Tag Archives: Basque

L’Entredgeu

This beloved Basque bistro is usually packed with locals.

Practical information

Address: 83 rue Laugier, 75017
Nearest transport: Porte de Champerret (3)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, Tuesday-Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday
Reservations: Book a few days in advance
Telephone: 01 40 54 97 24
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: French, Basque

Reviews of interest

Figaroscope (2011) “De la piperade avec l’œuf mollet, des haricots blancs façon cassoulet avec l’épaule de veau, la tome de brebis qui va bien… L’assiette met bien évidemment le cap au Sud-Ouest…Le tout avec une sincérité désarmante…”

David Lebovitz (2007) “So in spite of the name, and location, L’Entredgeu seems to be thriving and is always packed. The dining room can be a bit cramped, which is part of the charm… a real bargain for food this good, and well-prepared…”

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la cantine fries

La Cantine de la Cigale

Warm, welcoming and well-priced. The new bistro from Christian Etchebest follows the model of his other cantines, La Cantine du Troquet and La Cantine du Troquet Dupleix; this time, in association with the concert venue La Cigale.

Practical information

Address: 124 boulevard de Rochechouart, 75018
Nearest transport: Pigalle (2, 12)
Hours: Closed Sundays; Open lunch and dinner Mondays-Saturdays
Reservations: Reservations not accepted
Telephone: 01 55 79 10 10
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: French, Basque

Reviews of interest

Aaron Ayscough (2014) “The menu seems designed specifically to accommodate those too rushed or thrifty to endure a three-course meal. An ample list of Eric Ospital charcuterie is very kindly priced, and appetizer portions are heapingly-plated. Sometimes this generosity had slightly ludicrous results, as in the fried pig’s ear salad I ordered, which was a garish tangle of fatty cartilage, like a wig made of meat.”

Alexander Lobrano (2013) “The bowl of frites that came with our mains were some of the best I’ve eaten in Paris for a long time–cooked in duck fat so that they were crunchy and golden, and garnished with cracked black pepper and coarse sea salt… I’ve always loved Christian Etchebest’s cooking and his warm, alert style of hospitality.”

Emmanuel Rubin (2013) “Il place ici sa cuisine à la bonne et juste hauteur des proximités de café. En jovialité Sud-Ouest, il y a là des petits plats de faconde,  de proximité et de passage, judicieux à accompagner les éternelles comédies  de… boulevard.”

L’Express (2013) “Les “Etche-best of” de la carte: les oreilles de cochon grillées, la terrine de boudin-en direct d’Hasparren et signées Ospital, le charcutier star-, et puis de maousses sardines grillées à la sauce vierge et une impeccable tarte aux mirabelles de saison.”

John Talbott (2013) “…modern besides-the-theater cafe/cantine with a giant screen to show Etchebest’s beloved Basque ruggers matches.  And even though you cannot read the chalkboard, it had double the offerings of his prior ventures.”

Le Fooding (2o13) “Charcuteries Ospital, œuf mayo, étonnant caviar d’aubergines, tomates et pistou, couteaux à la plancha, grosses sardines grillées sauce vierge, onglet de bœuf au vin rouge, rafraîchissant crémeux au citron, tarte aux mirabelles, pinards ensoleillés (gaillac de Plageoles, irouléguy de Brana…”

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Photo via Bistrot Belhara's Facebook page

Bistrot Belhara

Picture perfect Parisian bistro with Basque-inflected food from Thierry Dufroux, who sharpened his teeth at Alain Ducasse, Bernard Loiseau, Michel Guérard, and Bistro Volnay. The restaurant can be reserved privately for large groups on Sundays and Mondays.

Practical information

Address: 27 rue Duvivier, 75007
Nearest transport: École Militaire (8), La Tour-Maubourg (8)
Hours: Closed Sunday and Monday; Open Tuesday-Saturday
Reservations: Book a week or two in advance
Telephone: 01 45 51 41 77
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 35-49€
Style of cuisine: French, Basque
Website

Reviews of interest

Alexander Lobrano (2013) “Casually elegant, technically perfect, and respectfully traditional with a tweak of irreverence to make it his own. Small wonder then that this restaurant has so impressively established itself as a neighborhood favorite within months of opening, and this while walking the tight-rope of an affluent but reflexively parsimonious clientele who are wary of anything that wanders too wide of the mark of traditional French food.

Thierry Richard (2013) “Le Bistrot Belhara possède tous les attributs du petit caboulot parisien comme on les aime, le décor aux accents familiers (bar, banquette de velours rouge, carreaux de ciment, menu à l’ardoise), le patron en cuisine à la bonne humeur communicative, le service de tabliers noirs à la connivence facile, ses ambiances de province bourgeoise, bien mise, sûre d’elle et sereine, savoureuse.”

Slate (2013) “Toutes ces préparations exactes, mitonnées avec amour, figurent au menu à 35 euros avec quelques suppléments. On est loin du bistrot de quartier, on est en présence d’un singulier passionné des casseroles qui sait réjouir les hôtes et emballer les saveurs comme dans un grand restaurant.”

John Talbott (2013) “It was scores-ville; a wonderful warm “rustic” pate en croute with foie gras and duck and a rich red wine sauce and sweetbreads just like I love them – crispy outside, moist inside with perfectly cooked teeny tiny potatoes.”

François-Régis Gaudry (2013)”Sans aucun doute l’une des révélations 2013! On n’avait pas senti depuis des mois tant de coeur à l’ouvrage, de sincérité et de précision d’exécution dans un zinc de moins de 30 couverts.”

Philippe Toinard (2013) “Une remarquable épaule de lapin confite au romarin…ça n’est en rien comparable au riz au lait, noisettes et marmelade d’abricots qui pourrait postuler, s’il existait, au trophée du meilleur riz au lait.”

Emmanuel Rubin (2013) “Girolles, œuf mollet, lard: d’une rondeur «sur sapide». Coques, palourdes au vin blanc, poulpe et encornets à l’ail: gagnerait à ne pas s’assortir de spaghetti. Caneton croisé frotté au piment d’Espelette: rassurant.”

 

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La Tute via La Tute / Facebook

La Tute

Recently relocated to the 9th, this rustic bistro offers heart-stopping fare from the Pyrenees.

Practical information

Address: 7 rue Rossini, 75009
Nearest transport: Richelieu-Drouot (8, 9)
Hours: Lunch and dinner, every day
Reservations: Last minute booking usually OK
Telephone: 01 40 15 65 65
Website
Average price for lunch: 20-34€
Average price for dinner: 20-34€
Style of cuisine: French – Southwest and Basque
Special attributes: open Sunday, open Monday

Reviews of interest

Emmanuel Rubin – Figaroscope (2012) “…un terroir fort en gueule, gaillard, ventru, solidement campé sur la calorie et prodigue à pousser la rapière. On craignait la caricature, on découvre un vrai caractère.”

John Talbott (2012) “Go?  As my old pal the RFC would say, ‘It’s not urgent.'”

François-Régis Gaudry – L’Express (2012) “Son ardoise regorge de produits rares et d’intitulés ostensiblement rustiques. Ici, point de bistroteries pincées mais du brutal, des uppercuts de terroir : confits de canard, boudins des Pyrénées à la plancha, chorizos de Navarre…Délicieusement gore.”

 

 

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Baeckeoffe in a traditional Soufflenheim dish

Endangered French Regional Cooking

In Paris, it’s possible to do a Tour de France without a bicycle, since one of the most unique layers of the city’s food chain is its many French regional tables. Indeed the cooking of almost every corner of France is available in Paris, although some regions, notably the Auvergne and Alsace, are better represented than others, like the north of France, which has just a single address, Le Graindorge, vaunting such Flemish favorites as waterzooï (chicken and vegetables stewed in cream enriched bouillon) or carbonade, beef cooked in a sauce of beer.

Baeckeoffe in a traditional Soufflenheim dishBaeckeoffe in a Soufflenheim casserole

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