Quedubon

Quedubon restaurant in Paris | parisbymouth.com

You can call Quedubon a bistro or a wine bar or a cave. All apply to this address near the beautiful Parc des Buttes Chaumont. The simple food ranges from light (capriccios of fresh fish) to homey (braised meats) to downright offal (veal brains), and is washed down by one of the vins naturels that populate the impressive wine list maintained by Gilles Bénard. Owing in part to the non-central location, there’s a village-like feeling to this friendly place.

 An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 22 rue du Plateau, 75019
Nearest transport: Buttes Chaumont (7bis)
Hours: Closed Sunday & Monday; Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch and dinner; Open Saturday for dinner only
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 42 38 18 65
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 20-39€
Style of cuisine: Bistro
Website

Reviews of interest

Le Fooding “La rue du Plateau n’a rien pour elle. Ah ! si : Quedubon, qui justifie à lui seul la rando. Grâce à Gilles Bénard, ancienne tête d’affiche de Ramulaud dans le 12e (toujours un mot par-ci, une main sur l’épaule par-là…), à la cuisine qu’on y sert (super palette de porc croustillante avec ses p’tits légumes croquants, parfait moelleux aux mirabelles…) et aux vins soigneusement sélectionnés, dont la vaste ardoise couvre tout un mur de l’espace lofté.”

Patricia Wells (2011) “How to decide between the braised oxtail with orange and an avalanche of fragrant and delicious carrots and baby turnips; moist roast pork with mounds of soft and succulent cabbage; farm chicken with braised endive? A few glasses of Jean Foillard’s raspberry-rich Morgon Côtes de Py helped take off the January chill…”

Not Drinking Poison in Paris (2010) “Some delicious raw sardine filets marinated in coriander (8eu), followed by kind of a middling joue du bœuf croustillant in red wine sauce… But: that blackboard-scrawled wine list. It deserves much appreciation. Infrequent gaps and thumb-smudges testified to its being edited nightly, on the fly. No shortage of excellent names…”

Gilles Pudlowski (2010) “Dans ce qu’on mange chez lui, tripaille cousine avec ripaille… dans l’amusant tartare de langoustine marié au carpaccio de pied de porc, la salade de lentilles avec magret séché et rondelles d’oignons..On cite, mais on sait que ça change tout le temps, chez Bénard.

John Talbott (2008) “Nice reception, nice place, incredible list of very cheap wines… Ardoise bigger than most wine bars. I ordered a “small” (read huge) platter of charcuterie and a souris (huge) of lamb. The charcuterie was wonderful…the butter was not Bordier but Echine, but why the crappy bread and faux-Laguiole knife? Plus the lamb was not spring lamb but aged mutton…”

Chroniques du Plaisir (2007) “Et c’est vrai qu’elle est bonne cette cuisine de ménage au goût du jour qui ne tergiverse ni avec vos sens, ni avec votre appétit. De quoi tenir tête aux adresses dans le vent, siphonner vite fait la clientèle alentour et en remontrer aux additions des beaux quartiers…”

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