Practical information Address: 4 rue Biscornet, 75012 Nearest transport: Bastille (1, 5, 8), Ledru-Rollin (8) Hours: Closed Wednesday & Thursday; Open Monday-Tuesday & Friday-Sunday for lunch & dinner Reservations: Book a few days in advance Telephone: 09 50 […]

Boucherie Les Provinces

Practical information Address: 20 rue d’Aligre, 75012 Nearest transport: Ledru-Rollin (8) Hours: Closed Monday; Open Tuesday-Sunday for lunch; Open Thursday & Friday for lunch and dinner Reservations: Reservations not accepted,  but the restaurant can be booked for private […]


Maybe there’s a right way to do Dersou, one that involves sharing a sixty-day aged steak and a bottle of Crozes-Hermitage, as the happy couple next to us was doing at 11pm. We who had signed […]


Raimo is one of the oldest ice cream shops in Paris, and one of the best. Now with locations in the 5th and 4th, along with the original shop and tea salon in the 12th. […]


Located just inside the covered market at Place d’Aligre, this little shop is easy to miss, nearly hidden behind its own refrigerated snack case. But it’s a gem, with a solid assortment of Belgian, German, and French beers at very low prices. […]

Troll Café

This unassuming bar, tucked on a side street near the Marché d’Aligre, boasts an impressive collection of over 100 beers. The selection is largely Belgian and mostly in bottles, though the tap choices are above average. […]

Express de Lyon

Although it appears on first glance like any other train station-adjacent café-bar, this place is a must for serious beer geeks in Paris. Their rotating selection of taps includes kooky craft beers from all around Europe, as well as more well-known Belgians like Chouffe, Chimay and Leffe. […]

Eric Kayser

Don’t let the multiple locations fool you into thinking that this is some kind of mediocre chain bakery: The breads at Kayser are excellent. […]

Japanese Knife Company

After 16 years in London, where it was hailed as a “shrine to the knife” (The Guardian) offering “the finest selection of culinary blades we have ever come across” (Financial Times) that is “awesome, amazing and the very best available” (The Wall Street Journal), the Japanese Knife Company established its first Paris shop in May 2014. With backing from a team that includes the owners of Au Passage and Bones, its already become a magnet for chefs to browse and buy knives (so far, we’ve spotted chefs from Verjus, Roseval, CheZaline) and for restaurants to get their kitchen and table knives sharpened (Le Servan and Septime, among others). Soon to come: sushi and butchery workshops, chef demonstrations, and other cutting edge (sorry) event […]

Au Coeur du Marché

This small fromager and affineur can sometimes get hidden by the all the hustle and bustle of market life just outside, but duck in. The quality is high, the service is friendly (and bilingual), and they will happily sous-vide (vacuum seal) your cheese for travel. Notable offerings include a wide selection of foreign cheeses (quite rare in Paris), goat milk yogurts, and a good variety of butters. […]

Café Cartouche

Practical information Address: 4 rue de Bercy, 75012 Nearest transport: Dugommier (6), Cour Saint-Émilion (14) Hours: Closed Sunday; Open Monday-Friday for lunch & dinner and Saturday for dinner Reservations: Walk-ins Welcome Telephone: 01 40 19 09 […]

Le Baron Rouge

Join the rest of the neighborhood here on Sunday afternoons for a post-market glass of wine (direct from the barrel), a plate of cheese or charcuterie or, in winter, a dozen oysters. Bottles to go, too. […]

A la Biche au Bois

Practical information Address: 45 avenue Ledru-Rollin, 75012 Nearest transport:  Gare de Lyon (1, 14, RER A), Quai de la Rapée (5) Hours: Closed Sunday; Open Tuesday-Friday for lunch & dinner and Monday & Saturday for dinner Reservations: […]

Shan Goût

This tiny, highly regarded Chinese restaurant veers from the usual family style format, offering a limited-choice, three-course menu. […]

La Gazzetta

Petter Nilsson’s inspired, eclectic cooking drew rave reviews. Then he left, came back, and now he’s flown the coop again for Sweden. We’ll see?


A limited menu of excellently sourced meat, fish, and produce that is roasted simply on a spit at this chic restaurant run by writer Bruno Verjus. […]

Pink Flamingo

Practical information Address: 67 rue Bichat, 75010 Nearest transport: Jacques Bonsergent (5) Hours: Open Monday-Thursday for dinner only; Open Friday-Sunday for lunch and dinner Reservations: Reservations not accepted Telephone: 01 42 02 31 70 Average price […]


This is the first restaurant for globe trotting chef William Pradeleix who has worked in London under Hélène Darroze, in Bora Bora with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and most recently, headed up the kitchen at Manger. His precise, Asian-inflected cuisine is drawing diners to the Aligre market area. […]