Tag Archives: 75012


Practical information

Address: 4 rue Biscornet, 75012
Nearest transport: Bastille (1, 5, 8), Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Closed Wednesday & Thursday; Open Monday-Tuesday & Friday-Sunday for lunch & dinner
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone09 50 80 93 80
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 40-59€
Style of cuisine: Classic French
Website   Facebook

Reviews of interest

Les Grands Ducs (2016) “Carpaccio de langue de veau et petite salade d’Annie Bertin tout en finesse, sole délicate accompagnée de panisses (frites de farine de pois chiche, si rares à Paris), tripes aux olives judicieusement relevées, alanguies sur une des meilleures purées de la Capitale… Le tout dans un menu déjeuner tarifé avec tact à 22€!”

The Wall Street Journal (2015) “The magisterial simplicity of Mr. Philippe’s cooking gives the lie to the erroneous but oddly enduring idea that French food is often too rich and too fussy.”

Not Drinking Poison in Paris (2015) “It’s how little Philippe actually does that constitutes his appeal… it’s rare to find a classically-trained chef who works with such awesome restraint.”

John Talbott (2015) “We started off with veal brains, beautifully crisp on the outside, moist on the inside; moved on to the veal sweetbreads, beautifully crisp on the outside, moist on the inside; and terminated with a chocolate mousse made with a mousse and chocolate chips from São Tomé & Principe, just mighty fine.”

Alexander Lobrano (2015) “… delicious classic French preparations cooked according to a textbook perfection from superb produce. In fact my foie gras was the best I’ve eaten in a very long time for being so lushly barnyard ruddy but also so miraculously free of nerves, and even the accompanying toast was perfect–slightly sour country bread topped with a brown lace of crusting.”

Le Figaro (2015) “Belles appellations, bonnes intentions derrière lesquelles se révèlent des maisons où l’on déguste souvent mieux que bien… Ça y ressemble, depuis quelques jours et contre toute attente, dans cette adresse et dans cette rue, où la Bastille semble encore croire aux petits métiers.”

L’Express (2015) “Et ce bistrot se paye même le luxe d’une carte des vins toute en sentiments, piloté par Mouloud Haddaden (croisé chez Que Du Bon de Gilles Bénard), avec des vignerons-poètes aux cuvées sensibles et réconfortantes.”

L’Express (2015) “Pour assaisonner des escargots, on n’a jamais rien trouvé de mieux que le beurre d’escargot. Celui-ci, aillé, persillé, dopé par quelques herbes secrètes d’Annie Bertin et piégé de petits croûtons de campagne attrape-sauce, enrobe à merveille des gastéropodes d’élevage français, dodus et charnus.”

Boucherie Les Provinces

Practical information

Address: 20 rue d’Aligre, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Closed Monday; Open Tuesday-Sunday for lunch; Open Thursday & Friday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Reservations not accepted,  but the restaurant can be booked for private parties at night
Telephone: 01 43 43 91 64
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 20-39€
Style of cuisine: Rotisserie, Classic French
Website   Facebook

Reviews of interest

David Lebovitz (2014) “At boucherie Les Provinces, you won’t be blown away by the food, but you’ll have a good time, as we did, digging into our onglet steaks… While you likely won’t find Les Provinces listed in restaurant guides as a place to cross town for, I can’t think of a better way to spend a day in Paris than strolling around the Aligre market… before diving into a couple of steaks while knocking back a few glasses of red in the convivial atmosphere of boucherie Les Provinces.”

Le Fooding (2014) “When we’re feeling ravenous at the end of the Marché (d’Aligre), we head to the Boucherie des Provinces, choose a piece of well-matured meat and grab a table. Ten minutes later, the meat is out of the pan, in the company of sautéed new potatoes and salad, augmented by €9.80 of cooking fees. Hanger steak, veal filet, leg of lamb, pork ribs, andouillette, veal sweetbreads, or carpaccio and tartare, made using meat guaranteed to be in excellent shape by Christophe Dru, the son of the butcher and a student of the neighborhood star, Michel Brunon.”

Table à Découvert (2014) “Cette boucherie-restaurant plantée au milieu du marché d’Aligre est irrésistible… Les pommes de terre rattes confites (le seul accompagnement de la maison) sont divines. Un peu sucrées, dorées comme j’aime, un peu grasses aussi.”

Time Out (2013) “As you walk in, all the meat is displayed on the left as usual, with Aligre locals lining up to do their shopping, while the rest of the space is a jumble of tables and counters, heaving with hungry meat-eaters tucking into a giant entrecôte or côte de boeuf, sweet lamb chops or juicy pork ribs.”

L’Express (2013) “Sur place ou à emporter? On a le choix chez le boucher Christophe Dru. Ses pièces de boeuf français longuement maturées se déclinent en carpaccio, tartare, onglet, faux-filet et côte, que l’on déguste devant l’étal.”

Photo via Boucherie Les Provinces’ Facebook page


Maybe there’s a right way to do Dersou, one that involves sharing a sixty-day aged steak and a bottle of Crozes-Hermitage, as the happy couple next to us was doing at 11pm. We who had signed up from the tasting menu – offered for 90€ from 7:30-9pm, were less pleased. Chef Taku Sekine’s food – a series of five inventive, generous and mostly delicious plates, each paired by with a cocktail from barman Amaury Guyot, is not well-enough supported by an adolescent staff that seems to be more enthralled with their own vibe than with the banality of service. Continue reading Dersou


Raimo is one of the oldest ice cream shops in Paris, and one of the best. Now with locations in the 5th and 4th, along with the original shop and tea salon in the 12th.

Practical information

Address: 59-61 blvd de Reuilly, 75012
Nearest transport: Daumesnil (6, 8 )
Hours: Open every day
Telephone: 01 43 43 70 17

Additional locations

Address: 17 rue des Archives, 75004
Nearest transport: Hôtel de Ville
Hours: Every day, 11a.m.-11p.m

Address: 65 boulevard Saint Germain, 75005
Nearest transport: Cluny-La Sorbonne (10)

Reviews of interest

Time Out (2012) “As well as time-honoured varieties like vanilla, praline or blackcurrant, there are quirkier varieties like orange flower and violet; if you really can’t make up your mind, choose the ‘palette de couleurs Raimo’, which lets you try eight different flavoured scoops.”

Le Figaro (2010) “La variété des parfums (une quarantaine tournant selon les saisons), l’offre de desserts glacés (bombes, vacherins) à emporter, la grande terrasse (40 places) au calme, à l’ombre des platanes…”

David Lebovitz (2007) “…the just-churned glaces are popular here, especially the fruit-based ice creams of summer, flavored with peaches, nectarines and melon…Worth making the journey to this neighborhood a little trip from the center of Paris.”

Clasico Argentino

This Argentinian restaurant and traiteur specializes in empanadas and helado — ice cream.

Practical information

Address: 217 rue du Faubourg Saint Antoine, 75012
Nearest transport: Faidherbe-Chaligny (8)
Hours: Every day, 12-3pm and 6:30-10pm
Reservations: Reservations not necessary
Telephone: 01 56 06 95 14
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: South American

Additional Locations

Address: 56 rue de Saintonge, 75003
Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8)
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, noon-11p.m.; Closed Monday
Reservations: Reservations not necessary
Telephone: 01 44 61 00 56

Reviews of interest

Time Out (2013) “There’s something for everyone: beef, ham and cheese, tuna, humita sweetcorn with coriander and choriempa herby pork. On the side, fresh rocket and spicy chimichurri sauce. Punchy Argentinean wines go perfectly with all this, or a local Quilmes beer. For dessert, there’s a lovely list of artisanal ice cream (raspberries with malbec, zagablione, dulce de leche) or sweet empanadas with dulce de leche.”

David Lebovitz (2012) “The flavors were very good – especially the swirl of cold sabayon ice cream, rich with the flavor of egg yolks and wine, and the dulce de leche was thick and chewy…”

Puerto Cacao

This shop off the marché Aligre features fair trade chocolates, and serves breakfast and brunch, too.

Practical information

Address: 2 rue Théophile Roussel, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Monday, 11am-7pm; Tuesday-Friday, 10am-7:30pm; Saturday-Sunday, 9:30am-7pm
Telephone: 01 43 47 58 60
Website Facebook

Reviews of interest

Haven in Paris (2012) “Puerto Cacao is not the most decadent, shocking or renowned chocolate shop in Paris, but it might just be the most conscientious.”

David Lebovitz (2009) “I was a little surprised that the hot chocolate that was set in front of me, dusted with spicy-red chile powder, wasn’t all that hot… a lot of attention wasn’t being paid to the details… Still, there was something encouraging and good-natured about the place…”

Photo via Puerto Cacao’s Facebook


Located just inside the covered market at Place d’Aligre, this little shop is easy to miss, nearly hidden behind its own refrigerated snack case. But it’s a gem, with a solid assortment of Belgian, German, and French beers at very low prices.

Practical information

Address: Marché Beauvau, Place d’Aligre, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 9am-1pm and 4pm-7:30pm; Sunday 9am-1:30pm
Telephone: 01 75 77 00 57
Average price: 1.50-2.50€ for 33cl bottles, 4-7€ for 75 cl bottles
Notable Brews: Page 24 (France), Franziskaner (Germany), Maredsous (Belgium)

Troll Café

This unassuming bar, tucked on a side street near the Marché d’Aligre, boasts an impressive collection of over 100 beers. The selection is largely Belgian and mostly in bottles, though the tap choices are above average (Troll, Bavik, Petrus, and a bière du moment).  The ambiance is relaxed and familial, the prices very reasonable, and the TV more likely to be showing a cheesy movie than a sporting event.

Practical information

Address: 27, rue de Cotte, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Monday-Saturday 5pm-2am
Telephone: 01 43 42 10 75
Average price for beer: 8€ for pints, 5-7€ for 33cl bottles
Number of taps: 4
Average price for food: 3€
Food options: hot dogs

Express de Lyon

Although it appears on first glance like any other train station-adjacent café-bar, this place is a must for serious beer geeks in Paris.  Their rotating selection of taps includes craft beers from all around Europe (some favorites: Craig Allan’s hoppy French brews, BrewDog’s assertive beers from Scotland, and the kooky but delicious offerings from Denmark’s “nomad” brewery, Evil Twin).  For the less adventurous, they also pour more well-known Belgians like Chouffe, Chimay, and Leffe.  The bartenders know their stuff, and are happy to talk beer with greenhorns and aficionados alike

 An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 1 rue de Lyon, 75012
Nearest transport: Gare de Lyon (1, 14)
Hours: Every day, 8am-12:30am
Telephone: 01 43 43 21 32
Average price for beer: 7-9.50€ for pints, 4-6€ for 33cl bottles
Number of taps: 15
Average price for food: 5-12€
Food options: café standards

Additional reviews

Express de Lyon page on Beer Advocate

Bières by Elizabeth (2012) “C’est un véritable rêve éveillé : la carte de bières est époustouflante, détaillée sur ardoise, la carte brasserie sans chichis, avec de vrais bons produits. Le Croque Madame arrive épais à souhait, gratiné comme il faut, avec du bon jambon, du bon fromage, du moelleux en veux –tu en- voilà, le service est de qualité, le serveur sympa, attentionné, sans prétention…”


This fromagerie is in the covered Marché Beauvau, adjacent to the Marché Aligre, and has an incredible selection of chèvre among hundreds of other cheeses.

Practical information

Address: in the Marché Beauvau, on place d’Aligre, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: closed Monday
Telephone: 01 43 45 35 09

Reviews of interest

Le Figaro (2013) “Monsieur Langlet, toujours tiré à quatre épingles avec sa cravate et sa blouse, a fait les beaux jours du marché couvert d’Aligre pendant plusieurs décennies. Son successeur depuis 2009 n’a rien changé au stand: plus de 350 références et des coquetteries comme le comté 36 mois ou les formidables rocamadours crémeux, des petits chèvres fermiers du Lot, qu’on goberait tout rond tellement ils sont bons. Pour les indécis, les meilleurs fromages du moment sont à l’ardoise et les conseils au rendez-vous.”

Boulangerie Bazin

Bazin is known for his breads, as well as his classic Paris-Brest.

Practical information

Address: 85 bis rue de Charenton, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Closed Wednesday, Closed Thursday
Telephone: 01 43 07 29 01
Website Facebook

Reviews of interest

Painrisien (2012) “Jacques Bazin a développé son propre diagramme de fabrication, et il en résulte une baguette assez originale. Sa force, c’est incontestablement sa croûte, puissante et croustillante. Elle s’exprime tout particulièrement lors de la dégustation, ce qui satisfera les amateurs de mâche ! (moi le premier) – en plus d’assurer une bonne conservation. La mie est légèrement sèche, un peu « briochée », surprenant pour ce type de pain. Seule légère réserve, je trouve qu’elle manque tout de même de parfum et d’arômes, même si l’on retrouve d’intéressantes notes de noisette.”

Le Figaro (2010) ” C’est chez un artisan de quartier, la boulangerie Bazin (déjà plébiscitée pour sa baguette), que nous avons trouvé notre dauphin….”

David Lebovitz (2009) Recommended in The Sweet Life in Paris.

David Lebovitz (2006) “…a favorite baguette of mine is available with a hearty mixture of grains; flax, sesame, and poppy seeds…one of the prettiest bakeries in Paris too.”

Fromagerie Lefèbvre

Fromager Eric Lefèbvre is a M.O.F. — Meilleur Ouvrier de France.

Practical information

Address: 229 rue de Charenton, 75012
Nearest transport: Dugommier (6)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 8am-1pm and 4pm-8pm; Sunday, 8am-1pm; closed Monday
Telephone: 01 46 28 62 07

Reviews of interest

Gilles Pudlowski (2010) “Eric Lefebvre, MOF fromager 2004 est président du syndicat des crémiers/fromagers d’île de France. Cet artisan fervent, compagnon plein de gaité, anime avec cœur une boutique de qualité.”

Boulangerie d’Isa

Baker Michel Chorin was a top ten finisher in the 2010 Grand Prix de la Baguette.

Practical information

Address: 127 rue de Charenton, 75012
Nearest transport: Reuilly-Diderot 8,1)
Hours: Closed Sunday
Telephone: 01 43 44 57 56

Reviews of interest 

Best Baguette (Grand Prix de la Baguette de Tradition Française de la Ville de Paris) 8th place in 2010

Painrisien (2011) “Les cuissons sont particulièrement bien réalisées, la croûte est fine et craquante, la conservation est de très bon niveau, et les arômes sont bien présents (notes de céréales torréfiées persistantes, de noisette et mie au goût légèrement « beurré »)… En dehors de la tradition, le reste est très classique, on retrouve les habituels pains aux céréales et divers fruits secs ainsi que le pain Bucheron. On notera toutefois l’existence du pain « Torgniole », riche en fruits, ou encore d’un pain à la mie serrée et au goût marqué, réalisé à partir de farine d’épeautre complète. La réalisation des pains spéciaux est très honnête, tout comme les tarifs, qui permettent à cette boulangerie d’offrir un bon rapport qualité/prix.”

Blé Sucré

Fabrice Le Bourdat makes some of the most beautiful — and acclaimed — desserts, viennoiserie, and breads in Paris.

 An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 7 rue Antoine Vollon, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Closed Monday
Telephone: 01 43 40 77 73

Reviews of Interest

The New York Times (2015) “… a patisserie with a deceptively everyday look; it is run by Fabrice Le Bourdat, the former pastry chef at Le Bristol, the three-star Michelin restaurant that is now called Epicure. Along with my espresso, I had a kouign-amann, a caramelized cross between a palmier and a croissant that comes from Bretagne and has been positively compared with the Cronut. Blé Sucré’s decadent version costs just 1.76 euros.”

Le Figaro (2014)  #1 madeleine in Paris

Bon Appetit (2012) “Fabrice Le Bourdat’s madeleines are the best in town, and I love that they’re glazed… Give his butter-and-caramel kouign-amann a try, too.”

Meg Zimbeck (2009) “Fabrice Le Bourdat, in his former life, was pastry chef at the three-Michelin-starred restaurant Le Bristol. He gave that up to open his own shop, and now rises every morning at 2 to make his famous millefeuille and iced madeleines for late morning customers… A cone of homemade salted butter caramel ice cream is a heavenly treat, particularly if it’s eaten in the tree-filled Square Trousseau across the street.”

Dorie Greenspan (2007) “About Blé Sucré and those madeleines: The patisserie…is worth a trip on its own.”

David Lebovitz (2007) “…prices at Blé Sucré are very reasonable but the quality is unquestionably high.”

Chocolate & Zucchini (2006) “Of particular note was the tablet of dark chocolate studded with crunchy flecks of salted caramel… and a set of four marvelously fresh madeleines.”

Première Pression Provence

A user-friendly (and increasingly omnipresent) olive oil shop featuring a range of oils from small producers. Grab a plastic spoon because you can taste just about everything in the shop.

Practical information

Address: 3 rue Antoine Vollon, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Tuesday-Friday, noon-2:30pm and 3:30-7:30pm; Saturday, 10:30am-2:30pm and 3:30pm-7:30pm; closed Sunday and Monday
Telephone: 01 53 33 03 59

Additional locations

Address: 7 Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 75003
Nearest transport: Hôtel de Ville (1,11)
Hours: Closed Monday
Telephone: 01 44 54 93 71

Address: 9 rue des Martyrs, 75009
Nearest transport: Notre Dame de Lorette (12)
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 10:30am-2:30pm and 3:30pm-7:30pm; closed Monday
Telephone: 01 48 78 86 51

Address: 15 rue Daguerre, 75014
Nearest transport: Denfert-Rochereau (4, 6, RER B)
Hours: Monday, 2pm-8pm; Tuesday-Saturday, 10:30am-2:30pm and 3:30pm-8pm; Sunday, 10am-2pm
Telephone: 01 43 22 66 29

Address: 37 rue de Lévis, 75017
Nearest transport: Villiers (2, 3)
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 10:30am-2:30pm and 3:30-8pm; Sunday, 10am-2pm
Telephone: 01 40 54 81 63

Address: 8 cours du Commerce Saint André, 75006
Nearest transport: Odéon (4, 10)
Hours: Monday-Friday, noon-3pm and 3:30pm-8pm; Saturday, noon-10pm; Sunday, noon-8pm
Telephone: 01 43 26 79 72

Japanese Knife Company

After 16 years in London, where it was hailed as a “shrine to the knife” (The Guardian) offering “the finest selection of culinary blades we have ever come across” (Financial Times) that is “awesome, amazing and the very best available” (The Wall Street Journal), the Japanese Knife Company established its first Paris shop in May 2014. With backing from a team that includes the owners of Au Passage and Bones, its already become a magnet for chefs to browse and buy knives (so far, we’ve spotted chefs from Verjus, Roseval, CheZaline) and for restaurants to get their kitchen and table knives sharpened (Le Servan and Septime, among others). Soon to come: sushi and butchery workshops, chef demonstrations, and other cutting edge (sorry) events.

Practical information

Address: 13 rue de Cotte, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Monday-Friday 12:30-8pm, Saturday 10:30am-8pm, Sunday 10am-2pm
Telephone: 09 84 44 89 31
Website   Facebook

Au Coeur du Marché

This small fromager and affineur can sometimes get hidden by the all the hustle and bustle of market life just outside, but duck in. The quality is high, the service is friendly (and bilingual), and they will happily sous-vide (vacuum seal) your cheese for travel. Notable offerings include a wide selection of foreign cheeses (quite rare in Paris), goat’s milk yogurts, and a good variety of butters.

Practical information

Address: 28 rue d’Aligre, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Closed Monday
Telephone: 01 43 41 50 64

Additional Locations

Address: 85 bis boulevard Magenta, 75010 (inside the Marché Saint Quentin)
Nearest transport: Gare de l’Est (4,5,7)
Telephone: 01 44 83 07 93

Café Cartouche

Practical information

Address: 4 rue de Bercy, 75012
Nearest transport: Dugommier (6), Cour Saint-Émilion (14)
Hours: Closed Sunday; Open Monday-Friday for lunch & dinner and Saturday for dinner
Reservations: Walk-ins Welcome
Telephone: 01 40 19 09 95
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 20-39€
Style of cuisine: Classic French

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2009) “Terrines, gizzard salad, sausage, ris d’agneau, bavette/frites, pintade, prunes, figs and an apple gratin. And good affordable wine.”

Alexander Lobrano (2009) “We ordered à la carte from the chalkboard menu and ate a very good, simple French meal… I loved my faux-filet with an avalanche of freshly made frites…”

Table à Découvert (2009) “… un patron heureux de vous accueillir, de vous installer et de vous chambrer un peu en passant…”

Photo courtesy of John Talbott

A la Biche au Bois

Practical information

Address: 45 avenue Ledru-Rollin, 75012
Nearest transport:  Gare de Lyon (1, 14, RER A), Quai de la Rapée (5)
Hours: Closed Sunday; Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch & dinner and Monday & Saturday for dinner
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 43 43 34 38
Average price for lunch: 20-39€
Average price for dinner: 20-39€
Style of cuisine: Classic French

Reviews of interest

Atabula (2014) “Au programme: nappes épaisses, lourds couverts dans une ambiance mi populaire-mi bourgeoise. Comptez une vingtaine d’euros pour un menu qui fait la part belle aux terrines, rilettes, gibiers en saison, coq au vin, andouillette… Une jolie adresse dont on ferait volontiers sa cantine.”

David Lebovitz (2010) “… hearty and honest French fare… a very respectable Coq au vin. In the dinged-up casserole, you’ll need to drag the spoon through the thick, dark sauce to pluck out a piece of chicken…The fries are some of the best in Paris.”

John Talbott (2009) “… our friend had coq au vin that was about as good as I’ve had since Chez Rene’s went south, and I reveled in the thickly sliced almost raw biche (cooked to my liking despite no instructions) with a rich sauce and a chestnut puree and a ton of (so so) frites…”

Photo courtesy of A La Biche Au Bois’ Facebook page


We stayed away from Table for quite some time, fearing that it would be terrible. With a food writer (Bruno Verjus) in the kitchen and seemingly unlimited funds for decor and product sourcing from the guy that founded L’Occitane, it seemed like the sort of place that would be long on concept, high on prices, and short on soul. In recent months, however, we’ve become devoted fans of the 3-course lunch for 25€. Prices are much higher at dinner, but the lunch is one of the best deals in town.

Meg Zimbeck, 2014

Continue reading Table

Pink Flamingo

Practical information

Address: 67 rue Bichat, 75010
Nearest transport: Jacques Bonsergent (5)
Hours: Open Monday-Thursday for dinner only; Open Friday-Sunday for lunch and dinner
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 42 02 31 70
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: Pizza
Website   Facebook

Additional locations

Address: 105 rue Vieille du Temple, 75003
Nearest transport: Saint-Sébastien-Froissart (8)
Hours: Open every day
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 42 71 28 20

Address: 23 rue d’Aligre, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Closed Monday
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 43 43 47 07

Address: 30 rue Muller, 75018
Nearest transport: Chateau Rouge (4)
Hours: Closed Monday; Open Tuesday & Wednesday for dinner only; Open Thursday-Sunday for lunch & dinner
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 42 23 14 07

Reviews of interest

Le Figaro (2010) “Des spécimens de galette décalés, potaches et, une fois sur deux, plutôt convaincants.”