Le Pantruche

Le Pantruche Restaurant in Paris | Paris By Mouth

Franck Baranger’s modern bistro near Pigalle is turning out dishes like celery root soup, oyster tartare, and a standout côte de cochon. Two courses at lunch for 17€, three at dinner for 32€.

Practical information

Address: 3 rue Victor Massé, 75009
Nearest transport: Pigalle (2, 12)
Hours: Closed Saturday and Sunday; Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 48 78 55 60
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 40-59€
Style of cuisine: Classic French

Reviews of interest

Patricia Wells (2015) “Le Pantruche, with its 1930s patina – large oak bar, mirrors that make a small place grand, warming chestnut-toned banquettes and simple oak chairs -– is the sort of place everyone wants to have within walking distance of home… I’ll be back to try once again his signature oyster tartare set in a brilliant green cream of lettuce soup (huître en tartare, crème de laitue). The raw, well-seasoned scoop of minced oysters bathes in the creamy soup, topped with a palate-opening dollop of nutmeg-scented cream, a soothing opener if ever there was one.”

A Good Forking (2013) “It is fair to say that Le Pantruche has become my new favourite bistro.”

Figaroscope (2011) “…les assiettes sont jolies à la sortie du passe-plat mais sacrément bonnes : crème de concombre au lait de coco, tartare de daurade au curry, poitrine de veau à la verveine…Et vous avez vu les prix?”

Food Intelligence (2011) “Les mets offrent la netteté et la pureté du travail bien fait. Le chef, Franck Baranger, longtemps première main chez Christian Constant cuisine avec la fierté de l’artisan. Soucis du détail jusqu’à l’obsession, pour l’élaboration de ses couleurs, textures et saveurs.”

Chroniques du Plaisir (2011) “Service un peu lent mais d’une gentillesse désarmante. A deux pas de chez moi, j’ai enfin trouvé ma cantine: je suis joie!”

L’Express (2011) “Quand d’autres rutilent et futilent, l’humble Pantruche file droit à l’essentiel de sa dégaine Paname, à la fois désuète et charmeuse, et d’une cuisine précise, juste et savoureuse.”

John Talbott (2011) “The joue de boeuf… took a good deal of salt and pepper to bring up to edible – the wine in the sauce just had no heft… My friends all love the place, the service is terrific, the prices right and the setting superb, but I will not be back.”

Cuit-Cuit (2011) “Ça s’appelle le Pantruche, c’est dans le 9e arrondissement de Paris, capitale de la France, et c’est un des meilleurs troquets que j’ai croisé depuis… depuis longtemps.”

Alexander Lobrano (2011) “The marine-whiff of salted cod was a terrific spark to the obvious pleasure of…a coddled egg on creamed baby leeks, what’s not to like?–and my foie gras was topped with that lemon-yellow layer of fat (normally proof that it really is not only fresh but homemade), exquisitely well cooked and seasoned.”

1 Comment on Le Pantruche

  1. Le Pantruche is as they say in France “correct”.
    We had reserved a table and was given one in a very stuffed and elbow rubbing part of the almost full and noisy restaurant.
    We sat a while and looked at the menu. I spotted a free table outside and asked if we could have that
    instead – happily we could.
    It was nice to be outside on this very warm night. Here we could speak to each other and the temperature was lower.
    We had the 3 course Prix fixe menu and a bottle of cold rosé + water.
    None of our savoury dishes was more than average. All was ok – but nothing more – and all a little
    bland tasting. No really surprises or daring contrasts.
    The dessert was a little better – we had the famed Grand Marnier souffle – it was nice and fluffy
    but again the taste a bit bland – I could hardly taste the Grand Marnier.
    The price was just below 100 € and the place is popular – but maybe a bit overrated?
    Great helpful waiters and fine service.
    If I happen to pass by one day at lunch I may try it again.

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