Tag Archives: 75005

Bombardier English pub in Paris | Paris by Mouth

The Bombardier

A hub for English culture, this pub proudly pours “real ales” from Wells & Young’s, beers in classic English styles you won’t find elsewhere in Paris. Traditional English pub fare is served at lunch and a full English breakfast is offered on weekends. With rugby and soccer/football matches on TV and a pub quiz every Sunday, it would be easy to think you were in England.  Continue reading

académie de la bière Paris beer bar

Académie de la Bière

Long a favorite among students, the bustling “Beer Academy” is a worthwhile stop for any enthusiast of Belgian beer.  On tap or bottled, the beer offerings are predominantly Belgian, with a few French, German, and Czech options for good measure.  Food is served at all hours of the day, and the two large patios are covered and heated in the winter.  Service can be slow, but the bartenders and servers are beer lovers themselves, so don’t hesitate to ask for recommendations.

Practical information

Address: 88 bis boulevard de Port Royal, 75005
Nearest transport: Port Royal (RER B), Raspail (4, 6)
Hours: Sunday-Thursday 10:00am-2:00am, Friday-Saturday 10:00am-3:00am (happy hour 3:30pm-7:30pm)
Telephone: 01 43 54 66 65
Average price for beer: 8€ for pints (5.50€ during happy hour), 6-7€ for 33cl bottles
Number of taps: 12
Average price for food: 8-15€
Food options: mussels, sausages, salads, tartines, planches
Website

Additional reviews

Académie de la Bière page on Beer Advocate

Photo by Camille Malmquist

L’Envol Québécois

Run by a quiet but goofily friendly Québécois (with the accent to prove it), this cozy spot is one of the only places in Paris to find Canadian brews like La Fin du Monde or St. Ambroise. The shelves are lined with jugs of maple syrup and the walls decorated with snowshoes. Stacks of books, puzzles, and board games (including an all-but-unknown-in-France cribbage board!) make it easy to while away a few hours in convivial company.

Practical information

Address: 30 Rue Lacépède, 75005
Nearest transport: Place Monge (7)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 6:00pm-2:00am
Telephone: 01 45 35 53 93
Average price for beer: 6-8€ for pints, 9-10€ for 34 cl bottles
Number of taps: 7
Average price for food: 15-17€
Food options“hambourgeois”, plat du jour

Reviews of Interest

Presentement (2012) “A la carte et selon les arrivages, des bières de brasseurs québécois… Malgré leur prix élevée (8€ les 33cl), on se laisse enivrer par leur goût unique.”

Caves du Panthéon

Nearly 100 years old, this shop offers stacks and stacks of estate-bottled wines from all regions of France.

Practical information

Address: 174 rue Saint Jacques, 75005
Nearest transport: Cluny – La Sorbonne (10) or Luxembourg (RER B)
Hours: closed Sunday
Telephone: 01 46 33 90 35

Reviews of interest

Dr. Vino (2007) “…would be ‘worth a journey’ if Michelin rated wine shops…”

Wine Terroirs (2007) “…this caviste gathers more artisan wines than you’ll probably need. Very good selection, including some upcoming winemakers…”

Brewberry beer shop Paris

Brewberry

A true beer geek’s paradise, Cécile Delorme’s shop near the tourist- and student-friendly rue Mouffetard stocks hundreds of different beers from traditional Belgian and German to cult favorite Danish and Norwegian.  A rotating selection of beers are stocked cold for immediate consumption, but any bottle you like can be chilled in her fridge.  Bottle prices remain the same whether taken seated on the small patio or to go.  The collection here is deep, and staff are only too happy to advise and guide your selections.

Practical information

Address: 18 rue du Pot de Fer, 75005
Nearest transport: Place Monge (7)
Hours: Tuesday 3pm-9pm, Wednesday-Saturday 12:30pm-11pm, Sunday 12pm-9pm. Closed Monday.
Telephone: 01 43 36 53 92
Average price for beer: 4-8€ for 33 cl bottles, 10-20€ for 50-75 cl bottles
Number of taps: none
Notable brews: Green Flash (USA), Nogne (Norway), Rooie Dop (Netherlands), Brasserie de la Senne (Belgium)
Average price for food: 5-12€
Website

Reviews of interest

Brewberry page on Beer Advocate

Le Porte-Pot

Le Porte-Pot

Practical information

Address: 14 rue Boutebrie, 75005
Nearest transport: Cluny – La Sorbonne (10)
Hours: Evenings, Tuesday-Saturday
Reservations: Reservations not necessary
Telephone: 01 43 25 24 24
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Wine bar / small plates / tapas

Reviews of interest

The Guardian (2010) “There’s an old-fashioned zinc bar, and an ancient vaulted cellar transformed into a dining room…The cuisine is a mix between exotic fusion – imagine whelks with wasabi mayonnaise – and traditional rural food…”

Figaroscope (2008) “…cinquantaine de vins plutôt nature mais sans excès…de simples assiettes bistrotières et des tartines généreuses à partir de bons produits…”

Pierre Jégu (2008) “…la maison cueille ses fromages, sa cochonnaille, son andouille fumée au lard ou ses sardines millésimées chez quelques pointures d’artisans. Aucun danger non plus côté cave, bio-naturo-dynamique.”

Paris Terroirs

This organic wine shop has locations in the 5th and 11th.

Practical information

Address: 57 rue Monge, 75005
Nearest transport: Place Monge (7)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 11am-1:30pm and 4pm-8:30pm; Sunday, 10:30am-1:30pm; closed Monday
Telephone: 01 46 33 32 65
Website

Additional Locations

Address: 68 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011
Nearest transport: Parmentier (3)
Telephone: 01 43 57 92 97

Reviews of interest

Wine Terroirs (2007) “…well-thought wine list here with lots of artisan wines and natural wines…nice staff too.”

 

 

 

Deliziefollie Gelato Paris Photo  atk1983 Flickr

Deliziefollie

The gelato comes in many colors at Deliziefollie, including some not found in nature.

Practical information

Address: 7 rue Montorgeuil, 75001
Nearest transport: Les Halles (4)
Hours: Open every day
Telephone: 01 40 26 06 00

Additional locations

Address: 26 rue Saint Andre des Arts, 75006
Nearest transport: Saint Michel (4, RER B, C)
Hours: Open every day
Telephone: 01 55 42 99 92

Reviews of interest

Chrisos (2007) “Loin d’être le paradis Deliziefollie…”

Photo via atk1983’s Flickr (Hiroshi Ataka)

le bon bon au palais photo facebook

Le Bonbon au Palais

The tall glass jars in this bright and airy shop are filled with colorful artisanal candies from around France — pastilles, calissons, pâtes de fruit, chocolates — and plenty of nostalgia.

An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 19 rue Monge, 75005
Nearest transport: Cardinal Lemoine (10)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 11am-7:30pm; closed Sunday and Monday
Telephone: 01 78 56 15 72
Website Facebook

Reviews of interest

Time Out (2012) “Shopkeeper Georges Marques is the enthusiastic schoolteacher eager to take his students on a sugar-dusted tour of the country. Apothecary jars of different shapes and sizes hold artisanal sweets from all over France – the lilac-shaded Jacqueline from Dijon, an almond paste-stuffed meringue; the deep pink chocolate Papaline from Avignon; pralines from the Loiret; foil-wrapped barley sugar from Vichy; and a host of stuffed plums, confit clementines, crystallised flowers and jelly buttons in Crayola shades.”

François-Régis Gaudry (2011) “…plus de 200 bonbons régionaux…Georges connaît chacun de ses trésors par coeur, et vous les raconte avec force anecdotes.”

David Lebovitz (2011) “A dedicated collection of candies from across France….candies that French kids would remember fondly.”

Photo via Le Bonbon au Palais’ Facebook

Gelati d'Alberto Paris Photo Gelati d'Alberto Facebook

Gelati d’Alberto

Your choice of flavors will be formed into a colorful rose shape at this popular gelato shop.

Practical information

Address: 45 rue Mouffetard, 75005
Nearest transport: Place Monge (7)
Hours: Open every day
Telephone: 01 77 11 44 55
Website

Additional locations

Address: 12 rue des Lombards, 75004
Nearest transport: Chatelet (1, 4, 7, 11, 14)
Hours: Open every day
Telephone: 01 77 11 44 55

Reviews of interest

Time Out (2012) “Once you’ve tasted the classic flavours, try the Nutella, green tea or even the vodka Red Bull varieties. The more flavours you choose, the prettier your ice cream flower becomes. On a sunny day, rows of expectant ice cream buyers snake their way along Rue Mouffetard, so be prepared to queue.”

Figaroscope (2010) “Alberto, c’est le poète du froid, l’homme qui perpétue la tradition familiale et sculpte ses glaces italiennes à la spatule, leur donnant des formes de pétales de rose…

Photo courtesy of Gelati d’Alberto’s Facebook

Franck Kestener photo Facebook

Franck Kestener

This Lorraine-based chocolatier (a Meilleur Ouvrier de France) opened a boutique in Paris in late 2010. Before that, the only place to get his famed Atlantique tablet in town was À l’Etoile d’Or. His macarons and chocolate dipped cookies are exceptional, too.

 An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 7 rue Guy Lussac, 75005
Nearest transport: Cluny-La Sorbonne (10) or Luxembourg (RER B)
Hours: Open every day
Telephone: 01 43 26 40 91
Website Facebook

Reviews of interest

David Lebovitz (2011) “I am hooked on l’Atlantique, an exquisite square of dark chocolate with crispy shortbread and gooey salted caramel layered inside… next time I plan on taking a stroll through the Luxembourg Gardens, I know just where to stop for something to snack on for my walk.”

Le Figaro (2010) “Autre installation qui va faire du bruit : celle de Franck Kestener. Ce jeune prodige de la chocolaterie, MOF depuis 2004 et champion du monde de pâtisserie par équipe en 2006, débarque enfin à Paris. Jusque-là, il fallait aller jusqu’à Sarreguemines (Moselle) pour goûter à ses créations.”

Kerrin Rousset (2010) “Among the country’s best chocolatiers, yet he somehow escapes the spotlight… my long-time favorite bar, his Atlantique. It’s simply irresistible: dark chocolate, buttery shortbread and salted caramel.”

Photo courtesy of Franck Kestener’s Facebook

Sugarplum Cake Shop Photo Meg Zimbeck

Sugarplum Cake Shop

This wedding cake bakery has a café in front, serving house made American-style treats, and – whoa! – free refills on drip coffee.

Practical information

Address: 68 rue Cardinal Lemoine, 75005
Nearest transport: Cardinal Lemoine (10) or Place Monge (7)
Hours: Closed Monday; Tuesday-Sunday, 12-7 pm
Telephone: 01 46 34 07 43
Website Facebook

Reviews of interest

Caroline Mignot (2014) “Chocolat chaud très, très chocolaté et délicieux, jus d’agrumes fraîchement pressés et gâteaux simples et bons.”

Good Coffee in Paris (2013) “I had never really considered the coffee making potential of a Parisian café whose main preoccupation was baking, since almost every other place in Paris sharing this feature had always proven to be less than satisfactory in the coffee department. Sugarplum Cake Shop turned out to be a delicious exception to this rule…Sugarplum decided to invest in a great little La Marzocco coffee machine, in barista training for certain staff members, and in the right kind of beans. This has paid off, and while coffee is not their main focus, they do it really well (they have a flat white on the menu), and with real milk.”

David Lebovitz (2011) “Like the laid-back coffee shops in the states, there’s big, wide tables to share with others, or to spread out with your laptop or newspaper (French or English), and enjoy a wedge of cake or a pecan bar along with a tall glass of housemade unsweetened iced tea…the organic coffee is good, too – and refills are included.”

Androuet Cheese Shop Photo Meg Zimbeck

Androuet

This historic cheese shop (and affineur) has been around since 1909, is still family owned, and has several locations around Paris.

 An absolute favorite 

Practical information

Address: 134 rue Mouffetard, 75005
Nearest transport: Censier-Daubenton (7)
Hours: Tuesday-Friday 9.30 am-1 pm and 4-7.30 pm; Saturday 9.30 am to 7.30 pm; Sunday 9.30 a.m.-1.30 pm; Closed Monday
Telephone: 01 45 87 85 05
Website Facebook

Additional locations

Address: 37 rue de Verneuil, 75007
Nearest transport: rue du Bac (12)
Hours: Monday 4 pm.-7.30 pm; Tuesday-Saturday 9.30 am.-1 pm and 4-7.30 pm; Closed Sunday
Telephone: 01 42 61 97 55

Address: 93 rue Cambronne, 75015
Nearest transport: Vaugirard (12)
Hours: Tuesday-Friday, 9.30 am -1 pm and 4-7.30 pm; Saturday, 9.30 am -7.30 pm; Sunday 9.30 am -1.30 pm; Closed Monday
Telephone: 01 47 83 32 05

Address: 17 rue des Belles-Feuilles, 75016
Nearest transport: Victor Hugo (2)
Hours: Monday 4-7:30 pm.; Tuesday-Friday 9:30 am-1 pm and 4-7:30 pm; Saturday 9:30 am-7.30 pm; Sunday 9.30 am-1.30 pm
Telephone: 01 45 05 11 77

Address: 1 rue Bois le Vent, 75016
Nearest transport: Muette (9)
Hours: Tuesday-Friday 8:30 am-1 pm and 4-7.00 pm; Saturday 8.30 am-7.00 pm; Sunday 8.30 am.-1.30 pm; Closed Monday
Telephone: 01 42 24 17 52

Address: 23 rue de la Terrasse, 75017
Nearest transport: Villiers (2, 3)
Hours: Tuesday-Friday 9.30 am to 1 pm and 4-7.30 pm; Saturday 9.30- 7.30 pm.; Sunday 9.30 am-1.30 pm; Closed Monday
Telephone: 01 47 64 39 20

Reviews of interest

Meg Zimbeck (2012) “The ultimate French cheese shop…The historic Androuet fromagerie has been sourcing and maturing exceptional cheeses since 1909. Their shop on rue Mouffetard is staffed by friendly English-speakers who will be happy to explain and vacuum-seal your selections.”

 

 

laurent dubois photo facebook

Laurent Dubois

Laurent Dubois is a Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF), the highest designation for a cheesemonger and affineur in France. Especially strong in their selection of aged Comté, brebis from the Pyrenées, and small production chèvres. In the caves below the shop, Dubois ages a few cheeses well past the point where other affineurs (and the AOC system) are willing to go – a Sainte-Maure de Tourraine at 100 days, for example, and an extra old Fourme d’Ambert. In-house creations like Roquefort layered with quince paste and Camembert stuffed with marscapone and apples macerated in Calvados make for the perfect dessert.

 An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 47 boulevard Saint-Germain, 75005
Nearest transport: Maubert-Mutualité (10)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 8:30am-7:30pm; Sunday, 8:30am-1pm; closed Monday
Telephone: 01 43 54 50 93
Website Facebook

Additional locations

Address: 2 rue de Lourmel, 75015
Nearest transport: Dupleix (6)
Hours: Tuesday-Friday, 9am-1pm and 4pm-7:45; Saturday, 8:30am-7:45pm; Sunday, 9am-1pm; closed Monday
Telephone: 01 45 78 70 58

Address: 97-99 rue Saint-Antoine, 75004
Nearest transport: Saint-Paul (1)
Hours: Open Tuesday-Saturday 9am-8pm and Sunday 9am-1pm; Closed Mondays
Telephone: 01 48 87 27 10

Reviews of interest

Jennifer Greco (2011) “Monsieur and Madame Dubois and the staff at both of their shops are incredibly passionate and quite happy to share their knowledge with you…They offer almost the same selection, but the ambiance of the two older shops is considerably different. The shop in the 15th has the feel of a local, neighborhood place, while the one in the 5th on the Boulevard Saint-Germain caters more toward tourists.”

Ann Mah (2011) “I really love stopping here, chatting with the vendeurs, and spending my hard-earned centimes on a morsel of perfect cheese…”

Photo via Laurent Dubois’ Facebook page

carl marletti tarte au citron

Carl Marletti

A jewel box of a pâtisserie, just off of rue Mouffetard.

Practical information

Address: 51 Rue Censier, 75005
Nearest transport: Censier-Daubenton (7)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 10am-8pm, Sunday 10am-1:30pm; Closed Monday
Telephone: 01 43 31 68 12
Website Facebook

Reviews of interest

Time Out (2012) “Carl Marletti is past master at creating beautiful delicacies for greedy aesthetes… His creations (around €5 a piece) are exquisite and brightly coloured, often classic pastries lifted by floral notes… His lemon tart, was named the best in Paris in 2010 and is worth a visit in itself, as are his speciality vanilla millefeuilles.”

Paris Patisseries (2011) “Among all my favorite no ******** patissiers, Carl Marletti is the standout. I ate every pastry he sold, and not once was there a pointless anything – in or on his work. There was some silver leaf and a few dragees, of course, but those were simply subtle pieces of flare. All other garnishes, no matter how small, were flavored. Every nut, every piece of fruit, every piping of crème had a purpose. And, as you can see in these photos, the man certainly knew how to take the core elements of the flavor palate he’d chosen and bring them to life aesthically.”

Dorie Greenspan (2008) “The edges of the cookies taste and melt in your mouth as though they are made of butter, and only butter. They’re incredibly fragile, but also crisp. Then there’s the center of the cookies – a translucent caramel with nuts. I’ve never seen cookies like these…but I’d be happy to see them everywhere.”

Photo by Camille Malmquist

Le Mayflower

This comfortable pub at the top of rue Mouffetard pours a rotating selection of well-known Belgian beers like Chimay, Maredsous, and Delirium. If you’re feeling peckish, you can order one of an array of dried sausages, which are served with a cutting board and a knife. It’s a good place to stop for a cheap (for that hood) pint after a day exploring the Arènes de Lutèce, or for an irresponsible late night after bowling.

Practical information

Address: 49 Rue Descartes, 75005
Nearest transport: Cardinal Lemoine (10), Place Monge (7)
Hours: Sunday-Thursday 4:00pm-2:00am,  Friday-Saturday 4:00pm-5:00am. Happy hour 4:00pm-9:30pm.
Telephone: 01 56 24 27 21
Average price for beer: 8€ for pints. 5.50€ during happy hour.
Number of taps: 12
Average price for food: 4.50€
Food options: sausages
Website

sadaharu aoki photo meg zimbeck

Sadaharu Aoki

Master  pâtissier Sadaharu Aoki combines French techniques and Japanese flavors.

Practical information

Address: 35 rue de Vaugirard, 75006
Nearest transport: Saint-Placide (4)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 11am-7pm, Sunday 10am-6pm; Closed Monday
Telephone: 01 45 44 48 90
Website Facebook

Additional Locations

Address: 56 boulevard de Port Royal, 75005
Nearest transport: Les Gobelins (7)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 10am-7pm, Sunday 10am-6pm; Closed Monday
Telephone: 01 45 35 36 80

Address: 25 rue Pérignon, 75015
Nearest transport: Ségur (10)
Hours: Monday-Saturday 11am-7pm; Closed Sunday
Telephone: 01 43 06 02 71

Reviews of interest

Rosa Jackson (2012) “Japanese cake guru, Sadaharu Aoki, mixes flavours from the East with traditional French pastry ingredients to come up with some of the most surprising (and delicious) cakes in Paris.  For those less adventurous, his traditional mille-feuille (vanilla slice) and fraisier (strawberry cake) are perfection incarnate. Or if you fancy something new, try inventions like the Kimagure (choux pastry, vanilla cream, matcha and azuki beans); or the Saya (strawberry mousse with pistachio crème-brûlée and strawberry macaroon).”

Paris Pâtisseries (2011) “I was quick to grab a black sesame éclair (a classic!), but I also spotted a new entrant into la gamme – the Sudachi…It’s a mélange of lemon, mandarin orange and pine, quite acidic and 100% delightful. All the layers of gateau and crème were textbook excellence, as well.”

Dorie Greenspan (2010) “…the lovely young woman who sold me this ice cream sandwich at Patisserie Sadaharu Aoki.  The ice cream is my favorite Aoki flavor, black sesame, a marvel, and the cookie is a thin, not-very-sweet (which means perfect) chocolate sable (or shortbread).”

Gilles Pudlowski (2010) “Ses biscuits sont faussement simples et ses cakes, financiers, florentines, cookies, confitures « pur fruit » et sans sucre excessif, sont à fondre. Tout ce qu’il propose possède aussi bien le look moderne que la fibre japonaise donc légère. Et la magie n’est jamais absente de ses douces créations.”

Dorie Greenspan (2009) “Also new are these macarons a la rusk from Sadaharu Aoki.  They’re the shells that would normally be filled to make macarons, brushed with butter, sprinkled with sugar and baked again, so that they’re drier and crunchier than macarons.  In other words, they’re macaron biscotti. And they’re fun.”

Aux Merveilleux de Fred via auxmerveilleux.com

Aux Merveilleux de Fred

The specialty at this Lille import are the “Merveilleux” — mounds of crisp meringue enrobed by whipped cream.

Practical information

Address: 129 bis rue Saint Charles, 75015
Nearest transport: Charles Michels (10)
Hours:Closed Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday, 7:30am.-8pm; Sunday, 7:30 am-7 pm
Telephone: 01 45 79 72 47
Website Facebook

Additional Locations

Address: 29 rue de l’Annonciation, 75016
Nearest transport: La Muette (9)
Hours: Closed Monday; Tuesday-Sunday, 9 a.m-7:30 pm
Telephone: 01 45 20 13 82

Address: 7 rue de Toqueville, 75017
Nearest transport: Villiers (2, 3)
Hours :Closed Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday, 10 am-8 pm; Sunday, 10 am-7 pm
Telephone: 01 42 27 86 63

Address: 2 rue Monge, 75005
Nearest transport: Maubert-Mutualité (10)
Hours: Closed Monday
Telephone: 01 43 54 63 72

Reviews of interest

David Lebovitz (2014) “Slathered between two crunchy meringues is a rich cream filling, precisely thick enough to hold the meringues together. The individual cakes are spread with a whisper-thin layer of cream and encrusted with a blizzard of shaved chocolate. The first time I tasted one, I bought a box to share with a friend. But I made the mistake of tasting one before he arrived (or he made the mistake of being late) and by the time he got there, all that was left were a few crumbs of meringue.”

Lindsey Tramuta (2014) “Unlike most on-trend patisseries that perpetually roll out limited-edition flavors, Mr. Vaucamp keeps his meringues focused, offering a compact but beautifully executed selection of six flavors, from the classic, rolled in dark chocolate, to the more original, like cherry and speculoos (spiced Belgian biscuits).”

David Lebovitz (2011) “Each merveilleux is layers of croquant meringue and lightly sweetened whipped cream, and comes in just three flavors: chocolate, coffee, and speculoos (spiced). I think if Aux Merveilleux de Fred decided to open anywhere else, be it the Marais or Dubuque, Iowa, they would have lines around the block.”

Caroline Mignot (2011) “Certes, c’est sucré, c’est riche, mais finalement assez léger, sorte de nuage de meringue et de crème qui se laisse déguster sans l’ombre d’un remord (surtout le spéculoos).”

Gregory Renard by Barbra Austin

Grégory Renard

The chocolate here is fine… the macarons are exceptional and exceptionally priced at one euro a piece. His version of the salted butter caramel macaron is our favorite in the city, and he’s got a real gift for balancing floral and tart flavors to keep them (rose, violet, poppy flower) from tasting like soap. Not to be missed.

 An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 120 rue St. Dominique, 75007
Nearest transport: Ècole Militaire (8) or Pont de l’Alma (RER C)
Hours: closed Sunday, closed Monday
Telephone: 01 47 05 19 17
Website

Additional Locations

Address: 35 rue Daubenton, 75005
Nearest transport: Censier-Daubenton (7)
Hours: closed Sunday
Telephone: 01 47 07 37 51

La Bague de Kenza by Barbra Austin

La Bague de Kenza

Make a pot of mint tea or strong black coffee and bite into these fragrant, sticky-sweet Algerian pastries.

Practical information

Address: 106 rue Saint Maur, 75011
Nearest transport: Parmentier (3)
Hours: Every day 9am-10pm
Telephone: 01 43 14 93 15

Additional locations

Address: 233 rue de la Convention, 75015
Nearest transport: Convention (12)
Telephone: 01 42 50 02 97

Address: 70 rue de Turbigo, 75003
Nearest transport: Temple
Telephone: 01 44 61 06 39

Address: 173 rue du Faubourg St-Antoine, 75012
Nearest transport: Faidherbe-Chaligny
Hours: Monday-Thursday 11am-8pm, Friday 1:30pm-9pm, Saturday 10am-9pm, Sunday 10am-8pm
Telephone: 01 43 41 47 02

Address: 31 rue Linné, 75005
Nearest transport: Jussieu (7,10)
Telephone: 01 45 87 02 04

Address: 136 rue Saint Honoré, 75001
Nearest transport: Louvre-Rivoli (1)
Hours: Saturday-Thursday 10am-8pm, Friday 2:30pm-8:00pm
Telephone: 01 42 86 85 23

Reviews of interest

Barbra Austin (2009) “Sticky honey, rich nuts, the crunch of semolina, the perfume of orange and roses, chewy dates, rose:  These are the themes upon which the the variations of Algerian sweets are built.  And they are sweet:  The honey in some of them is dizzying, toothache-inducing. I mean that in a good way.”

Caroline Mignot (2009) “…je pense que cela fera plaisir aux amateurs voisins. A savoir aussi, on peut commander un couscous (pour 6 personnes minimum) ou un tajine à emporter. On retrouve toujours ces galettes salées à dévorer et bien sûr ces étages de pâtisseries algériennes.”

Clotilde Dusoulier (2006) “It’s okay not to know the names of all (or any) of the little guys: the staff often caters to novices, so you can just smile and point, or ask for an assortment… their confections show a subtlety and balance that clearly set them apart from the cloying, oily specimens one occasionally comes across. And because the shop is renowned and popular, their turnover is high and their selection correspondingly fresh.”

La Parisienne by Meg Zimbeck

La Parisienne

Baker Daniel Pouphary finished second in the 2010 Grand Prix de la Baguette.

Practical information

Address: 28 rue Monge, 75005
Nearest transport: Cardinal Lemoine (10)
Hours: Closed Saturday and Sunday

Reviews of interest

Meg Zimbeck for Budget Travel (2010) “Don’t miss Pouphary’s unusual variety of croissants, including noix de coco (coconut) and chocolat lait noisette (milk chocolate and hazelnut)…”

Best Baguette (Grand Prix de la Baguette de Tradition Française de la Ville de Paris) 2nd place in 2010.

angel food cake Patisserie Ciel

Pâtisserie Ciel

A light and airy space featuring light and airy angel food cakes in a variety of Franco-Japanese flavors. Sweet and savory cakes are available to-go or served in the salon alongside Japanese whiskey, champagne or tea.

Practical information

Address: 3, rue Monge, 75005
Nearest transport: Maubert – Mutualité (10)
Hours: Open Tuesday-Thursday 10:30am-11pm, Friday and Saturday 10:30-2am and Sunday 10am-6pm; Closed Monday
Telephone: 01 43 29 40 78
Website Facebook

Reviews of interest

David Lebovitz (2014) The specialities here are delicately flavoured chiffon cakes with a button of thick buttercream when you reach the centre. If you choose to eat your cake in the austere café, you don’t need to be a stressed-out student to appreciate the serenity. The gentle beauty of cakes baked with everything from passion fruit to black sesame – and being Paris, chocolate – are as soothing as the neutral surroundings.”

Francois Simon (2013) ” Une pâtisserie japonaise avec sa poétique minimaliste. Des thés des meilleures provenances, des sakes de première,  et puis, des gateaux légérissimes (chiffon cake, en japonais) baptisés <angel cake>. Déroutant et délicieux.”

Paris Bouge (2013) “Plus fin qu’une génoise et presque aussi aériens qu’un nuage, les Angel Cakes de la Pâtisserie Ciel renferment un délicieux cœur fondant et crémeux.”

Le Figaro (2013) “La chef Aya Tamura (passée par le Jules Verne, le Mandarin Oriental, Saturne) les a imaginés parfumés au thé matcha, au yuzu, au sésame noir, à la framboise, au praliné rose ou au caramel (5€ le petit, 18€ le moyen, 22€ le grand). Mais aussi en version salée (parmesan-huile de noix).”

Maison Claudel Vin et Whisky

This neighborhood newcomer is both a shop and tasting space for their dual obsessions, wine and whisky. The shop sells 300 references for each, and those who want to sip on the spot can choose between 24 wines and 80 whiskeys by the glass. Leather club chairs and a selection of small bites make this a great stop before dinner nearby.

Practical information

Address: 62 rue Monge, 75005
Nearest transport: Place Monge (7) or Cardinal Lemoine (10)
Hours: Tuesday 4-9pm, Wednesday-Friday 9:30am-2:30pm and 4pm-9pm, Saturday 9:30am-9pm, Sunday 9:30am-2:30pm, closed Monday
Telephone: 01 45 87 17 95
Website

Cooperative Latte Cisternino

The source for some of the best burrata in town, and other products direct from Italy.

Practical information

Address: 46 rue du Faubourg Poissonière, 75010
Nearest transport: Poissonière (7)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 10 a.m. – 1:30 p.m. and 4:30 p.m.- 8 p.m.; closed Saturday and Sunday
Telephone: 01 47 70 30 36

Additional Locations

Address: 108 rue Saint Maur, 75011
Nearest transport: Parmentier (3)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 10 a.m. – 1:30 p.m. and 4:30 p.m.- 8 p.m.; closed Saturday and Sunday
Telephone: 01 43 38 54 54

Address: 17 rue Geoffroy Saint Hilaire, 75005
Nearest transport: Censier Daubenton (7)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 10 a.m. – 1:30 p.m. and 4:30 p.m.- 8 p.m.; closed Saturday and Sunday

Address: 37 rue Godot de Mauroy, 75009
Nearest transport: Havre-Caumartin (3, 9)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 10 a.m. – 1:30 p.m. and 4:30 p.m.- 8 p.m.; closed Saturday and Sunday
Telephone: 06 74 91 66 58

 

Photo by Gustavo Devito via Flickr

Eating & Drinking the Latin Quarter

The Latin Quarter gets a bad rap from those who only know the tourist-clogged rues de la Huchette or Pot de Fer. If you haven’t been back in a few years, you’ve missed the food and wine renaissance that’s taken place amid the Roman and Medieval monuments.

Best for Breakfast or Afternoon Coffee

Eric Kayser baguettes

Eric Kayser – his original bakery can be found at 8 rue Monge (closed Tuesday). A few doors south at #14 is another outpost with bar seating and tables outside – a better option if you’d like to stay and have coffee with your croissant. They sell sandwiches at lunchtime, too. Closed Monday.

DSC00653

Coutume Instituutti – coffee and other beverages in a bright and airy space with reliable wifi. A few Scandi-inspired nibbles (it’s inside the Finnish institute) are served for breakfast and lunch. Closed Monday.

sugarplum cake shop

Sugarplum Cake Shop – carrot cake and other American sweets, along with refillable drip coffee from Café Lomi and sometimes-working wifi. Open 12-7pm (afternoon only) Tuesday-Sunday. Closed Monday.

Best for Lunch

Café Le Papillon – this one is a dive, but has great charm. It has for years been the cheap lunch spot of choice for many of the merchants who work on the rue Mouffetard. The only change in recent times has been the addition of a framed photo of Joel Robuchon and Eric Ripert dining here during filming for an episode for Anthony Bourdain’s show No Reservations (video above).

Terroir Parisien

Terroir Parisien – dinner is also great, but you can’t beat this place for the price/quality/efficiency ratio at lunch. Get in and out with a plat du jour or haute croque monsieur without needing a reservation or  two hours to devote to lunch. Open every day.

Best for Apéro

Brewberry

Brewberry – beer fans will want to pay a visit this haven where Cécile Delorme sells hundreds of different brews, ranging from traditional Belgian to cult Norwegian. A rotating selection is stocked cold for immediate consumption, and there are a few tables outside for sipping on the sidewalk. Closed Monday.

Café de la Nouvelle Mairie – this feel-good bistro is also worth a visit for lunch or dinner (or breakfast, for that matter – they open at 8am), but it is hands down our favorite spot in the ‘hood for apéro. Owner Benjamin Forty is a great fan of natural wine, and his list will please novices and industry types alike. Plenty of options at this hour for nibbling from their long list of charcuterie, cheese and other snack options. Closed Saturday and Sunday.

Maison Claudel

Maison Claudel Vin et Whisky – this neighborhood newcomer is both a shop and tasting space for their dual obsessions, wine and whiskey. The shop sells 300 references for each, and those who want to sip on the spot can choose between 24 wines and 80 whiskeys by the glass. Leather club chairs and a selection of small bites make this a great stop before dinner. Closed Monday.

Best for Dinner

Dans les Landes

Dans les Landes – small plates from the Landes and Basque regions with well-priced wine and plenty of seating for larger groups. A few tables on the terrasse if the weather is nice. Open every day. Note: Julien Duboué sold Dans les Landes in July 2014 to open a new place near the Bourse. We haven’t yet returned to try it under the new management. 

Les Papilles

Les Papilles – over by the Luxembourg Gardens, this is a popular spot for those who want to drink great wine at caviste prices and share simple family-style cooking. Closed Sunday and Monday.

sola

Sola – a special place near Notre Dame that marries French and Japanese influences. Topped many critics’ lists when it opened in 2010, and they accept bookings online. Closed Sunday and Monday.

Best for Cocktails

curio parlour

Curio Parlour – a tiny cave filled with dead animals and intricate cocktails, from the team behind Experimental Cocktail Club.

Exceptional Shops

For Cheese

Androuet

Androuet – the rue Mouffetard location of this historic maison is by far the best of four fromageries on a small stretch of street. Managed by the bearded and knowledgable Guillaume, who speaks good English if you’re struggling with your cheese vocab. Special mention for their tunnel-aged Bethmale du chèvre and (in Spring) their selection of young, fresh goats’ cheeses, including Le Bambois. Closed Monday.

laurent dubois

Laurent Dubois – one of the most expensive and exceptional cheese shops in the city, which is what we’d expect from a Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF). Special mention for their long-aged Comté, the Camembert stuffed with Calvodos-soaked apples and marscapone, and their boundary-pushing exceptionally long aging of cheeses like Fourme d’Ambert, Charolais, and Sainte-Maure de Touraine. Closed Monday.

For Chocolate

Mococha

Mococha – chocolate fanatic Marie-Hélène Gantois is selling the creations from not one but three master chocolatiers, including Fabrice Gillot (an MOF from Dijon), Jacques Bellanger (an MOF from Le Mans) and Patrice Chapon (who twice won the prize for the best chocolate in Paris). You can fill a box with chocolates from all three if you want, or take a sachet to nibble on the go. Follow her on Facebook to keep up with her wonderful schedule of seminars, ateliers and tastings. Closed Monday.

Let me help you with that, Franck.

Franck Kestener – it doesn’t hurt that he’s young and handsome, but that’s not why we’re in love with this shop from the Lorraine-based MOF chocolatier Franck Kestener. No, the primary reason is his L’Atlantique bar with its buttery sablé base, bitter dark chocolate and salty caramel. There are plenty of other bonbons to love, but don’t leave without buying this bar. Open every day.

For Pastry

Gregory Renard

Gregory Rénard – this small shop near the Censier-Daubenton metro might not look like much from the outside, but this is my underdog favorite for macarons in Paris. His version of caramel beurre salé is extra salé and, to my taste, the best in the city. Salt lovers will also like the chocolat-fleur de sel. Be sure to also taste the punchy cassis-violette and the weirdo groseille-coquelicot (gooseberry poppy flower). Prices are so low (one euro a piece) that you don’t need to hold back. Closed Sunday.

carl marletti

Carl Marletti – if you can get past his exuberant use of decorative silver leaf, Carl Marletti makes very good pastries. Closed Monday.

For Wine

fontaine aux vin

La Fontaine aux Vins – hand-written signs, small production growers’ wines, and a wonderfully sweet staff to advise you – this is the only wine shop on the rue Mouffetard that’s worth your time. Closed Monday.

Caves du Panthéon – an impressive selection near the Panthéon and Café de la Nouvelle Mairie. Closed Sunday.

—-

Lead photo by Gustavo Devito via Flickr

 

L'Agrume by Barbra Austin

L’Agrume

This contemporary bistro was seriously hyped in its early days, thanks in part to the 37€, five-course menu and a young chef with a great resumé, and perhaps the novelty of a middle-of-nowhere location, deep in the fifth.

Practical information

Address: 15 rue des Fossés St. Marcel, 75005
Nearest transport: Les Gobelins (7) or St. Marcel (5)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 43 31 86 48
[cetsEmbedGmap src=http://maps.google.fr/maps/ms?hl=fr&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=202475318786031781734.0004a35324f0b5a1d85ee&ll=48.838952,2.356189&spn=0.006934,0.01929&z=16 width=500 height=325 marginwidth=0 marginheight=0 frameborder=0 scrolling=no]View a map of all of our restaurants here.
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, good for solo dining, open Monday
Type of crowd: foodies, neighborhood locals
Interior: bare bones & minimal
Atmosphere: casual

Reviews of interest

  • Meg Zimbeck (2011) “L’Agrume is a well-intentioned and often delicious neighborhood restaurant where you can eat five courses for €37. The service is kind, and the interior is entirely without pretension. It should not be a destination for food-minded visitors to Paris.”
  • Phyllis Flick (2010) “…but it’s already getting lots of press, and with good reason.”
  • François Simon (2010) “Vous allez adorer cette adresse toute simple, dépouillée, c’est comme un javelot savoureux.”
  • Alexander Lobrano (2010) “…the food exhibits all of the astonishing culinary discipline that makes me a doggedly perennial optimist…”
  • Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2010) “Jolie cuisine d’éclaircie et d’émotion sincèrement désarmante…”
  • John Talbott (2010) “I take the lunch formula – starting with a trio of starters –  shrimps with seaweed and ginger (delicious), sliced chicken with celery remoulade… and a veloute of leeks…with some infused olive oil it was heavenly”.
  • Caroline Mignot (2010) “Une cuisine au jour le jour que le chef veut résolument fraîche et légère, des produits extra frais, des cuissons sur la longueur et la plénitude (il s’agit de ne surtout pas bousculer les chairs), une cuisine qui a tout compris…”

About our listings
Our best efforts were made to ensure that information provided was accurate at time of publication. Have a correction or update? Send it here.

 

 

Itineraires by Barbra Austin

Itinéraires

In fall of 2011, Sarah and Sylvain Sendra (founders/sellers of Le Temps au Temps) changed the format of their popular modern bistro, reducing the number of seats by almost half, and offering dégustation menus (59€, 79€) at night.

Practical information

Address: 5 rue de Pontoise, 75005
Nearest transport: Maubert-Mutualité (10)
Hours: Closed Monday lunch and all day Saturday and Sunday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 46 33 60 11
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 50-100€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Special attributes: prix-fixe, market-based cooking, prestige ingredients

Reviews of interest

François Simon (2011) “Amuses bouches éclatés (avec un petit délice : la purée vanillée), plats chirurgicaux, saveurs à double tiroirs. Il n’y a pas à dire, la cuisine a du chien., le chef (Sylvain sendra), un talent vif. Elle virevolte, tout en gardant la main sur la rampe de textures soyeuses, crémeuses, fines, élégantes.”

Mark Bittman for The New York Times (2009) “The food is also mysterious, which is not always something I like, but here the experiments are restrained and flavor remains paramount…”

Patricia Wells “Chef Sylvain Sendra has moved into a charming, modern spot near Place Maubert, and offers a super-modern bistro menu…”

Alexander Lobrano (2008)  “Itinéraires offers a great snap shot of the best of contemporary French bistro cooking…we loved our starters of green asparagus in a foie gras vinaigrette with borage flowers and a delicate salad of finely chopped marinated salmon and baby vegetables…”

Caroline Mignot (2008) “Le menu carte est à 34 €, ce qui est raisonnable compte tenu de la prestation agréable et de la cuisine engagée de Sylvain Sendra…”

François Simon (2008) “C’est extra de naturel, de gentillesse et de gourmandise. Pourquoi ? Parce que l’on se sent attendu. Parce que l’ardoise chantonne allégrement, simplement (même l’estomac comprend) : asperges vertes vinaigrette de foie gras, rillettes de maquereau sorbet cornichon…”