the city’s oldest markets

    Some truly luscious charcuterie

    Some of the best chocolate you may ever eat

    Cancellations Policy

    A refund of 75% is available for those who cancel with at least 48 hours advance notice. For those who cancel with less than 48 hours notice, no refund will be made. Our tours run rain or shine. Clients who arrive more than 15 minutes late without calling or who don’t show up at all (no-shows) will be treated as last-minute cancellations without a refund.

    Clients who are booking tours for the day of their arrival in Paris should be aware that we do not offer refunds in the case of delayed flights and trains (because this is such a common occurrence). >> Read More