Tag Archives: 75012

Raimo Ice Cream Paris Photo Barbra Austin

Raimo

Raimo is one of the oldest ice cream shops in Paris, and one of the best. Now with locations in the 5th and 4th, along with the original shop and tea salon in the 12th.

Practical information

Address: 59-61 blvd de Reuilly, 75012
Nearest transport: Daumesnil (6, 8 )
Hours: Open every day
Telephone: 01 43 43 70 17
Website

Additional locations

Address: 17 rue des Archives, 75004
Nearest transport: Hôtel de Ville
Hours: Every day, 11a.m.-11p.m

Address: 65 boulevard Saint Germain, 75005
Nearest transport: Cluny-La Sorbonne (10)

Reviews of interest

Time Out (2012) “As well as time-honoured varieties like vanilla, praline or blackcurrant, there are quirkier varieties like orange flower and violet; if you really can’t make up your mind, choose the ‘palette de couleurs Raimo’, which lets you try eight different flavoured scoops.”

Le Figaro (2010) “La variété des parfums (une quarantaine tournant selon les saisons), l’offre de desserts glacés (bombes, vacherins) à emporter, la grande terrasse (40 places) au calme, à l’ombre des platanes…”

David Lebovitz (2007) “…the just-churned glaces are popular here, especially the fruit-based ice creams of summer, flavored with peaches, nectarines and melon…Worth making the journey to this neighborhood a little trip from the center of Paris.”

Clasico Argentino Paris photo Clasico Argentino website

Clasico Argentino

This Argentinian restaurant and traiteur specializes in empanadas and helado — ice cream.

Practical information

Address: 217 rue du Faubourg Saint Antoine, 75012
Nearest transport: Faidherbe-Chaligny (8)
Hours: Every day, 12-3pm and 6:30-10pm
Reservations: Reservations not necessary
Telephone: 01 56 06 95 14
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 10-19€
Style of cuisine: South American
Website

Additional Locations

Address: 56 rue de Saintonge, 75003
Nearest transport: Filles du Calvaire (8)
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, noon-11p.m.; Closed Monday
Reservations: Reservations not necessary
Telephone: 01 44 61 00 56

Reviews of interest

Time Out (2013) “There’s something for everyone: beef, ham and cheese, tuna, humita sweetcorn with coriander and choriempa herby pork. On the side, fresh rocket and spicy chimichurri sauce. Punchy Argentinean wines go perfectly with all this, or a local Quilmes beer. For dessert, there’s a lovely list of artisanal ice cream (raspberries with malbec, zagablione, dulce de leche) or sweet empanadas with dulce de leche.”

David Lebovitz (2012) “The flavors were very good – especially the swirl of cold sabayon ice cream, rich with the flavor of egg yolks and wine, and the dulce de leche was thick and chewy…”

puerto cacao source facebook

Puerto Cacao

This shop off the marché Aligre features fair trade chocolates, and serves breakfast and brunch, too.

Practical information

Address: 2 rue Théophile Roussel, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Monday, 11am-7pm; Tuesday-Friday, 10am-7:30pm; Saturday-Sunday, 9:30am-7pm
Telephone: 01 43 47 58 60
Website Facebook

Reviews of interest

Haven in Paris (2012) “Puerto Cacao is not the most decadent, shocking or renowned chocolate shop in Paris, but it might just be the most conscientious.”

David Lebovitz (2009) “I was a little surprised that the hot chocolate that was set in front of me, dusted with spicy-red chile powder, wasn’t all that hot… a lot of attention wasn’t being paid to the details… Still, there was something encouraging and good-natured about the place…”

Photo via Puerto Cacao’s Facebook

Pommier beer shop Paris at Aligre

Pommier

Located just inside the covered market at Place d’Aligre, this little shop is easy to miss, nearly hidden behind its own refrigerated snack case. But it’s a gem, with a solid assortment of Belgian, German, and French beers at very low prices.

Practical information

Address: Marché Beauvau, Place d’Aligre, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 9am-1pm and 4pm-7:30pm; Sunday 9am-1:30pm
Telephone: 01 75 77 00 57
Average price: 1.50-2.50€ for 33cl bottles, 4-7€ for 75 cl bottles
Notable Brews: Page 24 (France), Franziskaner (Germany), Maredsous (Belgium)

Troll Cafe

Troll Café

This unassuming bar, tucked on a side street near the Marché d’Aligre, boasts an impressive collection of over 100 beers. The selection is largely Belgian and mostly in bottles, though the tap choices are above average (Troll, Bavik, Petrus, and a bière du moment).  The ambiance is relaxed and familial, the prices very reasonable, and the TV more likely to be showing a cheesy movie than a sporting event.

Practical information

Address: 27, rue de Cotte, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Monday-Saturday 5pm-2am
Telephone: 01 43 42 10 75
Average price for beer: 8€ for pints, 5-7€ for 33cl bottles
Number of taps: 4
Average price for food: 3€
Food options: hot dogs
Website

Express de Lyon

Express de Lyon

Although it appears on first glance like any other train station-adjacent café-bar, this place is a must for serious beer geeks in Paris.  Their rotating selection of taps includes craft beers from all around Europe (some favorites: Craig Allan’s hoppy French brews, BrewDog’s assertive beers from Scotland, and the kooky but delicious offerings from Denmark’s “nomad” brewery, Evil Twin).  For the less adventurous, they also pour more well-known Belgians like Chouffe, Chimay, and Leffe.  The bartenders know their stuff, and are happy to talk beer with greenhorns and aficionados alike

 An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 1 rue de Lyon, 75012
Nearest transport: Gare de Lyon (1, 14)
Hours: Every day, 8am-12:30am
Telephone: 01 43 43 21 32
Average price for beer: 7-9.50€ for pints, 4-6€ for 33cl bottles
Number of taps: 15
Average price for food: 5-12€
Food options: café standards
Website

Additional reviews

Express de Lyon page on Beer Advocate

Bières by Elizabeth (2012) “C’est un véritable rêve éveillé : la carte de bières est époustouflante, détaillée sur ardoise, la carte brasserie sans chichis, avec de vrais bons produits. Le Croque Madame arrive épais à souhait, gratiné comme il faut, avec du bon jambon, du bon fromage, du moelleux en veux –tu en- voilà, le service est de qualité, le serveur sympa, attentionné, sans prétention…”

Fromagerie Hardouin Paris Photo Hardouin Facebook

Hardouin-Langlet

This fromagerie is in the covered Marché Beauvau, adjacent to the Marché Aligre, and has an incredible selection of chèvre among hundreds of other cheeses.

Practical information

Address: in the Marché Beauvau, on place d’Aligre, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: closed Monday
Telephone: 01 43 45 35 09
Website

Reviews of interest

Le Figaro (2013) “Monsieur Langlet, toujours tiré à quatre épingles avec sa cravate et sa blouse, a fait les beaux jours du marché couvert d’Aligre pendant plusieurs décennies. Son successeur depuis 2009 n’a rien changé au stand: plus de 350 références et des coquetteries comme le comté 36 mois ou les formidables rocamadours crémeux, des petits chèvres fermiers du Lot, qu’on goberait tout rond tellement ils sont bons. Pour les indécis, les meilleurs fromages du moment sont à l’ardoise et les conseils au rendez-vous.”

Boulangerie Bazin

Bazin is known for his breads, as well as his classic Paris-Brest.

Practical information

Address: 85 bis rue de Charenton, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Closed Wednesday, Closed Thursday
Telephone: 01 43 07 29 01
Website Facebook

Reviews of interest

Painrisien (2012) “Jacques Bazin a développé son propre diagramme de fabrication, et il en résulte une baguette assez originale. Sa force, c’est incontestablement sa croûte, puissante et croustillante. Elle s’exprime tout particulièrement lors de la dégustation, ce qui satisfera les amateurs de mâche ! (moi le premier) – en plus d’assurer une bonne conservation. La mie est légèrement sèche, un peu « briochée », surprenant pour ce type de pain. Seule légère réserve, je trouve qu’elle manque tout de même de parfum et d’arômes, même si l’on retrouve d’intéressantes notes de noisette.”

Le Figaro (2010) ” C’est chez un artisan de quartier, la boulangerie Bazin (déjà plébiscitée pour sa baguette), que nous avons trouvé notre dauphin….”

David Lebovitz (2009) Recommended in The Sweet Life in Paris.

David Lebovitz (2006) “…a favorite baguette of mine is available with a hearty mixture of grains; flax, sesame, and poppy seeds…one of the prettiest bakeries in Paris too.”

Fromagerie Lefèbvre

Fromager Eric Lefèbvre is a M.O.F. — Meilleur Ouvrier de France.

Practical information

Address: 229 rue de Charenton, 75012
Nearest transport: Dugommier (6)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 8am-1pm and 4pm-8pm; Sunday, 8am-1pm; closed Monday
Telephone: 01 46 28 62 07

Reviews of interest

Gilles Pudlowski (2010) “Eric Lefebvre, MOF fromager 2004 est président du syndicat des crémiers/fromagers d’île de France. Cet artisan fervent, compagnon plein de gaité, anime avec cœur une boutique de qualité.”

Boulangerie d’Isa

Baker Michel Chorin was a top ten finisher in the 2010 Grand Prix de la Baguette.

Practical information

Address: 127 rue de Charenton, 75012
Nearest transport: Reuilly-Diderot 8,1)
Hours: Closed Sunday
Telephone: 01 43 44 57 56

Reviews of interest 

Best Baguette (Grand Prix de la Baguette de Tradition Française de la Ville de Paris) 8th place in 2010

Painrisien (2011) “Les cuissons sont particulièrement bien réalisées, la croûte est fine et craquante, la conservation est de très bon niveau, et les arômes sont bien présents (notes de céréales torréfiées persistantes, de noisette et mie au goût légèrement « beurré »)… En dehors de la tradition, le reste est très classique, on retrouve les habituels pains aux céréales et divers fruits secs ainsi que le pain Bucheron. On notera toutefois l’existence du pain « Torgniole », riche en fruits, ou encore d’un pain à la mie serrée et au goût marqué, réalisé à partir de farine d’épeautre complète. La réalisation des pains spéciaux est très honnête, tout comme les tarifs, qui permettent à cette boulangerie d’offrir un bon rapport qualité/prix.”

Eric Kayser by Meg Zimbeck

Eric Kayser

Don’t let the multiple locations fool you into thinking that this is some kind of mediocre chain bakery: The breads at Kayser are excellent (ranked #1 on our list of Five Great Baguettes in Paris).

An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 8 rue Monge, 75005
Nearest transport: Maubert-Mutualité (10)
Hours: Closed Tuesday
Telephone: 01 44 07 01 42
Website Facebook

Additional Locations

Address: 33 rue Danielle Casanova, 75001
Nearest transport: Pyramides (7, 14)
Hours: Closed Sunday
Telephone: 01 42 97 59 29

Address: 16 rue des Petits-Carreaux, 75002
Nearest transport: Sentier (3)
Hours: Closed Sunday
Telephone: 01 42 33 76 48

Address: 14 rue Monge, 75005
Nearest transport: Maubert-Mutualité (10)
Hours: Closed Monday
Telephone: 01 44 07 17 81

Address: 10 rue de l’Ancienne Comedie, 75006
Nearest transport: Odéon (4, 10)
Hours: Closed Sunday
Telephone: 01 43 25 71 60

Address: 87 rue d’Assas, 75006
Nearest transport: Port-Royal (RER B)
Hours: Closed Sunday
Telephone: 01 43 54 92 31

Address: 18 rue du Bac, 75007
Nearest transport: Solferino (12)
Hours: Closed Monday
Telephone: 01 42 61 27 63

Address: 85 blvd Malesherbes, 75008
Nearest transport: Villiers (2, 3)
Hours: Closed Sunday
Telephone: 01 45 22 70 30

Address: 309 rue du Faubourg St. Antoine, 75011
Nearest transport: Nation (1, 2, 6, 9)
Hours: Closed Sunday
Telephone: 01 43 79 01 76

Address: 77 quai Panhard et Levassor, 75013
Nearest transport: Bibliothèque François Mitterand (14, RER C)
Hours: Closed Sunday
Telephone: 01 56 61 11 06

Address: 87 rue Didot, 75014
Nearest transport: Plaisance (13)
Hours: Closed Wednesday
Telephone: 01 45 42 59 19

Address: 79 rue du Commerce, 75015
Nearest transport: Commerce (8)
Hours: Closed Sunday
Telephone: 01 44 19 88 54

Address: 79 ave Mozart, 75016
Nearest transport: Jasmin (9)
Hours: Closed Sunday
Telephone: 01 42 88 03 29

Address: 19 ave des Ternes, 75017
Nearest transport: Ternes (2)
Hours: Closed Sunday
Telephone: 01 43 80 23 28

Reviews of interest

David Lebovitz (2009) Recommended in The Sweet Life in Paris.

Stephen L. Kaplan (2006) Recommended in Good Bread Is Back.

Ble Sucre by Meg Zimbeck

Blé Sucré

Fabrice Le Bourdat makes some of the most beautiful — and acclaimed — desserts, viennoisserie, and breads in Paris.

An absolute favorite

Practical information

Address: 7 rue Antoine Vollon, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Closed Monday
Telephone: 01 43 40 77 73

Reviews of Interest

Bon Appetit (2012) “Fabrice Le Bourdat’s madeleines are the best in town, and I love that they’re glazed… Give his butter-and-caramel kouign-amann a try, too.”

Meg Zimbeck (2009) “Fabrice Le Bourdat, in his former life, was pastry chef at the three-Michelin-starred restaurant Le Bristol. He gave that up to open his own shop, and now rises every morning at 2 to make his famous millefeuille and iced madeleines for late morning customers… A cone of homemade salted butter caramel ice cream is a heavenly treat, particularly if it’s eaten in the tree-filled Square Trousseau across the street.”

Dorie Greenspan (2007) “About Blé Sucré and those madeleines: The patisserie…is worth a trip on its own.”

David Lebovitz (2007) “…prices at Blé Sucré are very reasonable but the quality is unquestionably high.”

Chocolate & Zucchini (2006) “Of particular note was the tablet of dark chocolate studded with crunchy flecks of salted caramel… and a set of four marvelously fresh madeleines.”

Premiere Pression Provence via PPP's Facebook page

Première Pression Provence

A user-friendly (and increasingly omnipresent) olive oil shop featuring a range of oils from small producers. Grab a plastic spoon because you can taste just about everything in the shop.

Practical information

Address: 3 rue Antoine Vollon, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Tuesday-Friday, noon-2:30pm and 3:30-7:30pm; Saturday, 10:30am-2:30pm and 3:30pm-7:30pm; closed Sunday and Monday
Telephone: 01 53 33 03 59
Website

Additional locations

Address: 7 Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 75003
Nearest transport: Hôtel de Ville (1,11)
Hours: Closed Monday
Telephone: 01 44 54 93 71

Address: 9 rue des Martyrs, 75009
Nearest transport: Notre Dame de Lorette (12)
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 10:30am-2:30pm and 3:30pm-7:30pm; closed Monday
Telephone: 01 48 78 86 51

Address: 15 rue Daguerre, 75014
Nearest transport: Denfert-Rochereau (4, 6, RER B)
Hours: Monday, 2pm-8pm; Tuesday-Saturday, 10:30am-2:30pm and 3:30pm-8pm; Sunday, 10am-2pm
Telephone: 01 43 22 66 29

Address: 37 rue de Lévis, 75017
Nearest transport: Villiers (2, 3)
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 10:30am-2:30pm and 3:30-8pm; Sunday, 10am-2pm
Telephone: 01 40 54 81 63

Address: 8 cours du Commerce Saint André, 75006
Nearest transport: Odéon (4, 10)
Hours: Monday-Friday, noon-3pm and 3:30pm-8pm; Saturday, noon-10pm; Sunday, noon-8pm
Telephone: 01 43 26 79 72

DSC03970

Japanese Knife Company

After 16 years in London, where it was hailed as a “shrine to the knife” (The Guardian) offering “the finest selection of culinary blades we have ever come across” (Financial Times) that is “awesome, amazing and the very best available” (The Wall Street Journal), the Japanese Knife Company established its first Paris shop in May 2014. With backing from a team that includes the owners of Au Passage and Bones, its already become a magnet for chefs to browse and buy knives (so far, we’ve spotted chefs from Verjus, Roseval, CheZaline) and for restaurants to get their kitchen and table knives sharpened (Le Servan and Septime, among others). Soon to come: sushi and butchery workshops, chef demonstrations, and other cutting edge (sorry) events.

Practical information

Address: 13 rue de Cotte, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday 12:30-8pm and Mondays by appointment
Telephone: 09 84 44 89 31
Website Facebook

coeur du marche

Au Coeur du Marché

This small fromager and affineur can sometimes get hidden by the all the hustle and bustle of market life just outside, but duck in. The quality is high, the service is friendly (and bilingual), and they will happily sous-vide (vacuum seal) your cheese for travel. Notable offerings include a wide selection of foreign cheeses (quite rare in Paris), goat’s milk yogurts, and a good variety of butters.

Practical information

Address: 28 rue d’Aligre, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Closed Monday
Telephone: 01 43 41 50 64
Facebook

Additional Locations

Address: 85 bis boulevard Magenta, 75010 (inside the Marché Saint Quentin)
Nearest transport: Gare de l’Est (4,5,7)
Telephone: 01 44 83 07 93

Café Cartouche by John Talbott

Café Cartouche

This is the second address from Rodolphe Paquin of Le Repaire de Cartouche.

Practical information

Address: 4 rue de Bercy, 75012
Nearest transport: Dugommier (6)
Hours: Closed Sunday, Closed Saturday lunch
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 40 19 09 95
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Classic French

Reviews of interest

John Talbott (2009) “Terrines, gizzard salad, sausage, ris d’agneau, bavette/frites, pintade, prunes, figs and an apple gratin. And good affordable wine.”

Alexander Lobrano (2009) “We ordered à la carte from the chalkboard menu and ate a very good, simple French meal… I loved my faux-filet with an avalanche of freshly made frites…”

Caroline Mignot (2009) “…un patron heureux de vous accueillir, de vous installer et de vous chambrer un peu en passant…”

A la Biche au Bois by Barbra Austin

A la Biche au Bois

You’ll find hearty cocottes at this neighborhood favorite, accompanied by piles of purée or frites. Finish with ripe cheese and a gigantic ile flottante, and then roll home.

Practical information

Address: 45 avenue Ledru-Rollin, 75012
Nearest transport: Gare de Lyon (1, 14, RER A)
Hours: Closed Saturday and Sunday; closed Monday lunch.
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 43 43 34 38
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: Classic French

Reviews of interest

A Tabula (2014) “Au programme : nappes épaisses, lourds couverts dans une ambiance mi populaire-mi bourgeoise. Comptez une vingtaine d’euros pour un menu qui fait la part belle aux terrines, rilettes, gibiers en saison, coq au vin, andouillette… Une jolie adresse dont on ferait volontiers sa cantine.”

David Lebovitz (2010) “…hearty and honest French fare….a very respectable Coq au vin. In the dinged-up casserole, you’ll need to drag the spoon through the thick, dark sauce to pluck out a piece of chicken…The fries are some of the best in Paris.”

John Talbott (2009) “…our friend had coq au vin that was about as good as I’ve had since Chez Rene’s went south, and I reveled in the thickly sliced almost raw biche (cooked to my liking despite no instructions) with a rich sauce and a chestnut puree and a ton of (so so) frites…”

Barbra Austin (2009) “What it is:  A neighborhood restaurant between the Gare de Lyon and Bastille serving generous portions of hearty, traditional dishes, heavy on the game, with deep bowls of potato purée and piles of frites. What it’s not: expensive…”

La Gazzetta by Meg Zimbeck

La Gazzetta

Petter Nilsson’s inspired, eclectic cooking drew rave reviews. Then he left, came back, and now he’s flown the coop again for Sweden. We’ll see?

Practical information

Address: 29 rue de Cotte, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 43 47 47 05
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: Modern French
Website

Reviews of interest

Jerôme Berger for A Nous Paris (2014) “Un joli coup de Botte! Attention, pas le sempiternel trio mozza-pizza-tira’, non! Mais une façon de cuisine ritale : inspirée par la mamma, dressée pour la fashionista.”

François-Régis Gaudry (2014) “Même sans Petter Nilsson, la Gazzetta, ça gaze…L’autre jour, au déjeuner, dans une stupéfiante formule entrées et plat à 19 €, le garçon a montré qu’il avait plus d’un tour dans sa botte.”

Meg Zimbeck (2010) “Petter Nilsson’s cooking—often inspired and always eclectic—has helped establish La Gazzetta as a destination for food adventure…”

John Talbott (2010) “…free-range chicken with a sour orange and rosemary sauce…black cod with razor clams, quite nice and healthy.  Both were on the same bed of cabbage and parmesan, parsley and nuts – lazy, is Petter getting – or for 16 E are the first 4 a bargain? Yes!”

will restaurant photo will facebook

Will

This is the first restaurant for globe trotting chef William Pradeleix who has worked in London under Hélène Darroze, in Bora Bora with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and most recently, headed up the kitchen at Manger. His precise, Asian-inflected cuisine is drawing diners to the Aligre market area.

Practical information

Address: 75 rue Crozatier, 75012
Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday dinner
Reservations: Last minute bookings usually okay
Telephone: 01 53 17 02 44
Average price for lunch: 10-19€
Average price for dinner: 40-59€
Style of cuisine: modern French
Facebook

Reviews of Interest

A Tabula (2014) ” Un néobistrot de taille modeste et des assiettes légères (les gros mangeurs fonceront s’acheter un kebab dans la foulée) joliment réalisées. On y a goûté un excellent pavé de saumon-purée de carottes et un croustillant chocolat sans fausse note. 19 € la formule plat + dessert. Seul bémol : le temps d’attente entre deux séquence.”

John Talbott (2014) “Every bit as refreshing as before.” A trio of flavorful carpaccios “each had a burst of flavor from lemongrass, cilantro or Thai spices… All were so refreshing and perfect for summer.”

François Simon (2014) “Tout y est: l’accueil plaisant, l’ambiance à la gourmandise studieuse et surtout les assiettes balançant entre carpaccio de maigre à la citronnelle, vinaigrette gingembre; asperges blanches mousse dashi, tataki de veau. C’est bien simple, guère de réserves, on en ressort charmé, ligoté. Bien!”

Jerome Berger (2014) “Bistrotières asiatico-esthétisantes… séduit les arty et oisifs du quartier; joliesse, technicité et vins nature obligent.”

John Talbott (2014) “Sure hit the sweet spot.”

Emmanuel Rubin (2014) “Une table comme une fenêtre ouverte sur le printemps… Il était enfin une cuisine dans l’élan, manière et matière d’ici et d’Asie, légère, fauviste, désaltérante.”

Alexander Lobrano (2014) “With friendly and alert service, this was a very good meal, and my only reservations about this place are the short wine list, which will hopefully grow longer and more interesting, and a wish for a more extensive selection of cheeses…”