Aléa is new restaurant, tucked into the sweet and sedate backside of the Montmartre hill, that’s run by a young couple. It feels personal. Chef Léa Lestage, who previously worked at the three-star Epicure, is serving a market-driven menu at night with 3-4 options per course (starters 11-16€, mains 24-26€). When I went, that included the best duck dish I’ve had in years – a canard de Challans served with an indulgent potato millefeuille and a fig poached in red wine… Read More »aléa
Le Tagine has been serving tasty Moroccan cuisine with incredible natural wines for more than three decades. It’s a fun casual option for groups, including vegetarians and wine geeks, and it’s open on Sunday.
Daimant Faubourg is a trendy new vegan restaurant in Paris. Unfortunately, it isn’t great. DAIMANT FAUBOURG 20 Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, 75010Open every day for lunch & dinnerReservations online or at +33 7 88 09 73 48 Their Instagram / Our Instagram OUR PHOTOS OF Daimant Faubourg IN OTHER WORDS SUBSCRIBE TO OUR NEWSLETTER
Semilla is one of our favorite restaurants in Saint-Germain, with an excellent wine list and plenty of options for vegetarians. Open Sunday.
With its worn wooden tables, intricately painted ceilings, and charcuterie slicer propped on the marble counter, L’Assiette has the precise look of a dream Paris bistro. It also serves many of the classic dishes, like escargots and cassoulet, which have mostly disappeared from the city’s restaurants. The far-flung location in the 14th arrondissement, near the Catacombs but far from the center, has probably helped L’Assiette to stay off the tourist radar. Chef David Rathgeber and his team are friendly with visitors but don’t cater to them. The customers who come to indulge in this hearty fare are mostly local, which makes this a great option for tourists looking to avoid their own countrymen.
Les Parisiens is a hotel restaurant whose menu is “signed by” (created and overseen by) Thibault Sombardier. The food here is good, but the ambiance is a drag. If you’re visiting Paris, there’s no reason to go and eat in this hotel with all your fellow travelers. LES PARISIENS 1 Rue du Pré aux Clercs, 75007Open every day for lunch & dinnerReservations online or at +33 1 42 96 65 43 Their Instagram / Our Instagram OUR PHOTOS OF LES PARISIENS IN… Read More »Les parisiens
Baillotte is a solid option for modern & creative cuisine with choices (not a tasting menu) in Saint-Germain. They’re welcoming to solo diners, have (limited but tasty) vegetarian options, and are open for lunch on Sunday. From the same restaurant group as Narro in the Latin Quarter. BAILLOTTE 16 Rue du Dragon, 75006 Open Tuesday-Saturday for lunch & dinnerOpen Sunday for lunch onlyClosed MondayReservations online or at +33 9 84 29 93 48 Their Instagram / Our Instagram OUR PHOTOS OF BAILLOTTE IN… Read More »Baillotte
Le Jules Verne is the fine dining restaurant inside the Eiffel Tower, currently helmed by chef Frédéric Anton.
A very useful Marais restaurant, with continuous service every day of the week between 7am-2am, a lot of vegetarian options, and even a kids’ menu.
In the same spot as Le Colvert, a restaurant that never really took off, Colvert (sans “le”) has reopened with a new look and a new (Top) chef. Arnaud Baptiste participated in the 2021 season of French Top Chef and his food is, accordingly, wildly creative and over-sauced. But overall, this is a solid option for Saint-Germain – especially since Colvert is open every day of the week. COLVERT 54 Rue Saint-André des Arts, 75006Open every day for lunch &… Read More »Colvert
Chef Lisa Desforges is continuing the tradition of classic Burgundian dishes at this sepia toned bistro in Saint-Germain. Review coming soon. ALLARD 41 Rue Saint-André des Arts, 75006Open Wednesday-Monday for lunch & dinnerClosed Tuesday Reservations online or at +33 1 43 26 48 23 Their Instagram / Our Instagram OUR PHOTOS OF ALLARD Coming soon… IN OTHER WORDS Table à Découvert (2014) “La carte passe d’une région à l’autre, avec des plats de tradition, savoureux et évoquant la générosité.” John Talbott (2013) “In other… Read More »Allard
Géosmine, a new restaurant in the 11th, has stirred a lot of interest this year with their provocative tasting menu by chef Maxime Bouttier (ex-Mensae). Much of that attention has focused on his signature dish of cow udder with cream, algae and caviar. While some of his dishes might seem shocking, Bouttier’s creations feel sincere and are mostly successful (on any 11-course tasting menu there are bound to be hits and misses). Wonderful service and wine selections helped to soften… Read More »Géosmine
Narro is a partnership between chef Kazuma Chikuda (ex-Le Sot l’Y Laisse), Megumi Terao and Thomas Legrand – a longtime fixture of the Paris natural wine scene. I went on the recommendation from several readers and found it to be sweet, but not a resounding success. Most plates included too many ideas and felt a little muddled. Service was kind but chaotic. Narro was packed packed on the night of our visit, both inside and on their large outdoor terrace,… Read More »Narro
In the age of Instagram, the plates and dining room at Amarante feel almost defiantly unadorned. Christophe Philippe has created a haven near Bastille for those who unapologetically love fatty food and offal and who share a disdain for vegetables. You won’t find any herbs, acidity or brightness on these plates. Both the food and the ambiance are decidedly heavy. Your gut-busting meal might finish with a simple scoop of chocolate mousse or a perfectly aged piece of Camembert-de-Normandie. The… Read More »Amarante
Golden Poppy is a restaurant from star chef Dominique Crenn inside the Fantasia hotel. Her Paris outpost takes its name and inspiration from California, the state in which Crenn resides and runs her three-star Atelier Crenn. The menu and decor are wild and the experience is mixed. Given the high prices (small plates run from 18-48 euros) and the overall “meh?” feeling that followed our meal, it’s not a restaurant that we’re urging you to visit. GOLDEN POPPY 24 Rue… Read More »Golden poppy
With its chili jam-slathered sandwiches and extra-salty chocolate cookies, Gramme could easily be found in London or Brooklyn. But Gramme shouldn’t be dismissed as a watery import – the food is excellent, and the vibe is very local. Their signature dwich (this is how Parisians now refer to sandwiches) is the sort of thing I want to eat every weekend – a runny egg with herbs, chili jam, copious herbs, and either sausage or charred broccolini on a fresh brioche bun. Their… Read More »Gramme
With its chili jam-slathered sandwiches and extra-salty chocolate cookies, Gramme could easily be found in London or Brooklyn. But Gramme shouldn’t be dismissed as a watery import – the food is excellent, and the vibe is very local. Their signature dwich (this is how Parisians now refer to sandwiches) is the sort of thing I want to eat every weekend – a runny egg with herbs, chili jam, copious herbs, and either sausage or charred broccolini on a fresh brioche… Read More »Gramme
I’m a fan of the food + vibe at Café les Deux Gares, so it’s not shocking that I also love the food + vibe at this new offering from Frédéric Lesire and Jonathan Schweizer. The duo behind Café les Deux Gares have branched out into the 11th with a natural wine bar serving small, sharable plates. What sets Le Goncourt apart from many similar establishments in the ‘hood is the quality of the cooking and the near-astonishing level of… Read More »Le Goncourt
Brasserie des Prés is the new Saint-Germain outpost from the Nouvelle Garde group that includes Brasserie Dubillot and Brasserie Bellanger. Like its sister restaurants, Brasserie des Prés is a great option for affordable classic French food (especially when dining with kids, picky eaters, or vegetarians). They’re open every day of the week. You can eat early, late, or with a large group. BRASSERIE DES PRÉS 6 Cour du Commerce Saint-André, 75006Open every day from 9am-midnightReservations online or at +33 1 42 03 44 13… Read More »Brasserie des Prés
Le Violin d’Ingres, a one-star restaurant near the Eiffel Tower, has passed from the hands of Christian Constant to Bertrand Bluy (owner of Les Papilles). The kitchen is now run by Alain Solivérès (formerly the chef at Taillevent) and Jimmy Tsaramanana. I have mixed feelings about my recent visit. When I reexamine the photos, I’m reminded of how much I loved the spelt risotto with blue lobster, the glazed sweetbreads with morel mushrooms, and the vanilla millefeuille. Almost everything was… Read More »Le Violin d’Ingres
We haven’t yet visited this particular location, but are excited to see that our beloved Breizh Café has expanded with a location near Beaugrenelle in the 15th. We’ve included Breizh Café among our 50 favorite restaurants in Paris. BREIZH CAFÉ CHARLES MICHEL 3 place Charles Michels, 75015Open every day for lunch & dinnerReservations online or at +33 9 55 24 41 24 Their Instagram / Our Instagram OUR PHOTOS OF BREIZH CAFÉ Combined from our visits to multiple locations ADDITIONAL LOCATIONS Breizh Café Montorgueil14… Read More »Breizh Café Charles Michel
Le Jardin de Cheval Blanc is an ephemeral restaurant on the roof of the Cheval Blanc hotel that runs from June 2 to October 1. The space is lush with trees and other plantings, and the red and white theme – which extends from the table settings to the staff uniforms – feels like holiday. The red theme also extends to the food – Arnaud Donckele (the chef of the three-star restaurant downstairs) supposedly collaborated with chef William Béquin to… Read More »Le Jardin de Cheval Blanc
Alain Ducasse has created a floating restaurant that’s actually good. Ducasse sur Seine docks directly in front of the Eiffel Tower and offers an incredible view of that monument at the beginning as you arrive for your lunch or dinner. It then breaks away for a slow and silent (the boat is electric and soundless) cruise that glides past the most gorgeous Paris monuments during a two-hour circuit. At lunch, there are menus at 95€ (two courses + a beverage),… Read More »Ducasse Sur Seine
Fabula is an ephemeral restaurant inside the courtyard at the Musée Carnavalet that operates from May through September. This Marais museum about the history of Paris is worth a visit anyway, and now you can have dinner inside their stunning 16th century courtyard. Chef Julien Dumas (Le Saint-James) and mixologist Remy Sauvage (L’Artésian in London) have composed a menu of cold plates and chilly cocktails that are perfect for those hot summer evenings when you don’t want to eat too… Read More »Fabula
Les Petites Mains is an ephemeral restaurant in the courtyard of the Palais Galliera fashion museum. It’s a beautiful place to take in the architecture of the building and view the Eiffel Tower from afar. However, when we visited, it was an absolute circus. There weren’t enough servers, and the staff they had were all brand-new (despite already being open for weeks). Drinks were requested once and then again and then again. There was a one-hour delay after our first… Read More »Les Petites Mains
La Bete Noire is a sweet spot for breakfast and lunch at the southern tip of the Luxembourg Gardens. On a recent visit for weekend brunch, we were crazy about all the savory dishes and a little ho-hum about the pastries for which they’re known. Service on the weekends can be glacially slow, but it’s friendly. Don’t go if you’re in a rush. We love that they always have a good meatless option for every course and have recommended them… Read More »La Bete Noire
Pétrelle is one of the romantic restaurants in Paris, and it’s also one of the most delicious. Chef Lucie Boursier-Mougenot and her team create a beautiful tasting menu that changes every week to reflect the seasons, and Luca Danti ensures that everyone in the dining room feels very well taken care of.
La Rotisserie d’Argent is a classic French bistro serving what might be the best roast chicken in Paris. Located next to the Seine, with outdoor tables overlooking the river, this is a centrally located and crowd-pleasing spot for classics like steak frites, duck confit, steak tartare, and kidneys in mustard sauce (vegetarians should steer clear). There’s a good wine list, as you’d expect from the team behind La Tour d’Argent, and they’re open every day. LA ROTISSERIE D’ARGENT 19 Quai… Read More »La Rotisserie d’Argent
Bofinger is a beautiful old brasserie in the Marais that serves Alsatian dishes like choucroute and flammekueche. A lot of people have special memories tied to Bofinger, and I don’t want to talk them out of their attachments. But Bofinger (pronounced bo-fan-zhay) is not a destination for food lovers. The space is enormous, which makes it easy to get in without a reservation at the last minute. But their size is the restaurant’s downfall. It’s hard to flag a server… Read More »Bofinger
Le Trumilou is the sort of unfussy basic bistro that we want to love. Situated along the Seine and with plenty of space to welcome groups and last minute bookings, this would be an affordable gem if the food were edible. In our experience, it isn’t.
We haven’t yet visited this particular location, but are excited to see that our beloved Breizh Café has expanded with a location in the 16th near Passy. There’s a leafy garden for outdoor dining at this location, which is an easy walk from the Eiffel Tower. We’ve included Breizh Café among our 50 favorite restaurants in Paris. BREIZH CAFÉ PASSY 1 impasse des Carrières, 75016Open every day for lunch & dinnerReservations online or at +33 9 80 49 41 67 Their Instagram / Our… Read More »Breizh Café Passy
Soces is a seafood restaurant in Belleville, not far from the wonderful Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. Chef Marius de Ponfilly (ex-Clamato) is preparing gorgeous small plates with modest prices, alongside a few whole fish or and a handful of meaty options. There’s a strong selection of cheese, too. The room is beautiful. We really loved our first visit. Soces has been included among our 50 favorite restaurants in Paris and our favorite spots for seafood. SOCES 32 rue de la Villette, 75019Open… Read More »Soces
Café des Musées is a reasonably-priced bistro in the heart of the Marais with a notable beef bourguignon.
Otto is a wine bar from Eric Tronchon, an MOF chef who runs the nearby one-star restaurant Solstice. I got to know (and love) Tronchon’s cooking when he was at Semilla, and when he developed the menu for Semilla’s next-door wine bar Freddy’s. The menu at Otto is very similar to Freddy’s: diminutive plates of grilled shitake mushrooms, fried things, grilled seafood. The wine list at both places is outstanding. But in contrast to Freddy’s, which is always so busy… Read More »Otto
Chef Sota Atsumi, who made his name at Clown Bar, is now making magic at Maison. He still occasionally recreates the pithiviers (the dish pictured above) that made him famous, but that’s not why you should go to Maison. Go for a long lunch – Sunday lunch if you can swing it – and spend a few gorgeous hours relaxing in the sunlit room, smelling the woodsmoke and delighting in his incredibly thoughtful tasting menu. We prefer lunch to dinner and… Read More »Maison
Brasserie Bellanger is an all-day spot near Gare du Nord for affordable French classics like oeuf-mayo and steak-frites They’re open every day, even in August, and their continuous service from 9am to midnight makes them a good option for eating early with kids or late, after a show. They have sister locations in other neighborhoods called Brasserie Dubillot, Brasserie Martin and Brasserie des Prés.
We haven’t yet visited this particular location, but are excited to see that our beloved Breizh Café has expanded with a location on the Canal Saint-Martin. A beautiful outdoor terrace puts their tables and black & white chairs right up next to the water – a prime spot to enjoy what we think are the best crêpes in Paris. We’ve included Breizh Café among our 50 favorite restaurants in Paris. BREIZH CAFÉ CANAL 112 Quai de Jemmapes, 75010Open every day for… Read More »Breizh Café Canal
We haven’t yet visited this particular location, but are excited to see that our beloved Breizh Café has expanded with a location near the rue des Abbesses in Montmartre. They have a few sidewalk tables for outdoor dining at this location. We’ve included Breizh Café among our 50 favorite restaurants in Paris and our guide to eating and drinking in Montmartre. BREIZH CAFÉ MONTMARTRE 93 rue des Martyrs, 75018Open every day for lunch & dinnerReservations online or at +33 1 46… Read More »Breizh Café Montmartre
This restaurant has gone through plenty of changes since James Henry and the letter B departed (it used to be called Bones), but Jones is currently having a moment. Owner Florent Ciccoli recently partnered with longtime Jones sommelier Damien Lacour and the talented Abbruzzese chef Riccardo Ferrante, sparking a renaissance at this storied address. The dining room is now packed, with (mostly) locals flocking to taste Ferrante’s small plates and pastas. They’re also there to drink from Lacour’s “long wine list that… Read More »Jones
Chef Yves Camdeborde opened Le Comptoir du Relais in 2004 and, for a period of about a decade, it was one of the hottest tables in Paris. After years of diminishing quality, however, it stopped being a destination and was eventually sold in 2022 to chef Bruno Doucet (La Régalade Saint-Honoré). We returned after Doucet took it over and found it unredeemed.
Open since 1912, this picture-postcard Paris bistro serves elevated and expensive French classics.
Grande Brasserie has a lot of things going for it. The vintage décor, in the space that used to be Le Petit Bofinger, is gorgeous. Light streams in through the large windows, and the walls are adorned beautiful old murals and posters. Owner Adrien Spanu has a lot of restaurant friends who helped him put together one of the best wine lists in Paris (hint: it looks a lot like the ones you’ll find at Semilla and Fish). It’s centrally… Read More »Grande Brasserie
The Ducasse group runs this longstanding address for Lyon-style cooking.
Flocon is a sincere and locavore-leaning new restaurant run by a pair of brothers on the rue Mouffetard.
Chef Antoine Westermann ran the three-star Alsatian restaurant Le Buerehiesel for nearly four decades before asking the Michelin Guide to remove them in 2007. Five years later, he opened Le Coq Rico at this location in Montmartre – a restaurant dedicated to serving well-raised heritage chickens (and other poultry). He found a partner to expand in New York, that partner kicked him out of the company, and he returned to rename this Montmartre location Le Coq et Fils. Backstory aside, this is… Read More »Le Coq et Fils
Dilia is a Paris bistro from Italian chef Michele Farnesi. He makes great pasta, but don’t expect a stereotypical roster of Italian dishes here. You’re much more likely to be offered roasted pigeon than puttanesca. Dilia sits on a pretty square in the 20th arrondissement and feels like an off-the-beaten-track charmer. Tables are set with candles and on top of one another. There’s an excellent wine list (and shop next door) that leans Italian and natural. Keep it in mind… Read More »Dilia
Anne is a one-star restaurant in the Marais at Le Pavillon de la Reine hotel. The kitchen is overseen by Mathieu Pacaud, son of Bertrand Pacaud, chef of the nearby three-star L’Ambroisie. Pacaud the younger has a history of “signing menus” at extravagant restaurants, many of them in luxury hotels. The food is delicious, but the main draw is the chance to dine in a beautiful courtyard that serves as the entrance to Le Pavillon de la Reine hotel. It’s… Read More »Anne
Clamato is a seafood-focused small plates restaurant from Bertrand Grébaut of Septime. Expect pristine marinated fish, platters of oysters, silky crab fritters (accrabes), and maple syrup pie for dessert. Wines are natural and well-selected, just like at Septime.
Acte II is a restaurant in the Marais from chef Masahide Ikuta. It pains me to say that I don’t recommend this restaurant, because it has one of the most beautiful views I’ve ever seen. When I came out of the elevator (you have to hunt and find one to reach this rooftop restaurant) I actually gasped to see the sun setting over the gorgeously glowing buildings of the Marais. However, the food is a muddled mess.
Chef Erica Parades opened this brick and mortar spot in 2022 after a stretch spent organizing pop-ups for her Filipino fusion cuisine. You’ll find fried chicken and what Emily Monaco described as the ultimate umami bomb – a dish of grilled hispi cabbage topped with sesame and gochujang-spiced mayonnaise and studded with bottarga shards.
We haven’t yet visited this location, but they’re part of the Nouvelle Garde group that includes Brasserie Dubillot and Brasserie Bellanger, which we recommend for affordable classic French food. Brasserie Martin is open every day, even in August. BRASSERIE MARTIN 24 Rue Saint-Ambroise, 75011Open every day from 9am to midnightReservations online or at +33 1 48 05 34 36 Their Instagram / Our Instagram
An all-day cafe in Sentier from Charles Compagnon, the serial restauranteur behind Le Richer and 52 Faubourg Saint-Denis. Café Compagnon is open early for breakfast and coffee and stays open until 11pm. A great place to pop in for a bite when strolling around the rue Montorgeuil, and one of the only Compagnon spots that accepts reservations. CAFÉ COMPAGNON 22-26 Rue Léopold Bellan, 75002 Open Monday-Friday from 8am-11pmOpen Saturday & Sunday from 9am-11pmReservations online or at +33 9 77 09 62 24… Read More »Café Compagnon
Denizens of eastern Paris feel lucky to live near Chanceux, an all-day café, restaurant, wine shop and épicerie that opened last year near the utterly charming Square Gardette. For breakfast you can get a fresh baguette with butter and homemade jam for 5 euros, or a wonderful plate with ham, Cantal cheese, a soft-boiled egg and toasts with buckwheat butter for 10 euros. For lunch, you can try the za’atar dusted brioche with hokkaido squash and chiles or a small… Read More »Chanceux
Treize au Jardin is a gorgeous spot for brunch, afternoon tea and cake, or early evening cocktails on a sun-dappled terrace across from the Luxembourg Gardens. Laurel Sanderson and Kajsa von Sydow made their name with brunch and desserts, but are now serving an expanded menu that includes fantastic salads and adult beverages to match their later opening hours. You can catch some rays on the outdoor terrace and bring home a bunch of flowers or a stack of brownies.… Read More »Treize au Jardin
Chef Amandine Chaignot has been a judge on the French show MasterChef for the better part of a decade. At her restaurant Pouliche, she puts out pretty plates for an Instagram crowd in a dining room that could be ripped from the pages of a West Elm catalog. The menu is heavy with vegetarian options – Wednesday is entirely vegetarian – and the space is filled with pretty young things. Portions are tiny. Read our full review of Pouliche. 11 Rue d’Enghien,… Read More »Pouliche
This classic, checkered tablecloth bistro with an excellent cheese plate.
Well-sourced products plus unlikely Japanese touches put Breizh Café head and shoulders above most crêperies.
Les Enfants du Marché, a modern & creative restaurant located within the open-air Marché des Enfants Rouges market in the upper Marais, is a dining counter known for natural wine and avant-garde cuisine. While the seating on bar stools in the bustling market might suggest a more lowbrow offering, the unforgettable plates evoke a far more fine dining affair (an evocation reflected in the highbrow prices). It is one of our favorite Paris restaurants.
One of the most fun restaurants in Paris can be found at the end of a cobblestone alley on the southern edge of Père Lachaise cemetery. Amagat, which means “hidden” in Catalan, requires some effort to find, but the experience is more than worth it. There’s a beautiful garden, but in the winter you’ll want to take a seat inside at the long counter where you can watch them prepare small plates (tapas) like ham croquetas, lamb chops marinated in… Read More »Amagat
Hardware Societe is a Melbourne-style cafe in Montmartre serving breakfast and lunch (brunch, if you must) in the shadow of the Sacré-Coeur. Friendly service and pretty outdoor seating make this an ideal spot before or after exploring the Montmartre hillside. 10 Rue Lamarck, 75018Open every day from 9:30am-3:30pmNo reservations
Augustin Marchand d’Vins – like Left Bank predecessors La Crêmerie & La Quincave – is a bare-bones cave-à-manger, a wine shop in which one can dine, slightly.
This popular restaurant and wine bar run by Drew Harre and Juan Sanchez is a sort of Anglo haven, excellent for a quick glass, a solo dinner at the bar, or for those times when you’re just tired of speaking French. The wine list at Fish la Boissonnerie is populated by small producers, many of them organic and bio-dynamic, with fair prices and plenty of options by the glass. They’re open every day, and we often find ourselves here on… Read More »Fish la Boissonnerie
Régis’ fantastic oysters come from the Marenne-Oleron and are available for dégustation on the spot in the sea blue dining room, to to take home.
There are so many casual wine bars serving good food in eastern Paris. Bouche stands out from the crowd because they’re a little more spacious, their staff is a smidge more friendly, and the dishes are a lot more interesting. It’s a wine bar in the 11th for people who are no longer in their twenties (like me). Open Sunday! We included Bouche among our 50 Favorite Restaurants in 2022. BOUCHE 85 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011Open Wednesday-Saturday for dinner onlyOpen… Read More »Bouche
Breizh Café is by far our favorite crêperie in Paris. Traditionalists like me, who always order a complète (ham, cheese, egg), appreciate the higher quality organic ingredients and the crispy lacy edges of their buckwheat galettes. More adventurous hunters can look to the daily and seasonal specials to top their galettes with upgrades like sea scallops and smoked duck breast. Dessert crêpes offer a few Japanese touches like ginger and yuzu alongside classic constructions with apples and ice cream. You can begin… Read More »Breizh Café Marais
When you’ve eaten your fill of French fare, give the fresh pasta from Norma a try. This Italian restaurant in the heart of the North Marais boasts a menu rich in both filled and non-filled pastas, including the paccheri alla norma with fried aubergines. A great choice for vegetarians that’s open for dinner on Monday nights (and lunch on both Sundays and Mondays). Norma is also famous for its egg “alla milanese” – an anchovy-scented Scotch-egg-like concoction comprised of a battered and… Read More »Norma
Le Collier de la Reine is a a trendy new spot for seafood in the northern Marais. Go for the oysters, fries and people watching. You might be tempted to stray from the seafood platter and order one of the cooked dishes. Don’t do it. Stick with the oysters, langoustines and other briny options, and be sure to order at least one side of fries – they might be the best in Paris. LE COLLIER DE LA REINE 57 Rue… Read More »Le Collier de la Reine
A restaurant run by a chef-in-residence is a difficult thing to review, but we’re gonna try. Welcoming a slate of visiting chefs from across the world, Early June is an airy, no-reservations restaurant just off the Canal Saint-Martin boasting a robust natural wine “list” (Yes, this is the sort of place where you’ll have to fight – hard – to see what’s on offer and may just have to capitulate and trust the somm). The funky-or-funkier wines accompany a selection of seasonal small plates… Read More »Early June
Brasserie Dubillot is an all-day spot for affordable French classics like oeuf-mayo, sausage & mash, and steak-frites. They’re open every day, even in August, and their continuous service from 9am to midnight makes them a good option for eating early with kids or late, after a show. They have sister locations in other neighborhoods called Brasserie Bellanger, Brasserie Martin and Brasserie des Prés.
Le Grand Bain was founded by chef Ed Delling-Williams (Au Passage, St-John) and has been reliably offering one of the most comprehensive menus of small plates in the capital on the vibrant rue Denoyez, just off the rue de Belleville. There have been many chef changes (his successor Emily Chia has also passed on), but some things seem remain the same: a funky list of natural bottles; friendly service that’s present without ever being obtrusive; a lengthy menu of offerings… Read More »Le Grand Bain
Bouillon République is a very affordable spot for classic French dishes. They’re open all day with continuous service, which makes them a good options for parents with young children or anyone else who needs to eat early. They also serve late, making them a good idea if you’re hungry after a concert. The restaurant is massive and can handle very large parties, so we’ve included them in our guide to Paris restaurants that are good for groups. BOUILLON RÉPUBLIQUE 39… Read More »Bouillon République
Colorful pastries (and some savory goods, too) at this vibrant and playful tea salon.
La Fontaine de Mars is a southwestern French bistro near the Eiffel Tower that got a lot of recognition when the Obamas visited during his presidency. It’s a good spot to try classic French dishes, but certain dishes like the cassoulet seem to have gone downhill over the years. They have a charming outdoor terrace in front of the fountain that gives this restaurant its name. LA FONTAINE DE MARS 129 rue Saint-Dominique, 75007Open every day for lunch and dinnerReservations… Read More »La Fontaine de Mars
Loulou is a restaurant based inside the Musée des Arts Décoratifs (part of the Louvre) with outdoor seating that looks upon the architecture of that building, the Tuileries garden, and the Eiffel Tower just beyond. The Italian menu includes dishes that are surprisingly good (artichoke salad, small pizzas) and others that are merely passable (veal chop à la Milanese). But the food isn’t why you come to Loulou. Come to drink rosé or on one of the loveliest terraces in… Read More »Loulou
A beautiful and expansive outdoor terrace tucked inside a hidden courtyard in the Marais, this is the Paris address of Mauro Colagreco, whose restaurant Mirazur was rated as the World’s Best in 2022. GrandCoeur offers a Mediterranean menu full of fresh fish, with a few vegetarian & carnivorous options. It’s open every day and is a good option for larger groups. Included among our 50 Favorite Restaurants in Paris. GRANDCOEUR 41 Rue du Temple, 75004Open every day for lunch and dinnerReservations… Read More »GrandCoeur
This mission-driven restaurant gives local farmers top billing and finally offers Paris a restaurant where omnivores are happy but vegetarians are king.
This vegan restaurant in the HOY hotel offers an enticing menu of Latin American-accented dishes.
Of Yves Camdeborde’s three Avant Comptoirs, this is the one worth making a special trip – a place where the scale of the site finally matches that Camdeborde’s ambition.
Avant Comptoir de la Mer is bistronomy chef Yves Camdeborde’s seafood variation on his successful adjacent pork-themed pintxo bar.
Brutos offers a contemporary dining experience with a South American accent and an exquisite rib steak for two.
Le Petit Sommelier is a rare high-quality non-stop brasserie with a 1000-reference-strong wine list.
Read an old travel guide to France, and you’ll likely find mention of les routiers. At these roadside restaurants catering to truckers, grub was classic, cheap, and good. And despite the absence of any highway running through the trendy 11th arrondissement, Aux Bons Crus evokes these restaurants of yore.
The picturesque Passage des Panoramas is home to this cozy Italian-accented spot with a short, simple menu and natural wine list.
Bouillon Pigalle offers cheap classic French food from noon to midnight, every single day.
L’Ami Louis is one of the most atmospheric restaurants in Paris. It’s dark and dramatic, with white jacketed servers bringing overflowing plates of snails, foie gras, and other classic French dishes. The roast chicken, with its accompanying tower of shoestring fries, is as good as everyone says it is. But L’Ami Louis is also one of the most clubby restaurants in Paris. It’s filled with regulars, it’s hard to get a table, and the prices are high enough to scare most tourists away. That’s probably by design. If you need to ask how much the roast chicken costs (it inches closer to 100 euros every year), then L’Ami Louis is probably not for you. It remains one of our favorite places in Paris, when someone else has gone to the trouble to book and ideally when someone else is paying.
This bistro is a standout in a neighborhood often defined by industrial cuisine.
Ten Belles’ new Left Bank outposts offers some of the charm and all of the flavor of the original.
The overarching honesty and generosity of La Vierge’s concept places the restaurant alongside overachieving peers like Belleville’s Le Cadoret at the vanguard of a new generation of Paris bistrot that recognizes the value of virtue.
Cyril Lignac’s seafood-focused restaurant replaces an 11th arrondissement neighborhood bistrot.
Breizh Café Batignolles is a crêperie located between the Parc Monceau and the Montmartre cemetery.
This wine bar stands out in the natural wine-staturated 11th arrondissement mainly for its ostentatious design.
Yves Camdeborde’s audacious, standing-room-only French pintxo bar is a jostling, jolly spot in Saint-Germain.
Well-sourced products plus unlikely Japanese touches put Breizh Café head and shoulders above most crêperies.
A scenester address with decent seafood and an incredible view of the Eiffel Tower. Service is slack, it’s nearly impossible to book, and it’s expensive. If you’re somehow able to get a reservation (these are rarely available online and they almost never answer the phone) go for the view and not the food.
Fresh off Paris’ greatest resto reboot of recent years – transforming the defunct destination Restaurant Bones into the beloved seven-day mainstay Restaurant Jones – chef-restaurateur Florent Ciccoli doubled down on the Voltaire neighborhood in late 2017, opening Café du Coin with the aid of frequent collaborator Greg Back (L’Orillon, Les Pères Populaires).
Three cheers to L’Entente founder Oliver Woodhead for having arrived at such an apt name for his curiously dainty, all-day- service “British brasserie” near Opéra. An entente is a diplomatic understanding between nations; any understanding, of course, is what British and French cultures have notably failed to acquire of one another over the last thousand years.Read More »L’Entente
Great natural wines by the glass, fresh well-prepared food, and congenial service at this simple bistro near Bastille.
Le Repaire de Cartouche is a great place to sit at the bar without reservations, order wine with a slab of terrine, and wait for your table to open up at Au Passage. It’s still great fun as a wine bar, even if it can no longer deliver as a restaurant.
At Café Méricourt, the interior is light and airy, the staff is among the friendliest in Paris, the loaves arrive daily from Ten Belles Bread, and the coffee, with beans sourced from an array of quality roasters, is reliably great. The food menu leans heavily vegetarian, with tasty options like shakshuka, green eggs and feta, or a daily green bowl. Their famous breakfast sandwich can be topped with bacon or avocado. Carnivores can tear into a delicious focaccia sandwich with… Read More »Café Méricourt
An offshoot of one our absolute favorites L’Office, you can stop by this former corner café at all hours of the day and night (sans reservation) for snacks, small plates, decent coffee, cocktails, or an evening meal.
After L’Office and Le Richer (one of our favorite new openings of 2013), Charles Compagnon is back with another gift for the Faubourg. If he has run out of ideas for restaurant names, the same cannot be said for the dishes coming out of his kitchen. The compact menu with 3-4 choices per course contains plenty that we want to eat: well-roasted duck with coco beans, corn and kale, and an egg yolk ravioli with ham and mushrooms that was satisfyingly reminiscent of one of… Read More »52 Faubourg Saint Denis
Freddy’s is a great call when you want to share some delicious nibbles and great wine while perched on a stool, especially at odd hours or on Sunday and Monday when many other places are closed.
If you want a taste of Gregory Marchand’s cooking without the challenge of scoring a reservation at Frenchie, this is where to go.
Pancakes, poached eggs and hearty seasonal fare served alongside excellent coffee sourced from Belleville Brûlerie in a sunny space along the Canal St. Martin. An international array of coffee preparations (flat whites, espressos, long blacks, cappuccinos, and very good “real deal” filtered coffee) are accompanied by hot chocolate made from homemade chocolate syrup and a selection of teas from Le Parti du Thé. The exceptionally friendly service is notable. Also notable, the lines for weekend brunch. Get there early.
Practical information Address: 72 rue de Rochechouart, 75009 Nearest transport: Anvers (2) Hours: Closed Monday & Tuesday; Open Wednesday-Sunday for lunch and dinner Reservations: Walk-Ins Welcome Telephone: 01 40 37 44 02 Average price for lunch: 20-39€ Average price for dinner: 20-39€ Style of cuisine: Italian & pizza Website Facebook Reviews of interest Alexander Lobrano (2015) “At Faggio, it wasn’t that anyone was unfriendly, but rather that no one was going to acknowledge that you’d had a long wait before being fed. And of course… Read More »Faggio
While the focus of this cheap and cheerful Japanese franchise is ostensibly the authentic tonkatsu ramen, the real highlight is the gyoza with a thick, crisp, seared crust and a juicy pork filling. The parent restaurant won the Prix du Concours National of Gyoza in Japan in 2004, and the dumplings truly are winners. The dining room is busy and the lines can be long, but the steaming bowls of ramen come out fast and are worth the wait. The counter seating on the bottom floor makes this a nice option for dining alone.
— Catherine Down, September 2015
Ob-La-Di might be the most Instagrammed café of the 2015 rentrée, but there’s real substance at this stylish spot in the Haut Marais. Most of the baked goods are made in-house, and many of them manage to be vegan and gluten-free, and still actually taste good. Coffee is expertly prepared with Lomi beans by Lloyd, formerly of Boot Café, who also curates a killer playlist most days. Creative offerings include an affogato made with cookie dough ice cream, horchata, a… Read More »Ob-La-Di Café
Practical information Address: 31 rue de Petits-Champs, 75001 Nearest transport: Pyramides (7, 14) Hours: Closed Tuesday; Open Wednesday-Monday for lunch and dinner Reservations: Reservations not accepted Telephone: 01 42 86 03 83 Average price for lunch: 10-19€ Average price for dinner: 10-19€ Style of cuisine: Japanese Facebook [slideshow_deploy id=’53272′] Reviews of interest L’Express (2011) “…nouvelle cantine de Little Japan qui place très haut la barre du ramen parisien…nouilles fraîches maison, bouillon de porc à la recette tenue secrète, miso de qualité, viande… Read More »Naritake
Manhattanite Jody Williams has brought her well-loved French “gastroteque” back to the city that inspired the original rustic-chic cafe.
Just steps from the Canal Saint-Martin, this shoebox-sized café is serving beautiful coffee with Anglo-inspired breakfast and lunch bites like scones, healthy sandwiches and sausage rolls.
Septime’s Bertrand Grébaut and Théo Pourriat converted a shoe-repair shop to open this intimate, impeccably-designed wine bar just around the corner from their renowned restaurant. The well-informed staff serve a limited menu of exquisite small plates (ranging from cheeses and cured meats to foie gras stuffed with smoked eel) alongside a sizeable selection of well-priced natural wines from France and abroad.
On any given evening a mixed crowd of locals and tourists – some waiting for tables at Clamato, others just enjoying apéro-hour – perch on bar stools and repurposed grocery crates, mingling to a soundtrack of reggae and vintage jazz classics. For years more a way-station than an outright destination, Septime Cave has since summer 2015 been open for business on Sundays, rendering it all the more indispensable to the rue de Charonne neighborhood.
Practical information Address: 10 avenue Iéna (in the Shangri-La hotel), 75016 Nearest transport: Iéna (9) Hours: Closed Tuesday & Wednesday; Open Thursday-Monday for lunch and dinner Reservations: Book a week or two in advance Telephone: 01 53 67 19 92 Average price for lunch: 52€ or 78€ Average price for dinner: More than 100€ Style of cuisine: Chinese, Haute cuisine Website Facebook Book Online Reviews of interest Figaroscope (2015) “En provenance directe de Canton, nouveau chef pour la table chinoise du palace.… Read More »Shang Palace
Meat is king at Au Boeuf Couronné, a restaurant across the street from the Parc de la Villette – the previous site of the Paris slaughterhouse. It’s a beautiful old brasserie and a reliable place for steak lovers in search of a slab. Open every day.
Part of the new wave of cafés, Coutume serves serious coffee drinks along with light & healthy lunch fare.
Practical information Address: 108 boulevard du Montparnasse, 75014 Nearest transport: Vavin (4), Edgar Quinet (6) Hours: Open every day for lunch and dinner Reservations: Book a day or two in advance Telephone: 01 43 35 25 81 Website Book Online What people are saying Not Drinking Poison in Paris (2015) “The upside of a city that trades on history, however, is the persistence of such majestic creations as Le Dôme’s airy millefeuille, gargantuan portions of which are hacked off a tree-trunk-sized… Read More »Le Dôme
The city’s most buttery, authentic crêpes served in an old-school dining room full of dark wood and Breton lace.
Bob (aka Marc Grossman)’s mini empire continues to expand with American style diner and bakery complete with pecan or lattice-topped cherry pie, Belleville Brulerie coffee, hand-rolled bagels and even their elusive brethren bialys. There’s a pretty lovely outdoor terrasse, too.
Lusty Basque fare, affordably priced. Arrive early (doors open at 7pm) to avoid a wait at this casual, no-reservations bistro run by chef Christian Etchebest.
This tiny, highly regarded Chinese restaurant veers from the usual family style format, offering a limited-choice, three-course menu.
This is one Chinese spot that doesn’t cater to the French palate. There are signs above the cash register that attest to this fact and warn about the potential gastronomic woes that could ensue after eating the pepper-laden Szechuan fare. Whether it’s soft Mapo tofu with crumbly pork bits or cold, sesame soaked cucumber salad, everything is slicked in fire oil, with an emphasis on the oil. I like this inexpensive, informal joint all the same (or perhaps because of it). Pork raviolis & spicy cabbage are two perennial favorites, and the broccoli with garlic provides a nice respite from the burn. You can choose your own heat level on a scale of 1-5 on most dishes. Level 3 is usually tongue-searingly warm enough for a spice lover. The restaurant is quite small so a larger group should plan to either eat early, book ahead, or take it to-go. Read More »Deux Fois Plus de Piment
The sandwiches at this shop — run by Juan Sanchez and Drew Harré of Fish — are made with a focaccia-like bread, right from the oven, with fresh fillings and plenty of vegetarian choices. Open every day.
This may just be the white whale of Parisian bars: good homemade food, good craft beer, friendly service, and big enough to gather a crowd without becoming uncomfortably crowded. Skip the Green Goose beer (a boring Belgian for happy hour purposes only) and discover the range of O’Hara’s on tap or one of the handful of Irish craft bottled beers – no industrial stout here. Settle in with a pint at one of the comfortable barstools or at a long communal table and don’t miss the lovingly prepared food at this excellent Irish gastropub, including Scotch eggs, a fair burger, and a big Sunday brunch. Read More »The Green Goose
This is no ordinary kebab joint: The bread at this Kurdish sandwich shop is made before your eyes, split and filled with lamb, beef, or chicken that’s been grilled to order, garnished simply with a few greens, red onion, sliced tomato and herbs.
A tiny Basque joint from the duo behind Les Fables de la Fontaine.Read More »Pottoka
At Le Relais de L’Entrecôte, the choices are steak or steak, and the supply of golden fries is unending. Which is how the line to be seated will seem unless you go early. Included in our list of Five Great Steak Frites in Paris. Three locations.
A crowd queues at this sliver of a taqueria off the canal for Claudia and Alejandro’s tacos, burritos and quesadillas. There are only two stools in the tiny place, so plan on taking it to go.
Practical information Address: 111 rue St. Lazare, 75008 Nearest transport: Saint-Lazare (3, 12, 13) Hours: Closed Monday & Tuesday Reservations: Walk-ins Welcome Telephone: 01 43 87 50 40 Average price for lunch: 40-59€ Average price for dinner: 60-100€ Style of cuisine: Classic French, oysters/shellfish, seafood Reviews of interest Time Out (2012) “Some loyal patrons never get beyond the oyster bar or the fresh shellfish buffet, while others reliably order the lobster from the tank or salad with balsamic vinegar and lightly spice… Read More »Garnier
Practical information Address: 46 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, 75009 Nearest transport: Le Peletier (7) Hours: Open every day for lunch and dinner Reservations: Walk-Ins Welcome Telephone: 01 45 23 10 21 Average price for lunch: 10-19€ Average price for dinner: 10-19€ Style of cuisine: Chinese Website Facebook Additional location Address: 3 rue de Turbigo, 75001 Nearest transport: Étienne Marcel (4) Hours: Open every day for lunch and dinner Telephone: 01 40 13 08 04 Reviews of interest Table à Découvert (2013) “Tout est mélangé et… Read More »Les Pâtes Vivantes
The original L’Atelier, in what’s now a global empire.
Epicure is a fine dining restaurant inside Le Bristol hotel. It’s led by chef Éric Fréchon and currently holds three Michelin stars. Chef Éric Fréchon has a lot of fans, so I was expecting something great when I visited in 2014. The cooking, while enjoyable, didn’t offer anything new. The setting lacked soul. It occupies a very similar niche to Le Cinq but didn’t measure up. Fréchon’s cuisine plays it a little too safe for my taste. A dish of raw… Read More »Epicure
It’s all about the bon produits at Le Bon Georges: beef from Alexandre Polmard, sustainable seafood from small-scale fishermen, market fresh veg from Joël Thibault, and vins de propriétés. The menu changes each day at this brand new, but classically beautiful bistro.
Practical information Address: 91 boulevard Beaumarchais, 75003 Nearest transport: Saint-Sébastien-Froissart (8) or Chemin Vert (8) Hours: Open every day for lunch & dinner Reservations: Book a day or two in advance Telephone: 01 42 78 11 96 Average price for lunch: 20-39€ Average price for dinner: 20-39€ Style of cuisine: Italian, pizza, vegetarian options Website [slideshow_deploy id=’57417′] Reviews of interest Le Fooding (2015) “On vient autant chez Grazie pour les cocktails de folie, secoués derrière le massif comptoir par Ricardo et… Read More »Grazie
The people behind Candelaria are back with a new place serving wild oysters by the piece, outstanding small plates, serious cocktails, natural wine, and craft beer.
With its bright, bare-bones kitchen, crowded counter, communal table, and addictive salsas — all mercifully un-Frenchified — this upper Marais spot has officially changed the game, and people are lining up for tacos and agua fresca. Go through the unmarked door next to the stove and you’ll find a serious bar, staffed by Experimental Cocktail Club grads.
The market at Les Halles is long gone, but its legacy is still in evidence at Chez Denise, an old-school meat joint that’s open late. Expect to find steak, bone marrow, frisée salad on these red & white checked tablecloths. Come hungry, and don’t expect to be fussed over.
– Meg Zimbeck, 2010
Cheap, messy and seemingly obligatory. The line-averse should probably avoid it on a Sunday afternoon.
Practical information Address: 11 rue Bernard Palissy, 75006 Nearest transport: St. Germain-des-Pres (4) Hours: Open every day from 10am-6pm Reservations: Walk-ins Welcome Telephone: 01 45 44 02 52 Average price for lunch: 10-19€ Style of cuisine: Eggs, classic French, vegetarian options Website Reviews of interest Le Figaro (2009) “… des œufs sous toutes leurs formes: mollets, brouillés, au plat…il ne reste plus qu’à choisir le fond, la façon de les accommoder: herbes, jambon, fromages, champignons, au total 29 possibilités…” Food &… Read More »Eggs & Co.
