Le Servan

Le Servan dining room in Paris | parisbymouth.com

Tatiana Levha, formerly at L’Arpège and L’Astrance, and her sister Katia have opened up this light, airy bistro with a central bar & hand painted ceiling. The short list of offerings changes each day, but expect seasonally driven cuisine inflected with international touches like tandoori spiced beurre blanc atop asparagus or harissa to spice up the line caught hake. Dessert left room for improvement, but otherwise Le Servan had reasonably priced, expertly executed dishes and friendly service in a beautiful space.

Practical information

Address: 32 rue Saint Maur, 75011
Nearest transport: Rue Saint Maur (3), Père Lachaise (2, 3), Voltaire (9)
Hours: Closed Saturday & Sunday. Open Monday for dinner only; Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch and dinner
Telephone: 01 55 28 51 82
Reservations: Book a day or two in advance
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 40-59€
Style of cuisine: modern French
Website

Reviews of Interest

Sugared & Spiced (2015) “Except the slightly too strong fishy taste in the mackerel appetizer, I enjoyed everything at lunch at Le Servan. This place really does serve very good food at affordable prices, with extra points in service and ambience.”

Food & Wine (2015) “Her short menu is shot through with thrilling tastes. She makes nut butter from ginger and cashews, two items rarely seen in French cooking, then stuffs it under the skin of magnificent mahogany-seared guinea hen. Following the example of her mentors, Levha treats vegetables seriously, serving that hen alongside cauliflower steak with the tender green leaves and ribs attached.”

Time Out (2014) “Le Servan perfectly expresses the creative tension of the ubiquitous ‘bistronomie’ movement – both accessible and creative – without feeling like a cookie-cutter concept. Paris certainly seems to think so anyway, with bobos descending on the restaurant in waves at each feeding time.”

Les Grands Ducs (2014) “Dans l’assiette, le talent est là, et à haute dose. On joue sur la subtilité des accords traités sur le fil. Asperges blanches, crème tandoori et sauge frite, sur des cuissons impeccables, des confrontations finaudes, une belle présentation, du floral en fil conducteur et de la délicatesse à tous les étages. Nul doute que la jeune chef ira loin.”

Simon Says (2014) “Coup de coeur du mois… un vrai coup de gong! Nourritures frontales, vives, sexy…”

Table à Découvert (2014) “Le tout résonne avec beaucoup de simplicité et fonctionne bien à l’heure du déjeuner. Par contre, pas un morceau de tissus à l’horizon ou quelque chose qui pourrait absorber le bruit, du coup, s’il y a des tables de bons vivants à côté de vous (comme c’était le cas pour moi ce jour là), ça part beaucoup dans les aigus et ça tonne dans tous les sens.”

Alexander Lobrano (2014) “The lucid way she composes her dishes is based on a clear love of the produce she cooks with and the impressive battery of technical skills that inform her cooking, which becomes personal and original when she sautés cockles in pungent fish sauce and garnishes them with fiery bird peppers and basil.”

Figaroscope (2014) “En malice tectonique, des compositions «fric-frac» pleines de touches et d’habiles épices qui vous font en bouche ces fameux «baisers pointus comme un accent aigu».”

John Talbott (2014) “The best prix-qualité ratio of the year 2014.”

Not Drinking Poison in Paris (2014) “Almost every component of my meal at Le Servan was sterling, a tour de force of talent and good taste.”

1 Comment on Le Servan

  1. Thanks for a splendid meal tonight, our last in Paris this time around. Whilst we had not made a booking we were fortunate to get the last table. Menu is changed and printed daily to take advantage of fresh seasonal produce. A la carte and mid-range price for the quality. International/French cuisine and food well presented. Variety of wines to select from. Take a look and make a booking in advance to secure you get the experience. Several people were turned away whilst we were there and left disappointed.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.


*