Drouant

It’s not a typical Parisian restaurant, and could literally be any place in the world. And, that includes the food as well. The service is excellent, from the maitre’d to the wait staff as well as the bus-people. The entrées were hits as well as some of the side dishes; however, most of our plats were questionable. Overall I was not boiled over by the food, it was just uninspiring, and just OK. However, I had an opportunity to taste some of my friends dishes. I was really surprised that the “braised” dishes, which I fortunately did not have, were executed so poorly. In fact, the venison was so dry, stringy and BITTER, I would need a whole bottle of wine to be able to finish it. I also tasted the goose, it tasted like it was made a week prior and was reheated, it was just horrendously stringy/dry awful. I had the poitrine de porc croistillant, it was “soggy” and “rubbery” but fortunately it included some nice slices of porc filets that were quite good. Five of us, including a restauranteur, a vintner and a food writer were shocked and pretty much agreed that it overall was not that good, in “total”. Only one friend had something somewhat positive to say, “I didn’t hate it, but I didn’t love it either.” However, at those prices I expected more.

The bill for 5 of us for lunch came to almost €300 which included 2 glasses of white wine and a bottle of red wine.

Would I go back? probably not. A friend recommends trying the special items such as the steak au poivre, or chicken on Sundays. Again, at these prices there should NOT as many misses as there are hits…

Known for his reverence for vegetables, Alsace-born Antoine Westermann’s Haute Cuisine takes center stage on rue Saint-Augustin at gorgeous Drouant. A feast for the eyes, Drouant is a piece of architectural heaven; all spaciousness, harmony and serenity, allowing the delights of the palate to bloom against the neutral evenness of carefully-synchronized elegance.

Originally a bar-tobacco shop at Place Gaillon, the historic Drouant family building has been host to The Academie Francaise for approximately 100 years. In one of this restaurant’s private rooms, the election of a new member of the Academie takes place in secrecy; only when one member passes on, does it necessitate succession by a new member. In contrast to its preserved history, Drouant’s present interior and ambience is very modern; citrus textured, slightly metallic walls; bronze leather chairs and black-lacquered lamps and tables, with blonde hardwood floors sharing space with stately pillars and soft, recessed lighting. Creative splashes of whimsy are displayed in the ceiling, with lobsters, fish and stingrays artfully appliquéd; tall glasses of green apples abound throughout the upscale restaurant with the spirit of a brasserie.

My dining companion and gastronomic expert Bernard Stentzel was excited to introduce me to this, one of his favorite places. Stentzel lets me in on a little secret: The best Parisian restaurants at lunch are less expensive than most mid-level eateries. Better to eat a sublime lunch here, than plow through a tourist haven and pay more! My appetizer of fresh filet of sardines (Des filets de sardines en escabèche de moules) with marinated squash was an orchestra of flavor, with parsley, tomatoes and slightly spicy undertone never overpowering the delicate sweetness of the fish.

My main dish, Un supreme de volaille roti, fricassee de legumes de saison, was the most delicious chicken I’ve ever eaten, with stewed vegetables underneath – potatoes, onions, carrots – the miracle of these little vegetables was, that beneath the fragrant, flavorful and moist (and generous) poultry, you could taste the individuality of each tuber, each stem. I liken the food preparation at Drouant to a lyrical phrase in music; nothing is wasted and everything has its moment. A lovely red burgundy wine went along with our amazing meal. Monsieur Stentzel had the most tender beef imaginable, telling me, “the beef is as tender as you,” adding, “and you can quote me on that”.

Dessert was Une barre chocolat praliné, crème glacée au caramel et émulsion au Bailey’s, which soothed the chocolate craving with caramel ice cream and chocolate praline in a gentle sea of Bailey’s cream liqueur. Stentzel ordered the red fruit cake with coconut ice cream (Un biscuit moelleux à la moix de coco, fruits rouges et gelée de rhubarbe). Both desserts were satisfying and not cloyingly sweet.

The service was seamless, appropriately friendly and never obtrusive, and once again I am enchanted by the irony of living well, French style….in a lovely place such as Drouant, it would not surprise to have encountered a slightly stuffy “vibe,” – after all, this is a fashionably hip, beautiful and historic restaurant where many famous artists such as Renoir and Rodin originally congregated; but never did I feel beneath (or above!) the caliber or style of its charms. It is modern, yes. And refined, of course. But let it be said that Drouant commits to and succeeds with its intention of a warm, accessible brasserie environment offering fresh, delicious food with a twist.